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I bought myself a Protovapor this morning. I'll be your guinea pig.Love the idea of the dna40, but not a fan of box mods
Just placed my order. Hope you sell a zillon but ship mine first! /lol
Don't be bashful. See ---> XPV DNA-40D with Temperature Protection | Protovapor.com
Thoughts on my order:
- Site was responding in a satisfactory manner
- Love the inclusion of a bat to add to my collection
- Email confirm was instant
- CC charge was instant
- Reasonably priced. Actually cheaper than others I looked at
- Included/purchase of the Ni200 is great so I can be up and running FAST. I better get 100 feet to experiment from ??? /lol
- XPV mods are covered by a 90 day warranty on workmanship. Internal components including the DNA-40D are covered for 1 year.
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Just placed my order. Hope you sell a zillon but ship mine first! /lol
Don't be bashful. See ---> XPV DNA-40D with Temperature Protection | Protovapor.com
Thoughts on my order:
- Site was responding in a satisfactory manner
- Love the inclusion of a bat to add to my collection
- Email confirm was instant
- CC charge was instant
- Reasonably priced. Actually cheaper than others I looked at
- Included/purchase of the Ni200 is great so I can be up and running FAST. I better get 100 feet to experiment from ??? /lol
- XPV mods are covered by a 90 day warranty on workmanship. Internal components including the DNA-40D are covered for 1 year.
I ordered mine earlier today. Can't wait!
One issue still has me confused with the DNA40 devices. I've tried to read a few threads so please excuse me if this has already been posted.
Obviously I want to use the Ni200 wire for temperature control. What is not clear to me is exactly what final resistance in my KF builds will occur using the Ni200 wire?? It's beyond my pay grade to grasp all the other details so let me ask the question another way:
My single coil KF builds are all 6 wraps (ID about 3MM) using 28 gauge Kanthal and that gives me around 1.4 which is about the sweet spot for KFs if you chase flavor like I do. That's what I want using Ni200
Using Ni200 would I use the same number of wraps in my case with 28 gauge? Maybe more or less to equal my desired resistance??? Maybe Mike or one of the other Beta geeks can help with some guidance? I certainly don't mind some trial and error. It's actually fun but guidance would help me?
Finally, where the heck can I get a 100 feet of this Ni200 stuff with link? Last time I looked they had different kinds of nickel wire (not gauge) so just tell me where please and a link?
Obviously I want to use the Ni200 wire for temperature control. What is not clear to me is exactly what final resistance in my KF builds will occur using the Ni200 wire?? It's beyond my pay grade to grasp all the other details so let me ask the question another way:
My single coil KF builds are all 6 wraps (ID about 3MM) using 28 gauge Kanthal and that gives me around 1.4 which is about the sweet spot for KFs if you chase flavor like I do. That's what I want using Ni200
Using Ni200 would I use the same number of wraps in my case with 28 gauge? Maybe more or less to equal my desired resistance??? Maybe Mike or one of the other Beta geeks can help with some guidance? I certainly don't mind some trial and error. It's actually fun but guidance would help me?
Finally, where the heck can I get a 100 feet of this Ni200 stuff with link? Last time I looked they had different kinds of nickel wire (not gauge) so just tell me where please and a link?
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My sense of this is you're going to want thinner wire (30 or 32 gauge) and you're going to need to use more wraps. You'll still end up with a much lower resistance (particularly when the Ni200 is cold) but the DNA40 will be OK with that.
Pure Nickel Non Resistance Wire | Lightning Vapes
Don't buy under 100 ft of 30 gauge from here. 50 feet is $18, but 100 feet is $7.75.
Or
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Light...5&sr=8-1&keywords=lightning+vapes+nickel+wire
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For the DNA 40 the resistance range for Ni200 is .10 to 1.0 Ohm. If you use Kanthal, forgoing the temperature function, you can go .16 to 2.0 Ohm. As far as how many wraps of Ni200 = .10 to 1.0 Ohm, I am not sure. I assume some of the beta testers can give you a better idea on that. I, however, plan to just wrap until I get there
Looks like the Vapor Flask DNA 40 is going on sale at 4 EST today. http://www.vapinart.com/cart/Search.aspx?k=dna+40
More coil surface area = more flavor and more vapor---is my understanding. This is about higher resistance, more current and more surface area and temp control using the ni200. Use thinner wire and get as many wraps in as you can toward 2.0ohms. Put as much safe current on it as you possibly can.
Or do what you like to do
Or do what you like to do
I just ordered a protovapor xpv with DNA 40.....
(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
I assume Brandon is the owner/CEO/whatever for Evolv. This PBusardo video introducing the 40 is prime example why certain people should NEVER be the "front man" for a product. This guy belongs on a drafting table with a chalk board behind him...Just terrible.
PBusardo is your classic front man. In the video you can just see Pete trying to cajole and encourage this engineer on to sell his product. Pete's battery has 4.2Volts constant...Brandon is running dangerously below 3volts. It was hard to watch and the sound on Brandon's mic was terrible added to his mumbling and murmuring...
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Interesting....same price as the DNA 30 version...flasks are pricy.
(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
I for one want to give a big thank you to Evolv, the beta testers and Phil Busardo. Well done. Can't wait to get one.
And once again I will be concentrating on my coil builds and wicking technique to maximize surface area and juice flow without having to worry about burning my juice and all that implies. And even though kanthal versus nickel is apples and oranges, I find it ironic that Ill be sub-ohming for safety. Actually it will be really low sub-ohming, call it deci-ohming or centi-ohming LOL!
Kudos to Evolv, from my point of view, you really hit the nail squarely on the head. This is a solid, innovative, positive step in the right direction. I look forward to your future innovations.
Thank you.
Volume == Power || Taste == Temperature
And once again I will be concentrating on my coil builds and wicking technique to maximize surface area and juice flow without having to worry about burning my juice and all that implies. And even though kanthal versus nickel is apples and oranges, I find it ironic that Ill be sub-ohming for safety. Actually it will be really low sub-ohming, call it deci-ohming or centi-ohming LOL!
Kudos to Evolv, from my point of view, you really hit the nail squarely on the head. This is a solid, innovative, positive step in the right direction. I look forward to your future innovations.
Thank you.
Volume == Power || Taste == Temperature
Right, they should have gotten a proper pitchman on there to hawk it.
Except they don't need to. I know from first-hand experience that if you build a better mousetrap, the world really will beat a path to your door.
I appreciated what Brandon had to say though I had to raise volume so high to hear him that when Phil talked, the house shook and it woke up my wife that was sleeping on the other end of the house 90 feet away LOL. Ah well no big thing, but next time Phil might consider putting his guest closest to the microphone LOL.
Thanks for the tip. Scored one. Was easier than my first one.
thanks Gerhart...me too. I thought it was going to be another "unobtanium".
I know the v2 just came out, and that may have slowed sales down? We'll see how fast these go, but I am stoked!
Actually I think you're probably only sub-ohming on each draw for the few milliseconds (or whatever) while the nickel heats up and the resistance immediately follows. Unless maybe if you've built a really short or extra-low gauge coil, or some combination thereof.
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