Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

Status
Not open for further replies.

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
True Chanel, but subohming is more of a mind set than a requirement. The vaping world has seemed to embrace subohming as a necessity when indeed it is not. I reserve my subohm builds for my mech mod where it is needed to push wattage up to acceptable levels. My Lemo and STm get 1.1-1.3ohm builds. I run them at 30-35w with large airflow. Flavor is off the chain with both. Not sure how it would compare to a taifun. Here's the thing.....I only have to take 2-2.5sec pulls. batteries last just as long as taking 4-5sec pulls at 15w. The higher wattage and airflow combo brings way better flavor to the table imo than lower wattages. In addition, the wicking seems to last forever and the coil gunking is far reduced. I just changed my STm wick after 75ml and my Lemo wick after 95ml. That's insanely convenient!

If you are mtl hitter the Lemo and STm afc's can be adjusted for that and can be run at lower wattages with your standard pt builds. Larger juice capacity, no gurgles, no leaks, no burny hits, shorter pulls and better flavor? Win win win......imo.

I stuck with the PT variants as long as I could....just had to move on I guess....
 
Last edited:

chanelvaps

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 3, 2013
16,016
85,224
Burbank CAlifornia
Just when I thought I was satisfied with what I had there you go convincing me...urgghh back to looking into a Lemo. :facepalm:
Thanks Cig!


True Chanel, but subohming is more of a mind set than a requirement. The vaping world has seemed to embrace subohming as a necessity when indeed it is not. I reserve my subohm builds for my mech mod where it is needed to push wattage up to acceptable levels. My Lemo and STm get 1.1-1.3ohm builds. I run them at 30-35w with large airflow. Flavor is off the chain with both. Not sure how it would compare to a taifun. Here's the thing.....I only have to take 2-2.5sec pulls. Batteries last just as long as taking 4-5sec pulls at 15w. The higher wattage and airflow combo brings way better flavor to the table imo than lower wattages. In addition, the wicking seems to last forever and the coil gunking is far reduced. I just changed my STm wick after 75ml and my Lemo wick after 95ml. That's insanely convenient!

If you are mtl hitter the Lemo and STm afc's can be adjusted for that and can be run at lower wattages with your standard pt builds. Larger juice capacity, no gurgles, no leaks, no burny hits, shorter pulls and better flavor? Win win win......imo.

I stuck with the PT variants as long as I could....just had to move on I guess....
 

chanelvaps

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 3, 2013
16,016
85,224
Burbank CAlifornia
Actually my next adventure is going to be learning to extract tobacco. I have my tobacco, filters and equipment all bought and on its way. After the I get that down I will be looking for a Lemo. Where did you get yours Cig and do you have the full size or the Lemo Drop?

Just when I thought I was satisfied with what I had there you go convincing me...urgghh back to looking into a Lemo. :facepalm:
Thanks Cig!
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
Actually my next adventure is going to be learning to extract tobacco. I have my tobacco, filters and equipment all bought and on its way. After the I get that down I will be looking for a Lemo. Where did you get yours Cig and do you have the full size or the Lemo Drop?

Got my full size at a local b&m. It's a dripper killer....convenience wise. Flavor is in your face.

Ps. There's a version 2 available through preorder. Check out the Lemo 2.
 
Last edited:

Taylor7617

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 5, 2013
499
659
Humble, Texas, United States
Sorry all.......but have some noob twisted questions:

Does using twisted lead to a cooler vape? Better flavor?

As I'm about to start experimenting on the ST mini, can this be used with the OCC or is it best reserved for the RBA?

Lastly, since this is twisted, assume the previous mentions of "tension" can't really be done as I'd think it would distort the wire but I may be wrong. Is it best to still use a Jig or Wire Gizmo type tool or by hand over a particular rod/drill bit? I think either way you could get them close...just wondering if there is a 'best practice' and/or a couple vid's a guy could watch. All I've seen is HOW to twist which seems easy either with a drill or by hand using a pen cap (assuming wire is pulled tight while twisting).

I've got 32, 30 (which I was using on ProTanks), 28 which I used on REO and 26 ga which i just rec'd (purchased on a whim for the helluva it) ... Preferred gauge for builds? I'd probably like to stay in the 1ohm range but willing to try just about anything once. LOL

Thanks
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
I use tension wound spaced twisted 32g in every rta I own. I think it's produces the coolest vape and best flavor of anything I've tried. The build for my subtank mini is:

32g twisted (30 twists per inch), 6 wraps tension wound on a 6-32 screw (2.77mm ID), 1.15 ohm, wicked very heavy with a 9.5-10mm wide strip of skinned kgd.

The build for my other rtas is identical except it has one more wrap and comes in at 1.4ohms. I would do this for the STmini too if not for space contraints.

I twist the strands with a drill set to the slowest speed. About 10ft. at a time so I don't have to twist so often. I anneal the twisted wire with a small torch or lighter 4 or 5 times to a glowing red color before tension winding it on the 6-32 screw.

I'm not sayn' it's for everyone. Heck, I've only wound 300 or so coils, contact and spaced, so there could be something better out there but I'm so happy with spaced twisted 32g that my dripper has been relegated to flavor testing new juices.
 
Last edited:

chanelvaps

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 3, 2013
16,016
85,224
Burbank CAlifornia
The only time I have used twisted is 28 gauge. Somebody sent it to me. I loved the flavor but seemed so long to heat up. Maybe I need to try the 32 gauge. I wound mine tension style on a cigamajig.
I use tension wound spaced twisted 32g in every rta I own. I think it's produces the coolest vape and best flavor of anything I've tried. The build for my subtank mini is:

32g twisted (30 twists per inch), 6 wraps tension wound on a 6-32 screw (2.77mm ID), 1.15 ohm, wicked very heavy with a 9.5-10mm wide strip of skinned kgd.

The build for my other rtas is identical except it has one more wrap and comes in at 1.4ohms. I would do this for the STmini too if not for space contraints.

I twist the strands with a drill set to the slowest speed. About 10ft. at a time so I don't have to twist so often. I anneal the twisted wire with a small torch or lighter 4 or 5 times to a glowing red color before tension winding it on the 6-32 screw.

I'm not sayn' it's for everyone. Heck, I've only wound 300 or so coils, contact and spaced, so there could be something better out there but I'm so happy with spaced twisted 32g that my dripper has been relegated to flavor testing new juices.
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
The only time I have used twisted is 28 gauge. Somebody sent it to me. I loved the flavor but seemed so long to heat up. Maybe I need to try the 32 gauge. I wound mine tension style on a cigamajig.

Right Chanel, 28g has more mass so it heats and cools slower which also has another negative; increased coil gunking. But wait, heat up time is wattage dependent. With the limited airflow of protanks comes limted power levels (15w or so). Put that twisted 28g in a subtank mini or lemo that has huge airflow and crank the power up to 30w; rocket fast firing! My brother likes twisted 28g in his Lemo because it's easier to deal with than 32 (less flimsy) and he runs at 35+ watts all the time.
 

chanelvaps

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 3, 2013
16,016
85,224
Burbank CAlifornia
I was using it in a Sigelei Taj .. dripper, lots of airflow. On either a Mod or on an IPV mini. Wattage was there as was airflow.
Would not have put it in a Protank.
Right Chanel, 28g has more mass so it heats and cools slower which also has another negative; increased coil gunking. But wait, heat up time is wattage dependent. With the limited airflow of protanks comes limted power levels (15w or so). Put that twisted 28g in a subtank mini or lemo that has huge airflow and crank the power up to 30w; rocket fast firing! My brother likes twisted 28g in his Lemo because it's easier to deal with than 32 (less flimsy) and he runs at 35+ watts all the time.
 

Taylor7617

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 5, 2013
499
659
Humble, Texas, United States
I use tension wound spaced twisted 32g in every rta I own. I think it's produces the coolest vape and best flavor of anything I've tried. The build for my subtank mini is:

32g twisted (30 twists per inch), 6 wraps tension wound on a 6-32 screw (2.77mm ID), 1.15 ohm, wicked very heavy with a 9.5-10mm wide strip of skinned kgd.

The build for my other rtas is identical except it has one more wrap and comes in at 1.4ohms. I would do this for the STmini too if not for space contraints.

I twist the strands with a drill set to the slowest speed. About 10ft. at a time so I don't have to twist so often. I anneal the twisted wire with a small torch or lighter 4 or 5 times to a glowing red color before tension winding it on the 6-32 screw.

I'm not sayn' it's for everyone. Heck, I've only wound 300 or so coils, contact and spaced, so there could be something better out there but I'm so happy with spaced twisted 32g that my dripper has been relegated to flavor testing new juices.


That's about the range I thought about shooting for. So, twisted 32g looks to be about right all depending on # wraps and rod/screw diameter. Not sure why, but I thought most might be using 30/28 ga for their twisted setups. Like I said in earlier post, I bought 26 gauge for single coil but since I have plenty of 32 ga it would be great to experiment. Thanks!
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
Not sure why, but I thought most might be using 30/28 ga for their twisted setups.

Most are Taylor, with the notion that if they don't subohm they're missing the boat; that they can't run high power. A ridiculous assertion with todays box mods imo. I chain vape my STmini at 30-35w daily with power levels peaking at around 45w. Not a lot of peeps doing that with any of their subohm builds. Granted, most are limited by their poor wicking techniques but still, winding thinner wire yeilds lightening fast firing times and fast cooling times....both significantly reducing coil gunking. Add to that a spaced wind and you can forget about changing your wicking for a week when using all but the dirtiest juices. Even vaping NETs I'm getting 20ml minimum out of a wick with 32 twisted spaced coils......good times
 

MacTechVpr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2013
5,723
14,403
Hollywood (Beach), FL
Sorry all.......but have some noob twisted questions:

Does using twisted lead to a cooler vape? Better flavor?

As I'm about to start experimenting on the ST mini, can this be used with the OCC or is it best reserved for the RBA?

Lastly, since this is twisted, assume the previous mentions of "tension" can't really be done as I'd think it would distort the wire but I may be wrong. Is it best to still use a Jig or Wire Gizmo type tool or by hand over a particular rod/drill bit? I think either way you could get them close...just wondering if there is a 'best practice' and/or a couple vid's a guy could watch. All I've seen is HOW to twist which seems easy either with a drill or by hand using a pen cap (assuming wire is pulled tight while twisting).

I've got 32, 30 (which I was using on ProTanks), 28 which I used on REO and 26 ga which i just rec'd (purchased on a whim for the helluva it) ... Preferred gauge for builds? I'd probably like to stay in the 1ohm range but willing to try just about anything once. LOL

Thanks

Hi T, thx for joining us. No sorry. Welcome.

I'm going to start with a simple analogy. When we go to scramble a couple of eggs, do we throw the big pan on the small burner? Or, the one that fits? Ever try and cook on one like that?

<pause>

We need to build and compare to a standard T. If we don't someone else's (supposed) standard ain't gonna work for ya when ya do it. Plain and simple. And there's way too much of that here on ECF makin' it all the harder for all of us to find what we like. The reasoning behind my choices are that for this to be an apples-for-apples comparison we must be lookin' at the same pan…that is, the same wire mass. Otherwise, it's the pressure cooker vs. the sauté pan. No makin' sense of that. Then everybody's claim is valid and meaningless at the same time.

Now for folks just starting out any build that works is a marvel. Unfortunately at that stage we have zero notion of what efficiency is or the balance between diffusion of vapor and vaporization. What that entails for the flavor and texture result. That's unfortunate because we tend to get locked in to some of our first choices. Like the first car make we buy or like. And for many that's the result that's retained as a preference…often to the exclusion of most else. I find that sad. There is so much to enjoy here. I've tried to taylor my contributions to this thread so as to give new vapers a chance at being able to build those differences, all of them, effectively. First, by finding the middle ground as best as possible to have a balanced appreciation of the result. These atomizers are not a haphazard guess T. The producers do make them to accommodate their best estimation of what most of us are likely to enjoy. Find that mean and it's the point in the road where all the sign posts live.

Merely matching resistance is not a meaningful comparison. It may be the balance of power…but it doesn't consider function or efficiency.

Gonna throw up three examples for you to look at of comparable wire mass (the measure of capacity to do work). I'll be talkin' more about this as needed. You go ahead, take a look and decide what's more likely to give you good overall performance. Consider the above analogy...


26AWG 7/7, 2.778mm i.d., LL=9, WS=0, t.m.c. = .99Ω (standard t.m.c.)

32AWG TP 5/5, 2.778mm i.d., TP=.606 (1.5Ø) LL=9, WS=0.202 t.m.c. = 1.67 Ω (twisted pair)

32AWG 6/6, 2.778mm i.d., LL=9, t.m.c. = 1.5625 Ω (dual coil, equiv. to the twisted)


You'll notice that to do the same work you've got to up the resistance considerably. Not even accounting for the inefficiencies of incomplete oxidation that multi wire builds all share (causes excess heat in operation), you gotta wonder just how much pan is off the burner in the last two T. You see the ONLY part of the coil that matters…the part that does the work., the surface area everybody keeps talkin' about isn't the big pan per se but the part that's wet by the juice, DIRECTLY. The more you put exactly there, the more business get's done. That's what we're talkin' about. And that is the essential principle of the tensioned microcoil. That it concentrates energy efficiently where we need the work. Not more than needed, but just enough. Exactly.

Note too that twisted and dual are much hotter in how much energy is throws off overall (heat flux). But, if you compare the surface area and the proportion of working surface you have to wonder what all the hubbub is about. Only way to make them remotely equal is to go thinner wire and more of it (total wraps, longer, don't fit). Why does thick wire and multi wire produce more so says everyone? Read their posts. Look at what they're using for output power. Can always make a Pinto go fast if you floor it. Just sayin'. But is it smoke T, or vapor? Most often unequal winds are being compared to increase multi wire's surface area.

For a better perspective of dimension (and whether it even fits on the ST RBA) check out Coil Toy. Coil lengths are, per coil. There is no selection for twisted, dual forward is an approximation slightly to the high side. You can increase the coil diameter. That's what Kanger chose to do to approximate the efficiency of a microcoil. But that implies more wick (flow) requiring well, more power.

Match wick, wire and airflow been sayin' for over a year. But very importantly...it's gotta fit. The coil is the pan we throw it on for the power (heat) we want to apply.

Everything else is just that, excess.

Look, I'm not going to be gettin' into much detail on multi-wire non-contact rebuilding on this thread. Not taking this thing off topic. This thread has been a clearo thread from day one. And by the good graces of the mods a beginners' discussion on rebuilding has been tolerated for the sake of new vapers. We should consider them with our contributions. Alternatives for every kind of experimentation abound on ECF. And I'm a fan so long as the convo remains unbiased as to facts.

I'd be glad to help you refine a straightforward coil that works. So I'll try and build the above 26 gauge in the next day or so. I'd recommend the pin vise to start and the above common 7/64". Easiest way to train your body to find closest contact, for most of us. A gizmo certainly for reliable winds on thicker wire. Not all of us can apply that much strain with bare hands. If you're unclear on anything I've said above please let me know. Post here or PM me as you need.

Good luck T.

:)
 
Last edited:

Darryl Licht

Ultra Member
Verified Member
Jan 19, 2015
1,263
996
So Cal
...Gonna throw up three examples for you to look at of comparable wire mass (the measure of capacity to do work). I'll be talkin' more about this as needed. You go ahead, take a look and decide what's more likely to give you good overall performance. Consider the above analogy...


26AWG 7/7, 2.778mm i.d., LL=9, WS=0, t.m.c. = .99Ω (standard t.m.c.)

32AWG TP 5/5, 2.778mm i.d., TP=.606 (1.5Ø) LL=9, WS=0.202 t.m.c. = 1.67 Ω (twisted pair)

26AWG 6/6, 2.778mm i.d., LL=9, t.m.c. = 1.5625 Ω (dual coil, equiv. to the twisted)


You'll notice that to do the same work you've got to up the resistance considerably. Not even accounting for the inefficiencies of incomplete oxidation that multi wire builds all share (causes excess heat in operation), you gotta wonder just how much pan is off the burner in the last two T. You see the ONLY part of the coil that matters…the part that does the work., the surface area everybody keeps talkin' about isn't the big pan per se but the part that's wet by the juice, DIRECTLY. The more you put exactly there, the more business get's done. That's what we're talkin' about. And that is the essential principle of the tensioned microcoil. That it concentrates energy efficiently where we need the work. Not more than needed, but just enough. Exactly...

Mac... help me here. I see 3 identical densities, but varying mass in your examples.
 

MacTechVpr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2013
5,723
14,403
Hollywood (Beach), FL
Mac... help me here. I see 3 identical densities, but varying mass in your examples.

The density for Kanthal is constant. The closest you can come to the ~80mg of the straight 26 AWG res is 1.67Ω for the 32 TP on the high side (1.3825Ω, 4-turns). on the low. The diff in mass are the real world choices. As I've noted, we need to adjust the Target resistance field to match the wrap count profile we're looking to wind. Think that's what you mean. Hope this clarifies. Had to make a choice between the two. But you are right the lower wind is closer to the 1Ω target, and here it is, in fact it's lower...

32AWG TP 4/4, 2.778mm i.d., TP=.606 (1.5Ø) LL=9, WS=0.202 t.m.c. = 1.67 Ω (twisted pair)

And yet even hotter than the straight wire at a lower mass. And why is that significant? Because of the ratio of thermal energy vented to air vs. to wetted surface.

Too much of the discussion on this community is focused on producing more heat…as if this somehow produced more vapor or flavor. Not necessarily and I think the numbers show that. Effective transition phase (vaporization) does. Heat is only one factor.

To put it in a phrase…the wicking surface contact area defines the potential vaporization zone. That's what we need to optimize to.

New vapers are my chief concern. That they're encouraged to try strain as a method by those of us adept to do so. Who understand how and why this works. This is not a hobby or a technical exercise. Practically all of us got into this to get over. The industry would have us believe right now this is some kind of cloud comp contest. Not so…for most of us. This activity often resembles what most of us do by instinct — cooking, as the physics have been honed into us since we were kids. Most of what I talk about is pure kitchen science. We can certainly put a number on things but what's important is that newcomers arrive at a method standard instead of vape as expedition. They may conclude cooking without a recipe is ok but lacking the tools of the trade miss out on the reliability, repeatability and yes, safety of other alternatives they might have found more ultimately satisfying to them. Had they the simple means to assess them.

We're always better off evaluating the pan D. That means not just res, heat output or capacity but how much we can effectively deliver to the wick in terms of thermal energy. I'm no material's engineer but I believe my interpretation is consistent with the facts. If not, hey I'm a vaper too and not above considering anyone's reasonable argument. I want a great vape. We all should. And that's why I try my best to survey the community here and elsewhere. Assess, build and REPORT as best as I can all I can.

Choosing to faithfully apply this approach has led me to enjoy things I might have (stubbornly) never considered. Like the microcoil itself, variable high power or what it is so many get out of high powered low–Ω mech devices.

Good luck all.

:)
 
Last edited:

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
Last edited:

Darryl Licht

Ultra Member
Verified Member
Jan 19, 2015
1,263
996
So Cal
Pffft....This is why I don't use Steamengine for twisted pair....res value is way off. I wind spaced 6 wrap 2.77mm coils regularly, they're not 1.67 ohms....they're 1.15 ohms...every time. 7 wraps comes in at 1.4...every time.

And before you tell me I'm loaded, wind one on a 6-32 screw and see...

I think something is wrong with that link... says a 5/5 wrap but leads to a 4/4 spec page on SE showing 1.38Ω.

Confused by underlined...
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
I think something is wrong with that link... says a 5/5 wrap but leads to a 4/4 spec page on SE showing 1.38Ω.

Confused by underlined...

True, leads you to a 4 wrap 1.38ohm....which isn't true either...I'll alpologize if I'm wrong. Don't think I am though...I've wound too many twisted 32 coils.
 
Last edited:

MacTechVpr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2013
5,723
14,403
Hollywood (Beach), FL
Pffft....This is why I don't use Steamengine for twisted pair....res value is way off. I wind spaced 6 wrap 2.77mm coils regularly, they're not 1.67 ohms....they're 1.15 ohms...every time. 7 wraps comes in at 1.4...every time.

And before you tell me I'm loaded, wind one on a 6-32 screw and see...

I'm aware of that cig. The calculated twisted result for the twisted parallels computes to somewhere around .8xΩ. Metered actuals are .525Ω≥. More realistic results are computed by selecting dual coil along with twisted rather than round and adjusting resistance to wind profile. However, I'm not sure that result is accurate as we can't see the background algorithm.

I think my above 3 way example would have been served by a 28AWG/32AWG set as more comparable in mass. I'll have to take a look at this. I'm in no mood or shape tonight to do math.

I'm sure you capture the gist of my reservations on multi wire including parallels. There must be a return on investment in mass. That being increased working surface area. Even if my example was not great nor my matching of mass elegant.

We both understand in any case that given these three available wirings (for Taylor) that to increase mass for 32 would be pointless…as they wouldn't fit a 3.2.mm post/screw thread without serious risk of distortion. I don't think they do at all as stated.

Thanks for the heads up.

G'luck.

:)
 

MacTechVpr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2013
5,723
14,403
Hollywood (Beach), FL
Strange re: S.E.: I've found it to be pretty accurate with my twisted sisters.

Point is I've been dying to try some side by side comparisons of these winds, even as S-E's results are a bit wonky. It's a starting point. But they are way off on the twisted/round selection.

Cig is right on about the computational anomaly on twisted pair. I'll have to post my original example. I photographed the result on two separate meters, .531Ω. It's a PIA to use dual coil and compute the impact of the twist. I'm not enamored of the math.

My primary concern is over the assumption we can add wire mass with multiples generously increasing contact surface without too much a hit in downward res. Fat wire plus greater contact without the heat up downside. True. But it doesn't necessarily yield more performance if it nets a reduction of ratio for useful surface contact to overall surface area for the element.

Just to underscore the point, acknowledging cig's 1.15 observation (which I agree most likely accurate) on his TP32's, we net a reduction of surface value from S-E's calculation…

32AWG TP 4/3 2.778mm i.d., TP=.606 (1.5Ø) LL=9, WS=0.202 t.m.c. = 1.15Ω

But we can't trust the computed data using the actual. Adjusting the result to match resistance in this example doesn't help. The wind count changes obviously. The res line length reduced to even lower than a dual coil even as the computation internally seems to ignore the twist and doesn't break out the strands. There may be something in the entry sequencing. Fellas, I'll do volume and surface area but for cripes sake don't ask me to do line lengths for twisted. Ok? Got that straight. Or where to insert that mess in the res calc. My poor head can't handle all that noise.

Maybe it's time to team up and give Jon D a poke to help us out. If we're going to be recommending sisters to peeps, they ought to have means.

I corrected the labels on the three examples I gave taylor. I tried in a few hours to nail this down between phone calls and this is the closest comparison I could come up with given taylor's wire availability.

Unless anyone's noted otherwise the wire length resistance calc's seem to be in order, if not the twisted length results themselves. So the thermal values I based my position on for straight and dual coil appear accurate for consideration.

Thanks for heads up D.

Good luck.

:)
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread