Have any of you guys seen a pyrex type tank window for these? I've asked a few vendors if they make them, and only got back one nasty email back from phiniac so far.
New Genesis type atomizer by DID!
- Thread starter Jim Damianidis
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Oh I'm going to have to try that thick walled approach. Course, next up will be 500 mesh.
Okay, I'll try it, on my next wick... maybe. Thanks for the encouragement and inspiration!
If it's any consolation, I admit that I did drop the tobacco paper routine with my Mini DiD... but only because I couldn't get the wick skinny enough to include the paper as it went in the slot. lol.
I hope he makes one and that you find one! Sweet!!Yeah, I found a few other styles/brands that were in that price range, but I just ended up going for the garish one ahahahhaahha
Yes!!! My friend Urquidez, who's a member here on ECF, is a machinist for a company that makes medical supplies, so I was trying to get him to make something like that! I'd do some digging online to see if I can find a retailer with high quality rig covers for a decent price.
You can totally get away with just rolling the mesh and torching that (no quench, no jack frost torching, no juice burning) and run a totally functioning wick, but I usually stay on the cautious side of things and jack frost, roll, torch, juice burn (omit quench). Though when I first started out way back when I had my Line v1 #016 (that Dspin sold me actually) and my ooSTURMoo G-Tank, I would boil my mesh for 5 min, change the water, boil for 5 min, change water, boil for 5 min, roll wick, torch till red, quench, repeat 5-6 times, and then do 7-8 juice burns....each wick took about 30 minutes to prepare.....but I think we've all evolved since then
eGads on the old rolling days. I thought I over-DID it lol. As I promised WMC above, I'll try to try skipping on my next wick. Thanks for the encouragement! I know it works for others... just ... scarey for me to contemplate for my own.
and now you all know why I fear changing up my routine! The gas stove JF, gas stove rolled/quench, and the seasoning 3x with lighter, has been my dumb Beginner's Luck method ever since I first started.
Maybe I'll compromise for WMC, Rick and Elfstone and quench 1x instead of 3x, on my next wick. (for the Gemini hopefully!).
Will see...
I guess it does take more than 5 minutes to burn it... but it seems like only 5 when compared to how long it takes me to try rolling the proper width roll. I can't count that high...
P.S. Tony!!! Thanks so much for all your time and research into this!! I'm a googler nut and never once thought to research this aspect and I certainly wouldn't have understood the fine print if I did anyway. Kudos!!!
Hi there!
I think I am finished with the site! I hope no problems now!
I have sent an email to all of you with my appologize and so I do now!
Please forgive me but I couldnt do otherwise than this so you have to make a new account!
All the orders are in a database but I will use it!
If any trouble please reply I will stay here for some time!
And I will vape until sleep takes me!
Thank you!
I think I am finished with the site! I hope no problems now!
I have sent an email to all of you with my appologize and so I do now!
Please forgive me but I couldnt do otherwise than this so you have to make a new account!
All the orders are in a database but I will use it!
If any trouble please reply I will stay here for some time!
And I will vape until sleep takes me!
Thank you!
Why was he nasty? I would imagine hugh interest in pyrex for DID
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
Jim,
The new website looks very good, Well done my friend!!
Now go and rest / sleep.
The new website looks very good, Well done my friend!!
Now go and rest / sleep.
I guess I got quite a conversation going last night and then went to bed... Just read up on all this after work.
Anyway, I used my cheapo butane torch and went much easier on the burning. DID some juice dousing/ quenching while it was hot, a thorough JF and a few minimal passes with the torch and the coil is perfectly stable from the get- go. The wick is a much lighter color than the dark black I usually had. I think the wicks I was making before were just borderline crumbly even though I didnt realize it... Im keeping my fingers crossed... Thanks for all the ideas, guys.
Ah, Interesting. Are you saying to do two extra wraps and then when mounted, use one on top and one on bottom to use as a lead? I can see how that would make it more snug. I may try that. I definitely burn my Kanthal and feel it helps. I can tell its less likely to just pop that way.
Ah, ok. Thought you meant you skipped the torching while rolled. I do see how you could if you did enough JF..
No multimeter yet, I'm finally adding that to the list. I dont really like lighting the juice with a regular lighter. I have seen it adds soot so I have been igniting it with the torch when I do a couple quenches (or douses). Thanks.
Got yet another conondrum for everyone thats probably not as boring as my usual issues. The resistance on the coils on one of my DIDs always goes down when I push the whole did to the side on a mod as if there was something making contact in the inner- tube. In other words, if I push hard to the side with my thumb on the side of the DID, the coils glow brighter. Now I noticed this with my older DID that I upgraded with the stainless steel for a while but I just checked it on my provari. Its about .5 ohms lower when I push on it. I recleaned the positive post last night and just cleaned all atty connections on both mods and the DID today and theres no difference. The pole isn't bent, insulators intact, no obvious deformities. I hate to trouble Jim with this. I got the upgrades a few weeks ago with a second DID and sometimes noticed I would have to unscrew or tighten the DID a little to make better contact but just discovered that pushing on it got it to the resistance it should be...
Still pretty content that this ones still going strong and about the Butane Revelation. Thanks Rwechsler. I have some awg 30 on the way. Figure Ill dedicate one DID to the Precise with the 30, and use the other on the Provari with a 3/4, 32awg (If the Precise doesnt give me any issues)...
Anyway, I used my cheapo butane torch and went much easier on the burning. DID some juice dousing/ quenching while it was hot, a thorough JF and a few minimal passes with the torch and the coil is perfectly stable from the get- go. The wick is a much lighter color than the dark black I usually had. I think the wicks I was making before were just borderline crumbly even though I didnt realize it... Im keeping my fingers crossed... Thanks for all the ideas, guys.
Ah, Interesting. Are you saying to do two extra wraps and then when mounted, use one on top and one on bottom to use as a lead? I can see how that would make it more snug. I may try that. I definitely burn my Kanthal and feel it helps. I can tell its less likely to just pop that way.
Ah, ok. Thought you meant you skipped the torching while rolled. I do see how you could if you did enough JF..
No multimeter yet, I'm finally adding that to the list. I dont really like lighting the juice with a regular lighter. I have seen it adds soot so I have been igniting it with the torch when I do a couple quenches (or douses). Thanks.
Got yet another conondrum for everyone thats probably not as boring as my usual issues. The resistance on the coils on one of my DIDs always goes down when I push the whole did to the side on a mod as if there was something making contact in the inner- tube. In other words, if I push hard to the side with my thumb on the side of the DID, the coils glow brighter. Now I noticed this with my older DID that I upgraded with the stainless steel for a while but I just checked it on my provari. Its about .5 ohms lower when I push on it. I recleaned the positive post last night and just cleaned all atty connections on both mods and the DID today and theres no difference. The pole isn't bent, insulators intact, no obvious deformities. I hate to trouble Jim with this. I got the upgrades a few weeks ago with a second DID and sometimes noticed I would have to unscrew or tighten the DID a little to make better contact but just discovered that pushing on it got it to the resistance it should be...
Still pretty content that this ones still going strong and about the Butane Revelation. Thanks Rwechsler. I have some awg 30 on the way. Figure Ill dedicate one DID to the Precise with the 30, and use the other on the Provari with a 3/4, 32awg (If the Precise doesnt give me any issues)...
i dunno, they advertise custom tanks, so I sent them dimensions and got out my micrometer and took the inside/outside diameters and was very meticulous in explaining what i wanted... seemed like a simple thing for them to do after seeing all the custom stuff they do for the phiniacs, and after my nice meticulous email, all I received back was..... "uhhh....NO!" that's it, that's all it said.
That's ridiculous. I really think most vendors would benefit from a vicious and protracted boycott sometimes, but most vapers are too busy saying "mine works fine" to see the bigger picture. And hence the world is what it is.
Sounds like something is touching, is the top cap on when this happens? The DID has a different positive base....could this be rocking on the positive pin on the PV making getting an accurate reading difficult.
Custom in that you can get whatever you want etched on them. They don't make random size tanks and I don't think they ever have. They are considered by many to be among the best carto tanks.
Even for the cobras they are not using their own glass - Siam is providing it. They just do designs for the Cobras. If you have a glass tank you want to put a design on they can probably help you.
RnMreviews has pretty much all figured out. I checked his vid before I got my first DID... 3 major points he's bringing:
1) the mesh has to be oxidized. still having unexplained short? its the mesh. Take it out, re-oxidise.
In my experience this has revealed to be 100% true
2) his way of rolling the coil is not the one usually shown. The way he does it minimizes the way from ground to wick and from wick to post.
This totally eliminates hot spots.
3) the wick doesn't have to be a 1 meter long. he's rolling on a 3,5cm width... works.
I'm changing coils everyday in secs.
regarding the provari:
3/4 on 32g kenthal, 4/5 on 30g , 5/6 on 28g... always gets me around 1.2 and good to go. (I rarely use the 32 anymore)
I start at 3.5v and make my way up to 4v as the resistance gets settled.
I wash/dry the wick every 2 days.
This works... These are long vids. they may spare ppl a lot of time making it "work" and do so effortlessly.
The question I've been asking myself though is does anyone know how long its safe to use the same wick?
Should we worry rust? what would be the sign of corrosion?
My liquid at the end of the day is pretty much tasteless and brownish (it starts really clear) . I had that issue when using carto/tanks.
I figured it was the heating reaction of the liquid because it would happen with a new carto everyday. (i'm using a 50%pg400 / 50% VG)
But here, considering the effects of serious oxidizing... wouldn't it be ironic if we ended up vaping rust?
1) the mesh has to be oxidized. still having unexplained short? its the mesh. Take it out, re-oxidise.
In my experience this has revealed to be 100% true
2) his way of rolling the coil is not the one usually shown. The way he does it minimizes the way from ground to wick and from wick to post.
This totally eliminates hot spots.
3) the wick doesn't have to be a 1 meter long. he's rolling on a 3,5cm width... works.
I'm changing coils everyday in secs.
regarding the provari:
3/4 on 32g kenthal, 4/5 on 30g , 5/6 on 28g... always gets me around 1.2 and good to go. (I rarely use the 32 anymore)
I start at 3.5v and make my way up to 4v as the resistance gets settled.
I wash/dry the wick every 2 days.
This works... These are long vids. they may spare ppl a lot of time making it "work" and do so effortlessly.
The question I've been asking myself though is does anyone know how long its safe to use the same wick?
Should we worry rust? what would be the sign of corrosion?
My liquid at the end of the day is pretty much tasteless and brownish (it starts really clear) . I had that issue when using carto/tanks.
I figured it was the heating reaction of the liquid because it would happen with a new carto everyday. (i'm using a 50%pg400 / 50% VG)
But here, considering the effects of serious oxidizing... wouldn't it be ironic if we ended up vaping rust?
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@DSmooch: wicks should be changed every 6 months whether they need it or not... I don't usually last that long because of the need to tinker. Juice may/may not darken, doesn't matter to the juice but flavor loss can be fixed with a dry burn/sink rinse (or the tried and true twist out the wick, dry burn coil to clean, re-burn wick/rinse to clean, twist back in wick).
darkening of juice is from cooked stuff going back down the wick (e.g. juice wicks up, gets cooked, gravity pulls it back down). It bothers some folks, I'm a slacker - I vape it anyway...
P.S. Luv the avatar...
darkening of juice is from cooked stuff going back down the wick (e.g. juice wicks up, gets cooked, gravity pulls it back down). It bothers some folks, I'm a slacker - I vape it anyway...
P.S. Luv the avatar...
I'm glad you found them helpful! I think you boiled it down pretty well! If you have a short or the resistance bounces around, reoxidize your wick!
I was looking for glass/fused quartz and it would be tough to get a tank as thin as the the Kir Fanis (very fragile for glass/quartz) or it would have to be wider than the tank top/bottom (I like the smooth look). Could be done by buying pyrex tubing from some of the custom tube folks, cutting to length and then annealing/softening the edges.
I would be fine with the glass being a little wider than the did itself lol. I was going to order the clear plastic sleeve, but i vape cinnabomb, and it will probably crack it. And plastic scratches pretty easily. My ONLY gripe about the did, is that I can't see when I need a refill, or see when the liquid starts getting full of gunk...etc.
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When you get familiar enough with your wick/coil setup, you'll be able to tell exactly how much or little juice is left in your tank based on how it's wicking. And on the other hand, you can fill up your DID without needing a rig, so it's pretty easy to fill on the fly if you run dry.
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