OK - almost 300 pages, to many to read so I'll start by apologizing for asking questions that I'm sure have been asked/replied too.
I've been rebuilding PT heads for almost two years, probably wrong...but hey, they work! Eventually after enough dry burns, the insulator will start to scorch. I've just recently submitted by second order to Lightning Vapes for replacements. Upon receipt, will rebuild the bad one's.
Now for the questions, if answered, please feel free to simply link me to the answer or a video.
1) For the PT - what's the best tool to use for tension wrapping a coil? I've been building using a blunt tip needle, somewhere between a 1/16 and 5/64 bit I think. Not sure what gauge it is. But....doing a tension wind on this didn't work well at all.
2) Best way to keep legs from getting hot. Given I'm not going to weld NR wire legs on is there a way to prevent this. I've read some put the coil on an RDA and fire it stating passing electricity through it helps/prevents this assuming the coil is as close to the rda posts as possible. If this is the way - what RDA is recommended. I attempted to try this on a Kayfun deck, but had a number of problems. (a) the posts are to wide and separated the coil I made for PT (b) the posts require the wire to be wrapped around the set screw thus distorting the wire. Is there a better deck to use where the wire goes through the posts and the set screw is tightened down onto the wire?
As this is a Kanger thread .........I guess the same questions would also apply to the SubTank. I've got a mini on the way (in addition to my first 50w VW regulated mod) and will probably experiment with rebuilding those OCC heads. Wife likes the idea of grabbing a coil, dropping it in, fill the tank and go. Using the RBA deck for her just won't cut it. Since I've got the ST on the way, I also ordered up some 26ga Kanthal - assuming this should work.
Is a touching tension coil the best on this platform ... or spaced?
I've read the best tool to use is something like a 3mm screwdriver - anyone got a link to what they use?
Like I said.... as above, how in the hell do you prevent burning the insulator and if done, are they as of yet replaceable?
Thx all for the help.
Hi T and welcome. No I don't blame you. I've dropped enough of a word count here to probably equal
War and Peace. Still a good read for you as you go along. It's just not necessary right now. You just need to get the tool and make one.
I'll start with your first question…there is no better form or definition for a perfected coil than a tensioned micro coil. The reason is that the very definition of such a coil depends upon an optimal state of oxidation. Much of the process of winding and adjusting, correcting, etc. by other means and wind methods are rendered unnecessary if we rely on one simple and powerful tool — STRAIN. And the simplest way to apply strain, the most direct form, is using an ordinary pin vise. The same tool used by industry as the most practical for creating coil winds for generations.
Why is oxidation important? A Kanthal wire absent an uniformly insulating alumina oxide layer
is not perfected. Look at its definition from the inception of its use. It runs in an efficient way whether a tensioned wind, multi-wire or open coil based on its ability to be adequately oxidized. Fail to get that in whole or part and you don't have a functional coil in practice or actuality. You have something that
resembles an atomizer coil in appearance but not function. Because tension winding invokes molecular force to induce the closest turn-to-turn proximity (adhesion) there is no other type of wind we know that comes close to accomplishing as uniform an oxidation as a tension wind when it is electrically annealed, the most benign way to achieve its insulation. To the degree that others
cannot they are inefficient and incapable of producing the same volume or density of vapor given similar parameters of mass, etc. Not physically possible.
Why? Because the effectiveness or efficiency of an atomizer coil is not simply a factor of its resistance or how much heat it gives off. The measure of a builds efficiency is, oddly enough, how well it actually vaporizes.
So, what we have is a simple method to produce a straightforward wind, in as optimized a state as can physically be approximated and so simple a child could do it. And they do with tension and pin vise every day around the world. Better still, once one is even moderately adept at the technique you will be able to make virtual mirror images of your winds.
Why is that important? Well, because aside from all the marvelous things we do on ECF which we all enjoy there is one thing we want to do reliably and predictably — get to our vape. Winding to an effective metric is our insurance that will always be possible. Not maybe, not close; but every time. As well to gauge how every other experiment fares against that experience. But I would emphasize that a tensioned contact microcoii is as much a wind as a process which I describe on this thread and other pages.
I'd suggest starting with this post T...
Find the appropriate pin vise… then continuing with the dozen or so general posts on the advanced thread...
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. This will start to give you some appreciation for some of the terms used for this coil and method. Save your time, do advanced searches for terms or concepts on the
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! thread where the underlying approaches for termination, oxidation, symmetry, etc. are discussed.
If at any time things get quizzical post a lifeline or PM me. I'd be glad to help.
Good luck T.
p.s. I've PM'd a special external link.
