New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[killbride]

How much juice have you vaped since you got the coil your running now firing properly?
The DO take some time to break in sometimes.
Also, try firing it with the top cap off at the same angle you'd normally vape at. You should see a nice stream of vapor.
If you see juice bubbling, it's flooding a bit. If you see any coils start to glow, it's a bit dry.
Overall though, it sounds like it just may need a little more break-in.

How do you combat the bubbling on the Wick? That has been present in all my coils. Is it a bad thing necessarily? I do find myself wiping a few drops of juice from the air hole every once in a while

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Atlantisboy]

I think it only bubbles when there is no air passing over the coil, bubbling means plenty of juice is getting to the coil so its wicking well. Mine bubbles when I look at it without the cap on but tastes great when I vape it

 

[studiovap]

View attachment 142870 Just to let the people know, that I drilled a .042 through the fill cap. The reason was for spillage and over wicking. This is perfect for me.

I've been thinking about doing that for ages, thanks for pioneering Jimi,

 

[Vapor2112]

You have a few options...
-tilt the device less, ie hold at say 5 o'clock position instead of 3
-if the screw isn't in the full hole, put it in there..
-pinch the very top of your wick closed.

Try those each in order... You should see very little boiling (some is normal), good vapor, but no coils starting to glow..

How do you combat the bubbling on the Wick? That has been present in all my coils. Is it a bad thing necessarily? I do find myself wiping a few drops of juice from the air hole every once in a while

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

I think it only bubbles when there is no air passing over the coil, bubbling means plenty of juice is getting to the coil so its wicking well. Mine bubbles when I look at it without the cap on but tastes great when I vape it

 

[chieftechnicalwizard]

And the standard or short DID fit perfectly on the flat top 18350 / 18650...

I hope you're right I ordered a flat top in September for my DID standard, satin to match. I really want it to arrive. The wait is a bit longer than 2-3 weeks at the moment. These pictures make it so hard, I have two devices I'm waiting on at the moment.
My DID has become my all day vape for days (Pen is sooo jealous), it is a bit awkward on my DNA12 Penguin rig... I donated my telescope last week-end. So I hope it gets here soooon!!

 

[Uma]

Are your wicks solid or a hole for gravitational flow?

Mine is really tight, but have enough space for a straightened out paper clip to be inserted for retorching or whatever needs doin.

 

[Uma]

Turnforward, you're sooooo close!!!
You mentioned tar and feathering your poor wick many times, and I have a hunch that it might be too gunked up, which would explain the flavor loss. It probably is sooty. If this is the case, take out the wick (the wick should be sort of easy to remove and reinsert. It should be snug, but not tight and not loose). then swipe the soot off with a paper towel, just once and lightly and quickly. You only want to remove the top layer of soot, yet leave the rest of the juice inside the innards of the wick. (too long on the paper towel will wisk all the good stuff out, so swipe it swift and gentle). Check your coils for hot spots. Reinsert and test your wick and coil for hot spots, being careful to not burn or soot the wick. (as soon as it glows, let off the button, then hit, release, hit, release, called pulsate the hot glow). Once satisfied there's no hot spots, wet your wick and test again, then wet once more and vape!

Kid is campaigning me to play MineCraft, hope this post makes sense. My attention is scattered.

You're a trooper, you'll get it!!!

 

[chieftechnicalwizard]

(reduce)

This could get me by the waiting period blues, except the center post doesn't reach the battery without an extension and I'm back to the tin box predicament
I saw some talk of using the mini o ring as a spacer. Will that go at the top under the nuts or at the bottom above the center pin end plate?

Thank you,
Jan G.

 

[aziffel]

(reduce)

This could get me by the waiting period blues, except the center post doesn't reach the battery without an extension and I'm back to the tin box predicament
I saw some talk of using the mini o ring as a spacer. Will that go at the top under the nuts or at the bottom above the center pin end plate?

Thank you,
Jan G.

At the bottom above the center pin end plate,
It don't take much,I cut a tiny piece of silicon fuel line for a R/C car and used it instead of a o-ring,its smaller diameter than a o-ring,fits better

 

[turnforward]

How much juice have you vaped since you got the coil your running now firing properly?
The DO take some time to break in sometimes.
Also, try firing it with the top cap off at the same angle you'd normally vape at. You should see a nice stream of vapor.
If you see juice bubbling, it's flooding a bit. If you see any coils start to glow, it's a bit dry.
Overall though, it sounds like it just may need a little more break-in.

Thanks 2112,

I ran at least three tanks of juice.
Also I tested it dry at first and the coils were glowing evenly. With it juiced up, and the top off, holding the button down while lightly blowing on it, I only saw some of the coils start to glow after about 12 seconds.

 

[turnforward]

i have recently been using a fat wick 110mm of 500mesh and 28 awg kanthal A1 4/3 wrap comes out 0.8 - 1.0 ohm , the vapor and flavor is so intense my lungs are full on a 2 second draw No comparison to a boge carto and I really mean NO comparison. Give the 28 awg a try , its very forgiving and rarley get a hot spot using it. Good luck.

I think I have played with every conceivable mesh types and rolling methods.
By far the best wicking comes from the thick wick with no center hole. 400 or 500 mesh works well.
Over oxidizing the mesh causes more problems with short and general wick falling apart after a short time. Below 325 as in 270 or even 200 mesh works great with thin wall but is very hard to oxidize.kanthal wire in bigger gauge is easier to work with. 30 awg is my favorite wire, wraps easily and is very tolerant of manipulation each wrap is about .20 ohm, 28 awg is also good but needs quite a lot of wraps or it will be super low ohms. I almost feel like the 28 awg is a coil for life, it is super tough.I wrap my coils on the wick and then torch the coil. This hardens the coil and makes it behave when I put in the DID.
The fun of the genesis systems is the fun with experimenting.

Thanks guys for responding.

This setup I have and have been talking about, it a wick made from a 4cmx5cm piece, not a skinny wick, wide enough to just fit in the hole. with four wraps of the wire that came with it. It reads a steady 2.2oms. It just vapes average. Some of the coils I can see a slight gap between the wick

I have only used what I got. In my order I got a small spindle with a lot of 32 gauge (I believe) wire that came with it. I got a, more than usual, amount of mesh from what I have read. I got 4 pieces that were larger then 4cmx10cm. It was because (from the looks of it) it was the end of the spool because some of it was wrinkled on the edge and they were odd shaped, but there was more usable in it than was promised in the write-up.

What can I do with what I have? The longest piece of mesh I have now is 14cm long. And the only Kanthal I have is the 32G.

My last wick was originally burned five times with 3 juice burns, and a few extra juice burns from burning off the juice when I took out the wick from the tank to try again. It doesn't feel brittle or anything.

 

[studiovap]

Thanks guys for responding.

This setup I have and have been talking about, it a wick made from a 4cmx5cm piece, not a skinny wick, wide enough to just fit in the hole. with four wraps of the wire that came with it. It reads a steady 2.2oms. It just vapes average. Some of the coils I can see a slight gap between the wick.


.
I have only used what I got. In my order I got a small spindle with a lot of 32 gauge (I believe) wire that came with it. I got a, more than usual, amount of mesh from what I have read. I got 4 pieces that were larger then 4cmx10cm. It was because (from the looks of it) it was the end of the spool because some of it was wrinkled on the edge and they were odd shaped, but there was more usable in it than was promised in the write-up.
What can I do with what I have? The longest piece of mesh I have now is 14cm long. And the only Kanthal I have is the 32G.

My last wick was originally burned five times with 3 juice burns, and a few extra juice burns from burning off the juice when I took out the wick from the tank to try again. It doesn't feel brittle or anything.

Hi turnforward, keep at it,
You should not be able to see ANY AIR. These parts of the coil will heat up more than the rest and burn the juice that hits them, THIS WILL MUTE YOUR FLAVOR. You need them "snug" on the wick, snug as in cuddling, not throttling, but there is contact

37.5mmx110mm rolled tight works best for me. 37.5mm because cutting after the rolling and torching exposes oxidized mesh and can misshape your beautifully rolled wick. I make my coil (28awg nichrome) on a ss rod from an old DVD player, I believe its about 2.9mm diameter, I do 8-9 wraps (1.2-1.5Ohms) then torch the coil to orange while on the rod holding the tails of the coil, and keeping it in place with needle nose pliers, then I quench in boiled water , i repeat this 3 times.
I then slide the rod with the coil into the 3.5mm wick hole and attach top then bottom tails, pull the bottom tail tight to pull all wraps tight round the ss rod.Then I pull the top of the coil a mm or so from the top nut, and push a tiny "bluntish" flat blade jeweler's screwdriver onto the wire between the top nut and the coil to give better contact with the coil on the wick as it goes to the top nut.
(lubricating the ss rod before tightening the wraps aid removal or said rod.)
I then remove rod and keep rolling my wick until it is a nice sliding twist fit, only then do I slide/twist it down the last 12mm.
Then I juice wick and check fro hot spots/shorts, if all is good i fill and vape.
sometimes I will dry burn and move any problem coils with a wooden tooth pick while they're hot (this way they stay where you put them), and sometimes after a while I will snug up the coil from the bottom nut if i feel there is any AIR between the coil and wick.

You can twist two lengths of 32g Kanthal by folding a 2meter length in half and inserting the bend in a drill chuck and the other loose ends into a vice or clamp, then short slow bursts on the drill will get you twists about 1mm or so apart. This twisted wire will allow you to make a coil with double the wraps and get the same resistance, or same number of wraps you are currently using with half the resistance (ohms).
Some say a twisted coil is less prone to shorts and more stable.





I oxidize slow and cool, relatively speaking, I hold my mesh far enough from the flame to get it RED not BRIGHT ORANGE. This takes up to 10mins, but never weakens the mesh through over-torching.
I quickly run the torch over the whole sheet before rolling (8sec each side), then do the long slow 10mins on the rolled wick. Quenching? Hmmm.. the more rigid the wick the less "cuddly" it becomes if you get my drift, snug coil may benefit from cuddly wick. I'm still experimenting with quenching more, less, none at all.
Juice burn 2-3 times, still experimenting with duration, blowing out ,letting burn out.
One success does not always lead to another, and genesis building is NOT a science it is an ART.

 

[killbride]

Just tried your twisted coil method... Definitely something I want to explore more. Put together a 1.3 ohm coil in all of 5 minutes, simple and ingenious. Will definitely hold me over until my 28 ga and 500 mesh come in! Finally got the warm vapor I've been searching for!

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Tonytiger1]

View attachment 142870 Just to let the people know, that I drilled a .042 through the fill cap. The reason was for spillage and over wicking. This is perfect for me.

I left my fill screw in a plane so I just fill 1/2 tank. No leaks. Wicks fine. Sucks getting old.


Tony

 

[MisterMike]

I assume that people twisting their wires apply a good dose of heat afterwards to make them pliable again, yesno? Seems like if you wrapped a coil with a work-hardened twisted wire, the springback would be almost unmanageable otherwise.

 

[killbride]

I didn't have to heat mine... And boy do I feel the power! 1.3 ohms!

The power!!
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[studiovap]

I assume that people twisting their wires apply a good dose of heat afterwards to make them pliable again, yesno? Seems like if you wrapped a coil with a work-hardened twisted wire, the springback would be almost unmanageable otherwise.

Just what I do to every piece if wire before coiling. Run alighted along it to an orange glow once

 

[vapspaz]

Looks like Killbride is a happy camper! Wooot! Congrat's!!!

I've got my #500 mesh and just ordered a couple hundred feet of Kanthal A1 28Awg & 30Awg. All I need now is my Mini DID. waiting sucks

 

[Dozent]

hi!
can i make from my did short did???

 

[IraSurefire]

yes! you just have to buy the shorty tank