Printed DNA 40 Bottom Feeder Mod

[tiburonfirst]

update

As we get closer to the actual event, we're seeing that 24 hours may be an optimistic, if not unreasonable guestimate. Better plan on 48 hours. The database import alone is going to take around 12 hours (if nothing goes wrong with it).

We'll be making an announcement when we have a better idea with links to keep tabs on the progress.

so y'all don't go crazy when ecf disappears!

 

[Rossum]

so y'all don't go crazy when ecf disappears!

No worries, I still have some 36mg WTA base I can use.

 

[tiburonfirst]

just ordered mine but at 24mg

 

[Rossum]

If you just ordered it, how do you expect to have it before the software transition?

 

[Alexander Mundy]

I hope they have backups of the backups. Had a bad experience one time with company software transition. It ended up in never never land and the expensive online backup service files were corrupted. Paranoid Boy Scout here makes local backups as a precaution though, so all was well. Except for the pore person at customer service for the backup service that might have learned some new words.

 

[Vince159]

Ans since others are posting pics of semi-completed GDNA's...

Still painting the main body. Me thinks it needs 2 or 3 (or 7) more coats of paint.

Looks Great! I like the green and gold.

 

[Vince159]

just ordered mine but at 24mg

where y'all gettin the wta?
I haven't tried it yet, so I'd like to get the good stuff.

 

[autobiogphnation]

I am in heaven right now with the chalice III and some hiss tank

 

[Doffy]

going to take a fair few coats i think. using humbrol metallic enamel

 

[foolswithsometools]

These boxes look straight up amazing, and for $30 of hardware, a DNA40 chip, and a plastic print, its an awesome deal too.
That being said, is there an SX350j version (60watt+temp control) coming up anytime soon? It seems like its a straightforward enough chip to swap out for the GDNA with spacing, but if youre 3D printing out a mod this nice anyways it would be good to have the "new" options available
The sx350j chip seems to be doing pretty well with those who have it, and with the DNA40 seeming to have more and more issues with users every week, it seems like itd be worth designing a SX350j version of this awesome box

 

[BobC]

oh, had to order externals to get that



well, maybe I'll get a brush and brush the glue on

I just use a toothpick, you really don't need much CA

 

[Tbev]

That looks great!

 

[moresalt]

Has anybody broken one of those brass inserts when spreading them a bit? Or am I the first one to do that? Opps, it just slipped. I built 3 V3.1 and this is my second V4.2 and it was the last insert that needed to be widdened. Oh, well McMasters here I come.

 

[Vince159]

Has anybody broken one of those brass inserts when spreading them a bit? Or am I the first one to do that? Opps, it just slipped. I built 3 V3.1 and this is my second V4.2 and it was the last insert that needed to be widdened. Oh, well McMasters here I come.

I bet you could do a little better with livewire, on shipping atleast.

 

[BobC]

Just finished this one. Its a version 4.0. Clear glossy cerakote over black. The rings, button and base plate are Nickel finished Stainless Steel. The V4 Internals are just so much easier to work with than the 3.1.

Is that just Cerakote clear coat on Sculpteo polished black?

 

[BobC]

Really looks great with the clear Cerakote & nickel ring and button

 

[Aal_]

No no no no no no someone else is supposed to take the credit so I have something about which to complain.

Pastrami makes you think outside the box ... so does katsiki ... get ready

 

[Doffy]

it lives

still need to hook up the 510

and my soldering didn't quite leave room for the new holder bar, so may dremel a notch off the top cap bar. but not today. it powers up for now

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

Nice doffy! Hopefully mine powers up once I get time to put her all together. I have most joints soldered. But some broke loose..

Here's a question y'all. If I have a wire that broke loose off the board, how can I safely remove the old solder without ruining my board? I tried just soldering the wire where the old one was but the old solder wouldn't stick.. and I got some lead free tinning compound. Its meant to help solder stick, and it does the exact opposite. Flux won't stick to it at all! I think I have a junk solder iron. Its old, likes 70s old. I have a new one with wattage control coming in a day or two from ups!

-Mark

 

[mackman]

This works very well for me and easy too:Aven 17542 Desoldering Wick, 2.5mm Width, 5' Length: Solder Wick: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific