I won an 18350 and was concerned about hit on a small batt. Well it is one of the best mechanical mods I have ever used. It hits hard and consistently. It is used everyday.
anyone using a new precise+ with an adapter to 801 or 808 while looking seamless with the device? i have a 350 on the way and curious/worried I wont be able to use my 808 cartos or 801 fusions![]()



Interesting. I thought the Protected 18500's would have a steeper decline than the IMR 18490's, when in fact it's slightly the opposite. I am very interested to see the results at 2.5 amps. Since I pretty much only low-resistance atomizers, 2.5 amps is more realistic.
anyone using a new precise+ with an adapter to 801 or 808 while looking seamless with the device? i have a 350 on the way and curious/worried I wont be able to use my 808 cartos or 801 fusions![]()
I've placed my first order with supert last Friday for a p+18350. What is the normal time for them to ship? I've been spoiled by most of my other vendors so anything over a couple of days with no shipping notice has me wondering.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If I remember correctly I think David said that he was gonna try to get Fridays order out sometime this week. Other vendors dont sell the precise so we have to waitI am waiting for a P+10, so we are in the same boat.
David sorry
P+500 when it becomes available?
sorry but I did not know where to ask
and do not want to disturb you with an email
For posterity, the 510-eGo adapter requires a circuit board spacer, as the typical mass-produced 510-eGo adapter sold by every site I've seen is too deep on the eGo end.
1. Happy Thanksgiving To Y'ALL !!!!
2. DAVID: My springs have not yet arrived, and it's been several weeks; so Im a bit worried... !!!!
3. WARNING: For all P+s' users: DO-NOT overtighten your atty... As you may very well know... This could end up in your unit "getting plugged firing" and the heat in just a matter of seconds will be WOW...
I learnt this the hard way as I would overtighten my atties on a regular basis -just out of being silly, I guess...-
Anyway, the thing is... Even though I managed to unscrew the cap ASAP, the heat was massive and despite the fact nothing really bad or serious happened, the switch-button to my PrecisePlus ended up having some sort of micro-"freckles" as a result to being exposed to such heat... It seems to be rusty-freckles/ oxidized micro-areas...
I have even grown fond of them, as I really like having this "freckly" unit; feels unique, and I swear I love the distinctive touch... But... I know most of you would hate having this problem, so bear in mind you should never ever over-tighten your atty.
Then again, I think nobody out there is to overtighten their atties they way I would, heeee...
=)
I'd think over-tightening the atty would only make it a little harder to unscrew the atty off. What I don't understand is how over-tightening the atty could possibly make the switch at the opposite end of the tube get stuck 'on'. Please explain.![]()