I think probably true, particularly the craftsmanship, but with counterfeiting being 99.9% of their GNP, it might take a keen eye to tell the difference.
Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!
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I think probably true, particularly the craftsmanship, but with counterfeiting being 99.9% of their GNP, it might take a keen eye to tell the difference.
I can't believe I was fortunate enough to meet the right guy at the right time for a T1 too. When I received it I knew that I would never need to hunt any unicorn again.
Congrats!
Being the stand up guy that David is he offered for me to send it to him for a check, polish, and for his magic touch even though I was not the original purchaser..
I did send it to him and it came back like it was brand spanking new and he didn't charge me a cent!
Mine's in such great shape!
Shameless thread plug -
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/super-t-manufacturing/428685-gallery-t1-pictures.html
Was the T1 David's first mech?
Actually, the chronology of all of David's work would be nice to know.
Actually, the chronology of all of David's work would be nice to know.
Yes, then the Super 6.
A chronology would be neat, with T-Tips, VapeMates, Kiklets etc. included.
Agree, I'm sure someone has that history locked up in the ol' noggin they can share.
Has anyone else had any issues with electric shocks? On two occasions, a sudden shock has traveled from the battery and burnt the living hell out of my fingers. It feels like a super concentrated bolt of heat - hot enough to leave a mark. I'm using a Spheroid with a 1.1ohm coil, and AW IMR 18500. Any idea what might be happening?
I dunno, could be a very daunting task. I was just reading back in time...there was the apparent vaporware T2, the Mini-T (precursor to the P10) in there, references to nebulous things unseen but not necessarily unmade, rough reading.
It's the result of arcing in the button. Take the button apart and give it a good cleaning.
I dunno, could be a very daunting task. I was just reading back in time...there was the apparent vaporware T2, the Mini-T (precursor to the P10) in there, references to nebulous things unseen but not necessarily unmade, rough reading.
The T2 never came about nor did the Mini T.. At least not under those names..
T1
Super Six
Precise 10440
After that I am not sure.. T-Tips would be hard to track as David has had many. The VapeMate I think was shortly after the S6..
Edit to add: As far as T-Tips go, back in the early Super T days I believe only the shorty and regular tips were sold.. SS, Aluminum and Brass flavors.. At least that's what I remember from my T1 / S6 days..
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I guess we will have to wait for him to chime in... As far as I remember / know the mini T never came about -- under that name at least.
Maybe it was a prototype that was smuggled out of David's compound!
Holy moly, seriously? So the arc is actually traveling from the bottom of the button OUTSIDE the mod, and to the top of the battery?
I guess we will have to wait for him to chime in... As far as I remember / know the mini T never came about -- under that name at least.
Maybe it was a prototype that was smuggled out of David's compound!
The person who sold it said it was a Mini-T - however, from what I remember, the Mini-T basically just became the Precise 10440 anyway. Sadly, I didn't have my brass capped Precise 10440 at the time to do a side by side.
That sounds about right.. I also just remembered (it's been 3 1/2 years LOL) that the T2 became the Super Six or was scrapped for the S6..
Here's the closest I can do for a side by side
"Mini-T" on the left, and P10 on the right.
Also, this unintentionally is another left/right comparison. iPhone 4 camera on the left, iPhone 5 camera on the right
"Mini-T" on the left, and P10 on the right.
Also, this unintentionally is another left/right comparison. iPhone 4 camera on the left, iPhone 5 camera on the right
The OG Precise 10440 was sold with brass or SS cap options if my memory serves me right..
What the person called a Mini T was actually an OG Precise 10440
What the person called a Mini T was actually an OG Precise 10440
Oh, I know. I've had a standard Precise 10440 with SS caps as well.
I think what probably happened was that the person who purchased it originally was following the development back when it was called the Mini-T, and picked up one of the first run of the Precise 10440. I believe the name was changed as part of the release announcement.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-introducing-precise-super-t.html#post1070365
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Not really... The rhodium pin contacting the battery isn't the only moving part in play. The current moves from the neg end of the battery to the rhodium pin, the main button section, to the button collar, to the tube.
If there is any resistance in any of these connection it can result in heat or arcing. Two of these connections are made with a threaded interface (rhodium contact screws into the main button and button collar screws into the main tube). As long as those two are clean, they shouldn't pose any issues.
That leaves the interfaces between the battery and the rhodium contact and the main button and the button collar.
The battery/rhodium contact shouldn't be a problem unless there is dirt or oil coming between them preventing a solid connection. Beyond that, the fact that the contact is pressed directly against the bottom of the battery is enough to assure solid contact...
Leaving the "usual suspect"... The connection between the button and the button collar.
To look at it, it looks like there would be all kinds of surface area to make a solid electrical connection but, in reality, the actual contact area is very small. It's basically a cylinder going through a hole that slightly wider than the cylinder... Or,looking at it straight on, a circle inside a slightly wider circle.
When you do this, the two circles can only make contact at a single, tiny point.
It's very easy to move or break that point during the button press. It's in the micro second that the two circles break contact but are still a thousands of a millimeter close to each other that the arc occurs.
To make matters worse, the arc leaves behind carbon residue which in turn leads to more arcing.
The solution is the clean the button and inside of the collar really well to remove any existing carbon residue and, when firing, give a slight lateral push to force the button into the side of the collar.
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