Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

[cigatron]

Mac, hopefully you can find some time to build the rba shortly. I need yours and brooks eval to determine whether I exchange the mini or get a refund.

Thanks for the info on the occ's but if it won't perform with the rba I'm not interested in hanging on to it. My Egrip w/rba blows this thing out of the water for vapor density (flavor) as it is. Won't even go into how much better the Lemo is. Never a dryish or diffused vape from either of those.

Build it, build it, build it!!!!!

 

[MacTechVpr]

Mac, hopefully you can find some time to build the rba shortly. I need yours and brooks eval to determine whether I exchange the mini or get a refund.

Thanks for the info on the occ's but if it won't perform with the rba I'm not interested in hanging on to it. My Egrip w/rba blows this thing out of the water for vapor density (flavor) as it is. Won't even go into how much better the Lemo is. Never a dryish or diffused vape from either of those.

Build it, build it, build it!!!!!

I hear ya bud. It's a big concern. Big bada-boom, if it's a problem.

But that's why I ordered the Mini straight up. Wanted to see the RBA potential on the Mini even as I do see the Sub as the better candidate for more complex diverse builds you want to run for a while. Tank capacity supports that kind of building.

No the potential I see for the Mini is in getting the OCC rebuild outperforming the stocker. I think that's going to really be what finally makes the Kanger's an important bridge to the vaping universe for a heck of a lot of new vapers. A promise the Atlantis can't fulfill. Really smart move by Kanger if the OCC is rebuildable…and if transitioning those builds works simply and effectively...and in a like manner on the RBA side, i.e. same type of fundamental coil builds. Bigger, badder comes later.

In other words, can I acclimate from building 1.2Ω straight t.m.c.'s in the OCC that works every day on my reg variable. Learn to build the sub-Ω on the RBA 'till I'm comfortable with that production and confident in the result. Switch the simple OCC out to the RBA to go from my 50W to a big power mech box with the subbie on the fly. Now that's utility in one device.

If they don't cig, why you're right…the value is markedly diminished. In my mind, and I think it will be in the thoughts of many users. Works for one and not the other, no workee. Just another and significantly expensive clearomizer to purchase and keep running.

Thanks for your effort. I'm tryin' to get to it.

Wish us luck.

 

[brookj1986]

Mac, hopefully you can find some time to build the rba shortly. I need yours and brooks eval to determine whether I exchange the mini or get a refund.

Thanks for the info on the occ's but if it won't perform with the rba I'm not interested in hanging on to it. My Egrip w/rba blows this thing out of the water for vapor density (flavor) as it is. Won't even go into how much better the Lemo is. Never a dryish or diffused vape from either of those.

Build it, build it, build it!!!!!

Should have mine Thursday or Friday to go along with a 30 watt Istick that I hope my girlfriend likes more than her vv v3. I'm tired of the priming process I have to go through to change her carto tanks. I want something she'll enjoy that can be pushed higher than 9 watts without leakage or burning. hoping that the istick/ subtank mini fits this.

 

[clnire]

I have a question please. I have not seen this before and I am sure there is a simple answer but ... No I have not searched for the answer because I figured it could take me hours to figure it out and you guys are so good I could just ask and get an answer, or a direction, quickly.

I have never seen this before. I have built many of these assemblies and can do it in mere minutes. Building a kanger single bottom coil. 30 g kanthal, .070 mandrel (on my new Cigatron V2 coil tool), 7 wraps (shooting for around 1.8 Ω). Everything looked perfect. Assembled the head, everything nice and tight (sorry no pictures as my phone was in use elsewhere), screwed it onto the base and check ohms. read 0.00. Took it off the base, check for nibby wires not cut close enough, nope. Centered in the head (not touching sides of the head assembly), yep. Still 0.00. OK, I screwed something up. 3 more coils, same result. In my frustration I grabbed a another assembly I coiled last night (same configuration) and 1.8 Ω. So fine, put the troublesome assembly aside and came to ask.

Last night I rebuilt 3 different assemblies the same way to test my new tool. (it's a great tool with changeable mandrels). All tested 1.8-1.9 Ω So why is this one assembly giving me a hard time? It is a spare I have not used before, I even grabbed a new grommet because the one in there looked iffy (great factory QC . The coil itself was nicely seated in the assembly, I did not have the chimney on so that is not the problem.

Any insight, ideas, answers??? greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

 

[cigatron]

I have a question please. I have not seen this before and I am sure there is a simple answer but ... No I have not searched for the answer because I figured it could take me hours to figure it out and you guys are so good I could just ask and get an answer, or a direction, quickly.

I have never seen this before. I have built many of these assemblies and can do it in mere minutes. Building a kanger single bottom coil. 30 g kanthal, .070 mandrel (on my new Cigatron V2 coil tool), 7 wraps (shooting for around 1.8 Ω). Everything looked perfect. Assembled the head, everything nice and tight (sorry no pictures as my phone was in use elsewhere), screwed it onto the base and check ohms. read 0.00. Took it off the base, check for nibby wires not cut close enough, nope. Centered in the head (not touching sides of the head assembly), yep. Still 0.00. OK, I screwed something up. 3 more coils, same result. In my frustration I grabbed a another assembly I coiled last night (same configuration) and 1.8 Ω. So fine, put the troublesome assembly aside and came to ask.

Last night I rebuilt 3 different assemblies the same way to test my new tool. (it's a great tool with changeable mandrels). All tested 1.8-1.9 Ω So why is this one assembly giving me a hard time? It is a spare I have not used before, I even grabbed a new grommet because the one in there looked iffy (great factory QC . The coil itself was nicely seated in the assembly, I did not have the chimney on so that is not the problem.

Any insight, ideas, answers??? greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

Wow C, strange. I had one coil head that read "no atomizer" no matter how I built it. It was too short in height so the pos pin wouldn't reach the battery contact.

One time I rebuilt a head 4 times and got 0.0 (check atomizer) only to realize I had put both wires on the outside of the insulator.....4 times in a row!!!...lol

As cheap as they are?.....got a hammer?...

 

[clnire]

Wow C, strange. I had one coil head that read "no atomizer" no matter how I built it. It was too short in height so the pos pin wouldn't reach the battery contact.

One time I rebuilt a head 4 times and got 0.0 (check atomizer) only to realize I had put both wires on the outside of the insulator.....4 times in a row!!!...lol

As cheap as they are?.....got a hammer?...

Yea, the hammer was a definite thought. I just may trash that particular assembly cuz I have plenty more that don't give me any problems! I know wire is cheap but it pains me the nice coils I scrapped.

Edit: no atomizer I could troubleshoot. 0.00 ohms is the puzzler. Oh well, as I said I have plenty of spares! Just wont toss the new grommet, positive pin and chimney with cup

 

[MacTechVpr]

I know. I hate mysteries.

But when in doubt, toss it out. I always lose farky heads. Takes seconds to wind another one.



p.s. But .00 smells like trouble at the carto-meter.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Wow C, strange. I had one coil head that read "no atomizer" no matter how I built it. It was too short in height so the pos pin wouldn't reach the battery contact.

One time I rebuilt a head 4 times and got 0.0 (check atomizer) only to realize I had put both wires on the outside of the insulator.....4 times in a row!!!...lol

As cheap as they are?.....got a hammer?...

Yep, variations as in pin heights, I think you've mentioned too cig that have plagued clearo's forever. Figure these things are being made all over China at dozens, maybe hundreds, of sites at various times.

Yet it does appear producers there have listened to the cacophony of voices pointing out these inadequacies and Kanger most definitely as evidenced now with the Sub/Mini.

And so have prominent members of the video reviewer community including the nexus for many of these ideas...this thread, right down to the importance of things such as termination in the direction of turn exit as elements critical to the reliable functioning of these devices. Evidence, these recent releases by two notables we all know (but who don't seem to know us)…





▶ A PBusardo Review - Mini & Nano Subtanks - YouTube (Couldn't embed both, ECF restricted. Mod help?)

Really great emphasis by PB about the lead hanger and RBA housing contact! Stella​, he says of the concept. I agreed.

Thanks both Pete and Rip for some great videos.

So for newer rebuilders looking to find the dynamics on assembly ^^^^^ there ya go! Some basic primers for ya. Just don't expect too much of an explanation as the "why" things are being done. Or, why things taste like ayss. That you can get in spades right here on the Protank Microcoil thread starting with the word symmetry. We're old hands at it and always a veteran around to point the way.

It's really gratifying to see both these pro's getting closer to disseminating the notion of a proper electrical circuit. And hopefully we'll get to adhesion another day.

You, the participants on this thread, have been the practical confirmation for these workable principles. Viewership on this thread has shot through the roof the past few months so the word is out. It gets out because of you. Thank you.

So you, yeah you just landing on this page, let's make the magic happen! Join the discussion. Show us your success in RGB!

Good luck all.

 

[pjmarkert]

I don't know why all the mfr's don't do like Sigelei and have a deep 510 connector and a spring loaded center pin. My attys always sit flush on the mod and always make contact.

 

[cigatron]

I don't know why all the mfr's don't do like Sigelei and have a deep 510 connector and a spring loaded center pin. My attys always sit flush on the mod and always make contact.

It's becoming more popular. Istick 30 & 50w, IPV2 & 3. And others. Originally the mods that had spring loaded pins delivered current through the spring. Big no no. Now most if not all have the hot wire attached to the pos terminal and the spring serves only as a spring.

Oh and......Hello PJ! Long time bro

 

[MacTechVpr]

Yea, the hammer was a definite thought. I just may trash that particular assembly cuz I have plenty more that don't give me any problems! I know wire is cheap but it pains me the nice coils I scrapped.

Edit: no atomizer I could troubleshoot. 0.00 ohms is the puzzler. Oh well, as I said I have plenty of spares! Just wont toss the new grommet, positive pin and chimney with cup

Any headway C? Another poster suggesting the RBA housing was not a good fit to the base. I haven't looked at it yet but hope to today.

G'luck, take care.

 

[clnire]

Na, I put housing away, the parts with my parts, and moved on to others that don't give me any problems not worth the frustration.

 

[digital_karma]

how's the rba part performance compared to kfl+? can I wick it the same as kayfun wicking (angled coils with the wick forming lettern Z) thanks!

 

[cigatron]

how's the rba part performance compared to kfl+? can I wick it the same as kayfun wicking (angled coils with the wick forming lettern Z) thanks!

It's not set up for mtl hitting. All the airflow settings are set up for lung hitting. The coil mounting angle is limited to almost straight alignment.

 

[MacTechVpr]

It's not set up for mtl hitting. All the airflow settings are set up for lung hitting. The coil mounting angle is limited to almost straight alignment.

Pretty much surmised it would be tight cig. That's why I set this one up for the unadulterated taste comparison, the ultimate mouth-to-lung machine. It's seen just about every kind of build you can imagine. Most were damn plain ugly. LOL. Still my favorite.

G'luck and have a good one.

 

[brookj1986]

What atty is that?

 

[MacTechVpr]

What atty is that?

That is the iconoclastic Chief Pat Vapers Immortalizer, my reference standard device for flavor. It runs strictly KGD and Ekowool (NexT is better in it but too constrained by tight bends). It's a BF AF device which I've bored out at the base and outer shell to improve the air supply. It's aspirated by two very small air holes in the ceramic base. Just found after quite some time a source for a "cyclops" single-slit ceramic base and that'll go in on the next rebuild on 1/4 authentics I have in the stable. I've yet to see a device that delivers as broad a flavor palate as one of these at the right power and with the right build. So these see a lot of duty in the background typically on sub-15W var mods. A very underestimated atty this.

Always gets attention b and most every one enjoys the flavor that try it. Next answer, not for me. LOL You can't muscle performance out of it. You really do have to match the build to the juice with this one. Or, you get a warm vape with no more vapor than before. Trick is to build them cool enough (with tension) to get them <1Ω. The caveat, you need to have the air. I've seen people go to extraordinary lengths to do that. I chose a middle ground which required some actual machining but remains truer to the original design.

I strongly recommend it.



G'luck and have a good one.

BTW, let us know what/if you get anywhere on the Mini. I'm trying to get to it this morning.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Na, I put housing away, the parts with my parts, and moved on to others that don't give me any problems not worth the frustration.

For a minute…I pondered…you might be giving up the Kangers.

No rest for the afflicted however. LOL

Never mind.



G'luck all.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Just wanted to take a moment to thank Mazinny for breaking up the monotony of my 4-juice tobacco test standard by favoring me with some samples of some real honest-to-goodness NET's. You're a pal. Thank you!

As part of a baseline comparison, took the opportunity use some of the excellent HHV Purity Shadow into a Mega with the v3 (multi-hole slit) base. Subtank runs all use a light or mid blend medium density of well pigmented tobacco (equiv to Boba's or darker) which does incorporate an NET component.

As to the juice, it's not the earthiness and throat hit of some of the more formidable examples from HHV I've sampled. But for an experienced and mainstream vaper whose revitalized the taste buds a very rewarding experience. HHV says it's not but it travels down the palet like one, a very respectable RY4 with a desert tinge of dryness and compelling subtle cigar feel. I've liked it so much I'll be ordering some even as I wouldn't have gone out of my way to do so 'till now. Thanks again Maz. I haven't particularly liked juices whose flavorings mimic nic hit but this one does so delightfully. Shadow resembles a great many of the Western type blends deeply infused with toasted almond to derive that fiery sensation. And the most notable of these as I recall was a juice reviewed last year by Rip Trip Smokin Flue Cured which he declared at the time as the best he'd had (but is no more). Need to vape it some still to identify the appropriate RY4, TA or NET base for it but I will not doubt be trying my hand at emulating this very vapeable juice to add my own peculiar embellishments.

Nestled the Mega atop a Smok X-pro BT50W and have been running the monster and our standard 29AWG with NexT winds for a very interesting taste comparison vs. the new Sub and Mini tanks. All performing admirably and gratifyingly clean too Maz, for the record.

A footnote seems to be that the new fine hole slit bases from Kanger are an order of magnitude better! They finally seem to get just how much changes in viscosity have contributed to base seeping. I was almost convinced no one was vaping any of these tanks over there (watching the videos at times, almost convinced). But all three bases…Aero, Mega and Subs…remain respectably dry, particularly the latter, compared to previous versions with factory or NexT rebuild coils. And that is a very satisfying discovery indeed.

Good luck all.

 

[brookj1986]

That is the iconoclastic Chief Pat Vapers Immortalizer, my reference standard device for flavor. It runs strictly KGD and Ekowool (NexT is better in it but too constrained by tight bends). It's a BF AF device which I've bored out at the base and outer shell to improve the air supply. It's aspirated by two very small air holes in the ceramic base. Just found after quite some time a source for a "cyclops" single-slit ceramic base and that'll go in on the next rebuild on 1/4 authentics I have in the stable. I've yet to see a device that delivers as broad a flavor palate as one of these at the right power and with the right build. So these see a lot of duty in the background typically on sub-15W var mods. A very underestimated atty this.

Always gets attention b and most every one enjoys the flavor that try it. Next answer, not for me. LOL You can't muscle performance out of it. You really do have to match the build to the juice with this one. Or, you get a warm vape with no more vapor than before. Trick is to build them cool enough (with tension) to get them <1Ω. The caveat, you need to have the air. I've seen people go to extraordinary lengths to do that. I chose a middle ground which required some actual machining but remains truer to the original design.

I strongly recommend it.



G'luck and have a good one.

BTW, let us know what/if you get anywhere on the Mini. I'm trying to get to it this morning.

Mini should be in my mailbox when I get home. Will try the rta first.