Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

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Monotremata

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This is what I use.. Its a jewelers sized "hand drill" I got when I worked at Harbor Freight back in like 1998. I literally shoved a 1/16" and 5/64" (thats whats on it now for the KFL) bits in it and clamped the chuck down. I moved the pocket clip down and thanks to the texture on the chuck I put one leg under the clip and it anchors perfectly. Just hold my spool tight in my left hand, tension and wrap with the right.. Thanks to everyone's knowledge in this thread I haven't made a single bunk coil yet! I don't know if they still sell em but I remember them being cheap as hell back then..
8502986f6e08a56f487363b3efd1a4b2.jpg
 

MacTechVpr

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This is what I use.. Its a jewelers sized "hand drill" I got when I worked at Harbor Freight back in like 1998. I literally shoved a 1/16" and 5/64" (thats whats on it now for the KFL) bits in it and clamped the chuck down. I moved the pocket clip down and thanks to the texture on the chuck I put one leg under the clip and it anchors perfectly. Just hold my spool tight in my left hand, tension and wrap with the right.. Thanks to everyone's knowledge in this thread I haven't made a single bunk coil yet! I don't know if they still sell em but I remember them being cheap as hell back then..
8502986f6e08a56f487363b3efd1a4b2.jpg

That'll do ya for 1/16. But you need some more serious muscle to stretch 24 AWG. Some people resort to drills and I try to explain that the motor will definitely torque it around the bit for ya. Certainly! But that's forming and doesn't approach the energy needed to stretch the wire necessarily.

Good goin' mono, good luck.

:)
 

Monotremata

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Ok so, just got crazy and tried my first twisted 32ga build... Now how is it an 8/9 wrap single 32ga coil hits from 2.5-2.7 ohms, yet the same number using twisted wire came out to 1.4????? I'm baffled!! Have to finally kick up the watts a nudge since it takes a sec or two to heat up but its working nice!! Tried to take a pic but my stupid phone died after the first one haha. Hopefully it came out, I'll check when it charges hehe..
 

crg31953

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Ok so, just got crazy and tried my first twisted 32ga build... Now how is it an 8/9 wrap single 32ga coil hits from 2.5-2.7 ohms, yet the same number using twisted wire came out to 1.4????? I'm baffled!! Have to finally kick up the watts a nudge since it takes a sec or two to heat up but its working nice!! Tried to take a pic but my stupid phone died after the first one haha. Hopefully it came out, I'll check when it charges hehe..

I'm sure Mac will chime in here, but the way I see it...........twice the wire - half the resistance. It reacts the same as dual coils, 2x 2.0 ohm coils = 1.0 ohm resistance.
I hope this helps a little. :)

Vape On My Friends!
 

Monotremata

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Aaahh is that how duals work? I gotcha! I need to relate all this to guitar amps cause its all electrical voltage! Its like speaker cabs sorta.. One 16 ohm cab, you run your heads output at 16.. Two 16 ohm loads (I think its parallel?), set the amp for 8!!

I remember when I bought my old Marshall 4x12". The back plate had an 8 written in Sharpie, and I knew those cabs were originally 16 ohms from the factory. Opened it up and had to do a crash course in parallel/serial speaker wiring.. And of course now I can't remember how it was wired, but it was like each set of of 2 were wired in serial and then each pair goes parallel to the output jack (or vice versa). 4x8 ohm speakers end up coming out at 8 ohms..

Rambling aside, its working even better than a 'regular' micro! Mines not quite a real micro as I had to wind it by hand on my jig but pliers on one end helped.. Its slooow to heat up but I'm at 10w and now I can taste more flavor and less of the harsh 18mg nicotine I mentioned before.. I'm gonna get some 36ga and try one in the Protank if it doesn't melt the insulator from the heat haha!
 

cigatron

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Aaahh is that how duals work? I gotcha! I need to relate all this to guitar amps cause its all electrical voltage! Its like speaker cabs sorta.. One 16 ohm cab, you run your heads output at 16.. Two 16 ohm loads (I think its parallel?), set the amp for 8!!

I remember when I bought my old Marshall 4x12". The back plate had an 8 written in Sharpie, and I knew those cabs were originally 16 ohms from the factory. Opened it up and had to do a crash course in parallel/serial speaker wiring.. And of course now I can't remember how it was wired, but it was like each set of of 2 were wired in serial and then each pair goes parallel to the output jack (or vice versa). 4x8 ohm speakers end up coming out at 8 ohms..

Rambling aside, its working even better than a 'regular' micro! Mines not quite a real micro as I had to wind it by hand on my jig but pliers on one end helped.. Its slooow to heat up but I'm at 10w and now I can taste more flavor and less of the harsh 18mg nicotine I mentioned before.. I'm gonna get some 36ga and try one in the Protank if it doesn't melt the insulator from the heat haha!

Yes mono, most guitar amp output jacks are wired parallel. Plug in one 8 ohm speaker = 8ohm load. Plug in two 8ohm speakers = 4ohm load.

Ohms law for total parallel resistance equals 1/ (1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 etc). Just so happens that the total resistance for two resistors of equal value equals 1/2 of the resistance either R1 or R2.

The 36awg wire you mentioned will actually produce less power than the 32awg. Just say'n.

Twisted winds are parallel resistors. The wire becomes electrically isolated once the alumina forms. Same with parallel winds. Same with twisted center duals.

But the real question is why would you want more power in a kanger single wicked coil? A single wick in a kanger can only handle about 10watts reliably when chaining or taking long hits because of the limited juice flow at the wick/tank interface. You can't do anything about it really. You can wick lighter risking flooding or you can take shorter/less frequent hits allowing the wick to recharge between vapes. I don't enjoy either of those options sooooooo.

Dual coil. 10w per coil equals twice the vapor production as a single.

IMG_20141111_172342_899.jpg


Shown here is a modified kanger dual coil (conceiled wick) head into a crossed dual coil (exposed wick) head using the drill guide shown on the left. Takes about one minute to drill them out and to sand the chimney flange for easy removal/replacement. Rock'n these heads in my Aerotank Mini and Mega at 20watts with no issues at all on a panzer mech mod.

It's an advanced build for sure but it's what it takes for me.

:)cig
 
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MacTechVpr

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Aaahh is that how duals work? I gotcha! I need to relate all this to guitar amps cause its all electrical voltage! Its like speaker cabs sorta.. One 16 ohm cab, you run your heads output at 16.. Two 16 ohm loads (I think its parallel?), set the amp for 8!!

I remember when I bought my old Marshall 4x12". The back plate had an 8 written in Sharpie, and I knew those cabs were originally 16 ohms from the factory. Opened it up and had to do a crash course in parallel/serial speaker wiring.. And of course now I can't remember how it was wired, but it was like each set of of 2 were wired in serial and then each pair goes parallel to the output jack (or vice versa). 4x8 ohm speakers end up coming out at 8 ohms..

Rambling aside, its working even better than a 'regular' micro! Mines not quite a real micro as I had to wind it by hand on my jig but pliers on one end helped.. Its slooow to heat up but I'm at 10w and now I can taste more flavor and less of the harsh 18mg nicotine I mentioned before.. I'm gonna get some 36ga and try one in the Protank if it doesn't melt the insulator from the heat haha!

Mono my sincere suggestion…make yourself one authentic tensioned micro coil. Until then you're selling yourself short.

Pliers, forceps, needle nose…all will help add tension. But it won't get you uniform adhesion and so the potential for uniform oxidation isn't there. And that buddy is what if anything is gonna make that twisted smile.

I'm vapin' 15W routinely on XC-132 Nextel at .07" straight wire. Runnin' the monster at 17.5 comfortably now on the Mega (not chaining, maybe 2 or 3 successive hard pulls). But XC-132 goes out to 40W easily in multi-coil situations on other devices. At 60W it's splendid as XC-116.

The limitation I have found in the Protank is airflow, as with any device.

You will get better coverage area with say 32g twisted but in the absence of good air you'll just overheat. And it'll be a unsatisfactory vape. You can get lot's of wick into a PT but gasping for air your ability to apply power or wind for higher power will be limited. Do it and your vape will see a diminished response as power goes up. One way of gauging the efficacy of your build design. And if you pay attention you'll be able to see the zone you've actually built for (with a variable adjusting power).

Increases in tank temperature is the litmus test. You build a solid install that conforms to the tank design like 9/10 winds 29 on .07" and it will accommodate a wide variety of vaping styles. Build big like the PT monster and you'll max out the potential (with Nextel). At the end of the day you're forced to respect tank temperature. When you hit that barrier you must stop or vaping will stop.

Wouldn't it be wonderful if we could stick a finger in and count the electron collisions on the wire's surface and correlate that to temperature? See all the wonderful traffic jams. What wonderful maps we could make of a microcoil's surface. Of stuff like this one!

384643d1414382506-micro-coils-increase-vapor-flavor-th-img_1191a.jpg



We build for the device. A tensioned contact micro allows us to do it simply and elegantly. The esoteric builds are marvelous but my experience tells me it's the path of diminishing returns. Rewarding if you know exactly how to wind efficiently for say that deep rich flavor inside of good vapor production. This I did with the monster but it's a downhill slide in terms of time beyond 15W. Your hit interval decreases with every watt over. It's not a matter of wind type or even efficiency. It's a physical limitation. Once you feel that tank temperature start to climb set it down. Respect that reality and you can make a lot of winds work even inefficient ones.

In the case of twisted it pays off handsomely if you can build a tight symmetrical twist and optimize contact oxidation. Fun exercise though and I have done it many times. That is quite a lot of work though with small Ø wire. The payoff much more easily attained with a straight wire t.m.c with and say 28AWG.

Get that t.m.c. built! Then you'll more easily be able to see what works for you much more precisely to maximize vapor and flavor. You can't predict a vapor/flavor outcome if you can't duplicate the outcome of the wind. It's a stab in the dark. Sorta the same ain't the name of the game.

Good look Mono.

:)
 
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Monotremata

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Hey Mac/Cig/Crg/etc.. can you recommend how to do a real tensioned micro coil with the twisted wire??? What I did was cut like an 8" length off the spool and then did the whole 'fold it in half, twist one end, wrap with the jig etc' method so I had to pretty much anchor one end in my hand drill and then hold the other with pliers to wrap the coil itself tightly but it still fought the whole way.. I suppose I can try to spool out a length and do it on the spool but this ones still working good so I dont wanna tear down the KFL yet haha..
It was even 'spongier' than normal it seemed after I twisted it, it was pretty tough pulling it tight and keeping it that way but I was hesitant to torch it beforehand after everything Ive read here.. I just got paid so Im gonna go order some 29ga in a sec and put the 32 aside for my PT2's anyways but still looking for a nice 'easy' way to do the twisted too..
 

cigatron

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If airflow was the MOST limiting factor with kangers then it wouldn't be producing TWICE the vapor output with rebuilt duals vs. rebuilt singles in an Aerotank. And it DOES. And at 10watts per coil the juice flow keeps up with as many 6-8 second hits as you can throw at it.

True, you can vape single coils at 15 watts or more if you take short and less frequent hits but NO wick medium will deliver sustained long chaining hits past 10watts in a kanger from my observations. Not kgd, rayon, nextel or any of the other half dozen mediums I have tried. Hell, if I pre-wet kgd like a dripper I can slam it with 30watts for 2 or 3 short hits but it's gonna go dry in a kanger.

The limitation IS at the wick/tank interface. Right there where you have to ensure enough wick compression to stop leaking and you're in constant opposition with vacuum. When someone finds a way to overcome that let me know.

Oh yeah..........it's called a Lemo RTA!

Vape on friends and be happy with your kanger at 10 watts per coil if you've achieved it. It means you're doing great!

:)cig
 
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MacTechVpr

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If airflow was the MOST limiting factor with kangers then it wouldn't be producing TWICE the vapor output with rebuilt duals vs. rebuilt singles in an Aerotank. And it DOES. And at 10watts per coil the juice flow keeps up with as many 6-8 second hits as you can throw at it.

True, you can vape single coils at 15 watts or more if you take short and less frequent hits but NO wick medium will deliver sustained long chaining hits past 10watts in a kanger from my observations. Not kgd, rayon, nextel or any of the other half dozen mediums I have tried. Hell, if I pre-wet kgd like a dripper I can slam it with 30watts for 2 or 3 short hits but it's gonna go dry in a kanger.

The limitation IS at the wick/tank interface. Right there where you have to ensure enough wick compression to stop leaking and you're in constant opposition with vacuum. When someone finds a way to overcome that let me know.

Oh yeah..........it's called a Lemo RTA!

Vape on friends and be happy with your kanger at 10 watts per coil if you've achieved it. It means you're doing great!

:)cig

Sorry for the long rant. I would ask those of you really interested in curing performances issues, not just with Nextel, to take a few with this post. Some really crucial elements here.

I break the speed limit routinely cig. Insofar as the LEMO I'm waiting to see what Kanger has in the Sub b4 I start jumping on every kinda clearo kay rip comin down the pike from China. And I'd rather drop the dime on a US made quality device like the Stratos before we start endorsing and popularizing any others on this very effective venue at ECF helping them sell the stuff by showing folks how to rebuild it. China gets enough from us already.

i sorta disagree cig, as I just pointed out there are zero flow limits with Nextel at 60W. And while I don't prefer the XC-132 for that (experimenting now with trips, quads and 8's) I've run it at 60 watts without constraints singles and duals.

To be clear, that's to say that it never dried out as in a single on an RDA for example at those power levels provided eliq available, no hot spot/s, constrictions or damage to the weave.

You're absolutely right that 10 prob, 12 certainly is more than enough for the average user and those learning to rebuild. In that Kanger on KGD or Nextel is excellent.

We have to provide enough compression of cotton variants to seal the interface. That is a deficit. We don't have do that with Nextel. It has a rather ideal geometry for a 1.8-2.0mm slot. Nextel has a different problem. Although it's permeability is constricted by the tightness of the weave and 10 micron fiber matrix it can reach a saturation limit. And at high heat/power (pressed) and juice logged and it may disgorge as it cools. Some slight dampening of the interior of the cup may occur. Why does that happen?

Nextel's transport improves with power applied as it consistently vacates. There is no overall [saturation] limit even at 60W. If so where is the hint of a limit? Scorched taste? Where is the indication of inadequate transport? Even given high power there must be enough air to ensure transition. If pressed and flow is brought to a high rate with increasing heat and viscosity it will approach the limit and hit it if there is inadequate airflow.

Point made.

Vapor output diminishes relative to tank temperature overheating. Overheating in a closed tank only occurs when there is insufficient air to complement juice supply and adequate energy for vaporization. Otherwise you have equilibrium within the design. The result is oversupply of juice. Normal operation.

I've never taken a dry hit on properly kilned undamaged Nextel, ever (except at break-in on a practically dry wick). Only way I could see that happening is if the wick itself was constrained at setup. Stuff saturates instantly on contact. Occasionally some air locks in it when freshly installed. Nothing a dry tug don't resolve. But that's where you might take one, if you forget. In operation. Not to say it can't be done. Just never seen it.

The only times I've come remotely close to getting ahead of the vape in a KPT is with highly overtightened t.m.c.'s so flaming hot rather immediately that they were almost too hot to touch. Obviously a problem and you don't press that…

Reason, even in the improved Mega design it's pretty evident that even tightening up the thread tolerances has not resolved leaking past the threads at low viscosity. And the more power applied even during normal operation the greater the likelihood.

So you would tend to flood out, i.e. lose power efficiency, before you got to a dry state. If you have, your wick is constrained, crimped (same thing) or perhaps over-kilned. Now that I have encountered.

I would also add that I use Nextel extensively in a broad spectrum of devices and I do vape them dry. So I now perfectly how it comes about and to recognize it. And Nextel gives more ample warning of that condition than any other media I've encountered. It's a simple tell…vapor output and accordingly flavor starts to diminish. It feels like a dull battery. The same applies in a Protank but is indicative of too much power relative to flow and air. And it makes perfect sense, no air, no vaporization…no flavor.

Here I'm going to add an important insight, I think. There is no better way to sludge a PT, or any device, than to drive it hard underpowered. By that I mean in a low voltage state. In a Protank if you drop much below 7W and push it hard your are going to overheat just as badly as at the top with too many watts. Perhaps someone with much better understanding of batt's can kick in on this. You've dropped below the point of efficient power reg for the chip, are straining the battery and power is inadequate at the coil for efficient vaporization. You will gunk your coils madly if you do this routinely. On any device. With any wick. No matter how good or efficient the coil. It has the same effect as a bad contact short.

I've got some power variables coming in and we'll be looking at higher power op's in future to further test Nextel's limits. So far it's been a test of saturation and finding ways to more effectively reduce it.

:D

Cotton variants like KGD that have a linear fibre alignment I would have to conclude that something similar is happening.

I'd agree with ordinary cotton and to some extent rayon, if you're getting 10-12W you're doin' good. And for most of us that's just dandy.

Wish us luck.

:)
 
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MacTechVpr

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Hey Mac/Cig/Crg/etc.. can you recommend how to do a real tensioned micro coil with the twisted wire??? What I did was cut like an 8" length off the spool and then did the whole 'fold it in half, twist one end, wrap with the jig etc' method so I had to pretty much anchor one end in my hand drill and then hold the other with pliers to wrap the coil itself tightly but it still fought the whole way.. I suppose I can try to spool out a length and do it on the spool but this ones still working good so I dont wanna tear down the KFL yet haha..
It was even 'spongier' than normal it seemed after I twisted it, it was pretty tough pulling it tight and keeping it that way but I was hesitant to torch it beforehand after everything Ive read here.. I just got paid so Im gonna go order some 29ga in a sec and put the 32 aside for my PT2's anyways but still looking for a nice 'easy' way to do the twisted too..

Hand drill and needle nose twisted wire is about the norm. I prefer to hold the pliers under a foot and pull up lightly as I'm twisting. Too much tension applied and you know it breaks on ya. Start slow build up speed to a point that the velocity itself isn't adding too much strain to the wire. I try to get as tight a wrap as possible but avoid it snapping free. A bit of a challenge standing up to see the tightness of the twist but that's my preference. I feel I have more control that way rather than the arms-spread method.

When I can, I try to get some done on a bench press. Not everyone knows how to do it. You might ask if you have the opportunity. It's some of the cleanest, tightest. I'm guessing it's the higher torque that just adds to the uniformity of the twist. I've got a pretty good 12V batt handheld but it doesn't stack up to that.

To tension wind twisted I trap one end of the wire in a forceps or needle nose under the left knee and use the pin vise. That's why I recommended a sturdy one specifically for multi-wire and thick gauge. Tension wind then forearms resting on the thighs which affords one a level of control that's even better and more forceful than tabletop with a spool. I do parallels in the same manner. The downside is you may not have the benefit of a magnifier which is quite helpful particularly lining up twisted pair. Sometimes you just have to ad lib it and get creative with the furniture.

:D

Good luck.
 
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crg31953

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Just to continue the previous,

On the RxW I've been testing, I have soaked the 2mm wick in e-liquid for a minimum of 30 minutes. I can pull it out and the outside is coated, but if I squeeze it there is no liquid internally.

I have tested it in my GP Heron and pulled it through a .093 I.D., 1.2 ohm coil of 28 gauge in a loop style. Where the coil was holding two wicks and the loop was in contact with e-liquid saturated fluff and after 2 medium vapes it produced dry hits.

I took the Heron apart to check the wicking and found the outside of the wick to be coated in liquid. If I gave it a squeeze there was nothing, the only liquid was on the outside. The liquid had not penetrated the outer layer at all. Why the liquid had not penetrated the outer layer, I don't know. I do know that the 2mm is awfully tight after it has been cured in a kiln.

I am guessing the difference is between XC-132 and XC-116, XC-116 being run through a kiln. I will test the 3mm next and let you know!

Vape On My Friends!
 

cigatron

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Just to continue the previous,

On the RxW I've been testing, I have soaked the 2mm wick in e-liquid for a minimum of 30 minutes. I can pull it out and the outside is coated, but if I squeeze it there is no liquid internally.

I have tested it in my GP Heron and pulled it through a .093 I.D., 1.2 ohm coil of 28 gauge in a loop style. Where the coil was holding two wicks and the loop was in contact with e-liquid saturated fluff and after 2 medium vapes it produced dry hits.

I took the Heron apart to check the wicking and found the outside of the wick to be coated in liquid. If I gave it a squeeze there was nothing, the only liquid was on the outside. The liquid had not penetrated the outer layer at all. Why the liquid had not penetrated the outer layer, I don't know. I do know that the 2mm is awfully tight after it has been cured in a kiln.

I am guessing the difference is between XC-132 and XC-116, XC-116 being run through a kiln. I will test the 3mm next and let you know!

Vape On My Friends!

CRG, RBA's RXW nextel xc-116 (3mm) and xc-132 (slim) are both kilned from what I've read. I have tried the 2mm (slim) in kangers off and on for months and can't vape above 7.5watts when chaining 4 second draws. Repeated dry hits until I reach a "near empty" tank condition then it floods and I get juice in my mouth. I've tried it in .063, .065, .067 and .070 diameter micro, spaced and micro-spaced coils in 30, 29 and 28 awg. No go for me in tanks but maybe the 2ft. I received was over-kilned. Maybe Mac can elaborate on this.

:)cig
 

MacTechVpr

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CRG, RBA's RXW nextel xc-116 (3mm) and xc-132 (slim) are both kilned from what I've read. I have tried the 2mm (slim) in kangers off and on for months and can't vape above 7.5watts when chaining 4 second draws. Repeated dry hits until I reach a "near empty" tank condition then it floods and I get juice in my mouth. I've tried it in .063, .065, .067 and .070 diameter micro, spaced and micro-spaced coils in 30, 29 and 28 awg. No go for me in tanks but maybe the 2ft. I received was over-kilned. Maybe Mac can elaborate on this.

:)cig

Heard that. Sent you a couple (long) observations per PM. I'd like to get back to this but later…

Doing a hands on instructional for any and all comers at the Steam Lounge Vape Company in Fort Lauderdale, FL. So if you're in the vicinity, hit us up. I'll be covering maintenance and survival techniques for clearos and how to get it right with t.m.c.'s and ceramic wicks.

Couldn't make it up to the regular workshop up at COV. Weather miserable so staying local.

Glad to meet and help if you're around.

Good luck.

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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Just to continue the previous,

On the RxW I've been testing, I have soaked the 2mm wick in e-liquid for a minimum of 30 minutes. I can pull it out and the outside is coated, but if I squeeze it there is no liquid internally.

I have tested it in my GP Heron and pulled it through a .093 I.D., 1.2 ohm coil of 28 gauge in a loop style. Where the coil was holding two wicks and the loop was in contact with e-liquid saturated fluff and after 2 medium vapes it produced dry hits.

I took the Heron apart to check the wicking and found the outside of the wick to be coated in liquid. If I gave it a squeeze there was nothing, the only liquid was on the outside. The liquid had not penetrated the outer layer at all. Why the liquid had not penetrated the outer layer, I don't know. I do know that the 2mm is awfully tight after it has been cured in a kiln.

I am guessing the difference is between XC-132 and XC-116, XC-116 being run through a kiln. I will test the 3mm next and let you know!

Vape On My Friends!

CRG, RBA's RXW nextel xc-116 (3mm) and xc-132 (slim) are both kilned from what I've read. I have tried the 2mm (slim) in kangers off and on for months and can't vape above 7.5watts when chaining 4 second draws. Repeated dry hits until I reach a "near empty" tank condition then it floods and I get juice in my mouth. I've tried it in .063, .065, .067 and .070 diameter micro, spaced and micro-spaced coils in 30, 29 and 28 awg. No go for me in tanks but maybe the 2ft. I received was over-kilned. Maybe Mac can elaborate on this.

:)cig

Ok I'm back. Caught a quick bite and settling in.

Going back to your original quote, I must have missed your 2nd par. Guess I couldn't get my brain around it. And as tired as I am, perhaps because of it, it just stuck out at me….

How did you get a double wick inside of .093" i.d.?

Without micro-analyzing XC-132's wall thickness (.1mm) and it's typical saturated dimensions….a .14mm don't go into a .093mm cig. If I haven't read you wrong you're constricting the wick by 34%. I've mentioned that a nominally tight deflection might be on the order of 10%. I believe the normally .1mm sidewall may expand by as much as .04-.05mm. So if you take kilned media that's roughly about 1.72mm you'll get to about 1.82mm soggy with a slight deflection by .07" (1.778mm) of 2.3%. You're talking about 10X that level of compression.

Yes I would say you're crimped. In fact what you're describing overall is a crimped wick.

BTW per coiltoy's calc the monster center-twist dual is rated a 19W capacity. It's probably somewhat higher but I wouldn't know how to begin calculating the efficiencies gained by this wind. I'd need to confer with a materials and fluid engineer to work out the math. Suffice it to say it would be to some degree higher. That said, at 17.5W, 1.778mm i.d. on the ZNA the Mega does crisp 4-sec pulls with a medium density tobacco upward of 12 times and as many as 20 with no dry hits. Quite the opposite. Done this repeatedly throughout the afternoon on one test tank alternating between the ZNA and IPV2S. Towards the top end juice temperatures rise and what you need to watch for is flooding. Especially on decreased battery power.

I should note this is not a fresh wick/wind. It's some 7-8 days in. It has yet to be washed as I've been babyin' it with a periodic replenishment of 1/4-1/3 tank of straight VG as I start to detect a color change to then resume with the straight tobacco blend. The other trigger to suggest the VG infusion is any substantial increase of flooding at the base threading. Definitely if confirmed by any residue in the base. I usually recommend wash and dry burn if there's a hint of either.

If I discontinue the VG it will definitely need to go to the wash within two fills. But it's running strong cig.

So the question that's gnawing at me is could there be a constriction in your install somewhere. Are you using the same diameter for a top wick? I am running aftermarket Protank 3 open-slot Kanger equivalents.

LMK and good luck.

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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Rommel said: Tension winding will be my next big thing to experiment with, MacTechVpr has convinced me.

MacTechVpr said: Rom, it's like home plate. It's where we start from and where we'd like to end up. And the measure of everywhere we've been in between.

Good luck all.

:)
 
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