Official DNA 40 introduction

[KTMRider]

Well, I have lots of batteries and they are cheap, so I will vape on of my 40's down to not firing and let you know what the voltage is. It should not be hard to figure out as many of us are using the chip. Sadly, I am fully charged atm, so it may take a day or so.

I've vaped down to the low battery warning many times and the lowest I've seen is 3.18v. Usually it's around 3.2v. Well within spec of any reliable battery.

Kiwi, I made what I thought was, a perfect nickel Micro (Contact) Coil. I dry burnet it - it glowed perfectly. I used it for three days and loved it. Until I started feeling some weird aftertaste. And sure enough, two of the middle wraps have shorted to each-other and fused together. Then I quit making Micro coils out of nickel. Just IMHO.

I tried dry burning a ni200 coil and it became very brittle and discolored. I didn't use it but just wanted to see what would happen to ni200 wire when you glow it.

 

[AMDTrucking]

Well let's hope the lady was wrong then

Regards
Tony

Ps: some reputable high end chargers will attempt a recovery charge if you ask them to. It takes hours (very small trickle charge to raise the battery to minimum levels and then a soft ramp up with a C/10 or C/25 charge to maximum capacity.

Even if recovered I wouldn't use a battery like that in important applications.

Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that

Tony, I'm now using my new Opus BT-C3400. It revived two of my, what other chargers told me, dead unrecoverable batteries. They are fully charged and hold almost nominal capacity.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

Tony, I'm now using my new Opus BT-C3400

Wow...just wow. I need that.

 

[KTMRider]

Wow...just wow. I need that.

I have a La Crosse BT-1000 that functions like that but it only does NiMH and NiCd . I already had a 18650 charger but wanted the display so I got a D2. I didn't even know about the Opus (maybe a good thing).

 

[Rossum]

hum...... this discussion is interesting and I am not seeing any factual and verified information yet about excessively low battery cut-off limits..... I mentioned the "battery drain" static test I started about 21 days ago.... ....a VTC5 battery was charged to 4.0 volts and installed in a dna40 device. The device was fired three times (in TP mode) to verify it was working..... device was set aside to check battery drain over long period of time without firing (only momentary hitting of the fire button every few days to look at the battery level)..... almost 21 days now and I checked the battery with a meter this afternoon (after this discussion started)...it was measured at 3.76 volts....so the "battery drain" test will continue....with the voltage drain to date it will be a long test if I let it get to 2.7 or 3.0 volts... yep, I was curious as to how long a battery would last in the 40 setting on the shelf and not being used....

Powering it up every few days isn't a true static test, since you're bumping the drain from micro-amps to milli-amps for an hour or or more every time you do that.

It would also be interesting to know what voltage that same VTC5 would be down to if it had been sitting there on the shelf without being installed in a mod at all..

 

[HolmanGT]

Powering it up every few days isn't a true static test, since you're bumping the drain from micro-amps to milli-amps for an hour or or more every time you do that.

It would also be interesting to know what voltage that same VTC5 would be down to if it had been sitting there on the shelf without being installed in a mod at all..

Rossum, it doesn't make any difference. If retird is going to let it sit until it completely discharges with a 25uA load none of us are going to live that long.

 

[retird]

Powering it up every few days isn't a true static test, since you're bumping the drain from micro-amps to milli-amps for an hour or or more every time you do that.

It would also be interesting to know what voltage that same VTC5 would be down to if it had been sitting there on the shelf without being installed in a mod at all..

yep... your are correct... not a true pure static test but for my purposes it's close enough to satisfy my curiosity....a few milli/micro's here and there....

 

[Rossum]

Rossum, it doesn't make any difference. If retird is going to let it sit until it completely discharges with a 25uA load none of us are going to live that long.

Once it powers down, it's actually under 5uA, I've measured that myself. I think that works out to ~23 years per 1000 mAh.

 

[retird]

Rossum, it doesn't make any difference. If retird is going to let it sit until it completely discharges with a 25uA load none of us are going to live that long.

Right on point.... was thinking along those lines also when the gal running the "torture test" posted " I'm repeating the test again, and this time I'll vape it until it no longer fires, and then abandon it for a few days without putting it on a charger, to see how fast it drains.".... lol

 

[HolmanGT]

Once it powers down, it's actually under 5uA, I've measured that myself. I think that works out to ~23 years per 1000 mAh.

OK - I am sure I won't be here. Actually I would like to know the answer to your pervious question how long will it last just sitting on a shelf? I have heard and read that L-ions shouldn't be left on the shelf at full charge due to some strange chemistry like it grows crystals that eventually kill the battery. The crystal thing may occur at the discharge level really can't remember.

I went to the "Battery University" site but couldn't find the answers I was looking for they changed their search engine (thought it not to like me) and all my searches came up with a gazillion references.

 

[Rossum]

Right, rechargeable lithium batteries prefer to be stored at around 40% charged; 3.6V is a good rule of thumb. I'm not sure anyone can really tell you what the "shelf-life" of a modern lithium battery is, if it's properly stored. They haven't been around that long. Properly stored would mean being kept at around 40%. They won't stay there if you just leave them sitting on a shelf. My sense is that batteries that aren't being used should be charged to between 3.6 and 3.7V every few months.

 

[HolmanGT]

Right, rechargeable lithium batteries prefer to be stored at around 40% charged; 3.6V is a good rule of thumb. I'm not sure anyone can really tell you what the "shelf-life" of a modern lithium battery is, if it's properly stored. They haven't been around that long. Properly stored would mean being kept at around 40%. They won't stay there if you just leave them sitting on a shelf. My sense is that batteries that aren't being used should be charged to between 3.6 and 3.7V every few months.

While Lithium batteries are cool they do have some storage issues. I don' t usually put much stock in anything Apple Inc. says but they recommend the best way to care for L-ions is to use them i.e. charge, use and repeat and never let them sit for long periods with no charge or full charge.

It is starting to sound like a good suggestion even if it did come from Apple. I know I am putting myself out on a limb with my negative attitude about Apple but then that seem to be my normal perch of late..

 

[TheKiwi]

Heheheheh so after months of .....ing about how the tiny airhole of the erlk is just not so good for Ni200 builds, I finally drilled the main hole out to 3/32, and drilled the 2 side holes out to 1/16 + widened it a little using a Dremel. Airflow is awesome now, and im the happiest bird. Flavor and vapor production is excellent, and now my vape off the erlk usin the same exact build doesn't have the same harshness and intensity anymore. Very pleased!


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[turbocad6]

curious to see if/how that affects the feed. it relies on vacuum to pull new juice out of the tank, now less restriction at the air inlet = less vacuum, thinking that just opening the juice feed a bit will compensate though

 

[sedge]

Evolv just posted the DNA 25 for sale at $40 on their site.

 

[TheKiwi]

curious to see if/how that affects the feed. it relies on vacuum to pull new juice out of the tank, now less restriction at the air inlet = less vacuum, thinking that just opening the juice feed a bit will compensate though

So far so good! I was a tad concerned about it initially, so I've been chain vaping it for the past 10 mins at 30 watts. Getting a terrible NIC buzz.

To be honest I think the concerns about opening up airflow is generally overstated. Generally people who are doing it, are doing so in order to take big lung inhales. I think the increase in air hole size is mitigated by the fact that the pull is stronger too.


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[Rossum]

Evolv just posted the DNA 25 for sale at $40 on their site.

No datasheet yet...?

 

[tchavei]

Question is why?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that

 

[Croak]

Question is why?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that

An answer for the Chinese knockoffs, and for the "masses" as well. Half the retail and wholesale price of a DNA 40 means you can potentially put these in sub-$75 or even $50 setups and make a profit.

Limited to 25w means you can safely run higher mAh but lower continuous amp rated 18650s, or just cheaper batteries safely. It out-does everything coming out of China except the SX350J in terms of features, including a very good step down (sort of a big deal for lower power vapers). Nickel wire disposable heads for most of the popular clearos are here or coming soon, and they're no more expensive to buy (or manufacture) than Kanthal coil heads.

So, the mass market is nearly ready for TC, but when the price of entry into the world of reputable branded mods with temp control was at least $189 (until the new Vaporshark DNA40 rolled out), temp control was far outside the mass market price points.

It'll also force Yihi to come out with an entry level TC board as well, and then Innokin, Joyetech/iLeaf and the others will have to respond, and of course the no-name DNA40 clone boards will have to get cheaper as well. Win/win/win/win

 

[BNEAT]

Right, rechargeable lithium batteries prefer to be stored at around 40% charged; 3.6V is a good rule of thumb. I'm not sure anyone can really tell you what the "shelf-life" of a modern lithium battery is, if it's properly stored. They haven't been around that long. Properly stored would mean being kept at around 40%. They won't stay there if you just leave them sitting on a shelf. My sense is that batteries that aren't being used should be charged to between 3.6 and 3.7V every few months.

So to be clear, the DNA40 will fire after the low battery warning, but that warning is consistent and somewhere around 3.2 volts? (I believe mine checked 3.18) After the low battery warning, doesn't it throttles back the power, so much so that there's no way you wouldn't realize what's going on? It's been a couple of months since I hit low bat, so I don't remember what it did, I just remember confirming what I believed to be safe functionality....but, see sig

Also, I have two sets of batteries for my Flask, but I haven't alternated them in several weeks. I keep the second set fully charged for back-ups, so would swapping them every week or two be a good idea? I do know enough to keep them in pairs, but that's about all I know. Again, see sig.

You have nothing to worry about IMO unless you are leaving charging batteries unattended

I wasn't trying to be a wise-guy. You seem to be in-the-know when it comes to all things Evolv, so when you said I had nothing to worry about, I simply wanted to know what you knew: what your opinion was based on.