Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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BobC

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Hell yes! Make sure those batteries are pointed down, the additional head pressure makes the electrons flow stronger....trust me it works! Send me a $1 and I will mail the instructions!! LoL


BTW, pretty funny, but the spring actually worked out well. Even funnier was I was sitting here trying to squeeze the spring a little tighter and my wife was like why don't you use a pen spring. Nah, that won't be strong enough...lol. Check out the pen spring in the pic. I really didn't need it, I don't adjust that much, but just wanted to try it. FYI, I didn't use a lock nut or set up the position, was just testing the spring. Really you could almost just set the brass rod side and use the spring tension of the terminal lug to do the same thing. I was just curious if it could hold tension to get a good vape and I tried it at various positions. You would need a lock nut for it to stay in position while you turned the screw from the outside. I was board...lol.

Now what did work well and did create a noticeable difference in my vape. When I installed the Peko parts, I was in a hurry to have a working Peko and meant to go back and clean those grimy brass rods I received. Like most things now days, I forgot. So was taking it apart tonight to play with the spring and use my DeOxIt on the brass rod and nuts. Bright and shiny compared to what they looked like and it is a much stronger vape. So before replacing stuff, give a try cleaning it instead!




Damn, I really need these instructions, do you take Green Stamps?
 

ThreeDJ16

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Aal_

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I am pretty sure folks know that was a joke? Just poking at Aal_ a bit since he targeted me so much on my coop....hahaha.

As junquedujour put it, there can be a difference for the button. I use flat tops so I don't see any difference. edit, ok, maybe because of the larger contact area....I can go with that. And the fact G designed it that way...lol.

Now the gravity feed for the electrons, that makes the biggest difference. LOL
Meh, I am confused now which means you succeeded at picking one me :D. I assumed it is positive end down just because it goes to the center pin of the atty. Again IS THAT CORRECT? :blink:
 

ThreeDJ16

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BobC

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Meh, I am confused now which means you succeeded at picking one me :D. I assumed it is positive end down just because it goes to the center pin of the atty. Again IS THAT CORRECT? :blink:

Sorry for confusing the issue....I was just picking on the whole battery direction on a mech making a difference electrically speaking...it doesn't. But it was designed pos pin down and I can see the neg being a larger contact surface....so go with that....and don't worry over it. I will stop making fun of the situation since it is confusing to folks and we don't need that....my bad.

It's a Mech, doesn't matter which end is up, unless you're using a 510 attachable meter of some sort, then battery + must be down
 

ThreeDJ16

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Aal_

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Sorry for confusing the issue....I was just picking on the whole battery direction on a mech making a difference electrically speaking...it doesn't. But it was designed pos pin down and I can see the neg being a larger contact surface....so go with that....and don't worry over it. I will stop making fun of the situation since it is confusing to folks and we don't need that....my bad.
Lol I know buddy it doesn't matter, I think I got used to mech mods with metal tubes. Now with those I always checked what would happen if the wrapper gets torn. I always prefer that this kind of short has a load meaning it will cause continuous firing and not a hard short on the mod. That said, although the coil might catch fire, there is at least the possibility that it will break and cut the current flow.

Now with plastic that doesn't matter.
 

ThreeDJ16

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inswva

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Peko stopped firing this morning. Upon a close inspection, I discovered the screw and nut which connect the two solder lugs was gone. Like... gone, gone... not rattling around in the mod, just gone. Not quite sure how they escaped. Guess I need to dig into my second parts kit and then replenish those hardware items.
 

Aal_

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Mainly just trying to come up with some reason why everyone was saying battery down and that it works better.....lol. Maybe when using the classic FD510 center screw as a pin since it is big? Battery being off center? Hell, I don't know...haha. Works either freakn way fine for me.



We should own a freakn own a glue factory as beating a dead horse has become a usual event now.
You haven't answered my question. But i do agree about the horse :D.
 

ThreeDJ16

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RGLP4Lyfe

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Peko stopped firing this morning. Upon a close inspection, I discovered the screw and nut which connect the two solder lugs was gone. Like... gone, gone... not rattling around in the mod, just gone. Not quite sure how they escaped. Guess I need to dig into my second parts kit and then replenish those hardware items.
Yeah, screw that bolt/ nut combo cut down those solder lugs and solder 16 or 18g wire to it. I used 16g.. or directly solder to the bolts/ 510 nut. Your choice. That way your mod will never let you down. Mine hasnt!

-Mark
 

RGLP4Lyfe

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If I ever did a graffiti Peko, I'd use "This Machine Kills Cancer".
Funny you say that. Did you see my graffiti peko? It's quite dirty now cause its my all day work mod.. and I work in a warehouse.

..I wish I would of thought of your quote. Maybe I'll write on it "Cancer Killer"



-Mark
 

Roscoe01

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Yeah, screw that bolt/ nut combo cut down those solder lugs and solder 16 or 18g wire to it. I used 16g.. or directly solder to the bolts/ 510 nut. Your choice. That way your mod will never let you down. Mine hasnt!

-Mark
I actually soldered my bolt and nut to the lugs cause I got tired of them coming loose. With that said next go around I will either use wire or make a solid single piece out of some BeCu. My 2c.
 
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