Penelope official and tips and tricks
- Thread starter imeothanasis
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Other people find it stiff nomo, so its a matter of taste. A friend here told me that I have to make it more airy
Nomo,
I find that using Penny on other mods that I can adjust the draw by not screwing the rebuildable part into Penny's base as far as I started out doing when I first got mine. So for an example when I set it up on the Provari I only screw the rebuildable part into the base until the pin is just a tiny little bit past flush with the 510 threads. Tiny bit. This lets Penny sit more or less fush and cuts off a lot of that air flow you are speaking of. Hope this helps. Let me know.
Chris
I find that using Penny on other mods that I can adjust the draw by not screwing the rebuildable part into Penny's base as far as I started out doing when I first got mine. So for an example when I set it up on the Provari I only screw the rebuildable part into the base until the pin is just a tiny little bit past flush with the 510 threads. Tiny bit. This lets Penny sit more or less fush and cuts off a lot of that air flow you are speaking of. Hope this helps. Let me know.
Chris
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The nice thing about the Penelope is that you can adjust the draw.
When you assemble or build your coil/wick screw the center pin down to the point it's almost flush with the 510 threading . The Penelope will sit deeper in your device and will give you tighter draw.
Just had an idea...we all know how the base of the Penelope can become challenging to remove from the tank section, especially if using the Kir Fanis clear tank (which I LOVE). I usually use a rubber band or a rubber glove to get some grip when undoing these two parts. I was thinkingggg it would look cool and (also add grip) if the surface of the bottom connector had some rough texture to it (much like the upper connection nut does). I might buy an extra base and have a machine shop modify it so that it has the same texture as the upper connection nut). I put a picture below (from the COV site) of the upper connection nut just to clarify what type of "grippy" surface I'm talking about. Imeo, if you see this post, I am wondering if would you consider making some of the Penelope bases available with this type of surface? How many people are into this modification?
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I had some fun in MS Paint to attempt to clarify what I am talking about. Please hold your applause regarding my skill
The black lines are supposed to show the grippy surface.
The black lines are supposed to show the grippy surface.
Actually, I much prefer the Penelope just as she is—whether in her formal SS dress, or her revealing sheer Kir creation—and with the high-polish base. I, too, use the fat rubber band trick and it makes taking the Penny apart effortless, so I think the knurled surface is not only unnecessary, but would cheapen the look! Seriously, it would make it look like a Vivi Nova Mini!
If mine gets stuck, I actually take those floppy silicone hot mats. Work great.
Don't get me wrong, I love Penelope as she is, was just tinkering around with an idea. There are some days when removing the tank is a bit more challenging. I'm not sure that it would cheapen the look, I think it would look pretty cool
although I have never used a vivi nova mini.
Hey, it was just my opinion 
Perhaps the knurled base could be done tastefully, and I might just change my mind!
As long as we're just tossing ideas around, wouldn't it be possible to take the Penelope base to some reasonably well-equipped machine shop and have it knurled? My guess would be that it wouldn't be too expensive ... ? Also, perhaps a milled treatment (like the edge of a silver dollar used to be) would be more distinctive? And perhaps the whole base wouldn't need to be knurled/milled ... perhaps a band around the middle of the base? Seems like that would be plenty to get a grip, and more decorative as well?
Perhaps the knurled base could be done tastefully, and I might just change my mind!As long as we're just tossing ideas around, wouldn't it be possible to take the Penelope base to some reasonably well-equipped machine shop and have it knurled? My guess would be that it wouldn't be too expensive ... ? Also, perhaps a milled treatment (like the edge of a silver dollar used to be) would be more distinctive? And perhaps the whole base wouldn't need to be knurled/milled ... perhaps a band around the middle of the base? Seems like that would be plenty to get a grip, and more decorative as well?
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Hey, it was just my opinion
As long as we're just tossing ideas around, wouldn't it be possible to take the Penelope base to some reasonably well-equipped machine shop and have it knurled? My guess would be that it wouldn't be too expensive ... ? Also, perhaps a milled treatment (like the edge of a silver dollar used to be) would be more distinctive? And perhaps the whole base wouldn't need to be knurled/milled ... perhaps a band around the middle of the base? Seems like that would be plenty to get a grip, and more decorative as well?
Hey, great idea about just having the middle part knurled! That's what I love about this community, always great feedback and building on ideas
Yeah I think sometime this week I will try to find a machine shop who would be able to do this. If I don't like it, I can always get another base. I imagine that there are many possible textures that would make it look pretty cool!
If you do it, please report back and post pictures! Now you've got me interested ...
If you do it, please report back and post pictures! Now you've got me interested ...
Oh I will have photos for sure! I think it would be an interesting little modification
Now I just have to find someone who can do it in LA.Hey, great idea about just having the middle part knurled! That's what I love about this community, always great feedback and building on ideas
It is not really possible to knurl only the center part of a cylinder, it's just the nature of how the machining is done. It is also a problem getting the part held in a lathe without damaging the threads although not impossible by any means. You would be more likely to find a laser shop willing to burn a few lines in it for grip and avoid most of the setup problems. If you put vertical banding on the top and base and they could match the wings in depth and color it would really look hot! Search "straight knurl" for the pattern I'm trying to describe, then when you find the shop willing to do it, post it up here so I can send them mine lol
no reason to do this lex my friend. Just replace the o-ring around Penelope's base with a smaller one. Penelope uses an 11x1,5 o-ring. Please put a 9x1,5 o-ring and unscrewing will be easy
no reason to do this lex my friend. Just replace the o-ring around Penelope's base with a smaller one. Penelope uses an 11x1,5 o-ring. Please put a 9x1,5 o-ring and unscrewing will be easy
Imeo, can you elaborate on that size a bit? Is that a 11 x 1 x 5mm o ring, or 11 x 1.5mm o ring? And are those the OD, ID, or CS measurements please? I too would love an easier method for disassembly, I busted a $30 kir tank taking mine apart the other night. The issue is, it all goes together nice and easy after a cleaning, but after juice swells the o rings, it can be a bear to take apart.
sorry for your loss WN. As for the o-ring, the existing one has 11mm internal diameter and 1,5mm width. Replace it with an o-ring that is again 1,5mm in width but 9mm or 10mm internal diameter
It happens, no big deal. Thanks for the quick answer Imeo, I really appreciate it sir.
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