Official DNA 40 introduction

[DejayRezme]

What does that actually mean? I've seen it come up a few times but don't really understand. If there was some resistance in the attie, surely it would be evident all of the time and temp control simply wouldn't work as the resistance wouldn't be following the curve of the ni200 it's calibrated for? But mine works flawlessly for a while, then decides to reset the Base resistance a few hundredths of an ohm higher :'(
Not criticising you by the way just thinking out loud so to speak

Yeah it might be a long shot, but depending on how the atty is constructed there could be bad connection between two parts that are screwed together internally. Or dependend on heating up and expanding and cooling down again. It's possible the positive screw just needs tightening or the threads cleaning (someone mentioned this a few posts back). I've actually never taken apart a kayfun style atty yet but the way the positive screw connects to the block and post above the insulator might be a potential problem. I didn't have this particular issue myself yet so I'm just spitballing!

Easiest way to exclude this would be to try a simple dripper with solid positive pin construction.

 

[JamieZ4M]

I've got some 32 gauge working using the post holes on a Magma but it was tricky as the dickens to get a solid connection without breaking the wire. Try some heavier wire.

Yup just as I thought, I'll order some 28 gauge thanks.

ive been wrapping my coils on the orchid a bit different i put the leads through the holes and then up and around the post screws to help not cutting the ni200 wire. feels tight but obviosly there is a problem and i dont have any other tank attys here atm or id put my kf on it loaned it out to a perspective new vaper maybe two his gf is trying it also good thing i had my flu shot

JamieZ4M what version is your orchid mines v4

I've only done the nickel build on my v1 (grub screws) so maybe only heavier gauge wire in that, but that's an idea to try with my v2 I'll try what you've done around the screws, but I think I'll try a day with the kayfun as that will more likely make a better connection and a full day with that will definitely rule it out as an atty problem given the frequency this is happening.
Just happened again since my last post coming out at 0.3 :/
I'll definitely post my findings tomorrow evening, if it is the atty, I need to find a fix as the orchid is by far my favourite and the rest don't cut it for me anymore, even the squape r I've juice received. In fact I think I'll try that tomorrow with a nickel build.

 

[JamieZ4M]

Yeah it might be a long shot, but depending on how the atty is constructed there could be bad connection between two parts that are screwed together internally. Or dependend on heating up and expanding and cooling down again. It's possible the positive screw just needs tightening or the threads cleaning (someone mentioned this a few posts back). I've actually never taken apart a kayfun style atty yet but the way the positive screw connects to the block and post above the insulator might be a potential problem. I didn't have this particular issue myself yet so I'm just spitballing!

Easiest way to exclude this would be to try a simple dripper with solid positive pin construction.

Good point, both my orchids have had a posi screw problem loosening after screwing on and off a mod that have been cured by nipping it up. So that was the 1st thing I tried. (Didn't make a difference )
I don't think I could get on with using a dripper all day but if I get the same problem with a new ni200 build on a different atty tomorrow I will try that

 

[Rossum]

I finally made a titanium build dual coil 9/10 wraps around a M3 screw ID 2.9mm came out with 0.29 ohm using 27/28 AWG grade 2 pure titanium wire (0.34mm).

Where did you get 27 or 28 gauge grade 2 wire? All I'd been able to find was 24 and 30 gauge grade 1.

TLDR: Titanium wire seems to works great with TC with the DNA40!

I've only been saying that for what, 3 or 4 weeks?

I concur that 330-340F is a good setting.

PS: I doubt that titanium dioxide will be created at the temperatures we use.
PPS: Actually it does! "This metal forms a passive but protective oxide coating (leading to corrosion-resistance) when exposed to elevated temperatures in air but at room temperatures it resists tarnishing." See my blog entry from some months ago.

This might be a good or a bad thing. Good because it might create an insulating layer making contact coils work the same as kanthal. Bad if the titanium oxide can actually flake off.

It can flake off if it gets thick, but it only gets thick of you get the wire really hot -- and by that I mean glowing brightly. Personally, I wouldn't use pure titanium on a non-TC mod, but I have no qualms with it on a DNA40, and I prefer it over anything else I've tried.

Right now, I'm running a 26 gauge coil made of ESG's titanium alloy. Its got higher resistivity and a lower TCR than pure Ti. It produces plenty of warm vapor set to 200F, and it bothers me that I can't set it low enough not to produce vapor, 'cause that means I have no real point of reference.

I've tried 304 annealed stainless as well, but it doesn't wanna run in temperature mode most of the time.

 

[Rossum]

I wonder if it's also possible that the higher resistance of the titanium wire is actually increasing the accuracy of the temperature measuring since an analog digital converter might be more precise at higher values if they use a linear scale instead of a logarithmic scale.

A higher TCR is definitely an advantage when it comes to accuracy of temperature measurement, but a higher resistance might not be. You can't measure resistance directly. You have to measure voltage and current, and one of them rises while the other falls when resistance changes. To do anything more than guess would require an actual schematic of the board. Then you could calculate how many milliamps and how many millivolts correspond to a 1-bit change from the ADC in the MCU, and then you could build a mathematical model that would answer your question.

 

[Woofer]

My Shark landed this morning, it`s been vapin` kanthal like a boss all day. Really great bit of kit, initial reaction =
Perhaps tomorrow I`ll try Ni200.

 

[Heespharm]

I run 4 orchids with ni200 not a problem

 

[dougward1960]

I run 4 orchids with ni200 not a problem

happy for you i got 1 dna 40 board no flaws

 

[Heespharm]

happy for you i got 1 dna 40 board no flaws

We should combine forces and have one working mod and atty

 

[dougward1960]

We should combine forces and have one working mod and atty

that would work

 

[rusirius]

Yup just as I thought, I'll order some 28 gauge thanks.




I've only done the nickel build on my v1 (grub screws) so maybe only heavier gauge wire in that, but that's an idea to try with my v2 I'll try what you've done around the screws, but I think I'll try a day with the kayfun as that will more likely make a better connection and a full day with that will definitely rule it out as an atty problem given the frequency this is happening.
Just happened again since my last post coming out at 0.3 :/
I'll definitely post my findings tomorrow evening, if it is the atty, I need to find a fix as the orchid is by far my favourite and the rest don't cut it for me anymore, even the squape r I've juice received. In fact I think I'll try that tomorrow with a nickel build.

I use my v3 orchid a lot and it doesn't have any problems. However it was really bad about cutting nickel, especially before I started work hardening it. Now when I build for it I not only work harden, but also double the legs on the negative posts so it's two going through instead of one. That way I can tighten down a bit more. If it's not snug enough the heating up can cause expansion that can loosen the connections which could explain your issues.

If it happens with other atties, this was one symptom I had with my first board that had issues. I would use it and it would be fine. I'd set it down for a minute or two and pick it back up, when I fired it it had forgotten it's base resistance and would reread it and now that it was warm it would always be a few hundredths of an ohm higher.

 

[MJMcMahon]

Hoping some of you with DNA40 devices will provide some advice here:

I thought I'd decided on a VaporFlask but, having heard that TheKiwi was charged shipping for warranty service, I'm questioning the wisdom of that choice. From what I've heard, VaporShark's customer service leaves a lot to be desired, and I've seen some questionable build quality on Hana devices. Short of a DIY (not an option - the last time I soldered anything was 1984), what device would you choose?

Thx,

Mike

 

[BNEAT]

I was under the impression that everyone was paying for shipping to Evolv

 

[Heespharm]

Hoping some of you with DNA40 devices will provide some advice here:

I thought I'd decided on a VaporFlask but, having heard that TheKiwi was charged shipping for warranty service, I'm questioning the wisdom of that choice. From what I've heard, VaporShark's customer service leaves a lot to be desired, and I've seen some questionable build quality on Hana devices. Short of a DIY (not an option - the last time I soldered anything was 1984), what device would you choose?

Thx,

Mike

Protovapor... When my device failed they sent me a new one with a return label for the old on... Now that's customer service!


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[JamieZ4M]

I use my v3 orchid a lot and it doesn't have any problems. However it was really bad about cutting nickel, especially before I started work hardening it. Now when I build for it I not only work harden, but also double the legs on the negative posts so it's two going through instead of one. That way I can tighten down a bit more. If it's not snug enough the heating up can cause expansion that can loosen the connections which could explain your issues.

If it happens with other atties, this was one symptom I had with my first board that had issues. I would use it and it would be fine. I'd set it down for a minute or two and pick it back up, when I fired it it had forgotten it's base resistance and would reread it and now that it was warm it would always be a few hundredths of an ohm higher.

Right, i tried a new build on the v2 but it kept clipping the leads (32 gauge) so i scrapped the post holes and wrapped the leads around the screws fogger style. Only been using it an hour or so and it's staying bang on 0.15. So far so good!
I tried a ni200 build on my squape r earlier too and that's not jumped around either. Soo it looks like I'm in luck
I will try another build on the orchid v1 when my thicker 29 gauge turns up. Hopefully the extra thickness will allow me to tighten it down more giving a solid connection without clipping the leads. What gauge of wire are you using in your orchid?

 

[ukeman]

Proto--- smaller company; assembled to order (choices), not seen a complaint of glitch with the 40 other than Heespharm...
I like everything about it.
Even though the batt replacement design is not to my liking, I can't complain; I got it as a backup and its definitely a front line device.

 

[TheKiwi]

Lol tbh if I were looking for a dna40 device, I would just wait for the bad chips to get outta the circulation first.

That said, I absolutely love my rdna40. Sick little device.


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[JamieZ4M]

Lol tbh if I were looking for a dna40 device, I would just wait for the bad chips to get outta the circulation first.

That said, I absolutely love my rdna40. Sick little device.


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I love the look of the rdna40. Would love to buy an enclosure and make my own!

 

[rusirius]

Right, i tried a new build on the v2 but it kept clipping the leads (32 gauge) so i scrapped the post holes and wrapped the leads around the screws fogger style. Only been using it an hour or so and it's staying bang on 0.15. So far so good!
I tried a ni200 build on my squape r earlier too and that's not jumped around either. Soo it looks like I'm in luck
I will try another build on the orchid v1 when my thicker 29 gauge turns up. Hopefully the extra thickness will allow me to tighten it down more giving a solid connection without clipping the leads. What gauge of wire are you using in your orchid?

30awg.. That's why I doubled the legs to help the screws get a bite without clipping.

 

[TheKiwi]

I love the look of the rdna40. Would love to buy an enclosure and make my own!

I pretty much turned into an instant fan boy the moment I held the rdna40. The size is absolutely perfect. I used to think big box mods (ESP dual 18650) were the way to go, and had no issues with the size. Then I got a few Reos and that was perfect.

And then I got the rdna40. Now that I really like. The magnet battery lid is an added bonus.

My single only gripe is the brass 510. But I can live with that


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