Thanks awsum40. I will stalk them on Amazon and get to have handy for the new Fogger V6.0 that's on its way. That's why I'm willing to be a little creative with this one. [emoji6]
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I finally got my 6.0 running. I used the "tighten the screws to cut and force wire" down the over drilled positive post screws. That was tedious, but it worked. Now my work space is littered with little cutoff pieces I missed. The build is a simple .98 ohm, 30 gauge Kanthal, wrap on a 12 gauge needle and wicked with rayon. I'm using it on an ipv at 19 watts.
The first time I filled it, it leaked like a sieve. I had over trimmed the wick tails and I put it down, upside down, and walked away in frustration. Yesterday I emptied it out, rinsed it and tucked some little tufts of rayon on the tails to restrict the wick channels a little more. It hasn't leaked at all, even when filling, since that adjustment.
Overall, it's a nice RTA but there are caveats. The crappy machining of the positive post holes being the first one. The second one is the reduced capacity. I was only able to get a little over 3ml into it. At the rate that liquid gets consumed in a dual coil, rayon wicked, device it tends to empty fairly quickly. The top fill makes it a lot easier to re-fill, so I guess that's a trade off. The larger chimney is what seems to reduce capacity, but that is a trade off for build room.
The first time I filled it, it leaked like a sieve. I had over trimmed the wick tails and I put it down, upside down, and walked away in frustration. Yesterday I emptied it out, rinsed it and tucked some little tufts of rayon on the tails to restrict the wick channels a little more. It hasn't leaked at all, even when filling, since that adjustment.
Overall, it's a nice RTA but there are caveats. The crappy machining of the positive post holes being the first one. The second one is the reduced capacity. I was only able to get a little over 3ml into it. At the rate that liquid gets consumed in a dual coil, rayon wicked, device it tends to empty fairly quickly. The top fill makes it a lot easier to re-fill, so I guess that's a trade off. The larger chimney is what seems to reduce capacity, but that is a trade off for build room.
Mine usually tries to leak every time I fill it. I do the cu tip trick in the chimney, then once finished filling I let it sit upside down for a minute to drain then it's good, no matter how sloppy my wicking is. 0.5 ohms burns through juice like a pig though, but it's my most reliable rta to date. Gonna see if I can pick up another one at my b&m today along with some LG he2 batteries for my flask that is showing up today
Question for anybody with a v4.1 (4.4), and a v6. I'm curious if the chimney bore is any wider??
I have a modified v4.1 already, and the only reason I could see picking up a v6 for myself would be if the chimney had a wider bore.
Thanks.
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I have a modified v4.1 already, and the only reason I could see picking up a v6 for myself would be if the chimney had a wider bore.
Thanks.
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The inside diameter of the V6.0 chimney is about 3mm at the top (not measured with a micrometer, measured with a scale). Personally I wish it were 4mm.
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I haven't "miked" them, but the 6.0 is definitely larger than the 4.1 (4.4). It does reduce the capacity by about a milliliter or so, though.
Thanks guys, I may just pick one up in a couple weeks. (Well if they don't release a v7 between now and then).
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Well guys, Phase one of my V6.0 revival (reconnecting negative terminal posts and filling positive block screw hole voids) seems to have worked. I went a little nuts at first and tried some silver solder... was too much of a pain in the ...... So... I did it with the titanium drill bits and conductive adhesive (AA-DUCT 906) last night and checked everything with my meter this morning and I've got it! Now to be patient and wait for the entire cure time to pass... dang it!
I'm actually thinking about buying more AA-DUCT 906 and a large bore syringe to fill the voids below the coil lead holes on my new Fogger V6.0 when it gets here.
I'm actually thinking about buying more AA-DUCT 906 and a large bore syringe to fill the voids below the coil lead holes on my new Fogger V6.0 when it gets here.
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That's an epoxy base and, again, I would be very cautious about introducing a compound that could leach unpleasant chemicals. Stuffing it with wire is a little slow and tedious, to be sure, but nothing there that isn't already present normally.
I was trying to think of a way to use plumbing solder to do that job, but keeping it hot and getting just the right amount would be a little difficult, not to mention reliable adhesion to stainless.
I was trying to think of a way to use plumbing solder to do that job, but keeping it hot and getting just the right amount would be a little difficult, not to mention reliable adhesion to stainless.
That's why I gave up fairly quick on the silver solder last night... it was being a pain. I'm still thinking about it... haven't decided on what exactly I'm going to do with the new one when it gets here.
I was thinking along the lines of taking the center post and heating it directly and doing it that way. The problem is feeding solder into the over-drill through the top or side holes.
Hey guys. Im thinking about getting a Fogger and wanted some feedback. I started using a Kayfun Lite+(first RBA) a few weeks ago. I love the way it vapes, but I dont like having to take out a screw to fill it and the threads on the plastic tanks seem kind of fragile.
I like most of what Ive read about the Fogger. My biggest concern is that its designed for dual coil builds, and I like single coils. Does anybody have experience with single coil builds on the Fogger.
J.R.
I like most of what Ive read about the Fogger. My biggest concern is that its designed for dual coil builds, and I like single coils. Does anybody have experience with single coil builds on the Fogger.
J.R.
If you love the KFL+ vape, and want to stick with single coils, you may be better suited looking at a Kayfun 4. Similar vape (slightly more airflow), single coil, and is easily top filled.
That said, if you want more airflow, (subjectively) flavor, vapor production, and are willing to give dual coils a shot, then the fogger is an excellent candidate.
I've never done a single coil on a fogger, it can be done, but is obviously not designed for it. To build a single coil on it you should block the airhole for the side of the deck you aren't using. Honestly I think its just easier to do a dual coil build than trying to turn a fogger into something it isn't.
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Thanks Dan. I bought a Kayfun 4 clone, and it's piece of crap. I'm sure most of the problems I have with it are due to it's being a cheap clone, but I hate to spend $180 dollars for an authentic before I know I'll like it.
J.R.
J.R.
Haha, right on. I was able to fix my janky kf4 clone with some new o-rings, mainly #16, but I've heard of some being worse, and needing other fixes to get them working well.
Subtank Mini does surprisingly well in the rba mode. That may be another option, its not top fill, but it is easy to fill and doesn't require a screwdriver.
That said, foggers have good flavor and vapor production; I really like my modded v4.1
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You could probably plug the extra wick channels in a Fogger with some silicon from a carto or a piece of "O" ring and use it as a single coil. Using wick to block them would allow wicking through them, however slight, and probably lead to leaks. I'd just do a higher ohm build and use two coils if you're trying to keep the ohms up.
I've seen of people using the insulator from an old kanger head to block the airflow on the deck too. I thought about doing that when I was building a fogger to use on an istick, but I just went with 30g dual coils to get it over 1 ohm.
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Hi awsum. I think I'm going buy one to try. I asked here because Sweet Vapes' site says it can be used for single coils.
J.R.
Sitting here with my nautilus mini wishing my fogger was working... come to papa vape mail! I hope to get it this week but with it coming from the NE it may get snowed in a few days. Me fixing my current one was a fail. But hey, I'll have lots of spare parts now!
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