Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!
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I recently got a dna20 mod, and it's a really good way to help with the volts vs watts vs ohms thing.
With a variable watt device, you slap on your atti, it tells you the res (for ex 2.0ohms) you set the watts at whatever you want (many like 10, I like 12.5) up to 20 watts, and when you fire it up, it tells you how many volts it requires to achieve those watts for that resistance...the thing missing here is the amps which is basically how fast your battery is being depleted.
L
1.3 to 1.6 is perfecto for 4.2v (3.7) batteries, imo. Lower than that and you're either going to burn your juice, or your fingers. 
But I haven't tried sub-ohm vaping on gennys yet, so that might be a different story.
But I haven't tried sub-ohm vaping on gennys yet, so that might be a different story.
And why are they called 3.7v when they actually go up to 4.2v? It is a mystery.
And I have to add:
3.7V batteries charge up to about 4.2V and can discharge down to 3.2V (not recommended for optimum battery life). David has posted some great charts (found in this forum or on his website) that illustrate the voltage drops during discharge (i.e. battery use). As KillWatts says, using the equation I posted before and given a mod's voltage drop, I'd recommend resistance somewhere between 1.3-1.6 ohms.
I hope this helps.
Edit: I calculated (not to mention that I rounded up from 3.2v to discourage decreased battery life) according to the widely accepted range of 8-10 watts recommended for optimum vaping on single coil setups. Dual coils may differ due to--obviously--more coil (thus slower heating) and differing wicking speeds.
3.7V batteries charge up to about 4.2V and can discharge down to 3.2V (not recommended for optimum battery life). David has posted some great charts (found in this forum or on his website) that illustrate the voltage drops during discharge (i.e. battery use). As KillWatts says, using the equation I posted before and given a mod's voltage drop, I'd recommend resistance somewhere between 1.3-1.6 ohms.
I hope this helps.
Edit: I calculated (not to mention that I rounded up from 3.2v to discourage decreased battery life) according to the widely accepted range of 8-10 watts recommended for optimum vaping on single coil setups. Dual coils may differ due to--obviously--more coil (thus slower heating) and differing wicking speeds.
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Just do like I did in my video.... just take 1 second hits lol!
My sweet spot used to be ~8W...
But sub ohm coils actually run cooler at higher watts than a standard or high res coil. But hey, its about adjusting to the performance. I've gotten used to it very quickly.
I understand your point Nach, nothing to go wrong.... The sub ohm really works well, but until the battery drops enough in voltage its aHOT
Thats why I prefer Kicks or VV.....consistant vape
My sweet spot used to be ~8W...
But sub ohm coils actually run cooler at higher watts than a standard or high res coil. But hey, its about adjusting to the performance. I've gotten used to it very quickly.
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I just had to check what the price was. Holy Canoli, I bet your wallet is hurting! 50% markup!
Yes, just to be clear, my dealers put in orders and get in line just like everyone else. We do not show favoritism to dealers as Cloud 9 is painfully aware after waiting over 4 months to get their order. I am just about into March on my orders, so Cloud 9 vaping has been waiting longer than any individual who currently has a preorder in directly with Super T.
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Ok I did an experimant.... ELA with Kick set @ 10 watts... 3.0 ohm coil--4 hits--Atomizer body warn to touch
ELA with Kick set @ 10 watts...0.8 ohm coil--4 hits--Atomizer body hot to touch
The sub ohm atomizer body was much hotter to the touch when running at the same wattage... Plus the 3.0 ohms vapor was smoother and just as dense.....
It might take a few miliseconds longer to heat up buy it does not get as hot....3.0 ohm uses more volts but less amps to produce the same wattage.. Its got to be the high amps that produce more heat.. You know what they say about electricty...Its not the volts that will kill you its the amperage!
David can chime in and clear this up....
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Yes, but does the Kick limit high voltage? For 0.8 ohm coil, the Kick would have to limit your battery's voltage to 2.8 volts to arrive at 10 watts. It sounds more like the Kick is boosting the voltage on your 3 ohm coil to get you to 10 watts; but is simply passing through your battery's native voltage and giving you 21-22 watts on your 0.8 ohm coil. That's just a guess, though.
When using an inline voltage meter the 0.8 ohm coil/Kicked reads at 2.9 volts=10.5 watts
When using an inline voltage meter the 3.0 ohm coil/Kicked reads at 5.5 volts =10.08 watts
Kicks are rated at 10 watts but do go over 0.5 watts sometimes.... The 0.8 coil might off by+/- 0.1 ohms...I have no why to tell the exact resistance... I hooked it up to my Provari set at 2.9 volts, it wont fire it due to amp limitation...When you check the resistance it gives a reading of Lo....
All I can tell you is the 0.8 ohm produces hotter vapor than a 3.0 ohm coil set at the same wattage when fired on a Kicked ELA...
And to set the record straight the 0.8 ohm atty used @ 3.7 volts produces great vapor... Its funny when I switched from a 3.7 volt mod using 1.5 ohm attys to a VV mod runing at 10+ watts I thought it was to much...made me kind of queasy...I got use to it and now getting use to the sub ohm coil... Im starting to like it....It does kick ... on a mechincal 3.7 volt mod, especially my Shockwave with the big 26650 battery....last a long time
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I posted a pic of a ELA i ran into her in San Diego at a vape shop. It wasnt for sale though.
I just hope the person takes off that carbon fiber print sticker...
LOL yeah hats the one. It wasnt for sale.
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