Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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Alexander Mundy

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Use a metal button and ring?

au23kXN.jpg


I just finished that one. I believe the ring and button are Shapeways' nickel steel. It was a pain. The ring was under-sized and required quite a bit of "fitting" using a Dremel on the inside surfaces of the ring. The socket where the hex spacer goes in the button was also a somewhat under-sized, so the spacer had to be sanded to fit. FWIW, the textures look more subdued in person than in that pic.

Rossum's right, lots of "fitting" <= read PITA

But with lots of dremel work and sanding the result is nice

20140926_201511_zpskhbeknrt.jpg


That was called "Stainless", although it was ferrous. Really rough when I received them.
 

HappiVappi

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Hello my BF feeding friends... Just purchased this, not sure if anyone has had a chance to use it but for $14 shipped I will take a chance on this bottom feed atty

Zenith V2.5 Double Cross Rebuildable Dropping Atomizer 1:1

I ordered two of those and got them last week. One runs as a top feeder and the other is currently on my LP REO in single coil mode 0.9 Ohm with RxW wick. While the feed/drain hole in the center post is a bit high for my liking, it works actually quite good. I don't have an authentic, so I cannot say anything about quality differences, but machining quality is quite good and this thing vapes pretty nicely.

Cheers.
 

gdeal

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Merlin21

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Nice find Merlin. Not too many ready make squonking atties out there. None for $14!

Happi, how far off the deck is the feed/drain hole. And is it at, above or below the airflow opening? What is the bottom feed pin made of/plated with?

I was surprised myself. I was just looking for a cheap atty to modify and came across it.

While this is an original, I assume the clone will have the same height. While the lip around the deck is high, I can not see all the juice draining out of it. Just like Happi pointed out.

Have you noticed any leaking Happi while squonking?

KD.jpg
 

tiburonfirst

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Use a metal button and ring?



I just finished that one. I believe the ring and button are Shapeways' nickel steel. It was a pain. The ring was under-sized and required quite a bit of "fitting" using a Dremel on the inside surfaces of the ring. The socket where the hex spacer goes in the button was also a somewhat under-sized, so the spacer had to be sanded to fit. FWIW, the textures look more subdued in person than in that pic.

looka here ;) have you seen this, gdeal?

Brass Material
 
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HappiVappi

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Nice find Merlin. Not too many ready make squonking atties out there. None for $14!

Happi, how far off the deck is the feed/drain hole. And is it at, above or below the airflow opening? What is the bottom feed pin made of/plated with?

I was surprised myself. I was just looking for a cheap atty to modify and came across it.

While this is an original, I assume the clone will have the same height. While the lip around the deck is high, I can not see all the juice draining out of it. Just like Happi pointed out.

Have you noticed any leaking Happi while squonking?

View attachment 394820

I would have to take one of them apart to measure the distance of the drain hole to the deck. 2-3 mm if my memory does not play tricks on me.
The center pin is stainless steel. The sealed bottom screw looks like silver plated and the vented is stainless steel.

So far I had no leaking issues, but it is by far not as leaking proof as the Veritas. I just wished it were 18mm.

BTW, I also ordered a Mephisto and a Venturi from them just to fool around. So far the Mephisto is not up my alley, but that Venturi is quite a surprise....

Cheers.
 

gdeal

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drmarble

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You can get the zenith 2.5 bottom feeder for under $10 here: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1901902
fasttech's shipping is slow (2 weeks from China) but it should get to you faster than your shapeways/sculpteo parts. I figured I could just drill another hole at the base to avoid leaking if it turns out to be a problem. Easy to do on a cheap clone. Much harder on an original.
 

HappiVappi

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You can get the zenith 2.5 bottom feeder for under $10 here: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1901902
Fasttech's shipping is slow (2 weeks from China) but it should get to you faster than your shapeways/sculpteo parts. I figured I could just drill another hole at the base to avoid leaking if it turns out to be a problem. Easy to do on a cheap clone. Much harder on an original.

AVOID any yaddi-yadda "STYLED" from Fasttech. What they call "STYLED" is downright rubbish....

Cheers.
 

Merlin21

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AVOID any yaddi-yadda "STYLED" from Fasttech. What they call "STYLED" is downright rubbish....

Cheers.

^^ ^^ This, if it doesn't say 1:1 I tend to avoid it... Not saying it won't work, just it was sourced to the lowest bidder...... Also if it says ships in XX days, a no go for me
 

gdeal

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drmarble

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I think the fasttech one is the same. The photographer just put the vented screw into the center post. The center post does have drain holes like the original, they are just facing the negative poles. I found this out from reading the comments and reviews. I was only suggesting drilling if the center post drain holes were too high. The feed/drain holes appear to be about 1 to 2 mm up; you can just see them in the first two pictures. Still, not a much better deal than AngelCigs. You get free shipping but it is from China so it takes a long time.
 

phibbus

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A couple questions/observations about the positive contact and button assembly:

On the two pictures from page 6 of the build doc, it appears that the small solder lug connecting to the button screw should be placed above the large one connecting to the 510 with the nut on screw joining them together on the top side...

PekoV1_pg6a.jpgPekoV1_pg6b.jpg

In the first photo, the end of the screw joining the two appears to be flush with the surface of the nut (unless that is the hex head of the screw and there is a circular indentation in it?) In the second photo,though, the screw is protruding beyond the nut. My screw was protruding as in the latter photo, and when assembled as shown, it also extended beyond the top of the recess housing it in the internal frame and prevented the top cap from sitting flush. Once I had tightened the joint, I filed the screw end down flush with the nut to prevent that from happening. Turning the screw around so that the head faces up would also have done the trick, but it would have made it all but impossible to tighten that nut, if needed, without unscrewing everything to remove the lugs.

Also, can the smaller lug be placed below the larger one? I was liking the throw of the button slightly better when I tried it that way, but I haven't fully assembled, yet, and I didn't check carefully to see if there might be adverse mechanical consequences.

Finally, those lugs, once held flush to the top of the internal by the 510 nut, make for a stiffer leaf than I was anticipating. I'm not sure that even the heavy button spring is actually contributing any resistance/return to the button throw beyond what the lugs themselves already do. As I said in a previous post, I really liked the subtle, loose feel of the button when I first tried the opposing magnets, before the lugs were in place. I'm thinking I might try replacing the small lug with a piece of 18ga stranded wire in order to retain that feel. It would also allow the button to travel more-or-less straight down rather than at the angled arc prescribed by the attachment to the lugs. Of course, it would also make the mod no longer purely mechanical, but I'm wondering if anyone can see any other obvious adverse effects?
 

gdeal

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junquedujour

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could it be that i have my nut on top and followed the instructions as per the pdf be the reason mine does not have a shut off point when turning the button? or is that caused by something else? my friend says she can twist her button and it will make it so it won't fire; making it safe to drop in a purse/pocket. mine never has a *no-fire* state.
 

gdeal

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gdeal

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gdeal

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Roscoe01

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oh well. thanks for taking a looksee gdeal. maybe i will figure it out on my next one. ;)
loveLoveLOVE this li'l gdeal mech!!!
Maybe the short button could cause not having enough height to retract the firing pin far enough to lock the button?
Or maybe glue got in nut when installing In button. My 2c
 
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