Official DNA 40 introduction

[HolmanGT]

Greetings fellow dna 40 users,

I'm hoping I'm not the only one who's having this type of issue:

I'm using a hana modz with a dna 40 and initially built a .19 ohm NI contact coil with 28 GA wire with about 11 wraps (there was a hot spot but fixed it with ceramic tweezers when building). Initially the TC was working perfect but after a couple of hours it reverted back to volts and mainly stays there. The ohms now shows .44 ohms and every now and then the TC will come back on and I've seen the ohms go back to .28 ohms?

I'm not really sure why this is happening. I'm using a Russian v2.0. I don't get any harsh taste and when the TC kicks in the temperature doesn't go above 250 or so. I have it set at 9.5 watts.

Thanks for any help and info as I just want to make sure I don't have a faulty chip/mod.

ED-209,

You may not be making a good 510 connection. There are several post about the Hana DNA-40 510 connector not making any connection and/or a poor connection.

And I agree with whomever posted the fact that your resistance sound sounds high for the number of wraps you used another indicator of a weak 510 connection.

 

[SeniorBoy]

Seniorboy, I've heard from several people that lightning vapes gets their wire from China, can anyone confirm this hearsay bs?

Temco is cheaper.. I'll just buy from the people that created most new resistance wire.

Wish I could help but I have no clue where the source is for the Lightning Vapes Ni. I've not used any of his 28 gauge yet as I got some with with my XPV 40 and ordered a little extra with it. I see he is already sold out on eBay so I suggest if you haven't already stock up with at least 100 feet from your fav source.

 

[DejayRezme]

I'm using a Hana Modz with a DNA 40 and initially built a .19 ohm NI contact coil with 28 GA wire with about 11 wraps (there was a hot spot but fixed it with ceramic tweezers when building). Initially the TC was working perfect but after a couple of hours it reverted back to volts and mainly stays there. The ohms now shows .44 ohms and every now and then the TC will come back on and I've seen the ohms go back to .28 ohms?

That definitely sounds like a connection problem, either with your 510 or with the wire wrapped around the posts. That can throw off the temperature protection. I sometimes have to tighten the screws on my magma again, when my base resistance creeps up to 0.11 and then it goes down to 0.10 ohm. With 0.11 the temperature control doesn't work correctly.

It's been recommended to wrap wire around the screw instead of using post holes.

Maybe there is a way or trick to improve through post hole connection?

 

[suspectK]

Edit-
SB, I don't know either...but I mean, temco made it. Do they just buy in bulk from temco? Or is it a clone?lol-

Best prices I've found for wire has been on Amazon and eBay and sold mainly by 2 vendors, Lightning Vapes and Temco. LV is cheaper if you buy from eBay or Amazon, usually. Much more on their commercial site. I have wire from both and I haven't noticed a difference in wires. I got 100' of 30g Ni200 (Pure Nickel) from LV thru eBay for $5.80 shipped.

Yeah..been a while since I actually ordered wire, but when I bought base, I could've sworn that temco was cheaper from one place. . I was ...... cuz it didn't apply to free shipping..I needed a guitar cable anyways, and it is the best I've seen, and real cheap.

I'm going to do some research with titanium.. I've been using it for another application.

But I will use nickel -edit delete also... titanium will be used for something else, not eliquid..

 

[HolmanGT]

I am going to post these again just because I think they are great and some may not have seen the original posts.


Basic Ni200 Micro Coil Build for DNA40 Devices - YouTube

A PBusardo Review - The Squape Reloaded by StattQualm Using Ni200 - YouTube


I sure hope this gives everyone the confidence that the DNA 40 really works as advertised. I know it helped me calm down quite a bit.

 

[peraspera]

Thanks. Nice presentation. He turns TC off and then fires the coil till its red to reshape. Only problem is after this the coil needs to cool to room temp before use and I doubt I have the patience for that. /lol

Here is Phils vid and he uses Ni200 + the Flask. It's a review of the Squape Reloaded and an interesting comparison between the two. I personally favor Phils method but I'm really not 100% sure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7i_6vSEMpcI

Seemingly nichrome can be heat tempered as torching the wire before wrapping makes the wire stiffer and firing a Nichrome coil red after hardens it so the coils don't deform with wicking. However, it doesn't seem that Ni200 can be heat tempered according to this Ulbrich Ni200 datasheet.

Nickel 200 is not recommended for service above 600°F (316°C) because long-time exposures in the 800°F to 1200°F range result in precipitation of a carbon containing phase and loss of ductility.
...
Properties: Tempered
Nickel 200 can be cold rolled to various tempers. Contact Ulbrich Technical Service for additional information
...
Heat Treatment
Nickel 200 is non hardenable by heat treatment.

Heat will soften metal but since it doesn't seem possible to heat temper Ni200 compressing coils may not need any more heat than what one can achieve with temperature limiting turned on. Phil's build starts at about 12:30 in and he seems to be able to do a good job of compressing his coil in the video starting at 14:57 with temperature limiting set at 400°.

 

[Heespharm]

Seemingly nichrome can be heat tempered as torching the wire before wrapping makes the wire stiffer and firing a Nichrome coil red after hardens it so the coils don't deform with wicking. However, it doesn't seem that Ni200 can be heat tempered according to this Ulbrich Ni200 datasheet.

Nickel 200 is not recommended for service above 600°F (316°C) because long-time exposures in the 800°F to 1200°F range result in precipitation of a carbon containing phase and loss of ductility.
...
Properties: Tempered
Nickel 200 can be cold rolled to various tempers. Contact Ulbrich Technical Service for additional information
...
Heat Treatment
Nickel 200 is non hardenable by heat treatment.

Heat will soften metal but since it doesn't seem possible to heat temper Ni200 compressing coils may not need any more heat than what one can achieve with temperature limiting turned on. Phil's build starts at about 12:30 in and he seems to be able to do a good job of compressing his coil in the video starting at 14:57 with temperature limiting set at 400°.

Thanks for that ... Maybe someone could try to set it to 600 that should hear the nickel enough to make it easier to compress


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[ukeman]

Given that we are now building significantly bigger coils for the same gauge size, is anyone finding that they need to crank up the wattage noticeable? Still waiting for my mod to come in. But just wondering if that's smth people are experiencing. 28ga, 11 - 13 wraps around 3mm is a massive coil and a whole lot of wire mass :O
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IMO yes AND no to that question:
I notice that a smaller ID coil (2mm) can get nice and zippy (using single coil only so far) when you try to set for maximum reponse and vapor. (490 to 520).

But the with a 3mm coil the vapor is denser right off the batt, and at moderate temp (430 for me) you get a decent amount of vapor, on the cool side, safe for the coil.

Either one I have to crank the Temp up to get the most performance (comparable to a kanthal vape) and the 3mm with a .20 or more ohms at 480, 500, or more degrees.
Right now using the 3mm wick and .22 ohms I like the wider coil:
Even set at 40w it will only hit that wattage (40w) a split second as it mostly fires much lower wattage to maintain that 500, 510, 520 degrees.
At 40w and 500 degrees the wattage stays at 10 to 15w most of the time if you fire for more than a few seconds per draw.

IMO its the temp setting that determines the performance (burning point of wick notwithstanding... hmm maybe eko or nextel wick for higher temps --- unless its the juices boiling point that we should be worried about.)

 

[HolmanGT]

ukeman,

"juices boiling point that we should be worried about" I believe that is the whole point of temperature control is you don't want the juice to burn. Burning the juice is what produced all the harmful chemicals like formaldehyde. If you let a wick go dry and burn or scorch it is easy enough to replace.

But without temp control you stand a good chance of inhaling a lot of burnt juice byproducts.

Of course if you can be content with running at temps that don't burn the juice and the wick, well... Eureka - Vapor Heaven.

 

[KTMRider]

Wish I could help but I have no clue where the source is for the Lightning Vapes Ni. I've not used any of his 28 gauge yet as I got some with with my XPV 40 and ordered a little extra with it. I see he is already sold out on eBay so I suggest if you haven't already stock up with at least 100 feet from your fav source.

28g is out of stock until next week.

Pure Nickel Wire 28 Gauge AWG NI200 100' 100ft Non Resistance | eBay
Pure Nickel Wire 30 Gauge AWG NI200 100' 100ft Non Resistance | eBay
Pure Nickel Wire 32 Gauge AWG NI200 100' 100ft Non Resistance | eBay

$7.50 on their site, $5.80 on eBay. (free shipping)

 

[Heespharm]

28g is out of stock until next week.

Pure Nickel Wire 28 Gauge AWG NI200 100' 100ft Non Resistance | eBay
Pure Nickel Wire 30 Gauge AWG NI200 100' 100ft Non Resistance | eBay
Pure Nickel Wire 32 Gauge AWG NI200 100' 100ft Non Resistance | eBay

$7.50 on their site, $5.80 on eBay. (free shipping)

That's why I ordered wire the day of the announcement... I knew I would be upgrading and figured the wire would go out of stock


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[TheKiwi]

Interestingly, smoktech actually has the BEC mod out that claims to have temp control too.

I wonder if it actually works. Hmm


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[npalmy]

Just spent the last hour or so reading this thread....looking at the videos...Thanks to all who contributed now I understand (my brain was stuck on Kanthal) and I am going to build me some Ni coils for my new Flask DNA 40. I just love ECF.

 

[DejayRezme]

I wonder if someone is going to bring a higher grade purity nickel wire to market, and if people would buy / pay more for it?

Not that I think there is any reason to worry, but the question about "should I dry burn it or not" brought me back to the question of the purity. I have no clue if the maximum allowed stuff in the temco Ni200 wire is a problem. Or if the nickel wire we get is "clean" or slightly coated by some lubricant from spooling it or something.

99% Nickel at minimum. At maximum, it can contain: 0.15% Carbon, 0.25% Copper, 0.4% Iron, 0.35% Magnesium, 0.35% Silicon, and 0.01% Sulphur.

I doubt it would actually reach 0.25% copper but this could potentially be a problem?

Besides Ni200 nickel wire there is Nickel 200 Nickel 201 Nickel 205 Nickel 233 and Nickel 270 at about 99.97% purity.

There is some high grade 99.98% nickel wire available here, 0.25mm diameter (AWG30) only 403.00€ for 500m. The 99.99+% variant costs a bit more at about at about 46€ per meter!


PS: Is it possible that the smoktech BEC simply has a menu option for "max allowed chip temperature"? The evic supreme also has that and shows the chip temp.

 

[Heespharm]

Interestingly, smoktech actually has the BEC mod out that claims to have temp control too.

I wonder if it actually works. Hmm


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That's just chip temp and its a warning not a cut off


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[HolmanGT]

I wonder if someone is going to bring a higher grade purity nickel wire to market, and if people would buy / pay more for it?

Not that I think there is any reason to worry, but the question about "should I dry burn it or not" brought me back to the question of the purity. I have no clue if the maximum allowed stuff in the temco Ni200 wire is a problem. Or if the nickel wire we get is "clean" or slightly coated by some lubricant from spooling it or something.

99% Nickel at minimum. At maximum, it can contain: 0.15% Carbon, 0.25% Copper, 0.4% Iron, 0.35% Magnesium, 0.35% Silicon, and 0.01% Sulphur.

I doubt it would actually reach 0.25% copper but this could potentially be a problem?

Besides Ni200 nickel wire there is Nickel 200 Nickel 201 Nickel 205 Nickel 233 and Nickel 270 at about 99.97% purity.

There is some high grade 99.98% nickel wire available here, 0.25mm diameter (AWG30) only 403.00€ for 500m. The 99.99+% variant costs a bit more at about at about 46€ per meter!


PS: Is it possible that the smoktech BEC simply has a menu option for "max allowed chip temperature"? The evic supreme also has that and shows the chip temp.

The problem with Nickel isn't the impurities it is the Nickel.

Google Nickel Toxicity and you will see in can be very hazardous if you consume enough of it. You will also find that some scientists believe it is required by the human body for life.

You be the judge.

It is my own personal belief that you will never consume enough nickel to harm yourself by vaping, torching or dry firing the stuff.

As far as cleanliness of the wire I believe Lighting Vapor suggest at the minimum you clean the wire with a solvent and then rinse and dry before use.

 

[TheKiwi]

That's just chip temp and its a warning not a cut off


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Oh. Well that makes a huge difference.


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[EuroChris]

My Pipeline Pros have temperature protection, but it's nothing like this. You can set the intervals for off/on when firing. It works pretty nice, still.

 

[suspectK]

Obviously, more than just evolv has been working on this tech... I forget the equipment I've ran into in the past(~4years ago) that has used it..

Do you know if it functions purely with kanthal? @TheKiwi

PM me when you get some time.

Edit-spaced out for too long.. forget what I was going to saylol

 

[want to quit]

Ok folks a few pros and some questions yet again.

Finally was able to set up a few nice coils after my initial first kayfun build. The next one was a 3mm ID coil at .23ohm 30g wire. Vapes fantastic all well and even more amazing I finally got my Veritas to work. I did had to heat up the coil to tweak it a bit but I can finally vape that thing with nickel so a huge success for me there lol.

Now a maybe stupid question but I had to ask. At first I assumed the DNA40 would be strictly there to A. not burn our wicking material and B. not broil our e liquid. Now, if I set my coil to 480F to not always hit the temp limit my cotton would still burn if the atty would be totally dry. So really it's more for the point of not broiling our liquid than burning our wick.

I am just asking because if I set my flask to 400F I always hit that temp limit and the mod acts up. So I really have to set it way higher which is fine as long as the wick stays wet.

Maybe I am totally off here but comments would be appreciated.