NEW MODS!! The PrecisePlus 18500 & 18350.

[forcedfuel50]

Thanks everybody who participated in this thread. I now know first hand the beauty and power of a Super-T mod. I'm thrilled with the P+ 18500! Vaporologist, you're off the hook.
Quick question: Do we use Noalox on the threads?

No, you can throw your Noalox , Deoxit Gold, Silver conducting grease, vaseline etc out as all are just petroleum based. It's personal preference but i do apply a dab of Di-electric grease to the the top and bottom cap threads. It's not for conductivity (nor was Noalox or Deoxit Gold for that matter).

There was always (and still is) misconceptions about why Noalox, Di-electric grease, Deoxit Gold, silver conducting grease or Vaseline aid electrical conductivity. It's not because any of them are great conductors, it's because they shield the brass (or aluminum or stainless) from oxygen and moisture, both of which quickly corrode and tarnish the base metal which impedes electrical flow. With the new Triplated Rhodium contacts, their is no corrosion or tarnishing, so you can throw your coatings/cleaners away.

 

[forcedfuel50]

Thank you. One more question though. Mine came with no black orings installed. I use aw imr 18490. It is working fine without them. Do I need to put one in? Thanks again.

The Orings that come in the Ziplock back are spares and a different sized then those that came preinstalled in your unit. Your unit should have had two .100 thick Orings preinstalled underneath the battery for the AW IMR 18490. On the AW P18500 battery, only one .100 thick Oring is used. (in your parts bag there would have been two .070 thick Orings or for units set up for the AW P18500 battery, there would be 2 .070 thick Orings and 1 .100 thick Oring).

All you should have needed to do is pop your AW IMR 18490 in and vape. I've been setting up all units prior to shipping with the battery the customer intends to use.

Note on the Orings: they do not insert from the switch end, they insert from the battery end. To install, start them in the top and push them down in with a battery until they bottom out on the machined in ledge in your unit. To remove them, take out the switch and using a pen or small screwdriver or the like, push them up and out through the top of the unit.

 

[forcedfuel50]

Like I said I bugged him A LOT about it...don't remember if it was in a thread I started about it or in some desperate PM where I begged to even be able to buy the prototype...lol...
He pretty much said that cutting the threads for 510,801, 901, and 808 cartos, makes it too delecate and unstable...so it'd have to be beefed up which detracts from the whole precision of the precise.....
I remember the whole mes because there was some whining by some other mod maker/users over the whole who's idea it was and who came out with it first nonsense.

Oh yes, the infamous 4 in 1 connector and the bruhaha that followed it. It is a true 4 in 1; no extra screw on connector is needed to run 901's, 510's 801's or cartos. All 4 are in one connector. I've been meaning to post up some disassembled shots of it. I'm not so sure it's really all that necessary anymore as 510's have become so dominant but who knows...

 

[forcedfuel50]

A question for David...

Do brass washers on the button under the screw need to be kept shinny? Does their eventual discoloration affect the current and performance in any way at all?

Thanks.

No, the the threaded battery contact conducts the electrcity into the button through the threads so if the washers were to tarnish, not a problem.

 

[forcedfuel50]

P+18350 is IN!!! First impression is WOW. Craftsmanship is unmatched. Art is a good description. How does he do it and not have every other mod maker in the country scrambling to catch up. If everyone knew about these mods we'd have a lot of happy vapers! Thank goodness for the drive of a certain few to benefit the rest of us. Now just waiting for my 18500! The wait is now a hell of a lot more bearable thanks to the 350. In fact i am completely satisfied...need the bat. life of the 500 though. All the other mods may now begin their dust collection

Good news to hear! I've noticed a lot of Precise owners from Arizona and New Mexico, must be something in the weather down there in the Southwest! I backbacked the grandcanyon twice now and can't wait to go back again!

 

[forcedfuel50]

Just have to give a shout out to MisterD who's online this morning!! Good morning MisterD!

 

[Drozd]

There's also the P10 that came out about the same time as the P16 & P18. Nice "exceptionally tiny precise" little mod!

Nah I got that one...it came out far enough ahead of the other 2 that it was simply just the precise..... later we started adding the numbers after there were multiple sized precise

 

[Drozd]

Oh yes, the infamous 4 in 1 connector and the bruhaha that followed it. It is a true 4 in 1; no extra screw on connector is needed to run 901's, 510's 801's or cartos. All 4 are in one connector. I've been meaning to post up some disassembled shots of it. I'm not so sure it's really all that necessary anymore as 510's have become so dominant but who knows...

Lol....come on now David don't tease me like that.... I had finally let hope for it go...as for how nessicary it may be....there are still a lot of people that use multiple different atties ..finally gave up on cartos myself but at one point I was switching between 510, 306, 801, and 808 cartos....adapters get to be a PITA..... though lately it seems the trend is toward tanks so I dunno...

 

[Grammie]

I'm a bit late on the party to answering this, but yeah, it was born of a need to produce a quality ecig for mom (LadyMama) I think i discuss it a bit in my interview:


For those who missed it, you can listen to it here:

The replay is up A tribute to The T1 08/21 by kevbow | Blog Talk Radio
Thanks to Dave for being my guest

Thank you LadyMama!!

 

[Shaman]

My photography skillz ain't nowhere close to wing,but heres my gang of Super T stuff

View attachment 56034

Are those brass top/bottom caps on the P10? Been kicking myself for not getting a P10 with the brass caps when I could. I know the battery life sucks, but damn! thats a fine looking mod!

 

[Joanr]

Does anyone know the wait time for the flat top 18350/18500s? I was about to pull the trigger and the flats are unavailable.

 

[Drozd]

Does anyone know the wait time for the flat top 18350/18500s? I was about to pull the trigger and the flats are unavailable.

I'd expect minimal wait on that...I believe post #739 of this thread David says that p+ should be shipping again by weeks end...but he could probably give a better answer...

The smart ... answer is that no matter the wait time it's always too long...

Hitting the 4 week mark on my wait on a p18 myself and going crazy with a single ego left from my backup stash....
But in defense I did ask for something custom and he did launch two new models in that time......

If ya'll weren't so hyper crazy for the new stuff maybe it'd have gotten done by now.....lol...order 7468.... think the new precises that are shipping are in the 7700ish order # range

 

[snork]

I've been looking at my P+ out in the sun for a little bit while I take a break at work. I'm compelled to write that this is absolutely the most finely crafted object I own, possibly ever have owned or ever will. And it kicks my .... when I vape it, too.

If you look at the button end you can see on the interior of the horns how a curvature of less than a hair is present to accommodate the curvature of the button. Awesome.

 

[Joanr]

I'd expect minimal wait on that...I believe post #739 of this thread David says that p+ should be shipping again by weeks end...but he could probably give a better answer...

Thanks, but I was wondering how long the wait for the flat top version to be available again, not the ship time. Right now the only choice is the slant top.

 

[forcedfuel50]

Thanks, but I was wondering how long the wait for the flat top version to be available again, not the ship time. Right now the only choice is the slant top.

I had giving estimates, but i'd estimate about 4-5 weeks. Somehow, i overlooked making flats last time i had a batch of tops made up.

 

[Joanr]

I had giving estimates, but i'd estimate about 4-5 weeks. Somehow, i overlooked making flats last time i had a batch of tops made up.

Ok, thanks, I'll be watching for them!

 

[bmwjen]

What are the tanks made of that the Fuzz up? Acrylic? Real polycarbonate shouldn't be affected by juice. Do tanks frequently leak and and come apart?

Well, 2 of my polycarbonate tanks have cracked, & I am not using any juice that is known to affect polycarbonate. I'm guessing that since everyone wants their tanks to be "tight" that the o-rings swell over time, & have nowhere to go, but to crack the tank.

I went to Mcarr Masters & was just gonna order a few feet of polycarbonate, but decided instead to buy 4ft of stainless steel tubing. My husband said he can cut it, & make the edges smooth. It's got the same ID/OD of a stainless tank I picked up at Vegas Vapefest. I've got 6 more tanks from that vendor, so i'll just use his same stainless top/bottom caps in the stainless tanks my husband cuts for me.

So, at 2 inches per tank.............& i'm gonna have 4 foot of it..........I'll have 24 tanks............LMAO..........for the same price I could have bought ONE polycarbonate tank. I am so sick of the polycarbonate tanks. They either slip, leak, or crack. FYI, I use stainless CE2s that have been cut in my tanks, NOT the cartos that are filled with fluff. When the CE2 dies, I use 400 count SS mesh & kanthol to rebuild them. (well, I don't, but my husband does)

 

[forcedfuel50]

Well, 2 of my polycarbonate tanks have cracked, & I am not using any juice that is known to affect polycarbonate. I'm guessing that since everyone wants their tanks to be "tight" that the o-rings swell over time, & have nowhere to go, but to crack the tank.

I went to Mcarr Masters & was just gonna order a few feet of polycarbonate, but decided instead to buy 4ft of stainless steel tubing. My husband said he can cut it, & make the edges smooth. It's got the same ID/OD of a stainless tank I picked up at Vegas Vapefest. I've got 6 more tanks from that vendor, so i'll just use his same stainless top/bottom caps in the stainless tanks my husband cuts for me.

So, at 2 inches per tank.............& i'm gonna have 4 foot of it..........I'll have 24 tanks............LMAO..........for the same price I could have bought ONE polycarbonate tank. I am so sick of the polycarbonate tanks. They either slip, leak, or crack. FYI, I use stainless CE2s that have been cut in my tanks, NOT the cartos that are filled with fluff. When the CE2 dies, I use 400 count SS mesh & kanthol to rebuild them. (well, I don't, but my husband does)

Wow, for real? I mean, let me reword that, i'm not doubting you.

I'm just wondering if some tanks may be trying pass other materials (such as acrylic or plexiglass and the like) as polycarbonate? I mean, you can take real polycarbonate at room temperature and bend it in half with no cracking under most circumstances.

Is there any chance anyone who has cracked or broken tanks that were polycarbonate tanks they would be willing to send me? I would really like the oportunity to examine them. This isn't to call out any vendors or start any fights, i just want to research suitable materials for tanks.

David

 

[bmwjen]

sure, i'll send you my cracked tanks. I'm going to the post office in a few hours actually.

I'm glad you want to research suitable material for tanks!! This means we potentially have a super-t tank on the horizon!

 

[forcedfuel50]

sure, i'll send you my cracked tanks. I'm going to the post office in a few hours actually.

I'm glad you want to research suitable material for tanks!! This means we potentially have a super-t tank on the horizon!

We've always had a tank on the Super T horizon (an integrated style, not like any out there, other then it holds juice..lol) problem is That horizon may be a ways off!!! I poke fun at myself