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This would be day 3 in my journey and I have questions:
1. What is the purpose of turning OFF temperature control?
2. Under what very specific circumstances should TC be turned off?
I'm asking because I tried it twice and it was not pretty! Magma dripper with a yummy yummy Ni200 build using Eko. vaping away with this topper installed on my device. OK lets experiment and I turned off TC while the topper was still installed on the mod. Fire and suck. Harsh yuky burned el crap o. Resistance bouncing around like a basketball.
Thanks in advance for your help
If the board fails to automatically register a non-temperature coil for whatever reason, or you choose to only use non-temperature coils for whatever reason, that would be a time to turn TP off.
oh yeah absolutely... i have 5 devices going at all times... similar but different juices in each.
Now with the dna and what I absolutely LOVE about them... even the 20, you got low watts but high voltages.... I don't remember how high the 20 goes but the 30 has up to what 9 volts?
ok, thin wire, LR resistances; 1 to 2 ohms, kanthal or nichrome 30g will do, micro coil (contact), and hit it with 5 to 8 volts (set your watts to get that voltage)....
the thin wire at LR resistances give you decent surface length, and will cool down better than thick wires, so tons of vapor and flavor. No burning juice and wick as will too often happen with 26g wire. Also you get less wear on batts as the Amps and watts stay low.
I have a high watt Raptor 120w box, but the voltage maxes at only 6v... vs. the DNA which has lower watts but higher voltage.
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And my post was directly after this..sorry I didn't quote..but don't find it necessary if it's immediately after said post..
So, if you do that and your cotton wicking runs dry, you will burn the cotton because the device will get you exactly what you ask for and use all of the wattage you tell it to to get you there.
We still need to know what temperature at which bad things happen.
I set the temp way up and hated the vape...just me but it was far too warm and sticky for me. I set at 400 because I know that cotton burns at 410...I don't ever want a burnt cotton taste so my personal favorite limiter is 400 degrees....if I used rayon I could set it higher... and silica...not sure.
So it's day two on this build and time to examine the patient. 14/15 wraps using 28 Gauge Ni200 with an ID of 3MM and Eko. That's a Magma. Vapes great. Just the way it should and has been consistent for the last two days. Juice is Halo Southern Classic 6MG 50/50 and this juice is NOT a gunker. All of these pics are the same build just trying to capture the coil:
Notice the wraps on either end of the coil are still "clean" silver color like. Why? What does this indicate or is it normall behavior for Ni200? It certainly doesn't happen with Kanthal.
Notice the wraps on either end of the coil are still "clean" silver color like. Why? What does this indicate or is it normall behavior for Ni200? It certainly doesn't happen with Kanthal.
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The juice isn't burning on the coils it's just evaporating... Also spaced coils get less gunky than touching coils
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Maybe I misunderstand you but I thought it was in response to the previous post. It sounded like some try to stop vaping as soon as the temp control kicks in, not sure if I understood this right but you don't need to stop. You can just keep on vaping even though the DNA shows a the temp control message. It's not a warning message. It just means you are vaping at the maximum your build is able to but still safe.
Again if I'm just being dense but not flavorful in understanding you, my apologies
Thanks. Makes perfect sense.
So that's a good thing! WOW. This build probably has over 25 ML through it and yet those coils on the end look almost brand new or barely used. EDIT: You can see the gradual progression of darkness of the coils starting from the middle of the coil and then the coils get lighter and lighter. This might be an indication that Ni200 is less susceptible to gunk me up. That's also a good thing and might also indicate the wicks last longer.
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That's a rather long coil. Maybe the center isn't getting enough juice and therefor gets hotter than the end? The DNA40 only takes the average. I'm be curious if gunk on the coils will wash off easily under water.
I think overall some may miss the point. When you set the temp the watts will work as hard as they need to up to the limit you set to get the coil to that temp. You can still burn stuff if you set the temp too high for your wick and let the wick run dry.
So if you set 40 watts and 550 degrees...it will only fire up to 40 watts (not a consistent 40 watts) as long as it needs to to get the coil to 550 and maintain it there while you are drawing.
Nonetheless, if your RBA or dripper runs out of juice a cotton wick will still burn at 550 F degrees. I think the pbusardo vid makes reference to someone taking pics of dry cotton at different temps and the color of the cotton from pure white to brownish. Cotton does not self-ignite until 764 degrees F, so it will never disintegrate totally (DNA40 temp limit is 600 degrees F) but it will brown, which indicates smoldering.
So the device is smart but it is not reading wick material, it is reading your nickel coil temp.
So if you set 40 watts and 550 degrees...it will only fire up to 40 watts (not a consistent 40 watts) as long as it needs to to get the coil to 550 and maintain it there while you are drawing.
Nonetheless, if your RBA or dripper runs out of juice a cotton wick will still burn at 550 F degrees. I think the pbusardo vid makes reference to someone taking pics of dry cotton at different temps and the color of the cotton from pure white to brownish. Cotton does not self-ignite until 764 degrees F, so it will never disintegrate totally (DNA40 temp limit is 600 degrees F) but it will brown, which indicates smoldering.
So the device is smart but it is not reading wick material, it is reading your nickel coil temp.
Sorry...correction: The build in my coil pics above has only had about 8ML consumed. My bad. I'm going to look at it in a few days and then clean it to see how the coil and wick look after the clean.
This is right before the wicks are dry...I think you'll be ok...
While this is 50 Watts...it gives you an idea of a fully saturated wick..
I didn't read the other response..too many circles..
This is right before the wicks are dry...I think you'll be ok...
While this is 50 Watts...it gives you an idea of a fully saturated wick..
I didn't read the other response..too many circles..
That's cool did you measure it yourself? Is the temp set for 600?
I am aiming for no red at all...and I like a cooler vape anyway...The beauty of temp control...have it your way...kind of like Burger King...LOL
I only own an IPV2. . I just have started evaluating this because of another forum has several that balk at the idea...and this one has many that are interested in this.
I may not have a DNA mod, but I can at least help understanding the difference...look at my posts in the evolv tech and owners thread..
I may not have a DNA mod, but I can at least help understanding the difference...look at my posts in the evolv tech and owners thread..
OK..I'll check them out. I am sitting here vaping on the DNA 40 XPV...you should build or pick up a mod with the DNA40...you will love it!
This forum has had quite a few balk as well, but once the reality of what it does became known, they seem to have mostly disappeared.
BTW that video generated by folks associated with that other forum ... THE most ignorant thing I have seen in a long, long time. It was god-awfully bad.
That FLIR shows exactly why temperature control is the way of the future ... IMO
oh one more thing: it's useful to see what's going on with various coils and the DNA's regulation because it displays real-time ohms, volts and watts. So if you fire a nickel coil on non-temp mode, you can watch the resistance rise and the board compensate.
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