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There is an issue kiwi....neither of my dna 40s do that....had xpv for two weeks now with all kinds of n and k builds....I have not seen that.
Eta....sounds like it sorted out....but I would still contact cs.
Eta....if both coils are cold....maybe it can't tell the difference? Until you fire that is....
(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
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Work hardening the nickel - can anyone point me to a post or video that shows me how?
Thanks
I have been using single coil Achilles dripper tank since i've had my DNA40 and after over a week, I've been curious what a harder hitting RDA would be like, so I took my Eclipse dual coil which is from the same maker with the air under the coil posts.
The build area is very small and a PIA to put duals on there, but I had been running it with a single coil so I put a 2mm ID .22 ohms Ni200 coil and at the small size dual air holes it still almost doubles the air flow of the Achilles.
Right off the bat (480 degrees, 25 watts) this baby kicked a..s with tons of performance and vapor like I haven't had since using 26g wire higher watts.
BOOOM !!!
(Its also vaping twice the amount of juice in each vape lol)
The build area is very small and a PIA to put duals on there, but I had been running it with a single coil so I put a 2mm ID .22 ohms Ni200 coil and at the small size dual air holes it still almost doubles the air flow of the Achilles.
Right off the bat (480 degrees, 25 watts) this baby kicked a..s with tons of performance and vapor like I haven't had since using 26g wire higher watts.
BOOOM !!!
(Its also vaping twice the amount of juice in each vape lol)
This is an e-mail, I recieved from Brandon:
? Message: Hi Folks, I am getting conflicting info regarding wrapping Ni200 coils for the DNA40. Should the coils be spaced, or wrapped touching? If touching, do we dry burn (not in temp control mode) ,to squeeze the coil, to remove hot spots, and get the coil to glow from the inside out, just like Kanthal? Thanks for any info you can give me.
Answer:
Hi Jeff,
If you are building a coil with wraps touching, make sure all of the wraps are touching to avoid hot spots. It is trickier with Ni-200 than with Kanthal but I've successfully built miro-coils that perform well.
Yes you can dry burn the coils, it tempers the wire a bit and burns off the oil they use in the drawing process.
Thanks,
Brandon Ward
Evolv, Inc.
Finally! I've been wondering about this and don't know why I didn't email them myself. Solid advice straight from the horse's mouth. Thanks for posting that.
I just want to add something to this... I've mentioned it before a few times in this thread but... When you dry burn them, you want to make sure you do so GENTLY. What I do is turn TP off, then set the wattage REALLY low... Pulse it... Because often even with REALLY low wattage there will be one or two wraps that will fire. So even that low wattage is enough to get them way too hot... Pulse till you start to see a glow and then squeeze... repeat a couple of times then they'll stop glowing (because now the heat is more evenly distributed. Then start bumping the wattage up until you can start to see them glowing just slightly... Keep compressing and nudging until it's firing evenly... For single coil from the inside out... For dual coils, also from the inside out, but make sure they are both firing at the same time... If they aren't, just like with kanthal give a squeeze to the one that fires first... Wash rinse and repeat until it's nice and even...
Why you must go gentle is because you don't want the nickel to get TOO hot... glowing slightly is ok... but if it gets too hot it'll start to leech carbon deposits out and degrade the wire itself...
Hi fellas, sorry for hijacking your conversation, just looking for a quick answer if someone could help me out. I noticed the ohms and voltage jumping when vaping is this normal occurrence with this chip? for example coil at 2 ohms according DNA30 at 12.5 watts= 5.1 now in the DNA 40 the coils read 1.83, 1.72, 1.9, 1.75 etc when firing and voltage same 4.0, 4.03, 4.7, 5.0 until both the resistance and voltage stays steady at the end of the pull.
lol. My resistance has been ridiculously wonky too.
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your resistance will rise a little when using ni200 but if its a lot then you have a bad connection at the coil. i had that problem till brandon called me and we sorted it out. got a good connection and it settles down im at .23 and it goes up to .25 at the most
mine goes from 1.2 down to 1.17 then back to 1.19. the voltage is holding steady once the resistance stops moving
I've finally decided to get rid of my first coil in the Veritas. I guess it was a luck build as I had a ton of problems with the second one. The third one is nearly spot on. I decided to do a spaced coil wrap this time. Here are a few things that may help:
The positive post nut was backing off or loosening up. I believe this was due to the lead wire expanding and contracting. I fixed this by using a 3/4 wrap around the post taking care to not overlap the wire under the nut.
The coil should cover about 1/3 or less of the air hole when looking directly into the hole from the juice well side. It seems to work like crap if the coil is sitting too far down. Do not make the coil terribly wider than the hole as the entire coil needs good, even airflow.
Add a wick over the top or slightly behind the coil. You can see something like this in Rip's veritas build where the wick is jammed between the metal material above the air hole and the coil. It's not absolutely necessary but seems to help. I'm still playing with this one in various locations.
Make sure the lead wires are completely covered and saturated by the wick material. I recalled that the dna40 averages the entire length of the wire. I believe that the lead wires can get hotter than the coil and cause performance to fall off. I've noticed that the leads will flash orange while dry under high wattage and the temp protect kicks in very fast.
This has worked well up to 33W and 440 deg. It may have more in it. Possibly due to the well spaced coils, I've not had any variance in resistance from the point that the hardware was snugged down. Any other suggestions are much appreciated.
The positive post nut was backing off or loosening up. I believe this was due to the lead wire expanding and contracting. I fixed this by using a 3/4 wrap around the post taking care to not overlap the wire under the nut.
The coil should cover about 1/3 or less of the air hole when looking directly into the hole from the juice well side. It seems to work like crap if the coil is sitting too far down. Do not make the coil terribly wider than the hole as the entire coil needs good, even airflow.
Add a wick over the top or slightly behind the coil. You can see something like this in Rip's veritas build where the wick is jammed between the metal material above the air hole and the coil. It's not absolutely necessary but seems to help. I'm still playing with this one in various locations.
Make sure the lead wires are completely covered and saturated by the wick material. I recalled that the dna40 averages the entire length of the wire. I believe that the lead wires can get hotter than the coil and cause performance to fall off. I've noticed that the leads will flash orange while dry under high wattage and the temp protect kicks in very fast.
This has worked well up to 33W and 440 deg. It may have more in it. Possibly due to the well spaced coils, I've not had any variance in resistance from the point that the hardware was snugged down. Any other suggestions are much appreciated.
I wonder if this is really an issue in our application? I've tried to research it but found little comprehensible information. It seems that high temperature will cause embrittlement (loss of ductility). It appears to be used in many mission critical high temp industrial applications like nuclear reactors but our little coils are not stressed.
I found this Nickel 200/201, Nickel 200, Nickel 201, UNS N02200, UNS N02201 - MEGA MEX
A couple of highlights
" Typically, the elemental restrictions of both, nickel 200 and nickel 201, are combined into one, dual-certified chemistry resulting in a single alloy with the desired characteristics of both alloys, Nickel 200/201"
"Nickel 200 & 201 are approved for construction of pressure vessels and components under ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII, Division 1. Nickel 200 is approved for service up to 600° F while Nickel 201 is approved for service up to 1230° F. Melting point is 2615-2635° F."
I think I will assume glowing these coils is not a problem in our application. I have no qualifications to support my assumptions, I will hope an expert will offer an opinion.
I would guess that with TP off, the coil may easily hit 600° F plus when pulsed to glowing. Personally I'd almost bet on it, but I'll wait until Phil gets his $4k FLIR camera aimed at it before I put any money on it.
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