Those were my thoughts exactly. I will try just moding the top part and using the MrK method. Thanks Rick!!
P & p
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No need to mod the top of the ceramic if you're gna use the MrK method, nextel will fit snugly in ceramic as is.
This is true... the short wick method came about by trying to find a solution to use Nextel XC-116 without modding the ceramic, because at the time no spare ceramics were yet available... I know that Rick45Cal likes his wick extra moist and is the reason he opened up his top channels a bit... so it really depends on your tastes if you choose to mod the ceramic at all...
Just out of curiosity what do you do with the neg wire? For me just laying it in the channel Mrk method or with wick in the channels I get no connection. I tried un-modded ceramic with nextel MrK method with the neg wire wrapped around the ceramic housing (3/4 turn) tonight and it leaks worse for me then anything else I have ever done.
maybe its the way you lay your wires in the ceramic... The horizontal channel of the ceramic controls what liquid seeps past the wick and down into the center pin there is the leaking point... unless you have a bad o-ring or forgot to install one of them... VASOLINE is your best friend lather up all the threads and especially the bottom o-ring that seals the base... I guess the best way to explain it is the tampon method... Your WICK is the Tampon that must stop the flow yet remain moist but not so moist that it drips down the center pin.... unless of course you cross-threaded or have a bad o-ring like stated before as these are the only ways ODY can leak or yours is just defective... In other words if your twisted section of wire is making a gap that juice can get through to the center pin it will leak... the wick needs to act like a dam to impede the flow of liquid from the center pin while remaining moist... I hope my explanation helps but its the best way I know to explain it... and its ok if the wick is a mm or 2 longer than the diameter of the ODY and might be best for your solution...
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I think I may have over lubed or something didn't sit right. I took it apart didn't change anything but wiped some excess vasoline off the top o-ring and re-assembled. It seems to be working ok now. I am going to leave the juice controll open over night and see if I get any leakage. My current setup is wick just in top channel un-modified ceramic with Nextel and neg wire wraped 3/4 around the ceramic housing.
fright, if you want the negative wire to always make contact then you can make a fat negative wire by wrapping more NR wire around the twisted wires. That way you can let negative wire inside the channel.
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Fright, I just lay the wire on the ceramic right against the metal threads, trim it at the bottom so it is only as long as the ceramic body. then screw the thing down into the base, the wire won't get caught in the threads, and can't contact the center post. then I just screw the knurled nut down on everything. Simple 
Thank you both Rick and Imeo. I will try them both and get back. So far today after leaving my mouthpiece 2 turns open last night my current setup seems to be working. When I got up there was no juice in the collector tank at all. As of now there is slightly more then a drop but I think that was from accidentally blowing into the mouthpiece once.
Congrats Fright! I've been anxiously awaiting your results. I'm skulking around the classies definitely looking for an ODy to practice on. Can you post a pick of your coil next time you fill 'er up?
Chris
Here you go.
First pic my collector tank with tissue to see how little leaked throught the day with the juice controll open. When I woke up after 6 hours with the juice controll open 3 turns it was still perfectly white. I think the little that leaked was due to me blowing into it on accident.
My coil after a little more then 1 tank through it.
Same coil after dry burn and Sonic Cleaning about 5 minutes
New coil using Rick's negative wire method. I will try the method Imeo posted tomorrow night but I used the same coil from last night and didn't want to try to mess with it.
I normally dry burn every night and rebuild every 2-3 days. The past few days I have been rebuilding every night to try different setups.
Imeo - is possible any update of info about electronics for PP from US?
Thanks...
Thanks...
They are here Yard and I will start making my first prototype in 3 days. I think that in 15 days I will be ready to make a review
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