New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[Uma]

Do you only do the JF, Uma, and skip torching the rolled wick itself?

Dear God no. Not yet anyway. I'm still too chicken to skip any steps. Maybe next year I'll venture into skipping ...
But others do just fine with skipping and have zero problems with it. Even Scott (Igetcha69) now skips the quenching steps and just does the JF and the Seasoning steps if I remember right. (maybe only to save video time? maybe due to preference?).
Good luck to you. Do you have a multi-meter? Check your JF mesh all over for hot spots, and if none, your good to roll...


or go to roll/torch/quench like me lol.

 

[WNCmotard]

I'm a total noob on genesis stuff, I've never quenched any of the three wicks I've made, and never had any issues from them at all. Skip it, you'll be fine Uma, you've been at this a lot longer than I have.

 

[rwechsler]

I hate to be the bearer of bargain news..... here are your syringes at a 3rd of the price Popper Micro Mate Glass Syringes from Cole-Parmer

Yeah, I found a few other styles/brands that were in that price range, but I just ended up going for the garish one ahahahhaahha

I would so like a cover for the needle part of the syringe and a sheath for the whole shabang. Maybe Jim would be interested in making us something when he finds time next year... oops, baby on the way... okay, in 18 years when she/he's off to college.

Yes!!! My friend Urquidez, who's a member here on ECF, is a machinist for a company that makes medical supplies, so I was trying to get him to make something like that! I'd do some digging online to see if I can find a retailer with high quality rig covers for a decent price.

Do you only do the JF, Uma, and skip torching the rolled wick itself?

Dear God no. Not yet anyway. I'm still too chicken to skip any steps. Maybe next year I'll venture into skipping ...
But others do just fine with skipping and have zero problems with it. Even Scott (Igetcha69) now skips the quenching steps and just does the JF and the Seasoning steps if I remember right. (maybe only to save video time? maybe due to preference?).
Good luck to you. Do you have a multi-meter? Check your JF mesh all over for hot spots, and if none, your good to roll...
or go to roll/torch/quench like me lol.

You can totally get away with just rolling the mesh and torching that (no quench, no jack frost torching, no juice burning) and run a totally functioning wick, but I usually stay on the cautious side of things and jack frost, roll, torch, juice burn (omit quench). Though when I first started out way back when I had my Line v1 #016 (that Dspin sold me actually) and my ooSTURMoo G-Tank, I would boil my mesh for 5 min, change the water, boil for 5 min, change water, boil for 5 min, roll wick, torch till red, quench, repeat 5-6 times, and then do 7-8 juice burns....each wick took about 30 minutes to prepare.....but I think we've all evolved since then

I'm a total noob on genesis stuff, I've never quenched any of the three wicks I've made, and never had any issues from them at all. Skip it, you'll be fine Uma, you've been at this a lot longer than I have.

 

[WNCmotard]

I don't know what the jack frost method is, but I torch it when flat, again when rolled, then do a juice burn as follows

1st burn I let it burn all the way out
2nd and 3rd I light it, then blow it out and repeat until it won't light anymore. Then I take a lighter, and hold it just far enough away that the mesh won't glow orange, but it leaves a nice carbon buildup on the wick. So far, this has worked every single time for me, YMMV.

 

[denali_41]

for my wicks,i just do one burn with the mesh flat ,,then roll it and do the paper trick,,burn off the paper and start vaping

quick, simple and painless

 

[Tonytiger1]

Dids are windproof.

Tony

 

[dspin]

Ay yi yi, looks like you broke into my house and stole my stuff. hahaha - awesome pics RW, just magnificent. Well done

Well, as promised, here are some photos of my DIDs on a few different mods! More photos to come in the near future!








And lastly, my Sturm Mod v1 with my personalized Mini DID and a polished Caravela drip tip

 

[rwechsler]

Ahahaahahah, thank you D! Glad you like the pics

Ay yi yi, looks like you broke into my house and stole my stuff. hahaha - awesome pics RW, just magnificent. Well done

 

[rolbyroland]

rwechsler can you tell me where you live and when nobody's home? kidding!

 

[Tonytiger1]

Some web research


The surface discoloration on stainless steel after grinding or welding is surface oxidation. At elevated temperature, the metal comprising the stainless steel will combine with oxygen to form an oxide layer on the metal surface. The color of the "stain" is a function of the layer thickness. Oxidation of stainless steel indicates that the metal temperature at the oxidized surface was in excess of 1000F.

This surface oxide must be removed for the surface to be passivated and reach optimum corrosion resistance. An oxide layer that you can see by color change is not a protective oxide layer that is obtained by chemical passivation.

In addition, if you are causing a brown stain by grinding, you may be doing more damage to the material than forming a little surface oxide. Heating the stainless steel to temperatures in excess 800F can cause metallurgical changes and reduce corrosion resistance in a manner that is not corrected by surface cleaning or chemical passivation.



Tony

 

[Tonytiger1]

Ok this is what I've learned. Instead of sleeping. Oxidizing takes time. By heating the wick we allow o2 to combine with the metal quicker. Or in an accelerated manner. So it not just about getting the wick hot. You need to keep it at temp for a while. This give the O2 time to combine and makes the layer thicker. So keep it a a red not bright red for some time. I say at least a minute let it cool and look at it. Your wanting a brown color

http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=140


Tony

 

[Tonytiger1]

I need a torch. BBQ takes to long and my hand gets hot. It not about the equipment. It's what results you are looking for. I have done it with just a lighter.
Just take your time. Get the color even a little darker then mine and your good to go.
Tony

 

[studiovap]

Ok this is what I've learned. Instead of sleeping. Oxidizing takes time. By heating the wick we allow o2 to combine with the metal quicker. Or in an accelerated manner. So it not just about getting the wick hot. You need to keep it at temp for a while. This give the O2 time to combine and makes the layer thicker. So keep it a a red not bright red for some time. I say at least a minute let it cool and look at it. Your wanting a brown color

Article: Heat tint (temper) colours on stainless steel surfaces heated in air


Tony

This "sounds like" some definitive ... kicking oxidization advice Tony.After reading so may conflicting methods it really will be wicking amazing if this proves to be "THE" WAY.
Thanks for your research & here's hoping

 

[Hoey]

Hi all,
What is the size of the o-rings for standard DID? My did came without o-rings!
Thanks,
Hoey

 

[Tonytiger1]

This "sounds like" some definitive ... kicking oxidization advice Tony.After reading so may conflicting methods it really will be wicking amazing if this proves to be "THE" WAY.
Thanks for your research & here's hoping

I just see so many complaints. This trial be error stuff. To confusing. If some had a real hot oven we could roll 1000 of these suckers. Bake them and sell them. Or just help a desperate vape buddy.

Also ive been researching the correct temp for e juice soon we will get to set temp not watts . Again we are doing trial and error. We are in the stone age of this stuff.


Tony

 

[IraSurefire]

Jim, I hope you are still sleeping.

In case you aren't, here's some more website grief for ya.

While trying to give you my money I am receiving this message, "There is 1 error
There are no carriers that deliver to the address you selected."

Is this a page error or something I am doing wrong?

 

[dspin]

Hes having website trouble Ira, I cant even log in - saying same thing to me. He is working on it though.

 

[9ball_AJ]

Jim, I hope you are still sleeping.

In case you aren't, here's some more website grief for ya.

While trying to give you my money I am receiving this message, "There is 1 error
There are no carriers that deliver to the address you selected."

Is this a page error or something I am doing wrong?

Same issue for me, seems to be an issue with the site. I am sure Jim will get everything handled soon.

 

[fuzzione]

It would seem in my case that tony's new oxidization mechanics info is correct. Last night I ran out of propane in my torch as I just started Jack Frosting. Only got 25% of the wick done. I did the rest on my gas stove which produced a medium orange color on my mesh...not brighter than that. I completed 'frosting' my wick, rolled, gas stove it again, quenched once, burned again then flamed the wick in juice 3 times. It has produced the best, short-free, hot spot-free wick that I've done to date. Who would have thought!

The gas stove appears to burn the mesh at a lower temperature and you need to hold it on the flame longer. Possibly this gives it more time to oxidize properly as per Tony's recent info. The one quench method provided me with a wick that was not too stiff/not too pliable. It has been the 1st wick I have constructed requiring absolutely no fiddling. Nothing. Nada. Even on my short-sensitive vmax.

Once the coil was wrapped I installed and it vaped perfectly from the get go at the correct resistance. I used a 4/3 wrap 33awg in this case producing 2.3ohm.

Also, that '500 mesh' thread is full of interesting and useful info. My present wick, as recommended in that thread, is a thick-walled, pinhole center wick (used about 65mm length) and it is wicking beautifully. I'll not make another thin-walled large center hole wick again.

It just keeps getting better and easier the more you do it...don't give up!

 

[Tonytiger1]

It would seem in my case that tony's new oxidization mechanics info is correct. Last night I ran out of propane in my torch as I just started Jack Frosting. Only got 25% of the wick done. I did the rest on my gas stove which produced a medium orange color on my mesh...not brighter than that. I completed 'frosting' my wick, rolled, gas stove it again, quenched once, burned again then flamed the wick in juice 3 times. It has produced the best, short-free, hot spot-free wick that I've done to date. Who would have thought!

The gas stove appears to burn the mesh at a lower temperature and you need to hold it on the flame longer. Possibly this gives it more time to oxidize properly as per Tony's recent info. The one quench method provided me with a wick that was not too stiff/not too pliable. It has been the 1st wick I have constructed requiring absolutely no fiddling. Nothing. Nada. Even on my short-sensitive vmax.

Once the coil was wrapped I installed and it vaped perfectly from the get go at the correct resistance. I used a 4/3 wrap 33awg in this case producing 2.3ohm.

Also, that '500 mesh' thread is full of interesting and useful info. My present wick, as recommended in that thread, is a thick-walled, pinhole center wick (used about 65mm length) and it is wicking beautifully. I'll not make another thin-walled large center hole wick again.

It just keeps getting better and easier the more you do it...don't give up!

Thanks. But its science. Not me


Tony