Printed DNA 40 Bottom Feeder Mod
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You mean 'Check Atomizer', right?
You don't need to replace the vented screw at this time,
With the atomizer on, take the cap off the mod, and use a ohm/volt meter with the meter pins on the vented screw (+) and the 510 base(-)
Set the meter to resistance checking, at the 2K level.
The meter should read the atty resistance (+/- your meters base reading), if it doesn't, you have a connectivity problem to the atty, the pin is not making contact to the atty 510 pin
If you get the correct atty resistance, move the meter pins on the connector leads you soldered the 510 wires to.
If you don't get the correct resistance, you have a soldering problem.
If you get the correct resistance, the problem resides lower then the top cap
Remove the bottom internal from the shell.
Connect the top cap to the bottom internal.
Place the meter pins on the connector leads you soldered the board Out and Ground to
If you don't get the correct resistance, you either have a top/bottom connector issue, or the wires are not soldered to the right connector leads
Post results, and we'll take it from there
thanks for the detailed step-by-step. I have very little experience with using this volt meter so that should help a ton. everything you've mentioned makes perfect sense so that shouldn't be a big deal
just wanted to warn you that this is a cheap volt meter from harbor freight. I can't imagine the resistance reading will be very accurate, but I guess I'm looking more for a consistent or semi-consistent reading when checking the resistance of the atty with these steps
Set the meter to 2K Resistance level testing, touch the leads together, the reading is your base, subtract the base from your atty reading and that's the true resistance, but any reading validates connectivity
that's kind of what I had to go with last night as the reading never really "settle". almost like I had to take an average lol
For the test, use a known kanthol wired atty, reading should be solid or your not getting a solid connect with the meter leads
I had the same problem with cheap harbor freight meters.
If you take some fine sand paper to the probes, and sand the surface layer off them they will work much better. You will need to sand corrosion off them every couple months as it builds back up.
Their meters are crap. You can usually get them to work more consistently and reliably by sanding the surface layer off the probes though.
Once I sanded them lightly the resistance finally stopped jumping around and I was able to take accurate readings.
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Testing the atomizer alone at 2000 I get 004. Screwed onto the 510 I get the same thing on the vented screw and the threads or negative lug. Testing the 2 vertical connections of the black connector I get the same thing. Testing the out and ground at the backside of the board I also get the same reading
doesnt show one
again, this is a stupid cheap volt meter (red one from harbor freight)
again, this is a stupid cheap volt meter (red one from harbor freight)
There's no decimal because you are using the 2000 setting on resistance, if you want the decimal in the correct place you have to use the 200 setting not the 2000
Again, 200 is the correct setting.
Again, 200 is the correct setting.
Anyways, with the internals out of the shell, put the cap on and hit the power button, what happens
it neither a decimal, underscore, anything really
i could post a pic if you like but im not sure what that would accomplish. i have devices that can test resistance to 2 decimal places if that's important
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