I just upped the voltage on my vamo some, and BAM working a lot better now.
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I just upped the voltage on my vamo some, and BAM working a lot better now.
Just a great breakdown Kaf. Glad you got one of these to try and report.
I love the Aeroflow adapter. Had to blog it! Kanger Protank Aero Airflow Base
It is a huge enhancement to what's already a pretty good device for the money. But it's not the jewel that fixes our romance with the Protank. The physics haven't changed. The same conditions and requirements that cause and address over-saturation still remain. Like high end shorts not within the visual spectrum or over-draining the battery. The PT doesn't cease to be able to flood because we screwed on an airflow adapter. The need is still there to maintain the essential tightness of the build so that it serves the purpose that was intended…to optimize the airflow characteristics of the atomizer. Then we get a great vape!
It does provide the means to do something particularly helpful…to graduate an augmented airflow within the range of temperatures and pressures that is normal operation for the Protank. To help more consistently maintain an awesome vapor and flavor output rivaling much more expensive atomizers (with the right tight build). Not to negate the preceding or the all too real physical limitations of the device we struggle with.
Too much confidence in the adapter and we may find the well full of juice, resistance variation from 510 dampening and the grommet still obstructing airflow in the socket to our consternation…leaving us sucking on it like a Wendy's milkshake.
But I gotta say, I'm lovin' it.
Thanks all and good luck.
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You might also consider going to 1/16 inch bit. It will drop your resistance some and give more vapor at a bit lower voltage, especially if you have any non VV devices you use it on.
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Congrats Lewtz. Big step and no doubt you saw a big improvement in the performance. Lot of great info on this thread and Metalhed's thread mentioned here on tight location and install that can only max that out.
Good luck.
There's no way to accurately locate a proper coil on a mandrel making it impossible to build a proper electrical installation on the head. I ask the question I asked super_x_drifter, what electronics would you spend a dime for today apart from this industry that contained coils like those in the Kangers or Aspires (now hidden from us)? And to add insult to injury be charged almost 20$/5? At % failure rates of perhaps as high as 40% per reports I've had relayed to me by vendors?
Yeah, ripped panned 'em. And yes we can he said (and should) rebuild these (if you want to see what the Aspire is capable of). Who would want to? Apart from an exercise? Show me that newb, I would ask Rip at 20$ a repack.
After going through this trial by fire, I've learned to do this. Understand it, and yes, maybe even endorse a Protank for its engineering. But not for much more than a training tool. A path to enjoying the broader field of vaping opportunities. It can arguably be said that if you've learned to build on a Protank you can build anything. And having gotten there I enjoy the peculiarities of clearomizers which occasionally can be reminiscent of an analog. But it's not much more than a means to en end. Or a hobby, for some maybe, if there weren't so much else available to us that is so much more rewarding and economical. Even, yes, originals by comparison!
It almost begs the question, why are they selling this .....? Why are we buying it!???
I often wonder if we wouldn't have been better off following the path of the custom atomizer in terms of improving our own electronics and not been overwhelmed by this clearomizer marketing phenomenon (gimmick). Not to mention our dependence on external production and near obsession with it.
Perhaps there is something to the Provari/fixed tank stalwarts dedication. At least they're not rebuilding their carto's every other day.
Something to be said for that.
Anyway keep us posted Kaf on its performance and if you get to that DC build, would love to know.
Good luck.
and p.s. Kaf, if you do go the Aspire dark side would you please send me all those old Kanger heads. I've got a zillion of those PT's myself doing test duty like faithful old soldiers in disorderly files. And don't forget the silicone grommets.
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I've been slacking lately, haven't been around my own thread much..
When it comes to leaking/gurgling/flooding, as Mac and some of you have mentioned, there are a few factors to consider.. One thing I noticed with my builds, is that my Protank2 seems to have a lot more problems with gurgling and flooding than my Protank 1 did. This is definitely an airflow issue, at least for me.
...... It's funny, when I first got my PT1, I hated the airy draw, and loved how the PT2 was a bit tighter to draw on when it was released. But than when I started rebuilding my coils and building micros, I began to love my airier version1 Protank, much more!
Ever since my PT1 shattered a few weeks ago and I've been back on my PT2, I've been missing and notice the difference. Most of my builds will let a tiny drop of juice onto my battery after a few hours anyways, but usually nothing to worry about. But my Protank2 defintiely has more issues with gurgling/flooding and leaking than my PT1 did - I reallllyy have to get the cotton density perfect with my PT2, and a quality coil helps also, or it will most likely leak, gurgle, and flood.
I still like my 1/16" (10 wraps of 30g) builds the best on my Protanks. Haven't tried the PT3 or Aerotank/Unitank myself yet... And I realllllllyyyyy need to get that Airflow-Controller Base (and another PT1) ASAP, it will make my life a lot easier!!
When it comes to leaking/gurgling/flooding, as Mac and some of you have mentioned, there are a few factors to consider.. One thing I noticed with my builds, is that my Protank2 seems to have a lot more problems with gurgling and flooding than my Protank 1 did. This is definitely an airflow issue, at least for me.
...... It's funny, when I first got my PT1, I hated the airy draw, and loved how the PT2 was a bit tighter to draw on when it was released. But than when I started rebuilding my coils and building micros, I began to love my airier version1 Protank, much more!
Ever since my PT1 shattered a few weeks ago and I've been back on my PT2, I've been missing and notice the difference. Most of my builds will let a tiny drop of juice onto my battery after a few hours anyways, but usually nothing to worry about. But my Protank2 defintiely has more issues with gurgling/flooding and leaking than my PT1 did - I reallllyy have to get the cotton density perfect with my PT2, and a quality coil helps also, or it will most likely leak, gurgle, and flood.
I still like my 1/16" (10 wraps of 30g) builds the best on my Protanks. Haven't tried the PT3 or Aerotank/Unitank myself yet... And I realllllllyyyyy need to get that Airflow-Controller Base (and another PT1) ASAP, it will make my life a lot easier!!
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...When it comes to leaking/gurgling/flooding, as Mac and some of you have mentioned, there are a few factors to consider...I reallllyy have to get the cotton density perfect with my PT2, and a quality coil helps also, or it will most likely leak, gurgle, and flood...And I realllllllyyyyy need to get that Airflow-Controller Base (and another PT1) ASAP, it will make my life a lot easier!!
Man, you said a mouthful. LOL But like I told Taf the Aero base will optimize the vape but can't make it any better than the design or the build. Cotton is the easiest for a newcomer to use and the hardest to master, in a Protank. It is what it is. And at least it's not an Aspire.
My
, no $ post tonite. Too tired. Good luck.
It's certainly not a 100% fix, but removing the ventilation from the 510 connection is huge. The new wick channels are not ideal for a single horizontal coil, but I believe they will be perfect for a vertical coil. I might be building one of those tonight to test that theory, in point of fact. We'll see.
It is also worth noting that the general fit and finish on the Aero is nicer than that on the Nautilus. I still believe the airflow control mechanism is superior on the Nautilus, though. Nevertheless, it's a small advantage and doesn't make up for its other shortcomings and the Aero suits my needs for the time being. I don't think you'll see me converting over to aspire anytime soon.
It is also worth noting that the general fit and finish on the Aero is nicer than that on the Nautilus. I still believe the airflow control mechanism is superior on the Nautilus, though. Nevertheless, it's a small advantage and doesn't make up for its other shortcomings and the Aero suits my needs for the time being. I don't think you'll see me converting over to aspire anytime soon.
Seeing your response and after watching pbusardo's eval, I can see why quite a few people might go for the Aero. It's a product I omitted from my testing because I didn't think it would have a very wide adoption rate, like the Unitank. But there's something to be said about trying to wring the best out of the DC config. Which is another way of saying…how many more ways can I figure out how to overload this thing until I'm suckin' hot air?
Good luck.
Far as I can tell, this is where they have taken their protank line, I doubt we'll be seeing a Protank 4 unless they do away with the Aero branding and just integrate the airflow control into the Protank lineup. For all intents and purposes, the Aero is just a Protank 3 with an airflow controller built in. It is well worth investigating the system as a whole rather than simply using a Protank 1 or 2 with the Aero base. The new heads are superior, in my opinion.
Incidentally I did make a vertical coil last night. While it is performing fine, it is harder to set them properly (can't tighten them down on the mandrel like you can on a horizontal coil) and you really have to stuff them with cotton or you get horrendous flooding, but not too much or it doesn't absorb fast enough to wick efficiently. Very finicky. My next experiment will be a horizontal dual coil set, which I suspect will perform much better as it is actually what the platform was designed to accommodate.
Incidentally I did make a vertical coil last night. While it is performing fine, it is harder to set them properly (can't tighten them down on the mandrel like you can on a horizontal coil) and you really have to stuff them with cotton or you get horrendous flooding, but not too much or it doesn't absorb fast enough to wick efficiently. Very finicky. My next experiment will be a horizontal dual coil set, which I suspect will perform much better as it is actually what the platform was designed to accommodate.
I agree, and yes the new heads were an improvement but, as has been noted and I've observed too, Kanger hasn't escaped deprication of the quality control on their heads. Market conditions? By some accounts as often poor as Aspire's. I'm sure glad I had it in me to rebuild. I'm fascinated as you with the poss variations including verticals for the Kangers. And each one has an optimal I'd like to find. I've produced quite a few on other mods of several varieties. And I've managed to work out some novel wicking approaches as well finding the optimal airflows for some devices like one of my simple fav's, the Forge, and stuff more sophisticated...
I'm intrigued by the idea of both twisted and flat wire on the PT. But my own testing of consumer wicking products requires more newbie attainable coils and continues. If anything accelerating. So those far more entertaining experiments await your successful interest. Watch the top shorts and termination on all three. Sending you a PM.
Pictures Taf, pictures. This is a visual medium.
Good luck.
I'm intrigued by the idea of both twisted and flat wire on the PT. But my own testing of consumer wicking products requires more newbie attainable coils and continues. If anything accelerating. So those far more entertaining experiments await your successful interest. Watch the top shorts and termination on all three. Sending you a PM.
Pictures Taf, pictures. This is a visual medium.
Good luck.
Haha, I always forget to take pictures. I'll snap some next time I tear it apart. I have no idea about the consistency of the stock coils because I always tear out what I call the "peasant" coils and replace them without ever putting liquid to them. I did briefly use the stock dual coils just for a point of reference, and they were much better than stock KPT single coils, but I barely used that coil for half a day before tearing it apart. I don't even care about the quality of the stock coils because I love to rebuild them.
I don't know why it's so dark in the background Lol
Twisted 32g kanthal 6 wraps came to 1.5 ohms. Pretty Good vape and has some good flavor. Waay better than stock of course, Same flavor as my other Regular 32 gauge coil around 2.1 ohms, forget how many wraps for that
Twisted 32g kanthal 6 wraps came to 1.5 ohms. Pretty Good vape and has some good flavor. Waay better than stock of course, Same flavor as my other Regular 32 gauge coil around 2.1 ohms, forget how many wraps for that
Great thread! thanks to all that contributed I use 9/10 wraps of 28 gauge kanthol on a small screw driver just a tiny bit bigger than a needle on a juice bottle fits perfect in the slot it meters at 1.6 I added a flavour wick and flooded it out removed it and just used the cotton in the coil works perfect like that on a pro tank 1 I am running it on a Zmax at 4.5 volts I will post some pics on my next build
I use 9/10 wraps of 28 gauge kanthol on a small screw driver just a tiny bit bigger than a needle on a juice bottle fits perfect in the slot it meters at 1.6 I added a flavour wick and flooded it out removed it and just used the cotton in the coil works perfect like that on a pro tank 1 I am running it on a Zmax at 4.5 volts I will post some pics on my next build
Heck Reign is that one twist awful wrap??? Looks like that pic few years back of the FL gator eatin' the python LOL (or was it the other way 'round?). Haha. Well, what all you running thru that thing? Must be my missin' tube sock and what's left of my old mop!
It is TIIIIT in there. You're gonna have to lend us the jackhammer you pried that in with!
Thanks for the demo!
Just built a 30g, 10 wrap microcoil on my 1/16in bit, hand-winded it with tension. This time I snipped one of the legs before I inserted the metal pin.. Coming in at 1.9ohms. It didn't look great after I hand-wound it on the bit, but looked a lot better after compressing and dry-firing. This one actually looks like it's firing a lot better than my past few builds (same specs), and I think I wicked it perfectly with cotton.
... Only the vape will tell though!! About to try it out now, it's been sitting and soaking for about 30 minutes. I took a couple pics of this build that I will post later - 1 picture with it primed with juice and ready to go, and another pic right after I wrapped it on the drill bit.
Hopefully this will be a good one, my builds have been kinda lame lately. Time to buy some spools!
... Only the vape will tell though!! About to try it out now, it's been sitting and soaking for about 30 minutes. I took a couple pics of this build that I will post later - 1 picture with it primed with juice and ready to go, and another pic right after I wrapped it on the drill bit.
Hopefully this will be a good one, my builds have been kinda lame lately. Time to buy some spools!
**Bouncing to 2.0ohms on my eVic now..
Also, something I wanted to add about wicking these coils with cotton, that I noticed:
.. it seems that on my coils that I use the correct amount/density of cotton for, when I first fill up my tank after priming the wick, the tank will leak for a few minutes. Nothing bad, just a couple drops of juice will leak out for the first 2 minutes after filling, but after a couple primer puffs it stops. And than, vape heaven! That great popping & crackling sounds tells me that I did it right
This one's vaping good at 5watts, about to crank it up
Also, something I wanted to add about wicking these coils with cotton, that I noticed:
.. it seems that on my coils that I use the correct amount/density of cotton for, when I first fill up my tank after priming the wick, the tank will leak for a few minutes. Nothing bad, just a couple drops of juice will leak out for the first 2 minutes after filling, but after a couple primer puffs it stops. And than, vape heaven! That great popping & crackling sounds tells me that I did it right
This one's vaping good at 5watts, about to crank it up
Watch for hanger's if your fluctuating the devils! If you're vaping at 5w damn that's a very mild vape dude for a superdog like a tight micro and cotton. Most of my testing was done in a midrange (high side of the blue zone) or 6-6.5w and testing high/low. But an honest center I've come to believe is 4v/2Ω/8W as what modern PV's, batteries and a tight build require. Otherwise, in a PT you tend to oversaturate and flood without the power. Now with improved airflow it's almost essential.
Hope it's vapin' good.
Good luck.
Thanks Mac, pretty sure I don't have any hangers but I'd need a magnifying glass to really make sure.. With a new coil (self-built or stock), I've had the habit of starting it off low when I first vape it.. I'll start at 5 watts, to break it in a bit, than crank it up a bit. I usually vape right around 6.5watts
Think I've published this or something similar
Carson MagniLamp 2x Lighted Detachable 2-in-1 Magnifier with 3.5x Spot Lens GN-55
I have several varieties. And when you run into a recurring problem you just can't seem to find you are likely going to need magnification to see it. The little variations in symmetry, the loss of adhesion between coils, occasionally mounted coils and high or low ones often are for all intents invisible.
Sooner or later frustration will yield to reality and we get one. No matter how good our vision is. That's why hobbyists use them. What are we the eagle-eyed exception or something???
Don't think so.
Anyways, you can get these at office despot, eBay or like that. What I like about this lens is it has a built in loupe. That lets you peer in detail down the assembly to the grommet very clearly (in real time while you fire). You might be surprised what you see.
I rely on an articulated high-power daylight balanced real 7" diopter lens. To which I add an additional 3" hand held precision lens as needed. So I can pretty well tell when I've nailed it, and when I missed.
Hangers are there and you can't see them. The light plays tricks on your vision at times and you miss them. That becomes obvious when you start using magnification as one of the most common problems with our builds (and the scourge of the burny grommet).
Ultimately, and regardless of method, winding is incredibly easier when you can see the damned thing!
Try it, you'll like it.
Good luck.
Carson MagniLamp 2x Lighted Detachable 2-in-1 Magnifier with 3.5x Spot Lens GN-55
I have several varieties. And when you run into a recurring problem you just can't seem to find you are likely going to need magnification to see it. The little variations in symmetry, the loss of adhesion between coils, occasionally mounted coils and high or low ones often are for all intents invisible.
Sooner or later frustration will yield to reality and we get one. No matter how good our vision is. That's why hobbyists use them. What are we the eagle-eyed exception or something???
Don't think so.
Anyways, you can get these at office despot, eBay or like that. What I like about this lens is it has a built in loupe. That lets you peer in detail down the assembly to the grommet very clearly (in real time while you fire). You might be surprised what you see.
I rely on an articulated high-power daylight balanced real 7" diopter lens. To which I add an additional 3" hand held precision lens as needed. So I can pretty well tell when I've nailed it, and when I missed.
Hangers are there and you can't see them. The light plays tricks on your vision at times and you miss them. That becomes obvious when you start using magnification as one of the most common problems with our builds (and the scourge of the burny grommet).
Ultimately, and regardless of method, winding is incredibly easier when you can see the damned thing!
Try it, you'll like it.
Good luck.
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