Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!

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Agreed - but that also means there is a problem with conductivity if the spring is carrying anything other than negligible current. Yes - the spring CAN carry current - but it SHOULDN'T, and that is what we are shooting for. Voltage / current take the path of least resistance - if it is taking a path through a spring, as opposed to the 2 large wonderfully plated conductors that directly contact the battery - then there is a PROBLEM.

There isn't a problem with conductivity per-se, the "problem" is is the ever increasing (or decreasing as the case may be) of lower and lower sub ohm coils, which are essentially a short in of them selves as they are getting such low ohm, which is creating extreme demands on mods mechanical switches something that everyone in vaping can attest to that didn't really exist, even a year ago. The spring is .023, so it can carry amperage. The switch is a dual ground design, the spring and friction ground (as are all mods who've adopted super t's switch design, which is pretty much all bottom button mods now use the design Super T pioneered, with the switch making direct contact with the battery and a dual ground design with friction of the button with the body/bottom cap and the spring).

These sub ohm coils require a very clean switch (see above by what I mean by clean) and I am no recommending those having warm button issues when running sub ohm coils to now run two interlaced springs to carry the high current demand .
 

wfo_ak

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I agree on that as well in theory. What gives me pause is the hot button fix by adding a second spring. Ideally it shouldn't matter, but it appears to so to my thinking there must something going on with current passing through the button. People with dirty buttons and not considering it a problem maybe? I didn't until I started looking at all the problems anavid was having. Something else all together that hasn't been thought of yet? Maybe it's one of those things that snowballs on itself and once you start seeing it need to get it back to new condition and start over, then just follow a better cleaning regime. I just don't want to have to take sandpaper to it too often...


Agreed - but that also means there is a problem with conductivity if the spring is carrying anything other than negligible current. Yes - the spring CAN carry current - but it SHOULDN'T, and that is what we are shooting for. Voltage / current take the path of least resistance - if it is taking a path through a spring, as opposed to the 2 large wonderfully plated conductors that directly contact the battery - then there is a PROBLEM.
 

wfo_ak

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So that could definitely be a contributing factor for me then. If I were just high enough on resistance to not get a hot button, but see an exaggerated effect from dirt or a quicker buildup on the button? Sounds plausible to me.

Will try with two OEM springs tonight after giving the button a very good cleaning and see where that gets me.
 

Draconian

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Maybe the issue is, as David alluded to, sub ohming? I generally run Kayfun and the like on cotton - 1.4-2 ohms or so - and it's a great vape. Never a warm button (unless I short the center pin, of course). I ran a quick voltage drop test using my regular build - and with and without the spring, I see the same values - the switch is handling the current. Would be curious to try with low resistance build...hmmmm (recognizing that voltage drop testing is...sometimes dubious, but it's what I got...)
 

Draconian

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Sounds like a plan, and another reason why I don't get into the sub-ohm craze as well. Running more power than those chunks of metal can handle - well, that isn't something I need next to my face. I used to think power was the thing - and that was just 20 watts or so (nothing compared to what they are doing today). For myself - found that while the clouds were impressive, the flavor was blown out (depending on the juice) and most of the stuff that I was vaping had a sweet spot 8-11 watts - and that was perfect for a cotton and microcoil build. Folks can have their sub-ohming - but please keep the billowing clouds in private - vaping has a bad reputation as it is by a lot of folks that "think" it's smoking or whatnot. Eventually - something REALLY bad will happen when attempting to push that much power - stacked batteries on a shorted center pin or whatnot - and then watch the government REALLY come after vaping.
Oh, and David, are you going to be making more flat bottom caps for the ELA?


There isn't a problem with conductivity per-se, the "problem" is is the ever increasing (or decreasing as the case may be) of lower and lower sub ohm coils, which are essentially a short in of them selves as they are getting such low ohm, which is creating extreme demands on mods mechanical switches something that everyone in vaping can attest to that didn't really exist, even a year ago. The spring is .023, so it can carry amperage. The switch is a dual ground design, the spring and friction ground (as are all mods who've adopted super t's switch design, which is pretty much all bottom button mods now use the design Super T pioneered, with the switch making direct contact with the battery and a dual ground design with friction of the button with the body/bottom cap and the spring).

These sub ohm coils require a very clean switch (see above by what I mean by clean) and I am no recommending those having warm button issues when running sub ohm coils to now run two interlaced springs to carry the high current demand .
 

t8kiteasy

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I do not know about the sub-ohming thing being the cause.I usually tend to run my immortalizer at .5 on my ELA on a daily basis and while I have had those problems anavidfan has,my ELA is functioning normally again after the O-ring change I made in the bottom.I have had those problems before also,again like anavidfan has but,after a good cleaning,no liquid,just a towel.the ELA again functioned fine.
 

Draconian

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I'm much the same way with the cleaning - most mine get are a pure as I can get alcohol wipe down, and, of course cleaning brass/copper / silver contacts in the mods that have them. Most everything body wise is stainless steel - doesn't need much of anything. Keep the threads and contact surfaces clean, and don't goop everything up with noalox as I have found that it is rarely needed at all. Keep everything important clean -but haven't found a need to be .... about it either - just an occasional cleaning. Then again, I rotate mods a ton as..well...I broke smoking habit by picking up a mod collecting habit...oh well....

I do not know about the sub-ohming thing being the cause.I usually tend to run my immortalizer at .5 on my ELA on a daily basis and while I have had those problems anavidfan has,my ELA is functioning normally again after the O-ring change I made in the bottom.I have had those problems before also,again like anavidfan has but,after a good cleaning,no liquid,just a towel.the ELA again functioned fine.
 

wfo_ak

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I normally run right around 20ish watts I think, maybe a bit less. Nothing insane but not a particularly light load either.

O-ring change definitely helped my out quite a bit, got rid of a lot of the trouble. My button still gets dirty pretty fast though. Was doing pretty much the same thing, just take it apart and wipe it down and never really considered it much of a problem. Really started looking at it more after anavidfan's problems, and just a desire not to take my button off so frequently to clean it.
 

Nach

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There isn't a problem with conductivity per-se, the "problem" is is the ever increasing (or decreasing as the case may be) of lower and lower sub ohm coils, which are essentially a short in of them selves as they are getting such low ohm, which is creating extreme demands on mods mechanical switches something that everyone in vaping can attest to that didn't really exist, even a year ago. The spring is .023, so it can carry amperage. The switch is a dual ground design, the spring and friction ground (as are all mods who've adopted super t's switch design, which is pretty much all bottom button mods now use the design Super T pioneered, with the switch making direct contact with the battery and a dual ground design with friction of the button with the body/bottom cap and the spring).

These sub ohm coils require a very clean switch (see above by what I mean by clean) and I am no recommending those having warm button issues when running sub ohm coils to now run two interlaced springs to carry the high current demand .

I tell you what, David. After 9 months of daily use, no cleaning of any real measure amount, I have been running coils down to .49 ohms on the ELA and I've rarely gotten a hot button. I may have been zapped with an arc once or twice, but that was my fault :) I've never had any problems with mine. Granted, I know what I'm doing more than say the average vaping populous. I find it best to just use ELA and do only the maintenance necessary. And talk about never cleaning this mod.... here was a picture from a vape meet I went to last month. There's is only one shiny mod in the photo and its the one that's DIRTY! :)

yaFC1ab.jpg


To ELA!! One Damn Good Mod!
 
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Riverboat

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I tell you what, David. After 9 months of daily use, no cleaning of any real measure amount, I have been running coils down to .49 ohms on the ELA and I've rarely gotten a hot button. I may have been zapped with an arc once or twice, but that was my fault :) I've never had any problems with mine. Granted, I know what I'm doing more than say the average vaping populous. I find it best to just use ELA and do only the maintenance necessary. And talk about never cleaning this mod....
To ELA!! One Damn Good Mod!
I have experienced the same results....No hot button even when running a 0.8 ohm coil... Cleaning? Other then the atomizer connection treads it is unnecessary... As for the compression band, the only thing your wiping off is oxidation...I don't think its a good idea to constantly take it on and off as it doesn't really need to be cleaned... I have had my ELA since June 2013 and I have never done it.. My ELA fires flawlessly every time.... :2c:
 

wfo_ak

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The only part I need to regularly clean is the button, still wondering about why that is. Running between a .8 and 1.0 coil normally, and never have felt a hot button. Sometimes the button feels almost like it's pulsing or wiggling when I press it though. An odd description but best I can come up with is it feels like it has a bad case of gas...

Washed and wiped the button down about 6 hours ago and can see buildup on it already if I look at it closely. Maybe I'll try the fine sandpaper tonight.
 

anavidfan

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The only part I need to regularly clean is the button, still wondering about why that is. Running between a .8 and 1.0 coil normally, and never have felt a hot button. Sometimes the button feels almost like it's pulsing or wiggling when I press it though. An odd description but best I can come up with is it feels like it has a bad case of gas...

Washed and wiped the button down about 6 hours ago and can see buildup on it already if I look at it closely. Maybe I'll try the fine sandpaper tonight.

I get that most of the time, sometimes its an auidable buzz. I dont have arc marks and its not my atty, because I can put it on my Simplicity or Natural and performs perfectly . I dont know what is going on. My polished ELA was working flawlessly for over a day and now its loosing voltage again, hot button, buzzing. Satin is fine.

What I did notice when I looked at my button contact is that there is a protrusion on one of the corners that sticks out. Now I dont know if it came that way , or if I did it when I used a flat head to tighten it down like in the video I saw, but it is leaving a mark on my batteries and a dot where the protrusion is. Thats the only difference between the satin and the polished. I wish I could get a replacement bottom contact so I could switch them and see if that is the problem. My Satin does not buzz or vibrate so that is the only thing that I can deduce.
 

wfo_ak

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Try putting the contact from satin on there instead and see? I'm still thinking bad connection from button to housing for some reason. I'm going to try the fine sandpaper cleaning in mine tonight I think and see what that does.

I don't see any arc marks on mine either, but at a loss as to what else would do that, my contact is nice and flat on top. If a protrusion on there was the main culprit I would think you wouldn't get enough current through it to get a hot button.

ETA: I get a day or so out of mine with a simple button wipe down clean before it acts up again so sounds like it matches your problems fairly well.
 
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Draconian

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Hope swapping out the button works for you. Don't see how it could be the cause, but...whatever works. Sometimes strange things happen.
If it doesn't work - I would swap top cap next - 510 connector has 1 o-ring. If it gets close enough or touches - intermittent short or dead short - and the symptoms of hot button and the like are casued by a short (excessive current).
Hopefully though, the button works, I can scratch my head as to why, and you will have a working mod.
 
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