Official DNA 40 introduction

[dr g]

The problem with Nickel isn't the impurities it is the Nickel.

Google Nickel Toxicity and you will see in can be very hazardous if you consume enough of it. You will also find that some scientists believe it is required by the human body for life.

You be the judge.

It is my own personal belief that you will never consume enough nickel to harm yourself by vaping, torching or dry firing the stuff.

As far as cleanliness of the wire I believe Lighting Vapor suggest at the minimum you clean the wire with a solvent and then rinse and dry before use.

Correct, for all intents and purposes Ni200 is pure nickel.

The health concerns are: certain nickel compounds, and nickel metal particulates.

The most dangerous are nickel compounds like nickel carbonyl, nickel chloride, nickel sulfide, nickel acetate, etc.
The less dangerous are solid metal particulates and basic nickel oxide, which is what can form when nickel metal is heated past 700 degrees f (glowing coils).
The least dangerous is solid metal mass like nickel wire itself.

We have no evidence that nickel particulate enters the vapor stream. We have no evidence that nickel oxide enters the vapor stream.

 

[Budared]

I have a question about the wire for build coil on dna 40. I understand that in order to benefit from temperature control, i must use Ni200.
I search on Europe store, but not find it. But i find Nickel Wire or Pure Nickel (99.5 %) - no resistance with is in Non Resistance Wire category.
So, Ni200 is the same as Nickel Wire or Pure Nickel (99.5 %) - no resistance?
Can I use Nickel Wire or Pure Nickel (99.5 %) - no resistance instead of Ni200?

I had the same question and the Vape Mesh Company advised me not to buy their pure nickel as they would not be able guarantee the results. However they have now released their first NI200 wires and will be expanding the range soon for customers in Europe.

http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/NI200-Wire.html

Slightly bemused by the 0.45mm option, presumably you would need an entire spool

 

[gray]

Ok folks a few pros and some questions yet again.

Finally was able to set up a few nice coils after my initial first kayfun build. The next one was a 3mm ID coil at .23ohm 30g wire. Vapes fantastic all well and even more amazing I finally got my Veritas to work. I did had to heat up the coil to tweak it a bit but I can finally vape that thing with nickel so a huge success for me there lol.

Now a maybe stupid question but I had to ask. At first I assumed the DNA40 would be strictly there to A. not burn our wicking material and B. not broil our e liquid. Now, if I set my coil to 480F to not always hit the temp limit my cotton would still burn if the atty would be totally dry. So really it's more for the point of not broiling our liquid than burning our wick.

I am just asking because if I set my flask to 400F I always hit that temp limit and the mod acts up. So I really have to set it way higher which is fine as long as the wick stays wet.

Maybe I am totally off here but comments would be appreciated.

Cool that you're getting it sorted. I run the veritas at 460 which is down from where I started at 470 while still at 23w. No problems filling the room up at this setting. It doesn't do a thing at ~400. I had a slight burnt taste on the tongue when it went totally dry a couple of times. Nothing like like the choking lungfull you would get with the dna30. I run the Kayfun at ~400.

 

[ukeman]

Ok folks a few pros and some questions yet again.

Finally was able to set up a few nice coils after my initial first kayfun build. The next one was a 3mm ID coil at .23ohm 30g wire. Vapes fantastic all well and even more amazing I finally got my Veritas to work. I did had to heat up the coil to tweak it a bit but I can finally vape that thing with nickel so a huge success for me there lol.

Now a maybe stupid question but I had to ask. At first I assumed the DNA40 would be strictly there to A. not burn our wicking material and B. not broil our e liquid. Now, if I set my coil to 480F to not always hit the temp limit my cotton would still burn if the atty would be totally dry. So really it's more for the point of not broiling our liquid than burning our wick.
I am just asking because if I set my flask to 400F I always hit that temp limit and the mod acts up. So I really have to set it way higher which is fine as long as the wick stays wet.

Maybe I am totally off here but comments would be appreciated.

"if I set my coil to 480F to not always hit the temp limit my cotton would still burn if the atty would be totally dry. So really it's more for the point of not broiling our liquid than burning our wick. "


WTQ...the dry wick will not burn in TP mode... the only time the temp or watts goes up is if the wick is wet... if that's what you are talking about.

 

[want to quit]

Thank you for the comment. I had the veritas at 480 and brought it down a bit to your setting and it works great.

How do you vape a kayfun at 400 without constantly getting the TC limit kick in? After 5 toots my temp limit kicks in instantly on the kayfun.

Cool that you're getting it sorted. I run the veritas at 460 which is down from where I started at 470 while still at 23w. No problems filling the room up at this setting. It doesn't do a thing at ~400. I had a slight burnt taste on the tongue when it went totally dry a couple of times. Nothing like like the choking lungfull you would get with the dna30. I run the Kayfun at ~400.

 

[dr g]

Note that optimum temperature is partly juice dependent. High VG juices take more temeperature.

I generally run my kayfuns at 420.

 

[want to quit]

And you never hit the temp limit? I vape castle reserve so 50/50 PG VG but the temp limit on both my kayfuns always kicks in even at 430

 

[dr g]

And you never hit the temp limit? I vape castle reserve so 50/50 PG VG but the temp limit on both my kayfuns always kicks in even at 430

Yup, castle long reserve is one of my favorite juices. If you are getting early cutout without vapor production, there is probably something suboptimal about the build. The cotton could have shifted, or there could be a hot coil, or coil short.

 

[want to quit]

I get about 4-5 nice long pulls and the 6th pull is probably cut in half because the temp control kicks in. I still get vapor just not too much. the reserve rocks

Yup, castle long reserve is one of my favorite juices. If you are getting early cutout without vapor production, there is probably something suboptimal about the build. The cotton could have shifted, or there could be a hot coil, or coil short.

 

[dr g]

I get about 4-5 nice long pulls and the 6th pull is probably cut in half because the temp control kicks in. I still get vapor just not too much. the reserve rocks

Temeperature control does not change vapor output. It is a *response* to the conditions inside the atomizer. Sounds like your juice is just running out. I don't know if your kayfun/wicking is keeping up with your demand.

 

[want to quit]

That makes sense. I take quite long drags especially in the evening and vape way more in general. Funny thing is that my very first build with a regulat 5/64 coil without heating up the coil is still the best vape I ever had with my kayfun. The 3mm coils works fantastic too though.

Restocked on wire so at least now I can work on a bunch of new builds. Just freaking glad that I got my Veritas to work FINALLY!

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[gray]

And you never hit the temp limit? I vape castle reserve so 50/50 PG VG but the temp limit on both my kayfuns always kicks in even at 430

I run the kayfuns with 32awg wire of any type. The small wire suggested to me by another forum member and it has worked out great. I get enough vapor for my liking at only 8-9w. I think it relates to getting the smaller coil right in the airflow.

 

[sedge]

I did a dual coil build on the new Aqua v2 with Ni200 and posted here if anyone is interested

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=14452474

 

[350ZMO]

I did a dual coil build on the new Aqua v2 with Ni200 and posted here if anyone is interested

Aqua v2 Authentic thread - Page 3

Thanks sedge, I'll pass. The juice control of the original works well, I have wicks sitting on top of channels and get 20W sustained, dual 3mm 30ga 10 turn coils sitting at .1ohm.

BTW, I cleaned the Lightning Vapes Ni200 with vodka then dry fired while blowing on it 5 times with TP at normal for me 410F. Wicked it, wetted it and filled it and no nasty taste.

 

[sedge]

Thanks sedge, I'll pass. The juice control of the original works well, I have wicks sitting on top of channels and get 20W sustained, dual 3mm 30ga 10 turn coils sitting at .1ohm.

BTW, I cleaned the Lightning Vapes Ni200 with vodka then dry fired while blowing on it 5 times with TP at normal for me 410F. Wicked it, wetted it and filled it and no nasty taste.

I'm glad you found my post helpful. I'm also pleased that the v1 is working well for you. Good cleaning technique.

 

[DejayRezme]

I am just asking because if I set my flask to 400F I always hit that temp limit and the mod acts up. So I really have to set it way higher which is fine as long as the wick stays wet.

We'd have to wait for a study to tell us what the safe levels for e-liquid and VG / PG is.

This is only speculation: I don't think setting it up to 500°F is too dangerous. The boiling point of 80%VG and 20% water is 250°F (121°C). For 90%VG 10% water it's 281°F (138°C). A mixture with 10% PG (e.g. flavor) could have a higher boiling point but somewhere around that. I do actually get the faintest wisps of vapor at 250°F, but we are already way above the boiling point simply to increase the amount of vapor production.

I'm not sure at what temperatures acrolein (the simplest aldehyde, whatever that means) will get created, but googling quickly I found this: "Over 530 F is the temp I've read on here that the ecig must reach in order for it to produce Acrolein.".

But depending on your wicking, any temp above 400°F will increase the "brownification" of your wick. So if you stay below 500°F you MIGHT be fine and just have to rewick more often.

 

[SeniorBoy]

And you never hit the temp limit? I vape castle reserve so 50/50 PG VG but the temp limit on both my kayfuns always kicks in even at 430

Congrats and welcome to the tribe. /lol

My KF (R91) build is 28 gauge Ni and the average is around .23 (range is .21 to .24) using organic cotton (Bio Wick) which I have used for about a year with Kanthal. I agree with Dr. G that something needs a tweak inside your RTA. My "pulls" change through the day. Longer, shorter, lung hits etc. This is rather typical for many many vapors. With AHL TTA @ 50/50 I'm set to 430F and around 13.5 watts and I never get the temp limit reached display. Since no one could tell me what the exact burn point of the organic cotton (Bio Wick) which I use I had to deploy trial and error and move the temp up in small increments.

Things are getting a little boring for me /lol so tomorrow I'm going to use Ni with my Squape Reloaded RTA. Should be interesting.

 

[BigBen01]

So where do we stand on "torching" or "glowing" nickel wire? I am torn and conflicted. Please somebody nudge me in one direction or the other because this fence riding is killing me.

 

[sedge]

Erring on the side of caution, I'm glowing them briefly (less than 2 seconds) at low watts (approx. 10 to 15) with TC off just to make sure they glow evenly.

 

[TheKiwi]

Hi all! I couldn't really figure out where to post this. So.

I was part of a preorder for a dual 18650 dna30 mod from a modder. Unfortunately she's kinda gone down (huge mess but I won't go into that) and I'll be receiving a mod with a cloupor chip instead. I've however asked her to just assembled whatever she can afford to send me, and not solder the chip on at all.

Planning to pick up a dna40 chip somewhere, but I was wondering if anyone knows of any service out there that can help with installing the chip into my bare mod. Thanks in advance!


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