Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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gdeal

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gdeal

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Aal_

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We will need to wait for you to pressure test durability in adverse environmental and handling conditions for that title to be attained. ;)
Hey George if you're working on a new gdna I hope it supports the small screen as well.

As for prices since I pay in euros I should not be affected I guess. I have no way to check it though.
 

TyCreek

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i finally found the picture i was looking for ;) the difference in print quality struck me then and with sw getting even worse i think it's worth posting here. i know gdeal is not impressed with imat but maybe they could be pushed?
if not sculpteo is the only option unless there's another 3d printing company we haven't found yet

15576195933_ef83216581_b.jpg


lines on the right of me! :lol:

I'd know that LiPo Tibs anywhere! LoL ... so honored ;) But to be fair that tibs is/was a black shell with so many coats of paint and dye sanded off and put back on, it's not a good representation of print quality. For sure... the iMat prints were very very nice though and zero complaints from me!
Here's some pictures of that and other shells without sanding.
 

gdeal

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Kentastic

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Work in progress. I ordered a full PeKo made out of black detail from Shapeways back during their Black Friday/ Cyber Monday sale (made it about the same price as White, Strong, & Flexible). I've spent quite a bit of time sanding it and smoothing it, but it's finally starting to look good. I just need to get the last of the print lines off of it and buff it out to shine like a freshly waxed new car. I'm finally starting to see how it's going to look like when finished. I think it's going to look really good.

16118370257_2ff76a419b_b.jpg
 

Moxienator

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Work in progress. I ordered a full PeKo made out of black detail from Shapeways back during their Black Friday/ Cyber Monday sale (made it about the same price as White, Strong, & Flexible). I've spent quite a bit of time sanding it and smoothing it, but it's finally starting to look good. I just need to get the last of the print lines off of it and buff it out to shine like a freshly waxed new car. I'm finally starting to see how it's going to look like when finished. I think it's going to look really good.

16118370257_2ff76a419b_b.jpg
That's awesome!!! Its not white underneath?

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ThreeDJ16

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Kentastic

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If I am not mistaken, black detail is made from black printing material so it is solid.

BTW Ken, freak sweet. Smooth as glass.

Yeah Drunk_J is correct. It's a different material than the white and color dyed shells. It comes to you a lot rougher than a nice polished white shells, but since it's solid black material you can sand it down and shine it up. Which is what I'm attempting to do. I'll tell you the smoother it gets the harder it is to get rid of the last of the print marks, but I'm pretty close. It feels kinda like an hard rubber rather than plastic. Very different than the regular white material. Very comfortable to hold. I probably will not be getting another one though. Between being much more expensive (when not on sale) and the amount of work it takes to get it to look how it does at this point, makes it a tough sell.
 

gdeal

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Aal_

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Depends on how you like to set your throw. The low button is going to give you about 1.2mm of throw max before the top of the rounded button top is flush with the raised lip. If you are a button masher go for the high button. Low is for sleek, sexy and a light touch.....either with magnets or bareback.
I'm working with 2 pekos one with high and one with low. And I like a medium throw. I was just worried the low button would get inside the opening before it hits the battery. I liked the low button more. I wouldn't mind shortening the the throw if that is necessary.
 

Kentastic

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Once it's all installed, you can turn the button itself to adjust the throw. You should be able to adjust it so you barely have to touch the button for it to fire. The only danger with adjusting it that close is that because the mod is plastic there is a little bit of flex. I haven't used the v2.1 yet with it's top cap locking slot, but with the v1.1 there was enough flex that with the button adjusted to a really short short throw, there would be times when I picked it up and it started firing. I ended up having to back off the throw a little just to keep it from auto-fiiring. Still shouldn't be a problem, as you only have to back it off like 1/2 a turn, it should still give you a short enough throw that the button is not going to sink down below the raised top cap section.
 

gdeal

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Kentastic

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Hah, would be wonderful if it also stopped firing when I put it down.... :D

When I built my first PeKO, I tried using the magnets because I loved magnets back when I used tube mods, but because it was so difficult to get them to stay in place while I was putting the rest of the top together to hold them in, I ended up having a hell of a time and didn't even realize you could adjust the throw with the button. Wasn't until I just started using the soft spring (easiest to work with and my recommendation) that I figured out that hey... if you turn the button one way it lower the battery contact down, and if you turn it the other way it raises it for a longer throw. Genius design Gdeal.

Anyways, I have one PeKo (ironically my yellow PeKochu) that for some reason just went together perfectly. Everything fit exactly as it was designed to and is solid as a rock. No flex what so ever. On it I have my firing button adjusted down so I barely have to touch it for the mod to fire. There has got to only be 1 mm between the bottom of the button and the top of the battery. On the others I have to keep it adjusted out further to so I won't get any unintentional firing when sliding the top and bottom together, or when gripping the mod too tightly while picking it up, but with my PeKochu it is not a problem.
 

ThreeDJ16

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gdeal

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gdeal

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