Polarity on mech

[p7willm]

I was sitting here thinking about electricity and I can't think of anything that would be different if I put the battery in a mech backwards. Of course it is nice to get in the habit of putting it in the right way so I will do it all the time with the regulated mods who will not work or will break with a backwards battery.

 

[stumpfreeman]

It is fine, I do it all the time with my GUS.

 

[RWDY]

Nipple Top batteries will cause some mods to fire constantly if put in backwards.

 

[pdib]

the metal body of a battery is all negative/ground. If there is a tear or missing part in your battery's jacket and it's resting against the metal body of the mod (with the battery in backwards) . . . .. you've got a full-on hard short.

. . . . . methinks

 

[steved5600]

RWDY and pdib beat me to it they are both correct.

 

[montara]

Not a safe habit to get into, best to install as the modder designed.

 

[stumpfreeman]

Nipple Top Batteries will cause some mods to fire constantly if put in backwards.

True, you have to make sure there is enough clearance in the switch so the + terminal isn't making constant contact with the switch pin.

 

[p7willm]

Thanks for the thoughts.

Some of my mods probably would fire with a nipple in backwards.

There would be a hard short as opposed to a constant fire with the ripped covering.

I guess that answers the question. In some cases even a mech mod cares which way you put the battery in.

 

[Rickajho]

the metal body of a battery is all negative/ground. If there is a tear or missing part in your battery's jacket and it's resting against the metal body of the mod (with the battery in backwards) . . . .. you've got a full-on hard short.

. . . . . methinks

Recently tried out a K1000 e-pipe and the Kamry instructions tell you to do just that - by inserting the battery positive toward the switch. If you saw that switch design... yeah, that's a really bad idea that could easily result in the problem you describe if there was damage to the battery jacket. Short version: I think Kamry screwed up the instructions in their manual-ette.

Doing it according to the Kamry instructions doesn't make a lot of sense by either the design of the switch, or by creating a "center post negative" device - which flies in the face of current industry standards. The Kamry instructions for the K1000 have created problems for people trying to use in-line voltage meters or the likes of the nhaler VV Silencer as well, frying devices that don't have reverse polarity protection.

On a purely electrical level - in a mech, no it doesn't matter. But you have to take into consideration switch and battery contact design of the mech as well.