Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!

Status
Not open for further replies.

pAth77

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 26, 2010
844
875
Bay Area
Stopped and grabbed a new solid brass screw today. Sanded it flat and cut it to length...
View attachment 204911

Skipped the washer in favor of a brass nut to lock it into place.
View attachment 204912

I've got the throw reduced to about 2mm, just shy of the cap ridges, making insanely easy to fire in any orientation. (Yes, it will fire if stood on end w/o locking it.)

The increased thread contact has dropped what little resistance there was... I just installed a 1/2 charged battery (3.68 volts) and its hitting harder than any other mech I've used with a fully charged battery.

My happy is through the roof! Now, if only I could get a slightly longer version of the original rhodium version... :D

It's odd that you had to do that much in order for you to get it to fire. With AW 18490s, I use two thick o-rings under the battery and 4 brass washers under the rhodium contact. When standing upright on a table it will not fire, but anything past that and it fires. I'm glad that you found a work-around though.
 

jasl90

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 30, 2012
1,688
1,754
Jacksonville, FL
It's odd that you had to do that much in order for you to get it to fire. With AW 18490s, I use two thick o-rings under the battery and 4 brass washers under the rhodium contact. When standing upright on a table it will not fire, but anything past that and it fires. I'm glad that you found a work-around though.

Thanks. :)

I suspect that I got an older model with a slightly raised center pin. Attys seem to sit a little higher than they do on my other pv's...
 

Freckle

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Nov 8, 2011
856
814
Mississippi
I wonder if that is something that will be addressed in the newer run of 18500 precise + mods. I really was considering an 18500, but all those washers trying to get a battery to fit just sounds like a headache. I don't like to fiddle! I only rebuild my atomizers once a month, maybe once every two months. Some don't ask, just don't ask! I go to playing with it, I will break it.

Dear ELA, I sure hope you meet my expectations. Simple no fuss, pop in a battery and GO!
 

pAth77

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 26, 2010
844
875
Bay Area
Thanks. :)

I suspect that I got an older model with a slightly raised center pin. Attys seem to sit a little higher than they do on my other pv's...

I believe that you mean a newer P+. I'm pretty sure that the older ones had lower center posts. How many and what size o-rings do you have under the battery? And does the battery jiggle at all?

But yes, I agree that a longer contact screw would solve all of your problems.

I wonder if that is something that will be addressed in the newer run of 18500 precise + mods. I really was considering an 18500, but all those washers trying to get a battery to fit just sounds like a headache. I don't like to fiddle! I only rebuild my atomizers once a month, maybe once every two months. Some don't ask, just don't ask! I go to playing with it, I will break it.

Dear ELA, I sure hope you meet my expectations. Simple no fuss, pop in a battery and GO!

I think that jasl might have gotten one of the very very very few P+18500s that has a problem. Mine has never had issues, and the only time that you will ever have to fiddle with it is when you break it down to clean it. It's definitely easier than rebuilding a coil. Have no fear, SuperT mods always surpass expectations!
 
Last edited:

ukeman

PV Masher
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2010
7,718
5,129
Kauai, Hawaii
really? other than this, its the first time i've heard of it... in fact the site says P+ was made for a specific battery (the best imo: aw imr) and i have had no trouble ... zero.
some want to mod the button throw for some reason, but no, i don't think this is the norm...
I wonder if that is something that will be addressed in the newer run of 18500 precise + mods. I really was considering an 18500, but all those washers trying to get a battery to fit just sounds like a headache. I don't like to fiddle! I only rebuild my atomizers once a month, maybe once every two months. Some don't ask, just don't ask! I go to playing with it, I will break it.

Dear ELA, I sure hope you meet my expectations. Simple no fuss, pop in a battery and GO!
 

Freckle

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Nov 8, 2011
856
814
Mississippi
Well that makes me feel better, cause I love my p+16 and p+10, love them. The button is the best bottom button I have ever came across. I was watching a review once and the person had mentioned the horns on the bottom cap, like they were a burden to stick your fingers between. I do not have small hands, nor small fingers, so that person had me worried. Well they had me worried for nothing, cause I love that button, and I love those horns.
 

icucme2

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 15, 2012
1,823
2,386
42
Costa Mesa, ca
Im looking at the battery options on super t site. I see 2 18650. But one has more "mah" than the other. Any of those would fit right? Makes more sense to go with higher "mah". What says u? This will be my first mechanical..

I know for sure i want two 18350's, for stealth mode. Then i want a couple of the bigger batteries for home use, more vape time? Whatcha think
 

jasl90

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 30, 2012
1,688
1,754
Jacksonville, FL
I wonder if that is something that will be addressed in the newer run of 18500 precise + mods. I really was considering an 18500, but all those washers trying to get a battery to fit just sounds like a headache. I don't like to fiddle! I only rebuild my atomizers once a month, maybe once every two months. Some don't ask, just don't ask! I go to playing with it, I will break it.

Dear ELA, I sure hope you meet my expectations. Simple no fuss, pop in a battery and GO!

The center pin thing... I believe so. Not sure if I read it earlier in this thread or not, but I did see where it was brought up and Dave acknowledged that the pins are now set lower and offered to repress the pin for the person.

As for the washers and o-rings... The device appears to be engineered to take batteries from a variety of manufacturers, including those that have pcb protection.

The washers are just a very simple, elegant way to allow you to adjust the throw of the button to suit your preference.

Once it's setup there shouldn't be any reason to mess with it again... Unless you are cleaning it or you change battery brands.

As for breaking it... If you try, you may be able scratch it, but breaking it would actually require some heavy duty equipment.

As for the ELA... Between the adjustable center pin and the telescoping tube... Should make for a perfect fit for any battery you choose. Can't recall if any changes were made to the bottom switch in terms of the throw adjustment.
 

ukeman

PV Masher
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2010
7,718
5,129
Kauai, Hawaii
Im looking at the battery options on super t site. I see 2 18650. But one has more "mah" than the other. Any of those would fit right? Makes more sense to go with higher "mah". What says u? This will be my first mechanical..

I know for sure i want two 18350's, for stealth mode. Then i want a couple of the bigger batteries for home use, more vape time? Whatcha think

I'm tough on my devices and my batts... i haven't found a better batt for my uses than the AW IMR's... I've also vaped nothing but LR atomizers for years, and now SLR .7 to 1.3 Ohms which even moreso require IMR batts.
I've tried eFest IMR, and even MNKE, but none as good as AW IMR imo.
Dave did a thread on Panasonic high drains and AW served better for my needs... thanks to his tests and graphs.
The proof has been "in the puddin" imo... they just have more spunk and last longer (than the efest)

The 18650 2000mah is a newer version than the 1600mah, but some (me!) prefer the 1600... harder hitting. Glad he's carrying them and at decent prices.

btw, don't expect length specs to be uniform even between AW IMR 18650's ... its just something about how they're made; i've seen youtube examples how the lengths can vary by a mm or two, ... but not enough to drive me crazy ;)
 

jasl90

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 30, 2012
1,688
1,754
Jacksonville, FL
I believe that you mean a newer P+. I'm pretty sure that the older ones had lower center posts. How many and what size o-rings do you have under the battery? And does the battery jiggle at all?

But yes, I agree that a longer contact screw would solve all of your problems.



I think that jasl might have gotten one of the very very very few P+18500s that has a problem. Mine has never had issues, and the only time that you will ever have to fiddle with it is when you break it down to clean it. It's definitely easier than rebuilding a coil. Have no fear, SuperT mods always surpass expectations!

I've two 1/16th inch rubber washers under the battery and its a perfect fit. No rattle at all and no force required to fully seat the top cap. Also bear in mind that I got it from the classifieds and it didn't come with any o-rings or washers, so I don't really have any idea what size the large v/s small sizes are.

And for the record, I have no complaints at all. It just took me a bit to figure out what I needed to get it working the way I wanted to work. I'm sure if I had the original bag-o-parts I'd have had it in a minute or two.
 

pAth77

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 26, 2010
844
875
Bay Area
I've two 1/16th inch rubber washers under the battery and its a perfect fit. No rattle at all and no force required to fully seat the top cap. Also bear in mind that I got it from the classifieds and it didn't come with any o-rings or washers, so I don't really have any idea what size the large v/s small sizes are.

And for the record, I have no complaints at all. It just took me a bit to figure out what I needed to get it working the way I wanted to work. I'm sure if I had the original bag-o-parts I'd have had it in a minute or two.

I believe that the o-ring sizes that David includes are 0.10 and 0.07. If you PM me your address, I'll search through my bag of extras (if I can find em) and send you some.
 

jasl90

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 30, 2012
1,688
1,754
Jacksonville, FL
I believe that the o-ring sizes that David includes are 0.10 and 0.07. If you PM me your address, I'll search through my bag of extras (if I can find em) and send you some.

That's an extremely generous offer. Thank you! :)
But... In all honesty, I can't imagine that I'd use them. The two washers I have in there now are a perfect fit.

Here is what they look like...
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1367387145.739915.jpg
 

icucme2

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 15, 2012
1,823
2,386
42
Costa Mesa, ca
The 18650 2000mah is a newer version than the 1600mah, but some (me!) prefer the 1600... harder hitting. Glad he's carrying them and at decent prices.

So the "400 mah" difference between the 2 u dont think warrants a big enough difference to choose the 2000mah? From ur experience the 1600mah has more punch? Cycling 2 at a time should be good huh
 

vaptamist

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 14, 2011
3,447
6,530
FL
From another thread:

It's kind of a toss up, the 1600mAh i would recommend over the 2000mAh for all mechanical as it holds higher voltage under load, but a kicked device which draws down to 3.3V, you may see additional run time with the 2000mAh.

Wish I could find the graph where he tested the two. From what I remember it was mostly neck and neck from 4.2volts down to 3.3v with the 1600 holding a higher voltage under load. Just before the 3.3v "cutoff" point, the 2000 mah battery pulled ahead. The rest of the 400 mah difference was under 3.3v, which is mostly unusable in mechanical mods. To be honest, most people would have changed the battery way before then (I know I swap mine out well before it reaches that point).

Just a further note - the difference between the two is so negligible you could probably do a blind test between the two and you wouldn't be able to tell which one was which.
 
Last edited:

vaptamist

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 14, 2011
3,447
6,530
FL
Ahah! Found it!

From http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8144-2-cent-safety-p-18650-a.html#post7083145

David: "In my load testing, the AW IMR 1600mAh outperforms the AW IMR 2000mAh and will work better with the LR coils. The 1600mAh holds higher voltage under load then the 2000mAh so i'd recommend it over the 2000mAh version. How thick is the 2 cent fuse, it may work with the IMR 1600mAh if you run one thin oring in the bottom of the chamber, don't know, i've never tried. Though you don't need a protection circuit with the IMR chemistry.

It's really easy to get sucked into total mAh, but what matters is useable mah under load and how much higher it holds voltage under load:

In this chart you can see how the 1600mAh holds up to two tenths higher voltage under load then the 2000mAh version"

1600v2000.jpg
 

MattyB1503

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 13, 2012
947
1,328
OC, CA
uhhhh, second batch.

I need to stay off this thread for my own sanity....

Just vaped through 2 mils of Maha Ras before I noticed what I was doing, haha.

The features and build quality that have been laid down in this thread are insane!!!

And no offense to MMV but, close your ears Poldiac, he may be headed for the calssies...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread