Try setting the Air Flow to the Lowest Setting, 1 hole each side, and then put a Wooden Toothpick in one of the Holes.
New Kanger Box Mod- The Subox
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Try setting the Air Flow to the Lowest Setting, 1 hole each side, and then put a Wooden Toothpick in one of the Holes.
Based on the description on several vendor sites, the new RBA that is included in the Subox kit is called the "Subtank RBA Mini Plus". Allegedly it's going to be available for purchase "in June".
On the topic of the "Subtank RBA Mini Plus", I just discovered they are now available from FastTech for $3.
EDIT: The link above is not an authentic Kanger Subtank RBA Mini Plus. However, FastTech does have the authentic Kanger Subtank RBA Mini Plus. NOTE: The photos are of the original RBA, but in the description it states that it is the Plus.
EDIT: The link above is not an authentic Kanger Subtank RBA Mini Plus. However, FastTech does have the authentic Kanger Subtank RBA Mini Plus. NOTE: The photos are of the original RBA, but in the description it states that it is the Plus.
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So I'm trying the new coils on a Nano, and right away, I noticed they have a scratchy break-in flavor like the old Atlantis coils, and that these don't fix the spitting issue in the least.
However, once the break-in period is done, I think I'm getting slightly more equalized flavor with my juices, and they somehow completely fixed the rubber-taste issue that I always ran into at higher watts. I knew I wasn't just imagining it.
They do produce less vapor though, but there is more airflow as well. They make the base of my Nano hot like the Atlantis, the old OCC coils didn't do that.
Question: my new coil has a spot in the center, and just on the left side, that's turning dark, while the rest of the inner cotton tunnel looks pure white, and the majority of the coil is still as silver as if it was brand new. I've tightened everything down as snug as it can go to make sure everything is connecting. Could this be a hot spot? If it is, it might explain the spitting. The old OCC's did this too, the center wraps would get black as tar, and the outer wraps would stay white and silver. Never seemed like the entire coil was heating up... and the new OVC's seem to do the same thing.
However, once the break-in period is done, I think I'm getting slightly more equalized flavor with my juices, and they somehow completely fixed the rubber-taste issue that I always ran into at higher watts. I knew I wasn't just imagining it.
They do produce less vapor though, but there is more airflow as well. They make the base of my Nano hot like the Atlantis, the old OCC coils didn't do that.
Question: my new coil has a spot in the center, and just on the left side, that's turning dark, while the rest of the inner cotton tunnel looks pure white, and the majority of the coil is still as silver as if it was brand new. I've tightened everything down as snug as it can go to make sure everything is connecting. Could this be a hot spot? If it is, it might explain the spitting. The old OCC's did this too, the center wraps would get black as tar, and the outer wraps would stay white and silver. Never seemed like the entire coil was heating up... and the new OVC's seem to do the same thing.
On the product page there were a few discussions on this topic. Worse case, you can still get an authentic Kanger one for $6, if you don't mind waiting on the slow-boat shipping.
Yeah... 6 Bucks for a Kanger Isn't exactly a Deal Breaker. In fact, it is a Pretty Good price if you ask me.
The Reason I mentioned the PEEK insulator was because to of the Early Subtank Mini's knock-offs came with Money Azz insulators.
Yeah, I remember that. It looks like Sweet Vapes is going to be selling the RBA for $8, once they're in stock. I guess it comes down to how many spare RBAs you need. I like to pre-build some, so all I have to do is juice them up and go.
I kinda like to have at Least 1 Backup of most things I use.
I don't really Worry about the RBA Section shorting out. And I'm Very Carefull to not Cross Thread things on e-Cigarettes.
But I can See one of those Tiny Screws leaping out of the Deck and making a Beeline for the Shag Carpet. Or a Threat in the Screw hole Stripping 20 Minutes before I have to leave for work.
Not Sure why Stuff Always Breaks when I am Walking Out the door. But it Always does.
LOL
Some people just aren't interested in doing their own coils and you might be able to buy their unused rba's too.
Welcome Chanel, good to see you here. Lots of great peeps and coil building info here too.
Yeah ok, thanks. I think it's called a mini plus. Should be written on the rba chimney. Kinda confusing with the new Kanger Subtank Plus Tank named the same.
I posted something to this effect on one of the previous 94 pages. I have friends and family that got the Subox, but have never had any interest in a RBA. They've gladly given me that "wrap your own wire thingy".
I thought about doing something in the classifieds, but couldn't think of an efficient way to do it.I have some friends with the same problem. They solved it by using the completely open slot, then gradually closed it until it was the type of draw they wanted. You don't have to select one of the 3 notched settings.
Not on the version of the tank in my kit -- there is overlap of the settings so the next hole is being exposed well before the big slot is closed.
I'm glad you bring this point to light. I toil with the fact that Kanthal requires an oxidation temperature break in. It's not a problem with RDA/RBA's when you can "burn" them in via torch or dry burning. I theorize that is the reason for spaced wrap builds in disposable coils as the oxidation creates an insulating layer. To the point of trying to design a vacuum pump or something similar to take the first few hits. Not to create a health hazard stir, but that first hit nastiness is a tangible thing to me.
I'm thinking I understand what you are trying to say. Could be a manufacturing defect? There seem to be some documented inconsistencies in this thread concluding such. If so, perhaps it is a warranty issue that could be taken up with the vendor. Maybe post a photo. As the old adage goes, a picture is worth one thousand words...
If I close down the large slot on mine in one direction there is an overlap with the next setting; if I close it down the other direction there is not. But then again, I don't have the newest version.
If I set mine just right between the smallest and medium air holes I can cut off the air flow entirely. But other than no air flow or the smallest air flow setting there is no control which would be nice to have.
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