Odysseus official
- Thread starter imeothanasis
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I'm new to the gg world but I fell in love so I will be around asking questions hopefully no one cares.
Thanks best regards
Thanks best regards
Some added differences between the real Odysseus , because now the clone comes polished, is the base. On the genuine Ody the 510 is one solid piece of stainless steel. The Clone, even the Term/Naut is a 2 piece pressed together. If you take the part and look at it under a magnifying glass, you can see the joining at the center pin and rest of the base. A few have dropped thiers and the parts came apart. Also on the internals, the Clones are plated nickel over brass.
V1 Ody and Term /Naut are to the untrained eye almost identical when the clones are polished. SO buyer beware. Ive seen people selling off the clones of the Term/Nautilaus on the classifieds and the quality is really aparant , but still people dont know and are paying 50.00 or more for the cheap clone that sells for about 25.00.
V1 Ody and Term /Naut are to the untrained eye almost identical when the clones are polished. SO buyer beware. Ive seen people selling off the clones of the Term/Nautilaus on the classifieds and the quality is really aparant , but still people dont know and are paying 50.00 or more for the cheap clone that sells for about 25.00.
Thank you for the info anavidfan I looked and I have the real deal odd v2!!!! And I have to say I just set up my frist coil on it 4/4 wrap of a1 28 gauge!! And I'm in love thank you soon much Imeo this is the best hit I think I have ever hade
ithaka here I come I'm one the hunt for you lol!!!!!!!
ithaka here I come I'm one the hunt for you lol!!!!!!!
yes, I think thats what you mean, the center pin that runs down the center of ceramic and rebuildable unit is ss ,where as the clone is plated. Its well made, mind you. If the clones plating were cheaply done, it would be wearing off by now. Unless of course its not plated but just not the same quality stainless steel. Stainless steel is a combination of alloys. The standards of high quality vs low quality stainless steel is its strength and ability to withstand corrosion and chemical reactions.
Im sure youve all seen good kitchen knives. There are the ones that will cost you 100.00 for lets say a 10" blade and then you see some that sell for 20.00. Its the ratio of the alloys that make the difference in how long it stays sharp and the actual "stainless" part.
To be able to call something "stainless steel" means that a minimum of certain alloys have to be present and any larger amounts dictates the cost and quality.
Surgical grade stainless steel is the strongest and the most resistant to chemical reactions and porosity.
Im sure youve all seen good kitchen knives. There are the ones that will cost you 100.00 for lets say a 10" blade and then you see some that sell for 20.00. Its the ratio of the alloys that make the difference in how long it stays sharp and the actual "stainless" part.
To be able to call something "stainless steel" means that a minimum of certain alloys have to be present and any larger amounts dictates the cost and quality.
Surgical grade stainless steel is the strongest and the most resistant to chemical reactions and porosity.
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Im glad you are reassured, Most sellers are fellow GG enthusiasts and yes, some sell them off for prices that are way up there, but at least you make the decision, whether to buy it or not. They are discontinued and now considered an item that you can place a price gaged to what people are willing to pay.
But now with such perfect clones, and now that they are polished the people unfamiliar with those details might get duped by an unscrupulous seller. Nothing wrong with clones, really. Just dont sell them as the actual original. Just study what you buy and look up the seller and ask us here on the GG forum if anything looks suspicious. If the seller has a bad rep or has sold items not as described people here will certainly know them.
But now with such perfect clones, and now that they are polished the people unfamiliar with those details might get duped by an unscrupulous seller. Nothing wrong with clones, really. Just dont sell them as the actual original. Just study what you buy and look up the seller and ask us here on the GG forum if anything looks suspicious. If the seller has a bad rep or has sold items not as described people here will certainly know them.
Thanks for all the help guys and yes Imeo I have loved everything you made that I have touched. guru smoke is a certified dealer of your product as well right? I'm going to get and ithaka from them!!! Sucks with everything going on with Cov right now hopefully they get all that resolved
I just build my Ithaka and it is incredibly easy and effective
my Odys seem to have drips/leaks from the center post quite ofen using a 2.5 and 3mms wick but seems to be much better (no leaks) with 3.5mm wicks. I am going to replace the o-rings but I cannot figure out why I can't keep from leaking with the 2.5/3mm wicks. Any thoughts? O-rings maybe?
In my experience, Odysseus leaks through the center post when liquid travels by the ceramic channels to inside the ceramic cup, then it comes out through the center pin (center pin has a center hole where the air is feeded to the wick).
If there is not enough wick to fill the top of ceramic channels, liquid will freely flow to inside the ceramic cup, for example, I have an Odysseus V1 and I do not put wick in the ceramic channels but only at the top, I always make sure that I do not left a gap where the liquid could freely flow to inside the ceramic cup.
Maybe there could be a way to mod the ceramic cup (like Ithaka works), so the liquid that gets inside the ceramic cup, could come down to the little chamber (where the positive connection is made), that way the liquid will be absorved by the wick.
Another way would be to have the center pin longer (the part that goes inside ceramic cup), that way would be more difficult to the liquid to come out by the center pin.
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