The higher numbered settings, like 2000/20K/200K/2000K, are for measuring much larger resistances.
The 200 setting is the correct one on most meters.
The 200 setting is the correct one on most meters.
Printed DNA 40 Bottom Feeder Mod
- Thread starter gdeal
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Doesn't matter, put the top cap on the internal bottom out of the shell, put a battery in and press the fire button, what happens?
Another words, you're showing connectivity to the connectors, so let's see if it works without being in the shell
with the battery in, it powers up the device and says check atomizer
it shows 4.2 with the volt meter on the 200 setting
i haven't had it in the shell since it's been giving me problems. i just have the internals, and then the top cap
4.2 ohms? Doesn't make sense, are you using a kanthol wired atty you know works?
Also, what reading are you getting on the meter when just touching the two leads together?
yup. theres 2 tanks and about 6 drippers. all kanthal. not a fan of the nickel builds
So, if you're getting 4.2 with just the leads touching, my advice to you is get a new meter or fix yours (maybe a new battery?) cause touching the two leads together should be as close to 0 as possible with the meter, and when testing the atty, the atty resistance should show as 4.2 plus the atty resistance, so it looks like your meter isn't working
yea, it's not a good meter that's for sure
i'm probably just looking to RMA the board and this point and crossing my fingers
i'm probably just looking to RMA the board and this point and crossing my fingers
To be honest, the board doesn't seem to be the problem, the build does
Definitely possible but it was firing at one point. The 4 wires seem to be connected fine. I really don't have any other explanation or anything else I can think to try.
If the board was bad, it prolly wouldn't turn on, and you don't even haver the tools to help you determine the issue, how can you RMA a board you don't even know is bad?
If you buy a board, it's expected you have the tools to build it with,
Just sayin
If you buy a board, it's expected you have the tools to build it with,
Just sayin
Do this test for me. No battery, you are just going to use the top portion of the mod
Screw a rebuildable atomizer onto the device and take the top cap off the atomizer. It doesn't matter if it has a coil installed or not.
Set your multimeter to the resistance(ohm symbol) setting of 200
Touch one probe to the positive post inside your atomizer. At the same time touch the other probe to the positive screw(the portion that the juice bottle screws onto)
Do you get a reading on your multimeter?
Edit
Disregard post.
Last edited:
I desoldered the board. Everything appears ok except this cap that says r002 looks a little discolored
I got a polished v4.2 large screen complete set in today. Parts are smooth and powder free, but there way a very slight visible ridge. It's so slight that if I didn't know to look for it I wouldn't have noticed it, so overall I'm happy with my print.
Five minutes with some fine sand paper and the ridge is gone. Couple of clear coats tomorrow and I should have this thing up and running tomorrow.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wanted to mention, when I got mine in I didn't see a ridge. Then I dyed it and the ridge line was visible with the dye. It's not terrible to look at, but I couldn't see it until it was dyed; just so you guys know.
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