Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!

[scotdc]

ok, jumping ohm and error reading fixed...

I dismantled, cleaned the pin and contact points with alcohol, made a new coil, wicked and all is perfect once again. I say perfect loosely as I am still a noob and this is my 4th coil and wick build.

Am hoping this full service in not going to be needed each time. But the reality is that once I decided to stop messing about with each area separately and start again it wasn't too time consuming or frustrating.

View attachment 503822

the above wick is actually flush with the deck, just a weird angle showing part of the channel

View attachment 503823

View attachment 503824

I got my Squape Rs from an ECF member on the classies here. Even though it was in perfect condition, I had the very same problem with my first build on it, the ohms jumped around from 1.6 to 4.3 on my ohm reader! I did the same thing as you did, breaking it completely down for cleaning. Haven't had a problem since (about 4 builds on it now).

But you have to love this Squape, really easy to build on with no dry hits and great flavor.

 

[Yonjuro]

I got my Squape Rs from an ECF member on the classies here. Even though it was in perfect condition, I had the very same problem with my first build on it, the ohms jumped around from 1.6 to 4.3 on my ohm reader! I did the same thing as you did, breaking it completely down for cleaning. Haven't had a problem since (about 4 builds on it now).

But you have to love this Squape, really easy to build on with no dry hits and great flavor.

That sounds promising, and yeah I do love it. Am typing as I toot on some Brewells #88 and it is wonderful! The only thing that could make it better would be a P3 connector

I did buy the filling attachment thingy and that is a plus with my short sightedness

 

[scotdc]

That sounds promising, and yeah I do love it. Am typing as I toot on some Brewells #88 and it is wonderful! The only thing that could make it better would be a P3 connector

I did buy the filling attachment thingy and that is a plus with my short sightedness

What filling attachment thingy? There's a thingy? I am so interested!

 

[Yonjuro]

What filling attachment thingy? There's a thingy? I am so interested!

one of these

 

[scotdc]

one of these



View attachment 503837

OK, I'm looking for one now.

 

[Yonjuro]

OK, I'm looking for one now.

I had doubts it would work when I saw it as it just drops into the chimney, but it really does, and not the slightest bit of juice gets in the chimney

 

[Bhoot]

So I had sonic cleaned and then isopropyl bath the bases as I was getting some funky flavour. I accidentally dropped the base in the iso bath and saw a ton of dirt come flying out. Dropped it a few times and it was clean. The soot came from the Middle 510 pin, and the space between the deck and bottom playing, take the deck out and u can see it.


Bhoot

 

[nj1001]

Yeah, I did the same a few weeks ago. Disassembled every single component of my squape & removed every screw, rinsed with warm/hot water then into a sonic bath for a bunch of 5 minute rounds in warm water with a drop or two of dish soap. I also used a high pressure water pick to try and squirt out the inner chamber of the base between the sonic bath cycles (thats where all the funk gathers and its pretty inaccessible unfortunately). I got it cleaner than I have ever remembered seeing it. I verified its effectiveness by using trimmed q-tips or fine rolled paper towel into the tiny threads and into that inner chamber to look for any signs of black sooty funk, and it was immaculate.

Though it worked well after, I could still get some variation in resistance based on tinkering with the center-pin right after - with both a brand new or freshly cleaned old pin. Granted, I only vape Ni200, so it's bound to be more sensitive than kanthal. I don't mean to burst your bubbles, but cleaning it exceptionally well isn't going to solve the center pin resistance variations. It might help it, yeah. Soot increases resistance as it does on any contact thread, but 100% solve our issue... unfortunately, nope.
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I saw those new filler caps. I was tempted to get one but I'll hold off until I have to order something more substantial. Not worth adding $20 shipping just for that. Besides, I recently bought a dozen 30ml unicorn bottles for crazy cheap and have been transferring any juice I vape into them. They're pretty awesome. Take up less space in my pocket, more ergonomic to hold & use and best of all, the fine tip nozzle makes filling quicker and easier than ever for me. I decided to do this after reading somebody's testimony of doing the same. Could've been on this thread actually.

 

[ibndevilish]

I have finally found others who are having issues with the 510 center pin. I have torn mine apart and cleaned everything inside and out and my resistance still jumps like a mad dog after a squirrel.. I have been all over the net looking for new 510 pins and the only place I could find is with Stattqualm. So would have to order from overseas. I wonder if we could use some other 510 pin for it? No matter how much I clean mine is makes no difference. But I guess since others have replaced the pin wouldn't really matter.

 

[Yonjuro]

I have finally found others who are having issues with the 510 center pin. I have torn mine apart and cleaned everything inside and out and my resistance still jumps like a mad dog after a squirrel.. I have been all over the net looking for new 510 pins and the only place I could find is with Stattqualm. So would have to order from overseas. I wonder if we could use some other 510 pin for it? No matter how much I clean mine is makes no difference. But I guess since others have replaced the pin wouldn't really matter.

Yeah, it is frustrating. Interestingly when you go on their site they have the support section that mentions about the jumping ohms

FAQ

I find the instructions to be overly simple and for them to have it there, certainly means that many people have this issue. I personally find the remedy quite unsatisfactory. I was unaware that I needed to factor in the cost of a sonic cleaner in the budget for this device?

Mine is working well again today so will just keep my fingers crossed. I don't want to be ordering new pins from overseas to Australia for something that I shouldn't have to. I don't know what the laws are like elsewhere but the basic premise in consumer protection in Australia is that 'the device must be fit for its intended purpose' or words to that effect. So if a part of a device doesn't work as it is intended then a full refund must be given. Mine was bought new and delivered less than a week ago, so wear and tear shouldn't be a factor.

So yep, I am frustrated, but I do love the vape from the squape so .... ????

 

[ibndevilish]

Well I was lucky enough to get 2 used ones but they were like new. I love the Squape and always wanted one when I first seen Phil Busardo do his review on it. I still paid good money even used. But I just tighten the 510 or un tighten whatever I need to. but when your resistance jumps up to 2.6 and it is a 1.4 then it's a pain as it will burn my cotton, So I'm always checking the tank on my mods. I will never get rid of them as they are a great tank lacking the 510 pin. I was actually going to get the Squape RS until I seen about the 510 with that also. I don't have a ultra sonic cleaner and I'm not buying one just to clean 2 tanks. I washed them in alcohol and used little Qtips and used toothpaste on the pins also, so that is all I will do, oh and soaked them over night in dawn detergent and water. Now if that doesn't clean them I don't know what else will.

 

[nj1001]

What I was saying is that buying new pins won't do anything wiping them clean with a napkin won't do. As for ultrasonic cleaners, they're nice to clean any metal, atty, etc. but it won't do a lick of good in terms of fixing the resistance variation. I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and a bunch of new center pins from Stattqualm hoping for the same. So you can spend your money like I have or not, I'm telling you it's not going to fix it.

I'm beginning to sound like a broken record but despite this issue, it's still hands down my #1 atty for flavor, ease of set up, air adjustment/draw, and large juice capacity (5ml R). I only use hypersensitive Ni200 in a DNA40 or SJ350SX and I just use it to my advantage- though less than ideal & not how it's supposed to be, I use it to my advantage as an adjustable resistance. Just determine the precise expected resistance and adjust it until it gets there, then lock the ohms in and I'm good for days.
Tried other atties since I got my squape but I rarely last a day with anything else before coming back to it. If I come across another atty which (#1 )produces better flavor, doesn't have too airy or tight of a draw, & can be coiled and tweaked without having to drain the tank, point me in the direction.

 

[Sptz]

The 510 pin debacle was the reason I sold my Squape Rs. Fav atty ever but too erratic to trust it on a daily basis.

I asked the creator on their community FB page if there was a plan to release something like a pin that would thread and reach a "cul de sac", so to speak, just like the Aqua V2 and it stays there, fully tightened and locked and sticking out a fair bit for compatibility.

He just said No, so... I sold it.

 

[Viluxia]

Its a shame this atty has a problem with the 510 pin, as it truly is a great atty and does everything well, short of actually figuring out a way to fix the 510 in place with some form of glue/solder or Statt actually making a fixed 510 base because the majority of mods have sprung loaded 510's, its looking like ill be replacing the Squape with something proven to be stable all the time.

 

[drippaboi]

For those having jumping ohms with kanthal -

I never understood this whole jumping ohms thing as my 4 Squapes have never had a problem - then again I've never adjusted them out of the box. That is until ...

I bought a sonic cleaner and fully disassembled each one for an extremely thorough cleaning through my new toy. Put the Squapes back together and Oh No! All 4 of them suddenly have this issue

After playing around with them for a bit (read: weeks) I've found that the pin likes to be out fairly far, definitely further out than I would have thought they should be by about a turn or so.

Can't speak to ni200. I have yet to try it in the Squape

 

[fargazer]

I've started having the same issue. I tried the wire trick, but now the threading holding the 510 pin has a problem. Anyone know what thread and pitch appropriate for a tap / die set?

Once I've straightened the threading out, I'm going to try some silver conductive epoxy and see what that does to the resistance jumping problem.

 

[Viluxia]

For those having jumping ohms with kanthal -

I never understood this whole jumping ohms thing as my 4 Squapes have never had a problem - then again I've never adjusted them out of the box. That is until ...

I bought a sonic cleaner and fully disassembled each one for an extremely thorough cleaning through my new toy. Put the Squapes back together and Oh No! All 4 of them suddenly have this issue

After playing around with them for a bit (read: weeks) I've found that the pin likes to be out fairly far, definitely further out than I would have thought they should be by about a turn or so.

Can't speak to ni200. I have yet to try it in the Squape

I ultrasonic cleaned my squape on day 1, and since then ive had the issue, could it be something the ultrasonic messes with im not sure, at the moment its seriously annoying, my kanthal build jumps around from 1.13 to 1.18 and after each fire it finds a new resting resistance between that range, on a dna 30 it jumps from 1.1 to 1.2 on the screen due to the none decimal point, so with that TC builds are a no go...ive had another new pin delivered today with the same result, so its the base - but what ive go no idea and im not buying a new base id rather sell it or fix it.

 

[drippaboi]

Yes - I was getting wild jumps of something like +/- 0.3ohms from where it should have been. Tested using the SX mini I kept backing the pins out a quarter turn until my resistances were solid again down to the 1/100th

 

[Bhoot]

Guys...so my 2nd base which I use for d deck dual builds. Decided to have a play around. Kanthal user. So cleaned and wicked a new. Now on the YIHi sx350 I have to lighten the pin up but for the eleaf istick 100w I have to loosen it to near the 510pin o-ring. Now the top jump as I call it. Saturated the wick until it was full around the air hold of the deck directly below the coil/wick. Tilted the base until the liquid dropped down and tested it out. Was using the 510tab to test the whole tilting and ohm checking. Took 5 drops for the ohm reading to start jumping.
Overall diagnoses.
1. ISO/alcohol clean is a must for me. Only way to clean the funky stuff.
2. Not sure why I did not do this before. My Atlantis tank. Left it half full with a disgusting juice. Could not get it out even after so Ic cleaning and bathing it. Eventually left it in the sonic cleaner for a week giving a 5min clean each day then did a overnight bath and let it dry during for 2 hours. Finally it felt better than new. Going to try this next time.

Squape like all tanks does have it quirks but I can live with them and say have a sure fire way to get it cleaner than I first got it. Shame I have a couple of genuine Kayfun v4s sitting there. Cannot take them apart as several o rings are so tight I cannot take them part and far too much maintenance.


Bhoot

 

[nj1001]

I'd even like a newer version of the squape base to be able to be unscrewed opening up the air chamber where juice drips and gets repulsive. From there you'd be able to see the top of the center pin too so it could be soldered down if you so choose. I think that soldering it into place is the only way, but without access, it would be exceptionally difficult.
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In order to find a solution we first have to identify the exact cause of the problem. I personally suspect that our issue comes from frequent adjustment of the center pin which, over time, could wear the threads of the hole the center pin screws into. Just about any metal on metal screw if turned in and out enough will eventually start to wear out to some degree and get loose. Hell, I bet even without frequent manipulation of the center pin, the threads could and should be tighter than they are fresh out of being manufactured.

If this is in fact contributing to or the cause of our issue, a simple fix could be to find the very next larger size of machine screw to replace the current center pin with. It would be a tight & firm fit which would decrease play and yield more consistent resistance. Since, however, it still won't be fused into place, it will need to be cleaned from time to time to remove sooty creosote build up much like develops on all 510 threads in use over time.