New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[Jacoji]

Apologies for breaking into the audiophile discussion.

I have my DID all set up on its virgin run. I even converted it to short with a glass tank (and didn't break anything). Ribbon kanthal. 1.2ohms. Bar none the best vape experience to date. On my Precise+ now because it is a stunning combination (see the "foto" thread).

Here's my issue with ribbon: I use a silica wick inside my SS. I found that when I use the Petar K method the little tail of silica (to keep the SS off the bottom of the tank) gets caught on the coil and messes it up when I try to insert the wick into my connected coil, so I've been wrapping on the wick and then inserting and connecting. The problem comes about when I tighten the positive connection. The nut will catch the kanthal and start tightening up at the top and I end up with the cursed hot top coil.

How do I avoid this?

This current coil took way to long (and too many tries) to get right.

 

[NatGasMan]

Apologies for breaking into the audiophile discussion.

I have my DID all set up on its virgin run. I even converted it to short with a glass tank (and didn't break anything). Ribbon kanthal. 1.2ohms. Bar none the best vape experience to date. On my Precise+ now because it is a stunning combination (see the "foto" thread).

Here's my issue with ribbon: I use a silica wick inside my SS. I found that when I use the Petar K method the little tail of silica (to keep the SS off the bottom of the tank) gets caught on the coil and messes it up when I try to insert the wick into my connected coil, so I've been wrapping on the wick and then inserting and connecting. The problem comes about when I tighten the positive connection. The nut will catch the kanthal and start tightening up at the top and I end up with the cursed hot top coil.

How do I avoid this?

This current coil took way to long (and too many tries) to get right.

Please don't take this the wrong way. But, you need to ditch the silica wick. IMHO, you are inhaling tiny bits of silica in your lungs with that setup. Not sure if that is bad or not, but I would rather not take that chance. Again just my opinion, but if you get a good wick and coil setup you should not need the silica. Not sure if you have tried a low ohm coil. But if you do, you will see that there is no need for the silica. Again, this is just my opinion. So take it for what is worth.

 

[NatGasMan]

And by the way did I mention that this is just my perception. LOL!

 

[Jacoji]

No offense taken. I was having wicking issues when I first started up on RBAs (ZAP) and somebody there recommended the "burrito" wick. It has worked better for me, but I have not tried a semi-solid SS #500 wick as another option. I've been paying attention to the "dangers of silica" threads but hadn't yet decided it was a risk I wanted to avoid because the wicking was good.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Devonmoonshire]

Hey Nate, that's what I'm waiting for too. Jim said it'll be there soon (couple days, couple weeks? - don't know)

Awesome Brother! Thank you very much, I was hoping someone would know as I know for a fact Jim is very busy and may not be able to answer it.

I can hardly wait because now that my car is paid off I can finally afford to grab what I have wanted for a long time it is amazing how much of a difference 840 bucks a month can make on the stress levels in life

Sincerely;
Nate

 

[CASEACE79]

No offense taken. I was having wicking issues when I first started up on RBAs (ZAP) and somebody there recommended the "burrito" wick. It has worked better for me, but I have not tried a semi-solid SS #500 wick as another option. I've been paying attention to the "dangers of silica" threads but hadn't yet decided it was a risk I wanted to avoid because the wicking was good.

Thanks for the feedback.

Don't know about the ribbon wire but wicking isn't an issue at all for me. Make a wick that is almost exactly the size of the wick hole and make it thin and hollow. When I say thin I mean that when you roll it, it should wrap around 2-3 times. When you roll it, when the bottom edge meets the wick that's one roll.

Just made one tonight and you can almost see through the thing. Wrapped a new coil and without it being broken in I don't have to tip past 4 o'clock position.

BTW I torch the mesh before rolling. Hope this helps.

 

[NatGasMan]

No offense taken. I was having wicking issues when I first started up on RBAs (ZAP) and somebody there recommended the "burrito" wick. It has worked better for me, but I have not tried a semi-solid SS #500 wick as another option. I've been paying attention to the "dangers of silica" threads but hadn't yet decided it was a risk I wanted to avoid because the wicking was good.

Thanks for the feedback.

Assuming that you were a previous smoker, even if you are inhaling some tiny particles of silica wick, it has to be better than smoking. So don't worry about it and most definitely don't let me influence you. You don't know me. LOL.

Maybe just try and experiment more with ss wick and low coils more and hopefully you will find a combination that works for you. Also, feel free to post here with any questions or problems as you are not going to find a more helpful crowd. You can also PM me with questions if you like.

 

[Jacoji]

Thanks NatGasMan. I popped my ribbon coil fiddling with it so wrapped a quickie wire coil. Bleh - noticeable change in (lack of) vapor. I went ahead and tried Petar K with my ribbon and found that the ribbon coil is much more forgiving for inserting a wick with a silica core and tail. Success!

I do find some of those Danger! Danger! threads a bit amusing when it is ex-smokers getting riled up about the materials (now you're concerned?). No reason to throw caution to the wind entirely though. As far as silica, some will say that you aren't burning the silica - it is sitting in the juice - and others have pointed out that to develop silicosis it would more likely require working full-time, long-term where there are silica particles in the air (very brief summary).

I'll experiment more with future wicks. I'm going to enjoy this one as long as I can. [Puts big-boy pants on the Poldiac]

 

[Eisofen]

I do have a question about DIY. is it more cost effective to buy the 100 mg base versus the 48 mg that I have been buying? I have purposely been buying the 48 mg strength because of the dangers of 100 mg base. Please remember that I just started DIYing.

I'm DYIng my liquids since 1.5 years. I always use 36mg (50/50) and dilute it with 0mg (50/50) to my required level (6mg since the DID). The 36mg gives me more security when mixing liquids over the 100mg (which I couldn't get here). For calculating my mix: There is an App for it, eJuice. I keep my ingredients (PG/VG) in labeled amber bottles, flavours and menthol in reused liquid bottles and store them in a closet in my living room.
I always mix on demand and let the freshly made liquid sit on a radiator over night.

 

[Jacoji]

Nailed it! (on the I-lost-count-th try) Back to ribbon.

 

[g3n3r1c]

I have a DID on the way, I have a clear tank looks like the plastic, I'm sure I already know the answer but, is it prone to cracking like every other plastic tank? If so I'll have to use the ss tank, my DIY juices will wreck it.

 

[MiriamWTH]

Morning entertainment....

I was video chatting with my best friend in New Zealand this morning and he also has a Poldiac but so far has not cleaned his contacts yet. So to show him how quick and easy it is to get the contacts out I demonstrated it life, I took the screws out, held the button in the housing for the last screw etc, you know the drill...
Then I wanted to show him, why I hold the button, because otherwise it would jump out.... Well I demonstrated it jumping out.... and the button landed in my freshly made cup of coffee!

The funniest part was me then trying to fish the button out with my spoon, not thinking about what my spoon is made off... and yes the button with the magnet on it DID get stuck to my spoon!

By the time my friend finally had stopped laughing I had rinsed and dried the button part and had put the Poldiac back together and was vaping away again.

Poldiac is functioning like nothing has happened, my friend however has sore jaw muscles and a slight belly ache from laughing too much!

 

[Cloud Wizard]

I have a DID on the way, I have a clear tank looks like the plastic, I'm sure I already know the answer but, is it prone to cracking like every other plastic tank? If so I'll have to use the ss tank, my DIY juices will wreck it.

Yes, the Kir Fanis PMMA tanks are susceptible to cracking from some juices: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...uices-flavors-crack-tanks-ce2s-clearos-9.html

 

[Hoey]

My polycarbonate came with the DID has a few cracks due to being dropped! to the tile floor while I was trying taking photos of it but it's not leaking at all!? LOL. I will post photo tomorrow.

 

[dspin]

Thanks for the answer jhjonson123. Would you guys consider .6 and .8 to be reasonably safe for vaping on a mechanical mod like the Poldiac? I just want to make sure that I am being as safe as possible when vaping. Of course I am using aw imr bats.

I would love to see Jim do some Rhodium plating for contacts and such, that would be so nice not to have to clean the silver all the time. I know its expensive to do, but I would def. pay him for it.

The best IMR Batt for handling that is the MNKE IMR




The MNKE 18650 IMR 1500mah (High Drain ) 3.7v

This is a serious battery for serious MOD's and 18650 Capable Personal Vaporizers. The MNKE 18650 Battery Boast some of the most outrageous specs when it comes to performance and current (amps) it is capable of delivering.

This Battery utilizes safer chemistry LiMN and does not require a protection. However if you device has protection built in! Then your dual protected. These batteris can be charged with any LiIon charger with a 4.2v output like our TR-100 multi -charger

FEED THOSE ATOMIZERS THE CURRENT THEY DESERVE! with this awesome battery.

Some Specs: (Un-Protected )
Flat Top Positive (please check with the manufacture of your mod to make sure this type of cell will work if you are in doubt)
Rated Capacity : 1500mah
Max (Cont ) Discharge Current 20A!!!!!
Max Rated Discharging Current 30A
Nominal Voltage 3.8v
Max Charge Voltage 4.2v + - 0.05 V

Length: 65.5 mm
OD 18.28mm




From Avid Vaper

Maximum Continuous Discharging Current 20 A

Maximum pulse Discharging Current 60 A

Maximum Continuous Charging Current 6.5 A

Maximum Rated Discharging Current 30 A

Nominal Voltage 3.8 V

Maximum Charge Voltage 4.2±0.05 V

Temperature Range/Discharge -20~60degree

Temperature Range/Charge 0~45degree

Temperature Range/Storage -20~35 degree

Internal Resistance at Shipping 23±1 m



2nd Choice would be the AW IMR 1600 which out performs the 2200 - worrying about buying the highest MAH batts -All the extra Mah doesnt even come into play until a batt reaches 3.5 or below - worry about the voltage under load.


IMRs are the best batt for all Mechanical PV's -



Far as the Rhodium Plating goes - thats just a gimmick so lazy people dont have to clean their contacts. Rhodium will still wear off eventually too. Look at all the Rhodium Plated Rings that have been made and people complain about Rhodium wearing off.

No need for Jim to Rhodium Plate anything - IMO

 

[Uma]

Hi Uma, I see you lurking. LOL! With the horrible day I had today, I've got to ask you how to leave it all behind and homestead in Alaska! LOL!

Man, this Makers Mark is really getting to me.

Spinning some Queensryche now! Jet City Woman!

It's easy as pie if you have some kind of RV, MH, or camper truck. Solar panels on the windows, aquaphonics on the roof, 1 change of clothes so your vaping gear fits in the closet, a P.O.Box for your vape mail, & a case of your favorite beverage in the belly container.
Oh... and 18 mules to pull that RV in this economy.
I hope today is better for you!!

 

[Uma]

Morning entertainment....

I was video chatting with my best friend in New Zealand this morning and he also has a Poldiac but so far has not cleaned his contacts yet. So to show him how quick and easy it is to get the contacts out I demonstrated it life, I took the screws out, held the button in the housing for the last screw etc, you know the drill...
Then I wanted to show him, why I hold the button, because otherwise it would jump out.... Well I demonstrated it jumping out.... and the button landed in my freshly made cup of coffee!

The funniest part was me then trying to fish the button out with my spoon, not thinking about what my spoon is made off... and yes the button with the magnet on it DID get stuck to my spoon!

By the time my friend finally had stopped laughing I had rinsed and dried the button part and had put the Poldiac back together and was vaping away again.

Poldiac is functioning like nothing has happened, my friend however has sore jaw muscles and a slight belly ache from laughing too much!

Now, that's funny!!!

 

[Uma]

The best IMR Batt for handling that is the MNKE IMR




The MNKE 18650 IMR 1500mah (High Drain ) 3.7v

This is a serious battery for serious MOD's and 18650 Capable Personal Vaporizers. The MNKE 18650 Battery Boast some of the most outrageous specs when it comes to performance and current (amps) it is capable of delivering.

This Battery utilizes safer chemistry LiMN and does not require a protection. However if you device has protection built in! Then your dual protected. These batteris can be charged with any LiIon charger with a 4.2v output like our TR-100 multi -charger

FEED THOSE ATOMIZERS THE CURRENT THEY DESERVE! with this awesome battery.

Some Specs: (Un-Protected )
Flat Top Positive (please check with the manufacture of your mod to make sure this type of cell will work if you are in doubt)
Rated Capacity : 1500mah
Max (Cont ) Discharge Current 20A!!!!!
Max Rated Discharging Current 30A
Nominal Voltage 3.8v
Max Charge Voltage 4.2v + - 0.05 V

Length: 65.5 mm
OD 18.28mm




From Avid Vaper

Maximum Continuous Discharging Current 20 A

Maximum pulse Discharging Current 60 A

Maximum Continuous Charging Current 6.5 A

Maximum Rated Discharging Current 30 A

Nominal Voltage 3.8 V

Maximum Charge Voltage 4.2±0.05 V

Temperature Range/Discharge -20~60degree

Temperature Range/Charge 0~45degree

Temperature Range/Storage -20~35 degree

Internal Resistance at Shipping 23±1 m



2nd Choice would be the AW IMR 1600 which out performs the 2200 - worrying about buying the highest MAH batts -All the extra Mah doesnt even come into play until a batt reaches 3.5 or below - worry about the voltage under load.


IMRs are the best batt for all Mechanical PV's -



Far as the Rhodium Plating goes - thats just a gimmick so lazy people dont have to clean their contacts. Rhodium will still wear off eventually too. Look at all the Rhodium Plated Rings that have been made and people complain about Rhodium wearing off.

No need for Jim to Rhodium Plate anything - IMO

Good info!!
The Rhodium P+ guy has been telling everyone that only Rhodium works, that silver & brass are crap & shouldn't be used, etc...
I sooooooo want to box him in the jaw... such a panty hampster if there ever was one. I lost all respect for the idiot. But, let's not go there... everyone is entitled to their own opinion, yes they are.... (but not at the expense of others!! hrrrmmph!!!)

 

[Tonytiger1]

She what clean pipes still do for you call you ob_um

 

[Dizz]

Good info!!
The Rhodium P+ guy has been telling everyone that only Rhodium works, that silver & brass are crap & shouldn't be used, etc...
I sooooooo want to box him in the jaw... such a panty hampster if there ever was one. I lost all respect for the idiot. But, let's not go there... everyone is entitled to their own opinion, yes they are.... (but not at the expense of others!! hrrrmmph!!!)

Gonna buy Poldiac from Jim and have a Precise ELA from Dave (panty hampster)*grin* on order. I think neither one of these mod makers are hacks at all. I believe both Jim and Dave are some of the best quality makers of mods and accessories around. I am sure I will like both mods equally as well. No need to be mean to Dave.