Penelope V3

[CaptSteve]

Thank you Steliosss.

I've got a (mostly) working Penelope V3 now. I wrapped it while I was watching the video, still getting a dry hit now and again. So, couple more quick questions, if you don't mind.

Does the wick go down the channel all the way?
I've discovered that part of the problem is that I don't draw on it very hard, so I'm not really forcing the wick to wick, more hoping it'll wick by itself. It works on my Penelope V1, but the air flow is quite a bit smaller on the V1. On the V3 I get a lot of air. V3 feels almost like using a straw.

edit: Wrote coil instead of wick...oops.

The reason you're getting dry hits is that you've probably wrapped the coil too tight around the wick and it's restricting flow or you have the wick down the channels. You need to cut the wick short about flush or just extending past the top of the channels. Frankly this design works much better with microcoil and cotton instead of coil and silica wick. You certainly don't need to open the mouthpiece all the way.
I use thick VG juices and I only open the mouthpiece 4 turns and I don't get dry hits even with only 2 turns.

 

[Aal_]

Is it just me or the air flow is tighter on V3 than on V2? Not sure if it is because slots are opposite to air holes or air duct is tighter or new adjustable pin design. Still wide enough though

 

[Bigwhiterabbitt]

Just in from work and bustin a nut to get this baby up and running. Micro coil with cotton, 2mins flat.. Record for the Penelope..

Lotta variables here.. I use my Pennys on a Nemesis. To get the mods AFC to work correctly I have to wrap a thin slither of selotape round the top of the Penelope V2's 510 to cover the 2 holes in it. This seals the top of the Nemesis and allows the air to come directly up the 510 and be controlled by the mods AFC. For me anyway this makes it a smashing vape. This isn't necessary on the V1 because it doesn't have air channels cut into the base.

Forgot about the selotape and fired her up the way she came. .25m Kanthal, 6 turns around a cocktail stick, 1.3ohms with Boba's Bounty. Cotton cut just outside the deck and tucked back against the top of the channels (not in them). To me anyway a very airy draw, same as the V2 and a lot more than the V1. Damned thing kicks like a mule. 1st thought was .... I don't like this. Much harder hit than the V1 or V2 with my normal 1ohm coil but tones of flavour. Then I remembered the selotape. AFC working and a much tamer vape, smoother but a little less flavour than before. Bit dubious about the way I had the cotton set up but not a dry hit in sight and no flooding. Slightly different vape than the V1 or V2 but I have Martha Stewarts cotton hemp in those so expected it to be a bit different..

Tones of scope to play with this baby. Posts are quite high and would allow for duel coils one above the other (wait till Bishop gets his hands on this). Cotton and silica builds, possably hybrids with mesh. The machining on the deck and housing on this baby is nothing short of "ART" it's freakin mind blowing to think that Imeo cut this out of solid bits of metal..

Do I love my V1.. Hell Yea..
Do I love my V2.. Hell Yea..
Do i love my V3.. LOL...

 

[fsub]

The reason you're getting dry hits is that you've probably wrapped the coil too tight around the wick and it's restricting flow or you have the wick down the channels. You need to cut the wick short about flush or just extending past the top of the channels. Frankly this design works much better with microcoil and cotton instead of coil and silica wick. You certainly don't need to open the mouthpiece all the way.
I use thick VG juices and I only open the mouthpiece 4 turns and I don't get dry hits even with only 2 turns.

Have a pic with silica setup ???

Regards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[Xaiver]

For whatever reason, the silica wasn't wicking properly. I'll investigate more when I have more time. I mostly wanted to get it working so that I knew that I could make it work, otherwise I just spent a lot of money on something that I can't use.

It's working now, with the liquid control wide open.

My coils are the same as the ones I've made for V1 for the last however long it's been out (2 years?) except minus the NR wire. Haven't had a dry hit on that one in forever. Nothing wrong with the coil.

Problem I'm having is with the wicking, I'm using 2mm Silica on this build. Before I opened the liquid up all the way, it would vape for a good 2-3 long draws and then I'd get a dry one and have to do a few dry drags on it to get it liquid back up.

Like I said before, I don't suck on it very hard. I let the device do the wicking. V3 is very airy, so even if I'm trying to jump start the wick, I get a lung full of air before I've received a satisfactory vape. That said, with the liquid control wide open, I'm not having this issue.

I was mostly worried about leaking if I had the mouth piece loosened all the way, but it hasn't leaked. So, I've found a satisfactory way to make it work for now.

Air control would be nice, but that feature isn't on Penny, so I'm not too worried about it. I'll just deal with what I've got.

 

[CaptSteve]

Have a pic with silica setup ???

Regards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

No not really I only tried it once with silica and I now only use microcoils and cotton on these

 

[Beco]

I cleaned mine with hot water and soap-now I'm getting there-almost superb vape but I still taste some oil.

Setup with microcoil and cotton.
One shouldn't be afraid to open liquid control with Penelope v3-it's a must because the channels are not deep

 

[FogNL]

Frankly this design works much better with microcoil and cotton instead of coil and silica wick.

I recall reading in one of the threads here that Imeo is not in favor of micro coils?

If anything I bought my Penelope's for silica builds. I have mc-cotton setups in my Kayfuns too. Works great but for a lot of liquids I still prefer silica.

 

[Beco]

With the shallow channels I also think v3 is made for cotton only.

Also I would like a little stiffer draw.
Is there a way to make it stiffer?

 

[Itshak]

I recall reading in one of the threads here that Imeo is not in favor of micro coils?

If anything I bought my Penelope's for silica builds. I have mc-cotton setups in my Kayfuns too. Works great but for a lot of liquids I still prefer silica.

If you want only silica built for now maybe it's better to use the ribbon wire.
It's help for better wicking as it force less pressure on the wick,
And produce more flavor that may compensate for the bigger metal atty chamber.

For my preference silica built only work to my like on the ceramic atty's,
That how it turned out.

 

[Aal_]

I believe choking the wick is just a myth. I will try to prove it.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[Itshak]

We'll look forward to it.
Though it look not so do to the structure of the wick,
And to what result we had in the past,time after time.

The most interesting is to run it for long operation (few tanks) and see what come up.

 

[Aal_]

A guy proved that choking cotton is a myth. I will look for the thread.

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[Itshak]

But I was referring to silica.

 

[Itshak]

Cotton do the intricate space between fibers is very different
Compare to the sort of strait filaments of the silica.

 

[Aal_]

I know you were talking about silica. I think imeo in a video said you can wrap tight and he didn't have a problem.

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[Itshak]

But Imeo use unflavored liquid.
I tried that many time it's just don't work with Boba's and the like.
I ended up with build of carmelization all over the coil.

 

[Itshak]

Also I refere to the long run,becouse when the coil was new in the first half of the tank
It was sort of ok.
But with pressure on the wick I couldn't finish even one compleat tank of Boba's.
It was less with cleaner like e juice but work the same.
When I dubles the wick on the resistence and use ribbon I could run few tanks befor need for clean
Or new built.
So the kind of e juice we use also play a part

 

[Itshak]

Now I built all attys with cotton ( only Iatty in silica no wick problem there )
and it's history.

Even old Ithaka rebuildble I built with cotton (the coil is ready made wire not micro),
But it's look like the part of silica is behind me. Sort of.

 

[Ariel_MX]

For whatever reason, the silica wasn't wicking properly. I'll investigate more when I have more time. I mostly wanted to get it working so that I knew that I could make it work, otherwise I just spent a lot of money on something that I can't use.

It's working now, with the liquid control wide open.

My coils are the same as the ones I've made for V1 for the last however long it's been out (2 years?) except minus the NR wire. Haven't had a dry hit on that one in forever. Nothing wrong with the coil.

Problem I'm having is with the wicking, I'm using 2mm Silica on this build. Before I opened the liquid up all the way, it would vape for a good 2-3 long draws and then I'd get a dry one and have to do a few dry drags on it to get it liquid back up.

Like I said before, I don't suck on it very hard. I let the device do the wicking. V3 is very airy, so even if I'm trying to jump start the wick, I get a lung full of air before I've received a satisfactory vape. That said, with the liquid control wide open, I'm not having this issue.

I was mostly worried about leaking if I had the mouth piece loosened all the way, but it hasn't leaked. So, I've found a satisfactory way to make it work for now.

Air control would be nice, but that feature isn't on Penny, so I'm not too worried about it. I'll just deal with what I've got.

Hi Xaiver,

as manny wrote in this post:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/519428-penelope-v3-11.html#post12496837

That method of cutting the wick flush with the housing is known as the "MrKrinkle's" method (no wick down the channels, only at top).

Use double wick at top and cut the excess, so no wick should go down in the channels:

Ensure you are cutting the wick flush with the top, if you leave the top wicks too long, the mouthpiece tends to push in the channels the excess wick.

The idea is that the channels should be free of wick, so liquid can freely flow up through the channels to reach the wick.

I have been using this method on my Ithaka with upgrade part, with two strands of silica at top and ribbon Kanthal wire (0.4mm), that method works very good when you want to use silica.

I think that you do not have that problem on Penelope V1 (for example) because the channels are bigger and with a square form, so there is always a little space by which the air can flow inside the tank when is needed, while the wick is absorbing the liquid.

In the case of the upgrade part for the Ithaka and for Penelope V3, the channels for the wick are rounded, so the wick fits in there, leaving not space to the air to flow inside the tank.

So for a normal silica setup on Ithaka with upgraded part and Penelope V3, "MrKrinkle's" method (with double wick at top) is the solution, of course, according to my personal conclusions and experiments, give it a try.