Yes everyone should buy the best safest batteries that are available.
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p18650 vent holes
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Yes everyone should buy the best safest batteries that are available.
No problem. If you want to be that way about it, it is fine with me. I will no longer offer you any more advice should you seek it. YOMIL.
The 18650 Precise has a fair amount of clearance between the battery and the case. I made it a bit looser as theres a "fair" amount of diameter difference in the 18650 battery brands. I remember reading about a couple of mods that didn't take the 3000 mah red Ultra fires due to being to wide, so i didn't want that to be an issue with the Precise, so i sized it accordingly.
On as side note, yes there are youtube videos for batteries failing, but those batteries were intentionally set up to fail. Has anyone ever heard of batteries failing in a mod using 18650's or stacked CR123a's? The only ones i have ever heard failiing are those damn stacked CR2's.
On as side note, yes there are youtube videos for batteries failing, but those batteries were intentionally set up to fail. Has anyone ever heard of batteries failing in a mod using 18650's or stacked CR123a's? The only ones i have ever heard failiing are those damn stacked CR2's.
David you can design your mods with all due safety in mind, but at the end of the day can you project with absolute certainty how that mod will be used? No! That is what the discussion is about.
There are still folks burying their head in the sand wrt battery safety. There have been many threads that have demonstrated to folks that we are using batteries outside of their design characteristics and limitations, and some of these have resulted in catastrophic failures. The good thing about these unfortunate incidents, is that manufacturers have re-visited battery safety and are making their batteries safer. To me that is not a bad thing. They are answering the call not unlike you answering the call for an "all mechanical" device.
DealExtreme: $4.15 LC 17335 3V 1000mAh CR123A Battery 2-Pack these are the batts he intends to use in the P18. A simple read of the comments on that page should have lead him elsewhere wrt choice> They are unprotected yet the OP intends to use 'em in stacked application. So why order a protected 18650 for single cell use and order unprotected batts for use in series. Does that makes sense to you? The other way around would have been marginally better, but at least would have increased the margin of safety somewhat.
Ultrafire 18650 3000mA exploded - CandlePowerForums
These are incidents we know about, how many go unreported? The fact that it is occuring should raise concerns and cause sobering reflections. In defense of the gentleman, he didn't know better. BTW those were un-protected 18650s. Could this unfortunate accident have been prevented? IMHO yes.
(snipped from a previous post)
I will answer your last comment first. Yes all batteries are dangerous. The batt was installed in a sealed metal flashlight which = PIPE BOMB
<<He charged two cells overnight, then charged the third cell the next day. When all three cells were fully charged he put them in the light and turned it on. It exploded almost immediately.>>
Edit: The only reason I commented on your post Dave is to increase my post count.
There are still folks burying their head in the sand wrt battery safety. There have been many threads that have demonstrated to folks that we are using batteries outside of their design characteristics and limitations, and some of these have resulted in catastrophic failures. The good thing about these unfortunate incidents, is that manufacturers have re-visited battery safety and are making their batteries safer. To me that is not a bad thing. They are answering the call not unlike you answering the call for an "all mechanical" device.
DealExtreme: $4.15 LC 17335 3V 1000mAh CR123A Battery 2-Pack these are the batts he intends to use in the P18. A simple read of the comments on that page should have lead him elsewhere wrt choice> They are unprotected yet the OP intends to use 'em in stacked application. So why order a protected 18650 for single cell use and order unprotected batts for use in series. Does that makes sense to you? The other way around would have been marginally better, but at least would have increased the margin of safety somewhat.
Ultrafire 18650 3000mA exploded - CandlePowerForums
These are incidents we know about, how many go unreported? The fact that it is occuring should raise concerns and cause sobering reflections. In defense of the gentleman, he didn't know better. BTW those were un-protected 18650s. Could this unfortunate accident have been prevented? IMHO yes.
(snipped from a previous post)
I will answer your last comment first. Yes all batteries are dangerous. The batt was installed in a sealed metal flashlight which = PIPE BOMB
- He used an unprotected charger
- He used unprotected batteries
- He stacked batteries of dissimilar voltages.
<<He charged two cells overnight, then charged the third cell the next day. When all three cells were fully charged he put them in the light and turned it on. It exploded almost immediately.>>
- Stacked batteries should always remain as pairs
- Should be marked top and bottom in a set and go into the device in the same fashion always.
- Should always be charged as pairs
- Only use PROTECTED batteries when stacking or using in series
- Only use chargers with overcharging protection.
- When in doubt, it is safer to toss the battery than experience catastrophic failure
- Everyone that vapes should possess a multi-meter, especially those who vape HV and stack batteries
- When in doubt pull out the multi-meter
Edit: The only reason I commented on your post Dave is to increase my post count.
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Yes, don't have a link handy, but somebody burnt up their leg pretty good when a battery started venting in their MOD in their pocket. Think it was in a Chuck (remember pics of it all fried up), don't remember if this was with a single batt or a stack, protected or not.
[edit] Not sure f this is the incident I'm remembering?
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/thag-built-chuck/75702-my-chuck-blew-up-literally.html
Here's another report, http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/18959-lithium-battery-failure-boom-im-okay.html
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Yeah, he was using "Evergreen" CR123 batteries. So avoid those at all cost...lol. I've been hammering it before, but again, i truly recommend batteries such as the AW brand. That's not to say they can't runaway vent too, but i'm not aware of any in a mod.
... and rightfully so. Many vendors have or are jumping on that bandwagon as well.
The AW 16340 are Not Protected.So are you not recommending i use them in the 18650 Mod.Because they need to be stacked
OK,
Now that I know what you are asking, I am not fussy about anything that is not protected.
That being said, LIMn (IMRs) are safer chemistry as well as LifePo4. IMRs are overkill in this application. Are you going for 6 or 7V because your link is for 7V applications? What I plan on using are the same batts I am using in my Chameleon:
Now that I know what you are asking, I am not fussy about anything that is not protected.
That being said, LIMn (IMRs) are safer chemistry as well as LifePo4. IMRs are overkill in this application. Are you going for 6 or 7V because your link is for 7V applications? What I plan on using are the same batts I am using in my Chameleon:
- For 7 Volt applications AW ICR-123 li-ion 3.7V 750mAh Protected battery
- For 6 Volt applications RCR123A 3.0V 900mAh
- Alternatives:
- AW 18650 2600 mAh and the IMR 18650 1600 mAh for 3.7 Volt applications
depends on the atty... but at 7.4V your atty to amp draw breaks down like this:
joye 510...................3.22A
standard 3.0Ω carto...2.47A
slb 510....................2.31A
801........................2.11A
901.......................2.00A
4.5Ω HV atty..........1.64A
5.2Ω HV atty..........1.42A
the ICR AW 16340 max drain rate is still 1.5A whether they're stacked or not...
So in my personal opinion I'd stack the IMR....with their 4.4A max drain rate
What he said, with a caveat. Not everyone vapes with a stock atty at 7V, they pop rather rapidly. I plan and plan on using 5.2 Ohm attys.
Stressing a protected battery is not as bad depleting an unprotected one. This is indeed new territory.
An HV 4.5 Ohm not XHV 5.2 Ohm atty at 8.4 still only draws 1.9A. Even with a fresh set of batts off the charger the 3.5 Ohm atty draws 2.1A.
I know we can't predict for every possibility. I prefer dble protection over vent holes.
Stressing a protected battery is not as bad depleting an unprotected one. This is indeed new territory.
An HV 4.5 Ohm not XHV 5.2 Ohm atty at 8.4 still only draws 1.9A. Even with a fresh set of batts off the charger the 3.5 Ohm atty draws 2.1A.
I know we can't predict for every possibility. I prefer dble protection over vent holes.
Low resistance atomizers are now common as are batteries that will properly yield and sustain the desired current to drive them. With these tools in hand, why are many here still interested in running batteries in series? Am I correct that we would all agree that use of stacked batteries is inherently less safe than use of a single battery? Please understand, I'm not being critical. I truly do want to know.
BTW (though slightly off topic): My AW IMR14500s came in from Hong Kong yesterday. Used with a 2 ohm BE112 in my Super6, this combination makes for as vivid and intense an experience as I need. For those planning to use these batteries with their S6's; get out your screwdrivers. These IMRs are VERY short.
BTW (though slightly off topic): My AW IMR14500s came in from Hong Kong yesterday. Used with a 2 ohm BE112 in my Super6, this combination makes for as vivid and intense an experience as I need. For those planning to use these batteries with their S6's; get out your screwdrivers. These IMRs are VERY short.
for me it's because of the different wattages (and heat) that I can get at different voltages...
I see a point and place for both regular and LR atties at 3.7V so likewise there are certain combinations of atty + juice at 6V and 7.4V that I enjoy at times...
Shorter than the regular 14500's or shorter than the protected 14500's?
I use the 16340 IMR's with LR cartomizers and I cannot imagine them at 5, 6 or even 7 volts... They're more than enough for me...
There are people getting much better performance out of the LR's than that..
Could it be the brand or where you're getting them from?
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