I started to hate Provari, I like 1.1-0.9ohm . Too many protections...
is it with all Genesis or just the DID?
do you think guys if I order the stainless steel nuts and centre pole from jim this will reduce the error messages in provari?
New Genesis type atomizer by DID!
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is it with all Genesis or just the DID?
do you think guys if I order the stainless steel nuts and centre pole from jim this will reduce the error messages in provari?
No. Depends on the the wick, oxidation, wraps.. Provari will help you make a good wick . If not E1, E2, E8 will become your enemy
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I don't think it's the DID.
Although I use my mini DID on my epipe, I can run my mini DID on my Provari V2 and haven't come up with an E1 or any Provari error messages (yet).
And this is running with the wire and 325 mesh that the mini DID came with (1.3ohms on a 3/2 wrap and at 1.7ohms on a 4/3 wrap).
The E1 sounds like you may have a short somewhere so you may want to make sure your wick is oxidized and/or check your coiling (coils aren't touching anything but the wick and that it's snugly secured to the center pole with the two nuts).
For an E1 error, you may want to try lowering your voltage settings to the lowest setting and work up from there. From the Provari Manual:
E1 – Short Circuit / Shorted Atomizer – If this error appears, remove the atomizer and replace with a different one
or lower your voltage settings. The ProVari will automatically reset when the problem is fixed.
In regards to SS making a difference, I can't answer that since the mini DID came all SS. But I can answer that if a wick is poorly oxidized and/or the coiling is off, SS or brass won't make a difference.
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For me, there are a couple reasons. I don't go as low res as some folks, but 1.5ohm-1.7ohm is spot on for me. The lower res coils seem to fire up quicker, I can get a warmer vape and they work equally well on my VV devices as they do on my 3.7v fixed voltage batts. 1.5ohm@3.7v is 9.1 watts which is my sweet spot. Even if I was only using VV (my Provari, Gripper, etc...) I'd still target this range as the flavor seems stronger to me than when I was targeting HV wraps (I did some 2.9ohm to 3.2ohm and didn't feel like I got the same performance). Of course everyone's tastes are different, YMMV.
Not sure I'd ever target "ultra-low-res" on a VV (e.g. 0.6ohm to 0.8ohm) because the switches wouldn't handle the higher amperage current very well. Folks who are target the 15-20 watt vaping are doing it on fixed battery mech mods with really high discharge batteries (e.g. 30A MNKE's). IMHO, they must have steel throats/lungs, cause I tried it and literally couldn't take it...
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My did rests in the shield pouch. I ride 270 miles to work once a week. Would have to stop to smoke. Now just when I hit the reserve. Even works in the rain.
My D has more time on 2 wheels then most people.
Tony
The SS hardware is way easier for me to use (no tools required), but if you're getting E1/E2 you're either wrapping too low a resistance (add coils) or most likely not getting your wick fully oxidized (#1 culprit for E1 for me). I do find 30awg wire is less troublesome, so I'm digging a 4/5 wrap (on a fat wick) to get to my comfort zone (1.5ohm to 1.7ohm). Not sure this is true for everyone, but I also seem to have less short/hot spot problems with higher grained mesh (400 or 500).
You don't need very low resistance with VV devices as you can dial in a higher voltage to get more watts at coil. LR atomisers and wire for rebuildables are for fixed voltage units/mechanical mods (3.7v) so by lowering the resistance of the coil more current (A) would flow producing more watts/heat
6.0 volts divided by 1.8 ohms = 3.33 amps (below Provaria 3.5A max)
6.0 volts divided by 1.7 ohms = 3.53 amps ( Provaria error code )
6.0 volts x 3.33 amps = 19.8 watts
So voltage set at 6v and using a 1.8 ohm coil you could produce nearly 20 watts of heat through the juice but stil be within the 3.5A limit
I cannot see any point when you own a VV device of trying to get the lowest resistance possible, just measure and use what coil you have wrapped and then adjust the voltage to get the wattage that you personally like for that type of juice
I find tobaco likes a higher temperature than fruits and have to swap to a lower resistance coil when I change juice type because I run a fixed voltage (3.7v) mod and at these times I wish I had a VV. Maybe when the VMax Z gets here as it has variable watts and that would remove all the need for these calculations !!
Thanks for the headsup on the estimated time, Jim. I need more time to save enuff for one so I'm in no hurry. Will there be an ending time for these or will we be able to swagger in whenever we can?
tapatalk2
I forgot to mention that I use 3mg nicotine per ml.
I started to hate Provari, I like 1.1-0.9ohm . Too many protections...
Stick with it mate...the Provari is actually your friend and telling you that your set-up is not quite right.
When you get these E errors either your wick is wrong or your coil is wrong.
That will be cool Jim, no rushing from me...whenever you get them made is fine, as I don't have any cash for new trinkets until the end of the month anyway...lol.
I noticed that you said something about next weekend...would that be for the discount or you expect the stock you are in the process of making will only be available until next weekend ?
No. Depends on the the wick, oxidation, wraps.. Provari will help you make a good wick . If not E1, E2, E8 will become your enemy
Do you know that you are the only person who solved my problem?
I tried everything to make my DID work with provari and I toke many advices but nothing worked
Oxidation was the answer key, I toke the old wick out and oxidized it again like 5 times and it worked with first set with no issues and no error messages.
problem solved, thanks
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I thought that we were all aware that the wick needs to be well oxidized...especially for a Provari...if I had known earlier that was your problem I would have posted that up for you braveheart.
My wick is that well oxidized I can even have it touching the bottom of my tank with no problems.
Braveheart are you Scottish ?
It's your handle "Braveheart"...he was a very famous Scottish hero as you may well know if you have ever saw the film.
It's just that I'm Scottish so I was curious wether or not you were Scottish.
It's just that I'm Scottish so I was curious wether or not you were Scottish.
I always use "breaveheart" since I saw that movie when I was a kid
Agree. I always see people complain about hot spots/shorts. I try to give them the same simple advice. But no that have to listen to the fancy answers.
Burn the crap out of the wick. You can even do it with a lighter.
put juice on it burn it some more. If it looks like it's old and black. Ready for use. . Tony
good to know,,for me a serial number will set the DID apart from all the other knock-offs showing up..thanks
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