No, I use the lug between the screw and the threaded brass rod (as designed). The nut is tight against the lug, which is tight against the delrin insulator. If I want to adjust the screw in the threaded delrin, I loosen the nut first, adjust the screw, then re-tighten the nut. I always keep the delrin insulator tight against the body of the 510.
How to tame the cyclone afc:
0.6 ohm 28 gauge dual coils around 1/16th
The divo has a challenger. And nuppin is still in the bag
Thank you gdeal. I have been holding off on ordering my next ones in hopes that you would make it roscoe proof[emoji106]Version 2.1
I just received the latest prototype for the new version of Peko. After V1.1, I started making some changes and finally had some time to fully complete a releasable version. So whats changed?
I increased thicknesses to certain areas in the internal part for additional strength (It should now be Roscoe proof). I added some minor offsets to surfaces of parts that oppose each other so that nothing is tight straight out of the box. The ring also has an offset so it wont be tight if painted. The big change is that I reconfigured the way the internal assembles into the top cap. The new tab feature locks down the top cap. When the 510 is secured, there is no movement...no flex..none...nada. I dry fitted all the parts and it seems to have worked out pretty well.The body slides in and out easily on the first try and I was able to hand thread the 510 connector into the top cap. No changes to the hardware, this is all cosmetic and structural.
I would think brittle would be a bad thing for drops and such. maybe I will splurge on hydrographics or cerakote instead.
Brilliant solution. Much more elegant than my redneck mind could devise[emoji16]By the way, I gotta give credit where credit is due. During the beta test Alexander Mundy suggested to put that tab under top cap. It just took me four months to catch up to his brilliant idea.
So Sir...Thank you!
