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I know mine isn't doing this, but I'll repeat it exactly as described just to verify...
Picked it up and forced coil detection. .18 ohm... Which is exactly what it is...
Unit sat idle for 7 minutes... Pressed watts up button...
.18 ohm... No change
Forced reset again, just for fun.... .18 ohm...
Fired coil for a second or two to get coils hot....
Forced reset again... .25ohm
Let sit 7 minutes again to cool off....
Hit watts up button to wake... .18 ohm
So it's staying solid at .18... and definitely isn't "stuck" as it had no problem picking up the change when I heated the coils...
Have you tried bumping the watts to 40W and running it to see if you get a screen glitch as well after any short period of time?
Hey Rossum,
What is this blue foam. I know people used it as wick material but what the heck is it. Just the name "Blue Foam" sounds like a good way to die.
Oh - one other thing you mentioned lead as a component of brass and I poo-pooed you. I found some soft brass to use as homemade crimps to prevent snipping off the Ni200. It came out great, worked good, I was really proud of my self.
Then I read the package "This Product Contains Lead". Proven by the State of California to make you sterile and/or go nutz.... OK I took a little literary license with that last part but I am sure glad you keyed me up or I wouldn't have even read the package.
I didn't think the temperature protection would matter much as dry hits weren't any sort of issue for me. Now I seriously doubt that I would even consider a device without TP.
I very much appreciate both the flexibility and consistency that being able to choose both power levels and temperature limiting provides. The big bonus to me is that temperature limiting has pretty much gotten rid of the taste/sensation of vaping through a wet towel that I got from cotton wicks.
That said, Ni200 wire is soft and a few people have found working with so frustrating that they have gone back to no TP with Kanthal. The reverse battery protection, step down power and soft limiting are all significant improvements in the DNA 40 aside from TP.
Someone from Sweden posted that Vapor Shark sent them a prepaid international UPS label for their Vapor Shark that needed warranty repair. The VS took a week for repairs.
You might want to check with other manufacturers to see what their international warranty policies are.
I'm the mod builder... Err... Modifier. I just want the board. Contacted one store which told me that evolv will handle it if I get a problem. Waiting for response from others... Doesn't look good though. What's worse than the waiting time in case of trouble is that I might even have to deal with customs if they ship me a new or repaired board
BNEAT,
I wouldn't be too sure about other devices having extreme environmental operating ranges. i.e.
iPhone 6 Environmental Requirements
Operating ambient temperature: 32° to 95° F (0° to 35° C)
Not as extreme as you might think for something that gets most of its use in the field or going between the great outdoors and your living room.
We are talking about the same phone that bends, permanently, in your front pocket. Right?
Although directed to Rossum... Blue foam was/is a kind of plastic sponge with large holes in it that would hold better on liquid than anything else back then. It actually had exactly the same texture as eheim pro fish filters. Many people outsourced the "blue foam" from fish supply stores because it was much cheaper than buying the pads.
They would definitely kill you in the long run since you occasionally would scorch them and get a nasty plastic dry hit. I melted more than one in the good old days.
I still have some around lol and just for you, I took a pic:
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
perhaps do both and then run over it with a vehicle!
Or tie it to the back of the Dodge Ram and climb a mountain.
I like way you test things. lol
Cringe.
The blue foam. Back in the days when if you had blue foam, you are a serious rebuilder.
Hahahahahahaahhaaha
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Not all brass contains lead. What's called marine brass contains no lead, for example.
I'm the mod builder... Err... Modifier. I just want the board. Contacted one store which told me that evolv will handle it if I get a problem. Waiting for response from others... Doesn't look good though. What's worse than the waiting time in case of trouble is that I might even have to deal with customs if they ship me a new or repaired board
We are talking about the same phone that bends, permanently, in your front pocket. Right?
Although directed to Rossum... Blue foam was/is a kind of plastic sponge with large holes in it that would hold better on liquid than anything else back then. It actually had exactly the same texture as eheim pro fish filters. Many people outsourced the "blue foam" from fish supply stores because it was much cheaper than buying the pads.
They would definitely kill you in the long run since you occasionally would scorch them and get a nasty plastic dry hit. I melted more than one in the good old days.
I still have some around lol and just for you, I took a pic:
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
YES - the same phone. Besides the fact that it is Apples version of a folding flip phone a lot of electronics have similar specs.
Thanks for the pics of the "Blue Foam". It is hard to believe people used that as a wick material and have all kinds of concerns about using Rayon, Cellulose which is nothing but refined wood pulp. That Blue stuff looks like a short trip to the Ear, Nose and Throat Doctor not to mention a call to the Poison Hot Line.
Well if you want to have an idea of how a dry hit with that felt like you only need to burn a plastic bag and inhale the fumes... Very similar. After 5 years I can still remember the harsh disgusting feeling in my mouth lol
Glad I only scorched two or three
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Glad I only scorched two or three
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Well the brass I picked up was Eagle Claw fishing swivels/clips wish I had read the package before I purchased.
It is good to know that not all brass has lead but most of the stuff even brass hardware (nuts & bolts) never seem to mention what they contain. When I read the back of the Eagle Claw stuff I was really amazed to see the warning.
Anyway I have decided to use aluminum from soda can and such. I figure if they pack food stuff in it, it can't be all that bad and it is soft. The only problem with it is steel-wool-ing the anodizing or whatever they coat cans with off. Not hard just time consuming like everything else involved with Ni200.
Well the brass I picked up was Eagle Claw fishing swivels/clips wish I had read the package before I purchased.
It is good to know that not all brass has lead but most of the stuff even brass hardware (nuts & bolts) never seem to mention what they contain. When I read the back of the Eagle Claw stuff I was really amazed to see the warning.
Anyway I have decided to use aluminum from soda can and such. I figure if they pack food stuff in it, it can't be all that bad and it is soft. The only problem with it is steel-wool-ing the anodizing or whatever they coat cans with off. Not hard just time consuming like everything else involved with Ni200.
HGT, can you refresh me what application we're talking about here that you're going to use aluminum for? I've lost the chain of reference.
When I first started as an apprentice locksmith, a long time ago, I remember new parents asking for blank keys because their kids loved to put them in their mouths. You should have seen the horror in their eyes when I told them brass keys contain a good amount of lead!!
Last night I decided to remove the "New AW IMR 18650 battery when I've seen the weak battery flashing on the screen while I was trying to build nickel coils running on my rDNA 40 on temp control. So when I woke up this morning at 6:30am, it was still charging on "Low" on the Nitecore charger. The time on it, "7 hours"! No way! When I had my Provari mini, the blue light flashes and you could not fire it. Does anyone know what's going on? When I take out the battery from the mini, it only takes about 2-3 hours to complete the charge but 7 hours in the VS sounds odd. Anyone know what voltage this VS stops you from firing it or will it discharge completely and then shut off therefore ruining your 18650?
Since I was the person who first confirmed the "indoor/outdoor" phenomenon, in this thread at post #1907: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ial-dna-40-introduction-191.html#post14602884 I thought it important to report that the phenomenon was not replicable under similar conditions, done a few minutes ago.
The temperature variance was actually closer to 40+ degrees difference. The phenomenon did not reoccur...
The other condition [secure/proper connection] was not, and is not, a variable I can assure that my connections are, at the minimum, exact, i.e. perfect, to the point that I need to be careful not to strip the philips screw head.
AS I have watched this thread I see increasing SPECULATION that settles on no particular pattern.
The temperature variance was actually closer to 40+ degrees difference. The phenomenon did not reoccur...
The other condition [secure/proper connection] was not, and is not, a variable I can assure that my connections are, at the minimum, exact, i.e. perfect, to the point that I need to be careful not to strip the philips screw head.
AS I have watched this thread I see increasing SPECULATION that settles on no particular pattern.
The DNA 40 datasheet indicates you should be using a battery rated at a minimum of 16 amps continuous. I don't know if the AW sticker you mention is what is used on the newer AW batteries but those are the AW 18650s you should be using. They are 20 amps while the previous ones were 10 amps.
At 52:45 in his interview with Phil Busardo Brandon talks about how soft limiting works in the DNA 40 regarding a low battery. He says that the DNA 40 will refuse to fire at 2.75 volts to prevent over discharging.
I don't know why your battery took longer than usual to charge. Make sure that all contacts are clean and that the battery is seated correctly in the charger.
You know, ultimately like I mentioned a few days ago I think the solution will be for atty makers to leave the bottom on the through holes solid, but in trying to think of how I could retrofit existing ones I had a pretty good idea but haven't had a chance to try it yet.Well the brass I picked up was Eagle Claw fishing swivels/clips wish I had read the package before I purchased.
It is good to know that not all brass has lead but most of the stuff even brass hardware (nuts & bolts) never seem to mention what they contain. When I read the back of the Eagle Claw stuff I was really amazed to see the warning.
Anyway I have decided to use aluminum from soda can and such. I figure if they pack food stuff in it, it can't be all that bad and it is soft. The only problem with it is steel-wool-ing the anodizing or whatever they coat cans with off. Not hard just time consuming like everything else involved with Ni200.
A simple set screw (cap) with a hex head. Screw it in past the through hole until it's flush with the bottom of the hole. Then the screw can mesh up with the top of the set screw. Should work pretty good, just haven't had a chance to dig through my hardware and see if I have any the right size.
that is a great idea. i just found a bag that had like 8 set screws in it next fill up im going to see if they fit my orchid. even if they are a bit to tall i'll drill them out on the drill press. hope they fit
They should try titanium. I wouldn't use it w/o temperature protection due to its propensity to oxidize at higher temperatures, but with temperature protection, I like it better than either nickel or Kanthal.
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