Official DNA 40 introduction

[Spirometry]

Sorry to see that. Assuming you don't have juice/liquid inside your mod what you have described and shown via your pic is a defective board. Evolv can handle the "make good" /RMA for all the vendors and IMHO that would be my own choice to get a rev 3 board (the latest). They have dedicated tecks who handle this issue.

See: Evolv LLC - Contact

And the pdf: http://evolvapor.com/RMA/DNA 40 RMA form.pdf

HTH

I didn't realize Evolv was doing repair work for the other resellers.
I already have a RMA in with Vaporshark, they emailed me a prepaid 1-Day Priority label and said they will exchange it with a new device. If I have problems with the second one I will send it directly to Evolv.

 

[JohnDoses]

I just watched Robert's video. That has to be the most uninformative video bashing TP. He goes on and on about how the chip was rushed to market, the beta testers suck, the TP sucks. Really? How so? He never says how so. Hogwash! Apparently, Robert has a hard time grasping new technology. I claim user error.

The 2 working Flasks that I have perform as intended and I enjoy the TP vape very much.

If you can get a working board then it's a no brainer. The DNA40 is one of the best purchases for vaping I've ever made. It truly is a wonderful thing. If you're buying new stock of a pre-made device I'd think they would all be on the latest chip now. If you plan on buying a board by itself and making the mod, then I'd verify that whomever you're purchasing from has the latest v3 board in stock and not old stock to eliminate any chance of you getting a bad one. I'd think that by now most of everything being shipped is v3.

Great info. Which brings me to my next dilemma, which one to get. I really want dual 18650 batteries, but the prices are up there. I think i will settle with a Vapor Shark, but first i will contact them and ask about their chips and what not.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[DejayRezme]

Should I buy a DNA40 device right now?

It's a great chip but temperature protect can be fiddly. In any case it's better in every respect than the DNA30. There have been quite a few glitched boards but you can get them replaced.

Cons to TP with the DNA40:

• Nickel wire is soft
• Nickel resistance is so low that coils get larger
• Small connectivity issues can screw up TP (510 or post connectivity)
• Temperature might be a little off when in cold weather

That being said I still think the chip is great and with titanium wire it's just like kanthal and the chip is just pure awesome.

 

[SeniorBoy]

I just watched Robert's video. That has to be the most uninformative video bashing TP. He goes on and on about how the chip was rushed to market, the beta testers suck, the TP sucks. Really? How so? He never says how so. Hogwash! Apparently, Robert has a hard time grasping new technology. I claim user error.

The 2 working Flasks that I have perform as intended and I enjoy the TP vape very much.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm not sure I have the inclination to watch the entire thing but I think I will force myself. After only 4 minutes I'm ready to ______. From what I have learned, both Brandon and John have very thick skin. /lol Is the 40 perfect? No but give me a break already. Please correct me but isn't that a dripper on his Flask? Ironic!

 

[Woofer]

After only 4 minutes I'm ready to ______. From what I have learned, both Brandon and John have very thick skin. /lol Is the 40 perfect? No but give me a break already. Please correct me but isn't that a dripper on his Flask? Ironic!

It will be SO awesome when Mr. Ellis stops flapping his yam and brings a mod to market. That will be sometime after he figures out if reverse battery protection works.

 

[Frocket]

Great info. Which brings me to my next dilemma, which one to get. I really want dual 18650 batteries, but the prices are up there. I think i will settle with a Vapor Shark, but first i will contact them and ask about their chips and what not.

Thanks for the replies.

If temp control isn't a deal breaker for you, I'd say you could grab a different mod and save some money. I've been playing around with nickel coils, but I keep gravitating back to kanthal coils. They're easier and simpler to build, and based on my experience with my atties, I already know what wattage works with each particular atomizer/coil combination.

The Sigelei 100w isn't the prettiest mod in the world, but it's under $100 depending on vendor. Actually, it's not ugly, its appearance is just incredibly boring. Also dual 18650, so plenty of battery life, even at 40-50 watts. I haven't played with the IPV3, which is also dual 18650, but based on my experience with the IPV2, it's probably not a bad investment. It's a little pricier (~$140), but still less than DNA40 mods.

Do you need 100 or 150 watts? I seriously doubt it. However, they'll both work just fine at lower watts, and have loads of battery life.

If you're set on the DNA40, you could try an XPV from Protovapor. It's a single 18650 mod, but from what I've read it hasn't had as many issues. Then again, they probably haven't sold as many as the Vapor flask has.

BOOM!

 

[SeniorBoy]

It will be SO awesome when Mr. Ellis stops flapping his yam and brings a mod to market. That will be sometime after he figures out if reverse battery protection works.

LOL

I think his heroes, mentors, and inspiration came from Joe and Nitro. Another fact filled first hand experience review of the 40 /sar

After watching the entire "thing" their is a certain irony IMHO. He makes a subjective valid point but it gets lost in all the yapping. That would be "Pre Heat" called "Boost" in the P3. Perhaps in a future version the Pre Heat when running in TP mode could be controllable as it is in the P3. I believe it's the duration of same and sometimes (not always) it's a little to hot for my lips. Natch, that's just me but I like it very much in the P3 which has 5 levels/settings for Boost.

 

[JohnDoses]

I just watched Robert's video. That has to be the most uninformative video bashing TP. He goes on and on about how the chip was rushed to market, the beta testers suck, the TP sucks. Really? How so? He never says how so. Hogwash! Apparently, Robert has a hard time grasping new technology. I claim user error.

The 2 working Flasks that I have perform as intended and I enjoy the TP vape very much.

If you can get a working board then it's a no brainer. The DNA40 is one of the best purchases for vaping I've ever made. It truly is a wonderful thing. If you're buying new stock of a pre-made device I'd think they would all be on the latest chip now. If you plan on buying a board by itself and making the mod, then I'd verify that whomever you're purchasing from has the latest v3 board in stock and not old stock to eliminate any chance of you getting a bad one. I'd think that by now most of everything being shipped is v3.

If temp control isn't a deal breaker for you, I'd say you could grab a different mod and save some money. I've been playing around with nickel coils, but I keep gravitating back to kanthal coils. They're easier and simpler to build, and based on my experience with my atties, I already know what wattage works with each particular atomizer/coil combination.

The Sigelei 100w isn't the prettiest mod in the world, but it's under $100 depending on vendor. Actually, it's not ugly, its appearance is just incredibly boring. Also dual 18650, so plenty of battery life, even at 40-50 watts. I haven't played with the IPV3, which is also dual 18650, but based on my experience with the IPV2, it's probably not a bad investment. It's a little pricier (~$140), but still less than DNA40 mods.

Do you need 100 or 150 watts? I seriously doubt it. However, they'll both work just fine at lower watts, and have loads of battery life.

If you're set on the DNA40, you could try an XPV from Protovapor. It's a single 18650 mod, but from what I've read it hasn't had as many issues. Then again, they probably haven't sold as many as the Vapor flask has.

BOOM!

I'm not totally set on a DNA 40 yet, but I really do like the DNA 30 and I want to upgrade. I'm in a tough spot, will I use the temp control enough to have to buy a dna 40? Probably not, but I think it's cool. Right now, when I'm dripping, I like my watts between 25-30, but I do want to experiment and build lower and keep upping the watts, just because this is a hobby now and not simply a smoking alternative. Oh yea, and I just received my Atantis, and although it is great at 25-30 watts, I hear it shines at 35-45. I really don't think I need anything above 50-60 watts, I do not like hot vapes.

The Sigelei 100W from what I hear is a great device, but I don't like the size. I don't have the biggest hands in the world, so anything bigger than a Hana would have to be spectacular for me to buy it. Speaking of which, I could probably sell my Hana for $150 and put it towards a new device....hmmm. The IPV3, I know nothing about, might have to do some research.

I think the VaporFlask is the frontrunner just because the size is right and I think they look and feel quality. Vaporflas isn't totally out of the equation though, but I wonder how it would feel in my hand. I'd love to buy a box mod from small vendor, or some garage vendor who makes nice mods mainly for fun, just because it would be cool to have something unique that isn't mass produced. Something like MyVapes on facebook, that dude is legit but I think all his box mods are unregulated mechanical.

Either way, if anyone has some ideas that isnt Vaporshark, Hana, vaporflask, innokin, or Sigelei, feel free to share.

 

[JohnDoses]

It will be SO awesome when Mr. Ellis stops flapping his yam and brings a mod to market. That will be sometime after he figures out if reverse battery protection works.

Ya know, I actually liked the guy before this rant (except for his juice reviews...dear god, I would rather saw off my own leg). But his rant on the DNA 40 is FULL of animosity and anger. It's like he is legitimately angry that he doesn't like this chip, I don't get it. Give it a thumbs down and move on. But no, instead he has to rant and go on and on about issues that he chooses not to explain. I think he is salty at something.

 

[tchavei]

In my other hobby we usually get like that when we ask for something to review and the vendor charges us... LOLLLL

PS: personally I've never asked for a upgrade part for review (in that other hobby) but curiously vendors used to ship them to me and ask for an unbiased review. I never was influenced and when I didn't like something I would say exactly what it was, why it was and that opinion might vary from user to user.



Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[DejayRezme]

That would be "Pre Heat" called "Boost" in the P3. Perhaps in a future version the Pre Heat when running in TP mode could be controllable as it is in the P3.

I think that his problems with the preheat might just be caused by a problem with the temperature controlprotection. Maybe he has connectivity problems and additional resistance, so the preheat apply too many watts to reach temp so he gets the "burn" he speaks off.

PS: Or it might actually be a difference in use? I vape temp limited, that is I set 40 watts and change the vape by changing the temp setting. But if you set watts e.g. to 11 (this goes to eleven!) but the temp to for example 500, is it possible that the preheat feature might actually dump way too much power into the coil?

 

[Heespharm]

I think that his problems with the preheat might just be caused by a problem with the temperature controlprotection. Maybe he has connectivity problems and additional resistance, so the preheat apply too many watts to reach temp so he gets the "burn" he speaks off.

Yup I find on my builds , if not built correctly it'll ramp up too high to heat the coil... That's usually indicative of bad grounding


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SeniorBoy]

Interesting and valid thoughts on the "mystery" of pre heat. This might explain why my wonky old R91 build occasionally gave me a jolt that was to hot for my lips. Or ? it might have been what "God" called Refinement Mode. The 40 continues to look at the average temp of the coil and make adjustments in the idle OHMs/Resistence and thus the relationship between your temp setting and watts. This may produce a different pre heat. The way "God" /lol explained it to me is that in those cases where you may start to use a topper that is NOT at room temp, the 40 will eventually figure things out to the correct "base" via Refinement Mode. I normally don't pay attention or at least a lot of attention to my OHMs reading but this might ? help explain why the OHMs change even though the build/wicking is rock solid and the pre heat max is not always the same or even close. Admittedly, some of this might be beyond my pay grade but the use of a topper that is not at room temp I clearly remember. /HA

 

[TheKiwi]

So I'm not alone..... I find that when I vape above 20W, the chip ramps up to 40W for a couple of seconds and it scorches my throat. I absolutely hate that but have no idea how to solve it. Happens across multiple atties, all with clean spaced coils.


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[Bassnorma]

So I'm not alone..... I find that when I vape above 20W, the chip ramps up to 40W for a couple of seconds and it scorches my throat. I absolutely hate that but have no idea how to solve it. Happens across multiple atties, all with clean spaced coils.


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I don't notice that but then I keep my temp set between 400 and 430 depending on the juice.

 

[DejayRezme]

So I'm not alone..... I find that when I vape above 20W, the chip ramps up to 40W for a couple of seconds and it scorches my throat. I absolutely hate that but have no idea how to solve it. Happens across multiple atties, all with clean spaced coils.

I guess the preheat function is mostly determined by the set temperature. So if you vape normally below the "cut off" temperature and set watts so that you never hit temp protection, the preheat might overshoot shortly the actual temperature you vape at normally. You could simply try to reduce the temperature to see if that helps.

Interesting and valid thoughts on the "mystery" of pre heat. This might explain why my wonky old R91 build occasionally gave me a jolt that was to hot for my lips. Or ? it might have been what "God" called Refinement Mode. The 40 continues to look at the average temp of the coil and make adjustments in the idle OHMs/Resistence and thus the relationship between your temp setting and watts. This may produce a different pre heat. The way "God" /lol explained it to me is that in those cases where you may start to use a topper that is NOT at room temp, the 40 will eventually figure things out to the correct "base" via Refinement Mode.

Oh right forgot about that lol I guess this refinement mode is also the reason why resistance changes in cold surroundings. Only found this from the protovapor faq:

Technical: DNA-40D & temperature protection | Protovapor.com

The DNA 40D does “refinement” of the ohm reading when the mod is idle. This means it monitors the coil resistance and updates the ohm reading if it can be made more accurate. It is common for refinement to lower ohms by 0.01-0.02 below the initial reading after the mod has been sitting for several minutes, it should not cause an increase in resistance or a fluctuation; that is likely a coil connection issue.

 

[JamieZ4M]

The preheat function is definitely set temp dependant, so if you want less heat at the start, turn the temp down. You're best off vaping while looking at the display and seeing roughly what the temperature settles at during your vape, then setting the temp limit 10 or 20 degrees above that. This way the preheat function will jump to your vape temp rather than above it.

 

[Mark Denison]

I would rather poke a fork in my eye than watch any video from Robert ellis! Ever since he trashed Grimm green in his atomic rda review, I cringe when I see him mentioned.

 

[jaxgator]

I would rather poke a fork in my eye than watch any video from Robert ellis! Ever since he trashed Grimm green in his atomic rda review, I cringe when I see him mentioned.

That was the first video I watched of his. It is the last as well.

 

[DavidOH]

That was the first video I watched of his. It is the last as well.

I'm with you there and I only made it to about 5 minutes.