No Contact with Cyclone

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zmauls

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My Cyclone suddenly stopped working. When I took apart the mod to check the problem, I realized the 510 connection was lacking just that; a connection. There is minimal contact, and therein lies the problem.

How does one bring down the contact on a Cyclone? It looks simple enough, but I when I brought a flathead screwdriver to the connection to try and loosen it, it would not budge.

Looks like it should, no?

cyclone-top-feed-afs-set-ot-vicious-ant_06.jpg
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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well, they are either screw or push fit, have you tried pushing down on the +post to get more overhang at the bottom, I tried to unscrew mine when I fist got it but same as you I couldn't budge it, all that happened was the head started deforming a little so haven't tried it since then, but the only reason I wanted to adjust mine was to get the airholes lined where I wanted em, but I found a fix since then. i'm sure pushing the +post moved mine a little.

why you got a topfeed?
 
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zmauls

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well, they are either screw or push fit, have you tried pushing down on the +post to get more overhang at the bottom, I tried to unscrew mine when I fist got it but same as you I couldn't budge it, all that happened was the head started deforming a little so haven't tried it since then, but the only reason I wanted to adjust mine was to get the airholes lined where I wanted em, but I found a fix since then.

why you got a topfeed?

That's a stock picture; mine's BF. I took a hammer and piece of rubber (to avoid damage) to the positive pin and it wouldn't budge that way either. I found a temporary fix by pushing the 510 connection in the Grand up as high as it can go before screwing in the atty, which has worked fine. I suppose at this point it's more a convenience issue.
 

Izan

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Yeah, threads...well... they are there, but you need to clamp the deck in a vise and then try to turn the post. If the insulator doesn't spin, the center post will thread out...eventually. It's a nightmare. (scratches and tool slips)
1.jpg

Best for me was pressing the post out, warm/heat the insulator and pry it off.
Put it together with a 2mm gap between the insulator and the center post "shoulder". Once pressed in, clamp the base and turn the post until the holes line up and you have the reveal you want.

Take it slow and you will be fine. Resist the urge to just "tap" it in a bit...:facepalm:

Have fun
I
 

Dconnor

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I modded my tf Cyclone to bf. the center pin is tough. I tapped the pin and insulator out using a light touch with a small hammer. The pin and insulator will come out. While the pin is threaded into the insulator, it is not really an adjustment IMO. Your center pin assembly may have pushed up some. You could try to tap the whole assembly down a tad. I would try that before messing with the pin in the Reo.
 

Chowderhead1972

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The center pin is threaded into the bushing. You will need to clamp the atty upside down and take a correctly sized screw driver and back out the screw until you coil holes are aligned properly. Should be a minimal amount ,1/16th of a turn? If you need more length than that provides you will have to back the pin out all the way past the threads and press out the pin, drive out the isolator, re-install the isolator, screw the pin back in until it bottoms in the insulator then press the pin and insulator back in TO THE PROPPER DEPTH.. The first time you do it is a pain but the second one and further become simple. I just went through this on the 4 I converted Friday. If you want, I will do it for you if you include a replacement isolator. Takes me ten minutes. The first one was a half hour of cussing. The second I laughed at how easy it was..
 

zmauls

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Put the hammer AWAY! You need a bench clamp or a C-clamp to hold the deck while twisting the screw. Holding the deck is not going to work. It will be tight. Offer is still open if you want me to do it, just pay for the return shipping. Check my feedback if you have doubts.

Nothing personal, Chowder. I like to do things myself so I have the know-how for the future. Precautionary measures, that's all. I was using a clamp, but not a good one. One of those hold-this-while-the-glue-dries clamps. I'll go get a new one tomorrow.
 

Chowderhead1972

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zmauls

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Here's a new development:

I just realized when I plug it into my ohm-reader it's way off. So, a new question, could this possibly be an issue other than the contact? I know that a bad contact will throw the ohm-reader off, but I'd like other people's input.

It's a 0.22Ω build. I know because I've been using this build for months. It's reading 0.49Ω on my reader.

My reader is reading my other atomizers correctly.

Hmm...

:confused:
 

Treebeard

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Here's a new development:

I just realized when I plug it into my ohm-reader it's way off. So, a new question, could this possibly be an issue other than the contact? I know that a bad contact will throw the ohm-reader off, but I'd like other people's input.

It's a 0.22Ω build. I know because I've been using this build for months. It's reading 0.49Ω on my reader.

My reader is reading my other atomizers correctly.

Hmm...

:confused:

Check for a tiny snippet of wire inside the post where it may have sheared off inside the post (as a result of tightening the screw down on the wire to capture it). This has happened to me before. It drove me crazy until I found the wire snippet and fished it out with magnetized wire.

adt: also check the negative post to be sure it isn't loose.
 
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Chowderhead1972

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Chowderhead72 what did you say you are using exclusively now since you've sold all your cyclones? Is there a thread where you describe what you are using and how you modded it???
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I switched to Atomic clones that I drilled out. Don't abandon the Cyclone yet, the Atomic has issues as well.
Atomic pro's
Looks awesome, proportionately perfect for the grand, big atty feel but you can still open the door both ways, Cheap

Atomic Con's
Made of lower quality steel (very noticeable when drilling), with coils of similar resistance to the Cyclone flavor and impact is significantly reduced (I chock this up to the size of the chamber much larger, the quantity of steel has a heat sinking effect reducing the efficiency of the provided power). On my Cyclones I was using 8 wraps@1.8mm of 28awg dual coil total res .585 ohms. To get a similar vape with the Atomic I have tried several builds all dual coil from .891 ohms to my current .368 ohm build which entails 6 wraps@ 1.8mm dual for .368 ohms. .4-.45 would be better. I'm currently getting dry hits if I don't squonk before every other vape.

Cyclone w/AFC pro's
Looks awesome, vapes better than any thing else I have ever used period. Taste so strong I had to cut my juice as much as 90% vg18mg to 10% juice.

Cyclone cons:
Cost and availability as well a popping and spitting juice.


I haven't given up yet and I am open to suggestions. So far I am glad I held back two Cyclone/AFC's but I am hopeful that I will find the right combination.
 

zmauls

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I've always loved my RM2's. The Cyclone was nice for a change. Needless to say, I'm using my RM2's again, and have no complaints. I never have, really. My drip tip did get super hot with the Cyclone, which was frustrating. My favorite things about the Cyclone were the ease of squonking with dual coils and the hot vape. The vape quickly tapered off, though, to that of an RM2 with a fresh battery. Only took about five minutes of chain vaping at 0.20Ω.

I've essentially given up on my Cyclone at this point. My Dibby OliveR will be here within a month and I plan on using an Origen V2 with that. I might buy a Cyclops for it too, but my current Cyclone has been a nightmare, so I won't be in any rush to spend more money on VA products.
 
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