Yeah... I knew someone was going to say that, I am too. If you've got a hack saw, you could cut them into thirds.
New Kanger Box Mod- The Subox
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Yeah... I knew someone was going to say that, I am too. If you've got a hack saw, you could cut them into thirds.
I heard the new vertical occs can handle higher watts better. Does that mean that it would be a cooler vape vs the horizontal coils at the same wattage? Thanks.
The Box that ROCKS!!
This thing works wonders. I believe I'll buy another just to destroy at work. RBA at 30 watts, stock coil and Cotton, 50/50 juice. I installed the .5 vertical head in an older subtank, performed well, but the added airflow of the new tanks make em sing.
Now, what to do with the two older gen subtank??
This thing works wonders. I believe I'll buy another just to destroy at work. RBA at 30 watts, stock coil and Cotton, 50/50 juice. I installed the .5 vertical head in an older subtank, performed well, but the added airflow of the new tanks make em sing.
Now, what to do with the two older gen subtank??
Having a delrin tip helps keep the vape cooler. Although it can still get fairly warm. What I have noticed though is that with these newer coils, firing at higher wattages, the bottom of the tank heats up when you start chain vaping at higher wattages, which is something that the older coil and tank didn't do.
I'm currently vaping the 0.5 ohm coil at 40 watts, and I'm vaping Jungle Fever by Ruthless. It is supposed to be a 10PG/90VG juice, but I believe they thin the juice out with distilled water because it doesn't appear that thick to me.
I did it with my old subtank, the og. I used the tiniest drill bit I had that would fit the smallest set screw I had. To be honest it doesn't look great, but it does work. I'll check real quick.
I think it was a 1/4 20, 13/64" bit. And a 1/4 20 bolt. It's a bit big and idk if it'd work on a mini.
get air bubbles at the lil screw site too, not from wick holes at all. And I am not having any problem vaping my juice down past the big holes. I have gone just past holes, not much further. I just do the old fashioned tilt the tank trick I used a couple years ago when I started out using CE4 clearos, lol.
Update on my bum stock coils. MVS sent me replacement coils unfortunately they are the older version, horizontal coils not vertical. I was shocked they acted so quick to my email and held out hope that they were going to be the new version even though I know they aren't available outside the kit yet. I'm bummed but hey, MVS did what they could so no complaints.
Question... dang it... I had 3 things to post about, was saving my question for the end of post and now I can't flipping remember the question....
I'll be back.... lol
Oh, I remember. I lost an o-ring from one of my mini rba set ups. The one that goes in between the pin and threads, not the one closest to bottom of the deck. Anyone got ideas on replacements?
And while sitting here I wonder if someone could point me in the right direction on something else. Often times I use the premade coils (not stock occ) but the prebuilt coils you can get specifically for the kanger mini rba. The ones I have to wick. Usually the come in about .4-.8 or .9. It varies. However I can NEVER vape past 18-19 watts without getting that burnt taste. Gotta be my wick, right? I follow the guide of the video many here have posted and use too. Thick thru the coil, thinned out a lil on ends. Help? TIA
Update on my bum stock coils. MVS sent me replacement coils unfortunately they are the older version, horizontal coils not vertical. I was shocked they acted so quick to my email and held out hope that they were going to be the new version even though I know they aren't available outside the kit yet. I'm bummed but hey, MVS did what they could so no complaints.
Question... dang it... I had 3 things to post about, was saving my question for the end of post and now I can't flipping remember the question....
I'll be back.... lol
Oh, I remember. I lost an o-ring from one of my mini rba set ups. The one that goes in between the pin and threads, not the one closest to bottom of the deck. Anyone got ideas on replacements?
And while sitting here I wonder if someone could point me in the right direction on something else. Often times I use the premade coils (not stock occ) but the prebuilt coils you can get specifically for the kanger mini rba. The ones I have to wick. Usually the come in about .4-.8 or .9. It varies. However I can NEVER vape past 18-19 watts without getting that burnt taste. Gotta be my wick, right? I follow the guide of the video many here have posted and use too. Thick thru the coil, thinned out a lil on ends. Help? TIA
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get air bubbles at the lil screw site too, not from wick holes at all. And I am not having any problem vaping my juice down past the big holes. I have gone just past holes, not much further. I just do the old fashioned tilt the tank trick I used a couple years ago when I started out using CE4 clearos, lol.
Update on my bum stock coils. MVS sent me replacement coils unfortunately they are the older version, horizontal coils not vertical. I was shocked they acted so quick to my email and held out hope that they were going to be the new version even though I know they aren't available outside the kit yet. I'm bummed but hey, MVS did what they could so no complaints.
Question... dang it... I had 3 things to post about, was saving my question for the end of post and now I can't flipping remember the question....
I'll be back.... lol
Oh, I remember. I lost an o-ring from one of my mini rba set ups. The one that goes in between the pin and threads, not the one closest to bottom of the deck. Anyone got ideas on replacements?
And while sitting here I wonder if someone could point me in the right direction on something else. Often times I use the premade coils (not stock occ) but the prebuilt coils you can get specifically for the kanger mini rba. The ones I have to wick. Usually the come in about .4-.8 or .9. It varies. However I can NEVER vape past 18-19 watts without getting that burnt taste. Gotta be my wick, right? I follow the guide of the video many here have posted and use too. Think thru the coil, thinned out a lil on ends. Help? TIA
Too bad about the coil replacement. If you're still interesting in trying the 1.5ohm OCC vertical coil, Sweet Vapes just notified me that they are in stock. The 0.5ohm and 1.2ohm are "coming soon".
I'm assuming you're talking about the old style RBA? I'm not sure what o-ring you are referring to. Is it the one under the RBA?
As for the burning problem, it's almost always related to wicking. Something is stopping or slowing the juice flow to the coil and if there is not enough juice to cook, it's burns the cotton. I rarely vape past 15-16W and never over 20W, so I've never had any burning problems with the Gary Lee wicking method that I posted earlier. I make my own coils and prefer them to be compressed (no gaps between wraps), then when wicking I try to make the cotton inside the coil as tight as possible, then fluff out the ends before cutting them. Another thing I've been doing with the Japanese cotton is removing the thin, compressed outer layer off of both sides before I wick. With the new RBA I do the same stuff with the coil and wick, but then do the "bunny ears" thing instead through the sleeve, fluff the cotton and push it down over the holes. So far it doesn't seem to matter how much cotton ends up on the deck, as long as the holes are covered and the cotton is lower than the bottom of the coil so that it doesn't flood. Hope this helps.
get air bubbles at the lil screw site too, not from wick holes at all. And I am not having any problem vaping my juice down past the big holes. I have gone just past holes, not much further. I just do the old fashioned tilt the tank trick I used a couple years ago when I started out using CE4 clearos, lol.
Update on my bum stock coils. MVS sent me replacement coils unfortunately they are the older version, horizontal coils not vertical. I was shocked they acted so quick to my email and held out hope that they were going to be the new version even though I know they aren't available outside the kit yet. I'm bummed but hey, MVS did what they could so no complaints.
Question... dang it... I had 3 things to post about, was saving my question for the end of post and now I can't flipping remember the question....
I'll be back.... lol
Oh, I remember. I lost an o-ring from one of my mini rba set ups. The one that goes in between the pin and threads, not the one closest to bottom of the deck. Anyone got ideas on replacements?
And while sitting here I wonder if someone could point me in the right direction on something else. Often times I use the premade coils (not stock occ) but the prebuilt coils you can get specifically for the kanger mini rba. The ones I have to wick. Usually the come in about .4-.8 or .9. It varies. However I can NEVER vape past 18-19 watts without getting that burnt taste. Gotta be my wick, right? I follow the guide of the video many here have posted and use too. Think thru the coil, thinned out a lil on ends. Help? TIA
is there a picture you can show us? cause if your talking about the bottom where the pin goes into the RBA then thats an insulator and i dont know how you would of lost it cause you have to unscrew the pin to even get to that
just ordered all the wire i need for my stapled staggered build
160 ft of various nichrome 80 and some kanthal flat ribbon
should be a fun little thing to try, just gotta get a vice and a drill now.... wanna get a smaller drill then what i have
and a drill press/table top vice will be nice to have for this and future builds and to maybe mod some atties on my press
That looks like the bottom of the Hanging Basket I replanted yesterday with Geranium Subcaulescens.
LOL
Here's a pic. the one on the right looks different, like it's missing something. I thought it was an old ring but it's part of the insulator. I can unscrew the one on the left and not the one on the right!?
Here's a pic. the one on the right looks different, like it's missing something. I thought it was an old ring but it's part of the insulator. I can unscrew the one on the left and not the one on the right!?
looks like you're missing the insulator, or its broken/missing part of it. you need to unscrew that bottom piece and remove the pin, which will allow you to remove the build deck and take out the insulator under the deck and inspect it. now i know you can get a replacement from the US Kanger warrenty place, so thats probably what your going to have to end up doing, or buy a new RBA unit
Okay, thank you. Thought I was going crazy, lol... I will contact the vendor first and see if they'll help me first cuz I imagine that will be easier than kanger. So far, I cannot get it unscrewed. Maybe cuz the insulator melted? Can't imagine that happened since I do not vape high wattage.
it should unscrew so something might be jamming it, wonder if you have one of the original ones before the new insulator
pliers to hold the build deck and a small screwdriver to get some leverage on the pin might break it free
Oooooo blue screw driver, good idea! I'll try it once I'm home. I don't get it. I have never taken it apart, always been worried I wouldn't get it back together right, lol. Is the insulator all one piece or two? Guess I could wait to find out when I get home. [emoji12]
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