New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

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Tonytiger1

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here's the spec on the on
Kanthal D Ribbon resistance heating flat wire 0.6*0.1mm / 0.024*0.004"

select your lenght: 5 Meter / 10 Meter

- this Kanthal D is the best heating wire for rebuildable atomizer
- it will be shipped on its own spool with 55mm / 2.17" diameter

Product information:
Manufacturer: Kanthal Sweden
max continuous operating temperature: 1300°C ..... 2372°F
resistance at 20°C: 29.3 Ohm/m ..... 8.93 Ohm/ft
select length: 5 Meter / 10 Meter ..... 16.4 feet / 33 feet
width and thickness: 0.6*0.1mm / 0.024*0.004"
alloying elements: Cr 22%, Al 4.8%, Fe remains

I wonder why the thinner one has higher resistance (or am I missing something)?

Small gauge higher resistance.


Tony
 

Uma

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LOL, I actually ordered an inline volt meter just so I can compare under load voltage drops. "Curious minds" want to know...

I excitedly brought mine out to play, and it refused to work anymore on any of my mods. :( But it was fun the 10 times I did use it a year ago lol.
 

Tonytiger1

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LOL, I actually ordered an inline volt meter just so I can compare under load voltage drops. "Curious minds" want to know...

I'm no electronic expert. But I do have some experience. There are many. Challenges
I think when using the poldiac the real resistance point is now the ss in the atomizer and tube and spring. I hate springs I plan on going back to brass positive post But then the negative is ss. I think no way around that unless jim makes a base from a more conductive material. I hope I will be able to buy brass top and bottom cap. With brass tube. Keep the ss pants.
The under load. Test. Try this. Battery touching positive post on atomizer use 12 gauge wire to negitive. Read voltage drop. This takes mod out of equation. Then with same battery install it in the poldiac. Take a reading.

If you look at rw video he just did on a tube mod. He removed the spring in it and improved it. That really showed what the spring did. But still not sure what the mod does.

Hey Rick can you do what I just said.


Tony
 

Cloud Wizard

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I excitedly brought mine out to play, and it refused to work anymore on any of my mods. :( But it was fun the 10 times I did use it a year ago lol.

That's a bummer, I guess I only need it to work twice to see what I want. ;)
At least they're cheap - ~$15 from RTD
 

Cloud Wizard

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I've been wrapping a 5/4 with 28awg and I always end up with 1.1Ω. I'm hoping that with the ribbon's increased surface area that a 4/3 of the 0.24 will provide more contact with the wick and still give me about a 1.0Ω coil. We'll see.

It's supposed to be more efficient because of the increased surface area. I've been using 2/3 of 28awg on my bigger DIDs and 2/3 30awg
on my smaller ones. Sounds lazy, but I quit checking resistance since I got my Poldiac. I just roll, wrap and install with those configs and then vape. If something tastes really burnt I juice it and vape some more. They seem to fix themselves and by the second half of a tank are banging!
 

Sgresham

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I clicked on that link and it took me to eBay. Unless I DID something worng here's the details I got by deviding ohms/ft by 12 in.

Kanthal D Ribbon resistance heating flat wire 0.8*0.1mm / 0.031*0.004"

select your lenght: 5 Meter / 10 Meter

- this Kanthal D is the best heating wire for rebuildable atomizer
- it will be shipped on its own spool with 55mm / 2.17" diameter

Product information:
Manufacturer: Kanthal Sweden
max continuous operating temperature: 1300°C ..... 2372°F
resistance at 20°C: 18.26 Ohm/m ..... 5.57 Ohm/ft
select length: 5 Meter / 10 Meter ..... 16.4 feet / 33 feet
width and thickness: 0.8*0.1mm / 0.031*0.004"
alloying elements: Cr 22%, Al 4.8%, Fe remains

Now that I look at it your absolutely CORRECT! I looked at the 16.4 ft from the length... That wire comes in at 0.464Ω/in which almost exactly like 28awg (0.439Ω/in)

Sounds like this should work absolutely perfectly then. I usually vape at about 5/4 28. I'll try this at about the same.
 

Cloud Wizard

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I'm no electronic expert. But I do have some experience. There are many. Challenges
I think when using the poldiac the real resistance point is now the ss in the atomizer and tube and spring. I hate springs I plan on going back to brass positive post But then the negative is ss. I think no way around that unless jim makes a base from a more conductive material. I hope I will be able to buy brass top and bottom cap. With brass tube. Keep the ss pants.
The under load. Test. Try this. Battery touching positive post on atomizer use 12 gauge wire to negitive. Read voltage drop. This takes mod out of equation. Then with same battery install it in the poldiac. Take a reading.

If you look at rw video he just did on a tube mod. He removed the spring in it and improved it. That really showed what the spring did. But still not sure what the mod does.

Hey Rick can you do what I just said.


Tony

That makes sense. I metered the Poldiac by itself and there was no drop at the posts. But then again I'm running double bottom silver coated springs so it's pretty solid.
 

Cloud Wizard

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Sounds like this should work absolutely perfectly then. I usually vape at about 5/4 28. I'll try this at about the same.

I agree. Actually has me wondering of the higher resistance stuff I have coming will let me get enough wraps. By measurements I should still be able to use a 2/3 or 3/4 to be about where I'm running now (~0.8ohm).
 

Tonytiger1

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Ok just a quick test. Second photo hard to take I don't have clips on my meter. Need 5 hands.
yre3ybyt.jpg

dumy6aty.jpg


My volt drop no load. Went from 3.875 to 3.835 poldiac only.
Went to 3.83 with Gemini no load. Went to 3.37 under load. So I lost about .46 volts under load. I believe that is all due to battery unable to hold voltage under the load

Asking a lot that's a .7 ohm coil.

PSusing 4 month old batteries and radio shack meter no clips operated by not to bright guy .

Results pretty bad ... unit
Tony
 

Pete54

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Tried it with my crappy mm that only shows voltage to two decimal places. Battery alone read 4.03. With Poldiac it read 4.03 and 4.02, fluctuating between both numbers so I assume about 4.025. This is with ss post. I didn't measure under load because, as Tony said, it's irrelevant due to the drop caused by the battery sag. Can anyone really feel a difference of 0.005 volt?
 

Tonytiger1

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Tried it with my crappy mm that only shows voltage to two decimal places. Battery alone read 4.03. With Poldiac it read 4.03 and 4.02, fluctuating between both numbers so I assume about 4.025. This is with ss post. I didn't measure under load because, as Tony said, it's irrelevant due to the drop caused by the battery sag. Can anyone really feel a difference of 0.005 volt?

Since we are talking about lets be beat a dead horse . The voltage drop is do to load mostly and the battery ability to hold voltage under load. But to be fair to the test. Under load the totally voltage drop can vary under high currents different resistance

Give and example to Better explain.

Let's say you have a small gauge wire. If you only run very low amps thru it. It would appear to be very good little voltage drop.
But take the same wire and try to push high current thru it and it will get hot and resistance will increase and voltage drop will increase.


On thing I do is step back and look at the big picture. In your house wiring we run 110 volts up to 20 amps. 12 gauge That's 2200 watts or so. Copper wire if you look at the size of that wire. Just the copper part that size should have no problem moving 16 watts.
Break down the poldiac and did in your mind.
Did post thicker
Did base thicker
Tube thicker
Top and bottom contacts thicker
Small switch pin about the same
Spring. Smaller. Weak spot. But Jim intention was for protection.

just my 2 cents.

Tony
 
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