I concur. Been pushing cotton to everyone with a KPT. It's the best for it IMO.
Protank To Airy Draw Complaints? Leaking Complaints?
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I concur. Been pushing cotton to everyone with a KPT. It's the best for it IMO.
It amazes me how something works so good for one person and the next one doesn't like it at all. It is that way with every device out there. I've been vaping 3 1/2 years and have seen it time after time. I personally like the Protank right out of the box better than anything else I've tried. I like the easy draw and I've never had any leaking issues or dry vapes. The only way you can find out if it will work for you is to try it yourself.
I guess I have to step over to the dissatisfied line. I bought two PT (authentic Kangers) and both of them vaped very well albeit too airy. I think I could work with that. However, both of them leak on my batts right out of the box after the juice got below a half tank. I have been vapiing for almost a year now (july 12th) so I know not to tighten things too tight. I am careful about not getting anything in the air tube etc. I changed the heads, filled them up, and the same. They vape great for a while then start gurgling and leaking. So... the OP had good advice to prevent them from leaking but what do you do after they are leaking. Buy new bottoms? They have never leaked through the mouth piece, only on my batts. I finally got frustrated and put them down. Haven't used them for 3 weeks now. I am not really a DYI type but would be willing to try something if anyone has some suggestions.
Sounds like most of the issues for people are happening right out of the box. I just got a ProTank 2 days ago, been through 2 refills (from topped off to totally empty) and have had zero issues! I'm loving mine. I'm a big bottom coil fan and have been using T3's exclusively up until now. The T3's have a lot of issues, but I just fiddle with them because I like them so much when they are working. So far no fiddling at all with the ProTank! I haven't even had the drop of juice out of the mouth piece when refilling like on T3's. hoping my luck holds out!
Yes, we need the rubber insulator. That's the only part that's wearing out after a few recoils/wicks.
First suggestion would be to just double check that the head is in all the way and not cross threaded. If it is, maybe try dropping in another piece of wick over the coil...
Ok I recant my rave for the protank. It was doing good then all the sudden it started flooding. Can't stop it. I think it got too hot and messed up the seals. Now the tank can't hold pressure. I'm not very happy. The bottom seal is a joke. The original t3 is actually better then this. At least when the top seal caused mine to leak like this when brad new, at least I could fix it by flaring the metal tube so it was tighter on the seal. It worked perfect then . With this it looks like the tube is just pressed into to the mouth piece or glued to seal the tank at the top. I now suspect that could be the pressure loss point most likely. Or the little oring seal at the bottom, the OG t3 had a double seal down there. I think I got better performance with the t3. Maybe I just need more time to figure out how to fix this like I did with the t3
I think the top tank seal to the mouth piece Is the air seepage causing the pressure loss if we can tighten that seal I believe we an have pretty Leak free tanks. If the tank pressure is tight it won't leak! (Except for that 1/4 full mark when the pressure fluctuates.
Hey Cerver7, I am wondering about this I tried it and didn't think it was as good as silica. You can't crank up the voltage without burning th cotton it seems. Is it because the wick is too thick. I thought it was pretty good but slightly tight when saturated.
I think the top tank seal to the mouth piece Is the air seepage causing the pressure loss if we can tighten that seal I believe we an have pretty Leak free tanks. If the tank pressure is tight it won't leak! (Except for that 1/4 full mark when the pressure fluctuates.
Hey Cerver7, I am wondering about this I tried it and didn't think it was as good as silica. You can't crank up the voltage without burning th cotton it seems. Is it because the wick is too thick. I thought it was pretty good but slightly tight when saturated.
I have mixed feelings about my protank now. When it's working its hands down my favorite. But lately it's prone to flooding. I put the flavor wicks back in and still having flooding and leaking. And we all hate getting juice in our mouth.
I was going to buy a few more but now I think I'll buy some replacement heads and hope that it works or rebuild the wicks/coils.
I was going to buy a few more but now I think I'll buy some replacement heads and hope that it works or rebuild the wicks/coils.
Ok, my reservations about the protank have now been laid to rest.
So, I am disappointed that I can't buy replacement Protank heads that perform well, but if you are up to the task, this is fixable.
I just rebuilt 2 old heads using hemp twine for wick and 30awg kanthal with the 4x40 machine screw method and man, what a difference.
I got 1.5ohm coils with 5 wraps, vaping 80/20 PG/VG on 3.5 volts AND getting WARM vapor to top it all off, full of flavor, burning taste completely gone.
THIS is the way vaping is supposed to be.
What I did:
- Took 1mm hemp twine, boiled it to remove any possible treatments that may have been applied, even though this is supposed to be 100% natural.
- Dried out the boiled twine and separated the twist out into individual small threads
- clip of length of kanthal 30awg, heated it up with stove burner and let it cool 4 or 5 times to soften it and take a little of the "spring" out of it
- Used a 1" 4x40 machine screw, made 5 wraps with .30awg kanthal wire, removed screw
- Made a loose wick out of the shredded hemp strings into an approx 2.5mm wick, I did NOT roll this up tight, left it really loose. Threaded it into the coil and pulled through until it got just slightly tight... or so the coil was making good contact with the wick all the way around without pulling it so tight that it started to compress the wick
- Re-assembled the head as shown in multiple youtube videos making sure to be cautious and prevent any shorting
- clip off excess wick and wire
- prime wick with some juice, check resistance and for shorts on my old ZMax
- Grin from ear to ear when I start vaping my Pina Calada 80/20
* Machine Screw Method* ==> Machine screw coil wrap for Vivi Nova / Kanger T3 - YouTube (T3 how-to, but shows how to use the screw to make perfect coils)
Kind of mixed feelings because I'm glad this is fixable and I am MORE than happy with the performance now, but I'm also quite disappointed that I cant just buy working 1.5ohm coils so I don't have to hassle with rebuilding.
And by the way, if you are new: Don't fall for the "experts only" stuff about rebuilding your own... mechanically, it is quite easy. The only thing you need to MAKE SURE OF, is that you are using a device that has electronic short-circuit protection (Provari, Sigelei ZMax, etc). If you are using a mechanical mod, I would be VERY careful or you will end up with a serious meltdown on your hands. Check your assembled coils with a VO meter before you fire them on your device!
So, I am disappointed that I can't buy replacement Protank heads that perform well, but if you are up to the task, this is fixable.
I just rebuilt 2 old heads using hemp twine for wick and 30awg kanthal with the 4x40 machine screw method and man, what a difference.
I got 1.5ohm coils with 5 wraps, vaping 80/20 PG/VG on 3.5 volts AND getting WARM vapor to top it all off, full of flavor, burning taste completely gone.
THIS is the way vaping is supposed to be.
What I did:
- Took 1mm hemp twine, boiled it to remove any possible treatments that may have been applied, even though this is supposed to be 100% natural.
- Dried out the boiled twine and separated the twist out into individual small threads
- clip of length of kanthal 30awg, heated it up with stove burner and let it cool 4 or 5 times to soften it and take a little of the "spring" out of it
- Used a 1" 4x40 machine screw, made 5 wraps with .30awg kanthal wire, removed screw
- Made a loose wick out of the shredded hemp strings into an approx 2.5mm wick, I did NOT roll this up tight, left it really loose. Threaded it into the coil and pulled through until it got just slightly tight... or so the coil was making good contact with the wick all the way around without pulling it so tight that it started to compress the wick
- Re-assembled the head as shown in multiple youtube videos making sure to be cautious and prevent any shorting
- clip off excess wick and wire
- prime wick with some juice, check resistance and for shorts on my old ZMax
- Grin from ear to ear when I start vaping my Pina Calada 80/20
* Machine Screw Method* ==> Machine screw coil wrap for Vivi Nova / Kanger T3 - YouTube (T3 how-to, but shows how to use the screw to make perfect coils)
Kind of mixed feelings because I'm glad this is fixable and I am MORE than happy with the performance now, but I'm also quite disappointed that I cant just buy working 1.5ohm coils so I don't have to hassle with rebuilding.
And by the way, if you are new: Don't fall for the "experts only" stuff about rebuilding your own... mechanically, it is quite easy. The only thing you need to MAKE SURE OF, is that you are using a device that has electronic short-circuit protection (Provari, Sigelei ZMax, etc). If you are using a mechanical mod, I would be VERY careful or you will end up with a serious meltdown on your hands. Check your assembled coils with a VO meter before you fire them on your device!
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Yeah. Search it here. Fin the thread, read it all and try it. I promise you, you will be happy with the results.
From my understanding, micro coils are simply thin wire with a lot of wraps very close together...? Sub ohm results but more stable...
Pretty much. Same setup as the infamous hh357 atty basically. Works ridiculous.
Wow thanks for the tip so obvious never would have tried it. Definitely improves it.
I do not mind the light draw,
But how do you get more flavor out of the Pro tank ?
I was so excited to get mine and ordered a second one before i even got the first,
Now I was so disappointed in the muted taste that I have not even opened the box on the second one
I could not taste my juice either! My t3 has great flavor on my builds. Using all vg with 10% water plus 10% flavor. I was getting dry hits/ metallic coil burn, and flooding. Was going back and forth notched cup seal, removed wicks, flooded/ gurgles more. Again with dry hit. Noticed it was dry unscrewed the base till a good amount of bubbles came up and bam I tasted my juice. Well I run my t3 loose. This is how I run my protank and would you believe it, it doesn't flood or gurgle! Try it.
I even have the cup completely off and unscrewed 2 turns!(1-3 depending) If it is upright most the day it runs perfectly! It will gurgle/ flood I left on its side too long. So try this! Unscrew till you see some bubbles if not enough flavor unscrew more for more bubbles. You'll find a sweet spot. I added Teflon to the base threads to make it tighter. You now have juice control on the protank tighten or loosen as needed. you may want to tighten when Laying on side for extened time.
My draw is tighter with a 4 mm coil. I use a large finishing nail or a mini screw driver that's just right. I use silica 4 mm in coil.
Serious no cup seal unscrewed 1-2 turns depending. I can taste my juice and it doesn't flood. Runs better than it ever did before. Oh the tip is a rubber 801 whistle drip tip from an old echo cut the whistle tip off fits perfect. Only did that for comfort so it doesn't hit my teeth.
I even have the cup completely off and unscrewed 2 turns!(1-3 depending) If it is upright most the day it runs perfectly! It will gurgle/ flood I left on its side too long. So try this! Unscrew till you see some bubbles if not enough flavor unscrew more for more bubbles. You'll find a sweet spot. I added Teflon to the base threads to make it tighter. You now have juice control on the protank tighten or loosen as needed. you may want to tighten when Laying on side for extened time.
My draw is tighter with a 4 mm coil. I use a large finishing nail or a mini screw driver that's just right. I use silica 4 mm in coil.
Serious no cup seal unscrewed 1-2 turns depending. I can taste my juice and it doesn't flood. Runs better than it ever did before. Oh the tip is a rubber 801 whistle drip tip from an old echo cut the whistle tip off fits perfect. Only did that for comfort so it doesn't hit my teeth.
yea the protank is not for me. the draw is way to airy and the flavor has a metal taste to it (i washed it out before my first use). the flavor that i do get is very mute. tried 3 different heads with the same flavor and they all taste bad to me. could i have gotten a defect or is it just me? i shelved it after the first day. highly disappointed with my protank. going back to good ol cartos for me.
See my post above... It doesn't feed enough juice for good flavor. It's very touchy between dry and flooding if your working 1 mm wick at a time. Unscrewing the base is the best way I have found to hit that sweet spot and not flood. I believe the air tube isn't even touching the coil air tube. This stabilizes the tank pressure better.you will see the air bubbles rising indicating proper wicking. This is a must try if your not getting good flavor. It works great.
if your not seeing air bubbles rising every 1-4 vapes you will not have optimum flavor or wicking!
if your not seeing air bubbles rising every 1-4 vapes you will not have optimum flavor or wicking!
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If you simply want plug-n-play, then you are right. They are very nice if you have the time and patience to tweek them and build your own coils. You can solve not only the flavor problems, but you can also adjust the draw by using more packing around the wick/coil channel.
Having said that, my favorite as far as super easy is the MT3 tank. They are small capacity, but that's a pretty minor thing for me. I actually prefer smaller devices and don't care if I have to refill it once or twice a day. Unfortunately for the MT3, it's not really very small and holds a small amount of liquid on top of it. The MT3 has a perfect draw (for me anyway), is bottom coil and you actually get a somewhat warm vapor out of it (not like a top coil, but still not bad). It's actually very warm if you draw slow like I do.
Problem with MT3 is the threading... Ego only and it has problems fitting on a lot of mods because they have the Ego threads recessed down inside the housing.. if they even have Ego threads at all (are you listening provape?).
I have a Sigelei ZMax mini that DOES work with them and it's an awesome alternative to the Provari for not much money at all.
I'm really wanting to get a batch of EVOD and try those, I'm hoping they are even better than the MT3, plus the coils are a LOT easier to rebuild if you are into that sort of thing.
I never understood why the Ego connector isn't standard on everything outside of pens. Its SO much more robust and can survive abuse much better... anyway, now I'm wandering.
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