I know right!? But they sure are nice looking.
How is it for a left hander? I mean I'm ambidextrous but I tend to vape lefty.
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How is it for a left hander? I mean I'm ambidextrous but I tend to vape lefty.
Does anyone know if you need to torch the nickel like we did with the kanthal?
Hmmm... what we might want are probes with thermally insulated grips so we can check the resistance when we're putting current through the coil, since that's what it's spending most of its time at while we're vaping. (Hmmm... did I just say "what *we* might want"? It sounds like I've decided to get one. I dunno, I'll see how things settle out. Wonder how long I can hold out?
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Here's what Uncle Phil had to say about it:
It was one of his few complaints about it.
i heard blue flame to get impurities off only... i think form mike p.
i figure it would take me another lifetime to learn how to mod any one of the form factors to do it myself, and that ain't gonna happen, i rather throw the extra hundred at them and start building ni200 coils instead.
Oh, and speaking of the DNA 40s and the temperature control study, the crowd-funding thread concerning the study updated this morning. See update 2.
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/e-cigarette-research-temperature-of-evaporation#home
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/e-cigarette-research-temperature-of-evaporation#home
I'm wondering both about possible performance issues or health risks from heating ni200 red hot. To those who have been using ni200 coils, have you found any issue with dry burning them in order to clean off gunk? Has there been any warning from evolv to not dry burn ni200 wire?
It's recommended not to. That's safest. They recommend cleaning with a surfactant like simple green but now that I think of it, I wonder if that just meant prior to use?
I'm finding that it's actually not a good idea to dry burn ANY coil.
Interesting I know from personal experience that if you don't put a blue flame to Kanthal you will get a metallic taste on the first several puffs and thats after I have rinsed them in gin. I don't dry burn on the atty though.
Why is that? I have to admit, I dry burn my coil every time I change my wick.
Ordered boards from vapedojo and already have a shipping email notice.
Too funny, I ordered a red XPV LOL.
I vape extracted tobaccos which gunk things up, so my option is dry burn or build a new coil daily. I'm hoping that even if it's recommended to not dry burn ni200, doing so doesn't pose a greater risk than dry burning Kanthal, which I already do knowing there may be a small, though unknowable, risk to that practice. Anybody know of info saying it may be MORE dangerous to dry burn ni200 than Kanthal and why?
Even better of course will be a way discovered to clean off carbon buildup without dry burning. Until that happens, it's kind of important for me to be able to dry burn without TOO much risk.
Metal oxidation, fatigue and/or pitting. Basically leads to the potential for particulates in the vapor, which is bad.
I honestly don't have a good answer for you. I think both should not be done, and I am going to stop the practice. I will see if I can come up with a satisfactory method.
One thing that helps is with NET juices, temp controlled coils gunk up less. Coils in general seem to last longer.
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Just thinking outloud, if you were to set the temperature below the point where your extracted tobaccos turn to carbon then there wont be any buildup.
I can understand that but if you can taste metal like with kanthal without torching it first then I would think you are getting a lot more metal than torching it first and not tasting it. Make sense? If you can taste it then it has to be a fairly high ppm wouldn't you think?
It's most likely the machine oil used in the manufacturing process.
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