Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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ThreeDJ16

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yeh i have the acetone from the hardware store and tried thinning the nail polish, but i still was not happy with the results, butButBUT the good news is, i did go to hobbylobby today and picked up some testors paints.

Acetone is a great quick drying solvent. I use it for cleaning and paint removal, but don't use it for thinning if you want things to dry slower. Use mineral spirits to thin you testors paint. Also not all colors need thinning hence the trial and error part. Also why every other mod doesn't get it's picture taken, but instead an acetone shower. LoL i can say for sure that brown needs thinning and all the metallic variations i have tried. Green, blue, orange, white, yellow and some other base colors do not unless you just want faint color. Half the fun is mixing and experimenting. Anyone who finds that tedious might not enjoy this style painting.

Or you can just buy marble paints at 5x the costs. No fun in that....Lol.
 
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junquedujour

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Acetone is a great quick drying solvent. I use it for cleaning and paint removal, but don't use it for thinning if you want things to dry slower. Use mineral spirits to thin you testors paint. Also not all colors need thinning hence the trial and error part. Also why every other mod doesn't get it's picture taken, but instead an acetone shower. LoL i can say for sure that brown needs thinning and all the metallic variations i have tried. Green, blue, orange, white, yellow and some other base colors do not unless you just want faint color. Half the fun is mixing and experimenting. Anyone who finds that tedious might not enjoy this style painting.

Or you can just buy marble paints at 5x the costs. No fun in that....Lol.

good points. i looked at the marble paints a couple weeks ago - but that was as far as i went.

are you using the krylon matte finish for the inside and then packing the center of the shell with something to protect it during the dip? or is the inside of the case also getting coated with the enamels?
 

ValHeli

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Sorry about that Junque, I didn't specify that I use paint thinner for thinning enamel paints and not acetone. I haven't tried testors, but I've read that it's thicker than humbrol paints. I suggest putting a couple of drops on water and if it doesn't spread, or just globs and sink, then go ahead and thin it out with paint thinner. In my experience, I add about 25% thinner to paint volume. A properly thinned oil enamel spreads out nice and even on top of plain tap water ( 70 - 80 F ) no borax needed.
 

junquedujour

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Sorry about that Junque, I didn't specify that I use paint thinner for thinning enamel paints and not acetone. I haven't tried testors, but I've read that it's thicker than humbrol paints. I suggest putting a couple of drops on water and if it doesn't spread, or just globs and sink, then go ahead and thin it out with paint thinner. In my experience, I add about 25% thinner to paint volume. A properly thinned oil enamel spreads out nice and even on top of plain tap water ( 70 - 80 F ) no borax needed.

hey there ValHeli! thanks for jumping in here and thanks for the info. i've been copy/pasting all the advice/suggestions that you guys have been providing regarding the swirl painting to a text file. i will probably give it a spin with the testors this weekend. i kinda liked how my guinea pig plastic bottles turned out, but then i guess i got too picky/critical/.... when dipping the Peko case. :-[

btw, the testing/trial runs on plastic bottles was a GREAT suggestion ValHeli and was actually kinda fun. i will be doing that with the testors also.
 

ThreeDJ16

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good points. i looked at the marble paints a couple weeks ago - but that was as far as i went.

are you using the krylon matte finish for the inside and then packing the center of the shell with something to protect it during the dip? or is the inside of the case also getting coated with the enamels?

I have used the super glue and acetone method to seal the last three mods. Worked great but i still put a dark primer coat over before the swirling.

Play dough is what i use fill the mod
 

junquedujour

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I have used the super glue and acetone method to seal the last three mods. Worked great but i still put a dark primer coat over before the swirling.

Play dough is what i use fill the mod

that is brilliant! i was trying to think of something that would fill that void and prevent saturating the inside. sheeez. how simple of a fix. thanks again!
 

phibbus

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Sorry not following up. isn't acetone bad for your mod? or was it bad for acrylic maybe?

I believe someone (Mike Petro, maybe) posted a spec sheet from Shapeways a while back on the DNA mod thread stating that acetone was fine for the plastic but that alcohol was a no-no. I believe the sheet gave a graded scale of harmful effect of various solvents. I'll try to find it.

EDIT: It was Mike's post. It wasn't specifically a Shapeways product sheet, though, but a more general chemical compatibility sheet for nylon. Here,s the post...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ted-dna30-bottom-feeder-107.html#post14160611
 
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Aal_

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I believe someone (Mike Petro, maybe) posted a spec sheet from Shapeways a while back on the DNA mod thread stating that acetone was fine for the plastic but that alcohol was a no-no. I believe the sheet gave a graded scale of harmful effect of various solvents. I'll try to find it.

EDIT: It was Mike's post. It wasn't specifically a Shapeways product sheet, though, but a more general chemical compatibility sheet for nylon. Here,s the post...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ted-dna30-bottom-feeder-107.html#post14160611

Thanks. But why use acetone in the first place? does it just clean or seal? I didnt get why drunk went superglue and acetone and not superglue alone.
 

Lillie Bennett

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Thanks. But why use acetone in the first place? does it just clean or seal? I didnt get why drunk went superglue and acetone and not superglue alone.
My 2 is since the sg will dry almost instantly the acetone will thin to allow the sg to distribute, then the acetone evaporates off leaving the thinned sg as a sealer.
 

ThreeDJ16

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My 2 is since the sg will dry almost instantly the acetone will thin to allow the sg to distribute, then the acetone evaporates off leaving the thinned sg as a sealer.

Yup. I actually have messed with just superglue and it is very inconsistent trying to coat. Add the acetone then it is quick and easy plus a good surface for the paint to bond with. Also the best stuff I have found for stripping a crappy paint job fast too (opps, I mean just acetone).
 
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ThreeDJ16

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that is brilliant! i was trying to think of something that would fill that void and prevent saturating the inside. sheeez. how simple of a fix. thanks again!

I forgot to add this one bit that will save you a ton of trouble getting the freakn play dough back out. I put one layer of poly on before I mess with anything as the paint is easy to peal off with the play dough (after the thinned testors paint has dried thoroughly). Then I pull out all the play dough I can by hand, the rest gets washed out with warm water and agitated with a course artist brush. That will get every little bit out. Let it dry again and then put the second (and third if desired) coat of poly. I have tried the spray clear enamel and the spray poly, I will be sticking with brushed poly. Definitely no more spray clear enamel for me. Don't know if it is the testors paint not playing well with the clear enamal or what, but I have two or three mods with the stuff on it chip like crazy. I know others love the stuff and have no probs, just my bum luck I guess as it was easy to use.

Someone request a pic of the play dough method? Not really sure how to show that in a pic, but here is the only one I can remember with the play dough still in place. No poly on there yet either. More than welcome to click on the pic and follow back to photobucket, might be another one somewhere in my dna30 library.



Jeez, seeing this pic this morning makes me really, really want to get those mech parts in...like now!!!
 
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junquedujour

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I forgot to add this one bit that will save you a ton of trouble getting the freakn play dough back out. I put one layer of poly on before I mess with anything as the paint is easy to peal off with the play dough (after the thinned testors paint has dried thoroughly). Then I pull out all the play dough I can by hand, the rest gets washed out with warm water and agitated with a course artist brush. That will get every little bit out. Let it dry again and then put the second (and third if desired) coat of poly. I have tried the spray clear enamel and the spray poly, I will be sticking with brushed poly. Definitely no more spray clear enamel for me. Don't know if it is the testors paint not playing well with the clear enamal or what, but I have two or three mods with the stuff on it chip like crazy. I know others love the stuff and have no probs, just my bum luck I guess as it was easy to use.

Someone request a pic of the play dough method? Not really sure how to show that in a pic, but here is the only one I can remember with the play dough still in place. No poly on there yet either. More than welcome to click on the pic and follow back to photobucket, might be another one somewhere in my dna30 library.



Jeez, seeing this pic this morning makes me really, really want to get those mech parts in...like now!!!

i enclosed the play-doh in a little piece plastic wrap before stuffing it in there. it worked okay.
 

junquedujour

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y'know, sponge painting results in some pretty nice effects, too.

(a random pic off google)

010.JPG
 
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