I think my coils are pretty much as high as possible but I'll try. A shame 'cause I really would like to have my coils low :-/
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OBS Crius RTA?
- Thread starter Hightech Redneck
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Yeah, I'm starting to think that, though I manage to get make almost anything to leak. Perhaps I should get a clone and see if it works better...
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I got my Crius clone from FT today. I will post some pics in bit as well as put a build in it.
First impressions:
It's an impressive clone. With the exception of the laser etched "OBS" and "CRIUS" on the chimney, and painted ID on the bottom of the deck, it's a 1:1 clone. It even has the "up" logo at the fill port.
The other noteworthy difference is the insulator..... the clone has a plastic-type insulator, hopefully PEEK, but I have no way to tell. In this regard, it is an improvment over the authentic.
The 510 pin is press-fit, just like the authentic and is non- adjustable from what I can tell.
More to come......
First impressions:
It's an impressive clone. With the exception of the laser etched "OBS" and "CRIUS" on the chimney, and painted ID on the bottom of the deck, it's a 1:1 clone. It even has the "up" logo at the fill port.
The other noteworthy difference is the insulator..... the clone has a plastic-type insulator, hopefully PEEK, but I have no way to tell. In this regard, it is an improvment over the authentic.
The 510 pin is press-fit, just like the authentic and is non- adjustable from what I can tell.
More to come......
so far so good.
it works every bit as well as the authentic, and waaaaay better than my first one (which was defective and documented earlier in this thread)
The deck is tight. no jiggling, and no leaking. The afc and jfc have a nice and tight tension to them. they won't move accidently while in your pocket. So far, there is no leakage at the afc/jfc junction.
the chimney cap looks just a tad bit taller than the authentic, but i don't have a micrometer to tell exactly. the authentic chimney cap looks wider in the pic, but that's only because there was juice in it when I took the pic. I'm pretty sure they are the same size.
Now, the only con............
not all of my drip tips fit in the clone.
Most do fit, but the drip tips from my Bellus and Goliath v2 do not. those same drip fits DO fit in the authentic.
It's not a dealbreaker, but it should be noted.
Verdict....
If I could go back in time and choose the authentic or the clone.......I would take the clone.
It does everything the authentic does, plus it has a plastic (peek) insulator, and only cost $16.51 shipped from FT.
If it develops any leakage or problems, I will update.
it works every bit as well as the authentic, and waaaaay better than my first one (which was defective and documented earlier in this thread)
The deck is tight. no jiggling, and no leaking. The afc and jfc have a nice and tight tension to them. they won't move accidently while in your pocket. So far, there is no leakage at the afc/jfc junction.
the chimney cap looks just a tad bit taller than the authentic, but i don't have a micrometer to tell exactly. the authentic chimney cap looks wider in the pic, but that's only because there was juice in it when I took the pic. I'm pretty sure they are the same size.
Now, the only con............
not all of my drip tips fit in the clone.
Most do fit, but the drip tips from my Bellus and Goliath v2 do not. those same drip fits DO fit in the authentic.
It's not a dealbreaker, but it should be noted.
Verdict....
If I could go back in time and choose the authentic or the clone.......I would take the clone.
It does everything the authentic does, plus it has a plastic (peek) insulator, and only cost $16.51 shipped from FT.
If it develops any leakage or problems, I will update.
Very nice! It appears to be a good looking clone and I like the change to the peek insulator as well. I've actually grown to really like the DT on the Crius, so that's not a dealbreaker for me. Keep us updated on the performance!
I just got my clone from fasttech as well. I do not have an original to compare it to but it appears to be identical to the one that you posted. Overall I have to say it works pretty well but I do have to get the wicking down better. Leaking all over the place on me.
I cannot vouch for QC.
The authentic has horrendous QC, which lead me to the clone. hopefully your leaking problem is only user error, hertigg.
Is it leaking from the airholes, or the gap between the juice flow control and airflow control?
The authentic has horrendous QC, which lead me to the clone. hopefully your leaking problem is only user error, hertigg.
Is it leaking from the airholes, or the gap between the juice flow control and airflow control?
I'll post a pic later but right now I got like 7 wrap 2.4mm ID 24g SS316L spaced build in there running on my VTC mini and rx200 at like 520 F and 45 watts. My favorite build for it so far.
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It was 100% user error. I changed the wicking and it is working as intended now. Overall I am a little disappointed in this tank. It does not have the airflow that I was expecting. It is easy to build, has a great topfill mechanism, but the airflow is just not there. My main rebuildable that I use is the TFV4 and that has wuite a bit more airflow than this.
I raised my coils and initially I didn't get any leaking anymore. That lasted for less than a day, though I have less leakage now.
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What size coils you using? Too wide once cotton is added blocks Alot of airflow. I use 2.5.
Well my white crius decided to pee all over my mod today. Still not sure how but the glass broke with the tank about half full. Good thing it has extra. Oh well.
I'm not sure, if the base leaking issue, has already been discussed here. But I took mine apart and installed a small O-ring. My ceramic insulator was broken in multiple places and I made a new one out of delrin. I also cut M2.0 threads on the leg of the positive terminal and made a new brass positive pin with inner thread M2.0. This tank is becoming one of my favorite ones now.
How did you get it apart without breaking it, and how did you get it back together again?I'm not sure, if the base leaking issue, has already been discussed here. But I took mine apart and installed a small O-ring. My ceramic insulator was broken in multiple places and I made a new one out of delrin. I also cut M2.0 threads on the leg of the positive terminal and made a new brass positive pin with inner thread M2.0. This tank is becoming one of my favorite ones now.
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Getting is apart is easier then it looks: Take a small, thin kitchen knife, press firmly where you want to separate the base. Roll the base on wooden desk, applying more pressure to the knife. Like if you want to cut it in half. Then, replace the small knife, with a bigger one and keep rolling 360°. Then even bigger, thicker knife. Until the base comes apart completely. Putting it together is even easier: You could do it using a small, brass hammer or press it together between the jaws of a vise. I pressed it together using a little pressure of a drill press.
Here is a low quality, low light video in Russian. But you'll get the idea:
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