- Status
now i need a LEXI , so i dont ever hae to worry about setting voltage on my ProVari, the LEXI , does it automaticaly, it reads the ohms and then adjusts the watage..
Well I was wondering what you meant.... HH357's are either 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, or 3.0 Ohms... not variable in one atomizer.
I'm hoping they post about it (The AMP) here...I want details and to know if it works for all atties, that would be huge...something I've been waiting for. Please post about it here.
As for cleaning, here's what works best for me....If you have a magnifying glass you can see how quickly these carbon up. I mean to the point you can't see the coil. Should look like a compressed bed spring, ends up looking like a black brick...lol.
Anyway, I get it back to spec resistance every time using the old ice machine cleaner phosphoric acid. Then I gently use a heavy gauge beveled syringe needle to scrape off the crap. Then I run it through this Cartomizer/Atomizer Cleaning Kit - With 10ml Control Syringe, Luer-lock compatible w/cleaning tubes and instructions. It's great for cleaning with warm water, both kinds of alcohol, the diluted phosphoric acid, etc....obviously with this method I would do a final distilled water rinse followed by isopropyl alcohol and a thorough dry before reprime and use.
The cleaning can take several cycles to loosen the crud enough to remove it all and you can even remove what's under the coil. But I must stress that you must be very careful or you will disconnect something and you'll have a dead atty.
So that's what I do, and I get back to spec every time. Keep in mind the darker, dirtier, more VG your juice is, the faster it will drop resistance and gunk up. Almost anything in the juice that doesn't vaporize will burn on the coil and turn to carbon. Initially I was ...... that a $25 atty would drop within a week but now that I know how to clean it, I realize it is a superior atty but very high maintenance. Peace Everybody.
PS: The acid will eventually remove the logo on the atty and the paint if you use anything but SS, so if that bugs you, don't use it.
As for cleaning, here's what works best for me....If you have a magnifying glass you can see how quickly these carbon up. I mean to the point you can't see the coil. Should look like a compressed bed spring, ends up looking like a black brick...lol.
Anyway, I get it back to spec resistance every time using the old ice machine cleaner phosphoric acid. Then I gently use a heavy gauge beveled syringe needle to scrape off the crap. Then I run it through this Cartomizer/Atomizer Cleaning Kit - With 10ml Control Syringe, Luer-lock compatible w/cleaning tubes and instructions. It's great for cleaning with warm water, both kinds of alcohol, the diluted phosphoric acid, etc....obviously with this method I would do a final distilled water rinse followed by isopropyl alcohol and a thorough dry before reprime and use.
The cleaning can take several cycles to loosen the crud enough to remove it all and you can even remove what's under the coil. But I must stress that you must be very careful or you will disconnect something and you'll have a dead atty.
So that's what I do, and I get back to spec every time. Keep in mind the darker, dirtier, more VG your juice is, the faster it will drop resistance and gunk up. Almost anything in the juice that doesn't vaporize will burn on the coil and turn to carbon. Initially I was ...... that a $25 atty would drop within a week but now that I know how to clean it, I realize it is a superior atty but very high maintenance. Peace Everybody.
PS: The acid will eventually remove the logo on the atty and the paint if you use anything but SS, so if that bugs you, don't use it.
Last edited:
Wow, that cleaning kit looks awesome! I always end up having my .357s die before they are so gunked up that I would need to scrape the junk off of the coil. It has to be a solder point that comes loose- it will not fire, so I tighten it a little and it works for a bit. But then it ceases to work altogether, and it meters as an open. This just happened to my custom blue long barrel
I think it is going to be a .357 tank, which leads me to believe for the HH only? Or maybe just 'optimized' for the HH? Just going on what I heard.
Stop dry vaping and learn to love a flooded .357.
As far as cleaning, I get the best flavor from a broken in but freshly cleaned .357. So it's only a day or two of use before I put mine in vodka and soak for an hour, (or longer if I forget.) blow it out gently from 510 end when removed. Prime with a little juice. I rotate all of my atomizers this way.
I have a couple that need to be rebuilt, but I've owned a couple of them since March.
Last edited:
I asked Hanna about it. The AMP tank is their new atty tank. Still unsure as to when it will be out. It was designed for the HH but I hear it will work for other attys. Cisco said on a phone interview that they would supply you with a tool to "help" an atomizer that would not normally work. Only time will tell if this will pan out that way. I know I look forward to having one. Saw it at Vapercon and it looks pretty cool.
Well Hanna was nice enough to send me an email, telling me to send in my 357 to try and have a look what's wrong with it. That's awesome. Good thing, because I love this atomizer. I miss it. Went to a friends house, whom has many different things to put my juice in, yet none of them can even touch the delicious vape I was getting from this atty.
Will send out tomorrow morning. Thanks Hanna.
Will send out tomorrow morning. Thanks Hanna.
Hanna is awesome, he has answered all sorts of questions I had, rebuilt a .357 for me, just overall has taken care of me. He(and avidvaper) will continue to get my business. Actually, just reminded myself to get over there and place an order. I need some more .357s, only one brand new HH left in my backup stash. I've also been meaning to try the 510H, which is a 901 atty with a 510 native connection. No more funky extenders and stuff to use a drip shield!
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
