Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3

[raitizz]

Ummmm. Procure pickle from pickle jar. Open mouth. Place pickle in mouth. Bite. Chew. Make that "oooooooo, vinegar!" face.

I don't think, I can eat that much pickles..
And I'm still on flavourless during the day. The Wait.

R

 

[HBcorpse]

Precisely!
10char

 

[raitizz]

Ooh! Ooh! Me!!! :waves hand: I am!!!!

Care to elaborate on the combo of COMBOs?

I have a K4 clone on the way. $200 is WAY too much to find out you don't like how it works or how it vapes.

I have a bad feeling, that with enough drinks my hand will slip and I'm gonna wake up the next morning out 160EUR+shipping and with a PayPal receipt in the mail...

R

 

[DPLongo22]

I don't think, I can eat that much pickles..
And I'm still on flavourless during the day. The Wait.

R

I don't know if it will help but I cape a few ml's of straight Lemon flavored juice each day. I've managed to avoid Vaper's Tongue for three years and I believe that MIGHT be a contributing factor.

I hope yours breaks SOON.

 

[raitizz]

I don't know if it will help but I cape a few ml's of straight Lemon flavored juice each day. I've managed to avoid Vaper's Tongue for three years and I believe that MIGHT be a contributing factor.

I hope yours breaks SOON.

Thanks! I'll mix me some, when the rest of the DIYing goodies arrive and try it out! Don't want to vape that chinese stuff.
I hope too..
R

 

[DPLongo22]

Thanks! I'll mix me some, when the rest of the DIYing goodies arrive and try it out! Don't want to vape that chinese stuff.
I hope too..
R

Just do yourself one favor and vape it, not "cape" it (like I apparently do). Fat fingers, little keypads.

 

[Bronze]

I hear ya; been running mech mods and subohm rdas for the past 8 months, and never owned a provari, why would I want a 20W device? Because I like it. I like the way it looks and feels, the reliability, and the quality. I see no reason for a box mod that doesn't squonk. I feel clearos are making leaps and bounds and the P3 is a perfect device to utilize these. I'll leave my Reos to do the rdas.

RTA's are perfect for the P3 as well.

 

[Bronze]

VW implies the wattage is kept constant as the resistance changes, VV implies the voltage is kept constant and thus the wattage drops as the wire heats up- of course it's a bit more complicated because it's all done with RMS voltages and PWM.

What I am trying to understand how to account for the difference between what I observed on my V2.5 devices vs the VW setting on the P3 (without boost). ..

I am absolutely suggesting that the output is regulated differently between VW and VV and short of seeing it on an oscilloscope, I am hoping to get someone running 28 or even better 26Ga coils (most likely between 1.1 and 1.8 ohms) to share observations between VV & VW on a P3 (boost off) and the same build on a P2.5.

I'm simply exploring the probability that there are other improvements in the P3 related to how it manages output (beyond boost) that effect the quality of the vape, and those improvements would be most apparent in heavier gauge builds.

OK, I understand what you're saying now. Yes, I would expect the P3 to adjust voltage or power depending on which mode it is in. But like you, I can't say without hearing from PV or see it scoped. And yes, all we got from Phil was showing it DID, in fact, adjust for resistance fluctuations but I don't know which mode he was in. He also scoped for delivery accuracy (which was quite impressive).

Now, I hate to ask but I'm too lazy to go back and look, what was your test between P2 and P3? What were you trying to compare?

 

[rbrylawski]

The SubTank is 25mm - doesn't fit on anything but a box mod. Even with the "beauty ring", it doesn't look right on the P3 due to the P3 being about 23mm, then there's a shelf to 22mm at the start of the beauty ring. What were they thinking? Most mods are 22-23mm, but someone though 25mm was a great idea?



ProTanks were the best, until better products started coming out. Yeah, leaks, gurgles, dry burns... I upgraded mine with Aspire bases and Aspire dual coil heads and got some more life out of them.



I like the vape from the Turbo (takes a 30mm mod though), with dual 0.8 ohm coils (for 0.4 ohms total), but filling it is a pain - have to turn a ring in the middle, since the two coils are side by side and can't twist. But yeah, seems Kanger misses the mark in at least one way with every product. With the SubTank, it's the 25mm diameter.

Well, not having any experience with the Turbo, your assessment would make it another Kanger tank relegated to the vape drawer for me. I saw the picture of it on someones P3 and it just doesn't look good (no offense to anyone who thinks it does). The P3 with a 22mm tank is large enough. The Turbo at 25mm is too large. And if filling it is a pain, I wouldn't use it, no matter how good it is.

 

[jimho]

OK, I understand what you're saying now. Yes, I would expect the P3 to adjust voltage or power depending on which mode it is in. But like you, I can't say without hearing from PV or see it scoped. And yes, all we got from Phil was showing it DID, in fact, adjust for resistance fluctuations but I don't know which mode he was in. He also scoped for delivery accuracy (which was quite impressive).

Now, I hate to ask but I'm too lazy to go back and look, what was your test between P2 and P3? What were you trying to compare?

Less of what I was trying to compare than what I had to deal with... When my P3 started having issues, I tried to run my build on the P2.5's and it was a no-go at the same voltage... 26ga, 1.6 ohms and 4.8V. it took 10-12 seconds to get it hot enough to draw vapor. Previously, I did run the P3 with boost off and a 2-3 second preheat with the same build- no issue -I was just testing out the difference between boost on and off... I never compared the P3/VV to the P3/VW or the P3 in VV mode to the 2.5- which up till this point I thought would be identical.., And like you, I set up in VW mode on the P3 and never went back to VV..

When you made the comment that the only truly significant feature (as far as vape quality was concerned) was boost it got me wondering.. I agree it was the most obvious improvement but I suspect there's more subtle improvements to go along with that Atom processor... ...

 

[Bronze]

Less of what I was trying to compare than what I had to deal with... When my P3 started having issues, I tried to run my build on the P2.5's and it was a no-go at the same voltage... 26ga, 1.6 ohms and 4.8V. it took 10-12 seconds to get it hot enough to draw vapor. Previously, I did run the P3 with boost off and a 2-3 second preheat with the same build- no issue -I was just testing out the difference between boost on and off... I never compared the P3/VV to the P3/VW or the P3 in VV mode to the 2.5- which up till this point I thought would be identical.., And like you, I set up in VW mode on the P3 and never went back to VV..

When you made the comment that the only truly significant feature (as far as vape quality was concerned) was boost it got me wondering.. I agree it was the most obvious improvement but I suspect there's more subtle improvements to go along with that Atom processor... ...

Hmmm. I'll have to check that out. I'm going to dig further into 26 gauge builds in the coming days/weeks (never fully explored 26 gauge on the P3s). I'll have to try it on both P's and see what I find.

 

[HBcorpse]

Care to elaborate on the combo of COMBOs?

Sure!

28 gauge wire, wrapped 5 times around a 7/64" drill bit AKA a 2.779mm drill bit, with KohGenDoh(sp?) tucked lightly inside...and I run it at 10 watts.
As far as the coil, I WAS using a 28g 7 wrap, on a 3/32"-2.383mm drill bit, as I would on my KFLs...but someone on this thread suggested that the KF4 has far more stock airflow than a KFL, and may need a larger diameter coil to keep up...this also seems to have aided in wicking. A flavor I that had always been muted to me, and was so in the KF4 with my KFL build, simply EXPLODED onto my taste buds with the newer build.
For the wicking, I used about 3/8" wide slice of Japanese cotton, and pulled the two "outer layers" off, leaving just the "middle" fluff. I lightly rolled it, and stuck it through, unrolled it, and trimmed to length. The tails fall right onto the wicking deck. I got the cotton loaded up with juice, and reassembled the KF4. Then I top filled, opened the juice control, and was on my merry vaping way!
Hope this was helpful!
Your mileage may vary!
P.S. I am going to try a 1/8" - 3.175mm drill bit at some point...but I'll more than likely have to change wire gauge...or simply do less than 5 wraps of 28g...it's all trial and error!

Pictures of the 28g-5 wrap-7/64" build up soon.
Pictures of the experimental build up soon as well.

 

[Pinggolfer]

I don't know if it will help but I cape a few ml's of straight Lemon flavored juice each day. I've managed to avoid Vaper's Tongue for three years and I believe that MIGHT be a contributing factor.

I hope yours breaks SOON.

You sure it's just the lemon juice curing your VT?

 

[raitizz]

Sure!

28 gauge wire, wrapped 5 times around a 7/64" drill bit AKA a 2.779mm drill bit, with KohGenDoh(sp?) tucked lightly inside...and I run it at 10 watts.
As far as the coil, I WAS using a 28g 7 wrap, on a 3/32"-2.383mm drill bit, as I would on my KFLs...but someone on this thread suggested that the KF4 has far more stock airflow than a KFL, and may need a larger diameter coil to keep up...this also seems to have aided in wicking. A flavor I that had always been muted to me, and was so in the KF4 with my KFL build, simply EXPLODED onto my taste buds with the newer build.
For the wicking, I used about 3/8" wide slice of Japanese cotton, and pulled the two "outer layers" off, leaving just the "middle" fluff. I lightly rolled it, and stuck it through, unrolled it, and trimmed to length. The tails fall right onto the wicking deck. I got the cotton loaded up with juice, and reassembled the KF4. Then I top filled, opened the juice control, and was on my merry vaping way!
Hope this was helpful!
Your mileage may vary!
P.S. I am going to try a 1/8" - 3.175mm drill bit at some point...but I'll more than likely have to change wire gauge...or simply do less than 5 wraps of 28g...it's all trial and error!

Pictures of the 28g-5 wrap-7/64" build up soon.
Pictures of the experimental build up soon as well.

Thanks, man!
I think, this was the propaganda I needed. The hell, why not. A well built top-filled RTA with a coil base removable without dumping the juice, fairly simple to build, and a P3 connector, and all in all it keeps up with the P3 quality standards. And if the taste is half as people describe it..

R

 

[Pinggolfer]

Sure!

28 gauge wire, wrapped 5 times around a 7/64" drill bit AKA a 2.779mm drill bit, with KohGenDoh(sp?) tucked lightly inside...and I run it at 10 watts.
As far as the coil, I WAS using a 28g 7 wrap, on a 3/32"-2.383mm drill bit, as I would on my KFLs...but someone on this thread suggested that the KF4 has far more stock airflow than a KFL, and may need a larger diameter coil to keep up...this also seems to have aided in wicking. A flavor I that had always been muted to me, and was so in the KF4 with my KFL build, simply EXPLODED onto my taste buds with the newer build.
For the wicking, I used about 3/8" wide slice of Japanese cotton, and pulled the two "outer layers" off, leaving just the "middle" fluff. I lightly rolled it, and stuck it through, unrolled it, and trimmed to length. The tails fall right onto the wicking deck. I got the cotton loaded up with juice, and reassembled the KF4. Then I top filled, opened the juice control, and was on my merry vaping way!
Hope this was helpful!
Your mileage may vary!
P.S. I am going to try a 1/8" - 3.175mm drill bit at some point...but I'll more than likely have to change wire gauge...or simply do less than 5 wraps of 28g...it's all trial and error!

Pictures of the 28g-5 wrap-7/64" build up soon.
Pictures of the experimental build up soon as well.

Sounds great HB. All I need is someone to build those coils with the cotton in place and sell them. I can't wrap a present yet alone a coil. Start a business.

 

[raitizz]

Sounds great HB. All I need is someone to build those coils with the cotton in place and sell them. I can't wrap a present yet alone a coil. Start a business.

I want to say "Use the force", but....

R

 

[The Ocelot]

Sounds great HB. All I need is someone to build those coils with the cotton in place and sell them. I can't wrap a present yet alone a coil. Start a business.

I'm sure you could handle the wicking part. RBA RDA Coils (10): Pre-Built Coils with 22-28 Gauge Kanthal, 0.3-1.4 – MaxVaping They have other sizes.

These are pricier, but ship from the US and have a variety of coils. http://www.vapingcotton.com/pre-mad...kanthal-double-twisted-kayfun-style-1-0-ohms/

 

[rbrylawski]

Sounds great HB. All I need is someone to build those coils with the cotton in place and sell them. I can't wrap a present yet alone a coil. Start a business.

Hence why BVC Coils are the greatest invention EVER, only beat by the P3 itself for this plug and play guy!

 

[Pinggolfer]

I'm sure you could handle the wicking part. RBA RDA Coils (10): Pre-Built Coils with 22-28 Gauge Kanthal, 0.3-1.4 – MaxVaping They have other sizes.

Just add cotton??? Will they work on a Kayfun?

 

[The Ocelot]

Just add cotton??? Will they work on a Kayfun?

You probably posted before I added the other link. Vaping Coils - Kayfun Coils - Vaping Cotton Online

Considering how long coils last if you take care of them, the price doesn't seem that high. I think the coil in my Ruz is from June.

ETA: They sell Japanese cotton too.

ETAA: There's this one too: http://www.vapingcotton.com/pre-mad...ayfun-chimney-double-twisted-coils-1-15-ohms/